They may work, just need someone to check against the pinout: www.plastibots.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Rear-Harness-Lights.jpg

Think they are all capable of handling addressable LEDs. Its whether you want WiFi or Bluetooth to use apps like Blyink to control it. Also suggest looking at MSGEQ7 that gives you better audio channels

😆 Love that radio.. Light and easy to read!

Thx, but it's not economical. Takes a lot of time to build and put it all together.

Yes,odd for sure. I ended up having to file all of them on both axles to get all links and shock ends to fit.

Hi. Links are in the description.

I tried SBA for the front. Didn’t work well. Got caught up on a tree trunk I was able to master the week before having these, so both are SOA now. Can you elaborate on the last point? Moving the steering link above the arm? I think it’s already like that? Also, I didn’t grind anything, was just mentioning how others pointed that out…. I am planning on turning the steering crosslink so the “arc“ faces down rather than out, as that will make more room between the servo link arm and the crosslink. Still have to try that, as not sure how effective it will be.

Been out on them 3 times now. So far, all good. Just make sure you put blue loctite on all screws! My first time out 4 knuckle screws all cane loose, and 2 nearly fell out.

I refined my endpoint tuning since posting this video, and now the 4WS turning radius is sweet! Also, switching both servos to top mount is a must. During my first field test, they were catching on rocks etc when mounted low.

Possibly from a Country outside US or Canada? Only ship to these two.

Check out the updated second link in the description for NeoLumn8. It doesn’t have a console controller so would not use this area.

@@vincentcharbonneau3874 Sorry, that’s not an option. Thanks for your interest.

Comments and notes are in the video. Amp ended up behind passenger seat. Sub in the trunk.

Oof, sub in the trunk. Losing the small storage space it had left ​@@PlastiBots

@@TheSergio1021 Right! That's why it's portable. It doesn't go in there very often..

That's pretty cool, and yes I did think about doing this. However, I think the effect is the same given slowing is mostly done when braking. That said, those of us who drive stick know we can slow a car using just the engine, but I also wanted to avoid the braking LEDs triggering every time the car decelerates during down shifting. Triggering during braking is key.

No. 5V max. Also, LED strips should be powered by a separate power supply as most micro controllers can only handle about 50mA max. You can get away powering a few pixels to test, but get a buck converter to do it right, and don’t forget to connect grounds.

I modelled and printed it.

Thx. Link is in the description.

Out of curiosity, why do you think that? This is focused on the temp of the bed power cable which is near room temperature. Yes, there’s a recall, but I don’t see any signs of failure there.

@@PlastiBots No there isn't a problem with your printer as of yet. Your video shows an A1 cable operating as intended. And getting a bit warm in the process. Now fast forward to a year from now when it has a few individual conductors that have broken and look at it again. You will see that it is hotter, and you will see that the heat will be focused in the area of where the bending is. Think of me as the ghost of disasters future... :) Thanks to your video, we can see the AC power cable on the left is running cooler, while the bed cable on the right is clearly hotter. So while the ampacity charts of the National Electric Code (NEC) allow for this, which is why they have 60C, 75C, & 90C columns (as well as other tables for other insulation types), it means that a #8 AWG copper conductor will run at up to 60C when it is conducting 40 amps. At 50 amps, around 75C. And at 55 amps 90C-ish. So ask yourself why it is that the power cable feeding your entire printer runs cooler than the bed cable? Yup, that's an issue. So the upshot of all of this is that there was either a choice to use a smaller diameter wire and accept the "I square R" (voltage) drop loss, or they didn't bother to check. Place your bets... Is this a big deal? Well, yes. Because since it is a cable that is going to wear out, it needs to be upsized a bit to compensate for broken conductors that are no longer doing their job without raising the temperature of the wire to a point where the insulation fails. BTW, the cables that erupted in sparks indicate an insulation failure and not a conductor failure. One typically creates a short circuit (insulation failure), the other an open circuit (conductor failure). Insulation requirements are an entirely different subject, and while researching this issue I found out the Underwriter's Laboratories has ~7000 different types of insulation that they have approved. Who knew? Back when I used to do this for a living, we saw cable failure as a predictable thing and we knew when to replace the cables to avoid downtime (in General Motors factories). We never did, because, well it was GM. But that gave us plenty of opportunity to see the cause of the failure. Which was almost always (99% of the time) the individual conductors breaking and the conductor separating - while leaving the insulation intact. In fact, I'm sure that you have an extension or appliance cord that has done this to you. Or a USB charging cable. None of these (probably) have caught on fire, none of them had to be recalled, why is that?

Actually, Bambu do currently have a recall on the A1 printer for the heat bed cable.

@@PlastiBots Yup, I'm aware of it. I don't own a Bambu, but some friends do. The entire kerfuffle triggered my engineering side and I got curious as to how bad it could be. And for the record, my QIDI X-MAX3 is giving me fits at the moment, so there's that. :) And Bambu is doing the right thing, but this philosophy of "If it's good enough for China, then it's good enough anywhere" is going to bite them in the rear. They will have to accept that they will have to follow the laws of the countries that they plan on importing to at some point. I wonder how many of the A1 printers they have sold world-wide? Well, enough of this, it's time to fix the QIDI. :)

Last link in the description. ;-)

@@PlastiBots but there is only a very Long text

@@BesterRapperFLER I don't have a store, and there's a link in there to contact me. Reading may be long, but it's to provide info on what it is and how it works. I'm robust, what can I say :-)

Thx! The link is temporarily down and will be back up in 4 days, so check back then.

Code is now available.

@@PlastiBotsAppreciate it!

Can't find or see the code ?@@ryanbertsch

Yessir! Responded to your email. Thx.

How much ?

No line out converter.

The cables he tapped into and changed to RCA are in place of the LOC i believe, then those rca you plug strait into the new amp I'm guessing, if you did this with an LOC and tapped it same way I'm pretty sure you'll get the same results, you'll just need 2 channel rca to rca cables to go strait to the amp

Yup.. I see you found it and ordered. Thx!

Hey. Thx for the positive comments. Pretty sure I got them on Aliexpress. Standard barrel jack size, but forgot the dimensions. Their website may provide the info on sizing.

Details are in my blog linked in the description. Powered by drivers fuse panel with a 12>5V switching supply. Comms is via ESP-NOW

Per our discussion, you have no previous orders with this shop. You must have this mistaken with another shop.

Do you know of any other more power efficient mcus that have ble5/wifi/lora

​@@glitchdigger Do you want to have BLE5/WiFI/LoRa on the same board?

@@meililyli2188 mainly just ble5/uwb

Yeah. It’s always an adventure with some of this stuff. I’ve also recently gotten good mileage out of Arduino GFX. Especially after working with a gent named Matt P to get Sprites working. For the Lilygo T-RGB, it made for some cool graphics. Check out my other videos for info.

Ive done animated GIFs on it. Think there’s a library that also supports mjpeg.