@@tomhershman1328 as I understand it, your slip ring, clutch cone and synchro ring are what keep the gear engaged. I those are all brand new, you’re kinda limited on other things that affect the system. Your new parts could be defective, and if you didn’t get them from torque king, there’s a reasonable chance you got substandard stuff. Otherwise you’re looking at maybe your 5th gear bearing being worn, causing the gear to tilt off axis when unloading. Unfortunately they’re just not that complicated of a system, so the problem is there somewhere.

@uzifouryoutwosay awesome I really appreciate the response. To my knowledge the bearing, synchro, and clutch cone are all new. The gear cluster for sure is not, so I'm going to replace that. If you could get in touch with me directly I have pictures of the clutch cone and synchro and you could give me your thoughts. TIA

@@uzifouryoutwosay email sent. Thanks

@@tomhershman1328 nothing received yet, do you have instagram?

@@uzifouryoutwosay negative I do not. I do have Facebook though

@@jasonbrown7258 that is likely your problem.

@@VMac822 530,000. Not as many as I would have hoped for in several years, but that’s okay. You know, for million mile motors, they sure do get rebuilt a lot. In my opinion, engines where the spray pattern is straight down and not at an angle seem to last longer.

@ that’s exactly my theory. Also I think Cummins did improve the cooling system to equalize temps at the back cylinders. I’ve had my 98.5 since 2012, had 155k when I got it. There are some years I barely drove it, but the past 4yrs I’ve road tripped quite a bit, from the Pacific NW to the Great Lakes region and two trips to New Mexico. Love road tripping it.

@@justaguywhoplaysfalloutsom1104 so I’m having a ground fault issue after running it on the same rotary converter as my lathe, are you a maintenance guy?

No but i own a couple of old haas mills. If you are having an alarm that cant easily be solved the easiest way to resolve it is calling you local haas hfo for your region and talking to a maintenance guy. Haas is almost always willing to help you solve problems for free. And in my experience they help you troubleshoot problems before sending a technician out. They also have a ton of info on their youtube channel about maintaining and programming. The first time i had a technician come out they didn’t even charge me.

@@51sicboy it is, you have to re route it around the alternator so you don’t induce interference into your ground

@ Got it, but why go all the way across your radiator when you could just connect it to the other battery?

@@51sicboy it already connects to the battery, where else would you route the cable in the engine compartment.

@ To the other battery on the opposite or closer side.

@@51sicboy my brother in christ it already does that. The ends of the wire being moved away from the alternator are connected to both grounds on each battery.

@@MartinsMachines unless you are butt welding a chopped up receiver, you don’t need a mandrel/heat sink. You do need to clamp and fixture things as you go along, and I have an aluminum bar I put in the cocking tube area when I weld that, and you do need to go from side to side and balance out everything as you weld it, but otherwise it’s just TIG welding. Set your welder to pulse, take your time and don’t put too much heat into any given area. Under no uncertain terms should you put enough heat into a weld to burn through a receiver flat. That being said, weapons-builder does make some really nice tools. I’m currently waiting on a rear sight base welding fixture from them, just because I got tired of spending 45 minutes welding 1 rear sight base on, what with laser bore-sight tools, clamps, going back and forth looking down the back of the receiver making sure it didn’t pull, measuring it’s location with calipers, checking that you can still zero the gun after the fact. It’s quite the thing sometimes.

@ awesome thanks! I heard of some warpage happening to some guys when welding the receiver reinforcements near the ejection port where it is really thin after cutting off the magwell and is what got me concerned. I plan on definitely using an aluminum bar from the rainforest site for the cocking tube for sure but if I don’t need to spend 900 doll hairs for a heatsink then good stuff

@ no offense to them, but those guys need to work on their TIG skills and machine settings. Pulse is your friend, 2.2 hz, keep a tight arc, make sure everything is clean with acetone, and watch your puddle. Don’t be afraid to let off the throttle and stop what you’re doing if things get out of hand

@ thanks for the info! Going to be doing mine soon, fist attempt at this sort of thing but I think it will go ok

Another question, What have you found is the best way to open up the ejection port from a g3 size to 21size? I was thinking mill with dro using the arc function but was wondering if that would be too rough

@@heineken42069 aaand how. Honestly this was my favorite test firing so far

@@MartinsMachines My cover has been blown!! Finally someone with a taste for the finer things around here!

@@michaeluhl8034 I don’t know about all that!!

​@@uzifouryoutwosay oh I know so!! The standard by which all others are compared!

@@pedropaulo2488 not a chance my friend. Would go to prison here in the US.

@@ninjadave1970 It is absolutely not intended for short barreled guns. I would say it’s more of a loudener on short barreled stuff than a suppressor, as the fireball is simply moved forward and nothing is dissipated. For limited testing applications I like it, but frankly, it’s not worth much more than the 300 bucks I paid arms unlimited to get it.

@@baydog308 all of em literally just got snapped up. I was lucky to get one when I did

Sho am is! It’s a real ripper!

Amazing work

@@dallasbrunick8759 dude, it finally died a couple months back. It’s replacement…….not as good

@@dallasbrunick8759 dude it died a couple months back, probably made 30 guns on it. Bought a replacement, it’s not as good. Still have the same ball peine hammer though.

@@dallasbrunick8759 ohhh yeah a real crowd pleaser!

@@RemoteCamper Are you talking about a 51B? I do everything from start to finish. Look up Desert_Yankee_ on instagram if you have it to contact me

@@Grimaldus1701 factory german 40 degree

@@uzifouryoutwosay ah, do you happen to know if a 40 degree has about the same rof with a standard 21? I find the factory 50 degree to be a bit high

@ so I run 40 degree locking pieces as a standard upgrade to the guns I build, and it’s much less violent. I’m going to run a 36 degree piece and see if it slows down the rate of fire even more.

@@uzifouryoutwosay perfect I just ordered a 40 degree to give a try, thanks for the reply!

@@Grimaldus1701 you’re welcome! Let me know how it goes!

@@bronxkal9275 My hands get beat up all the time. Generally speaking, anything on my left hand comes from working a charging handle on a gun. I suspect I hit it on a sight rail on a 10mm reverse stretch MP5 clone I was building at the time.

HAH! You’re not wrong!

@@DavidGunner-j6r no doubt! This was my first run of anodization ever, so mistakes were made. Since then I’ve done about 100 runs with a completely different setup. This is about as crude as it gets.

I make my own receivers, but I start with a standard G3/Hk91 receiver flat.

@@uzifouryoutwosay good to know

@@timmiller9666 it’s a shop suppressor to keep the noise down, and it get worked over. It’s funny how you treat NFA items when they show up overnight and you don’t have to file a form 4 to use em.

@@baydog308 so these are DM-6 links, which are slightly different than M13, however my shop 21 runs belts, both link types, and doesn’t receive any special treatment.

@@oneijack98 check on learning! Based on the video above, are you going to want an 80, 90, 100, or 110? If the shallower the angle, the more delay to opening the action?

100 degree LP for full size.

@@uzifouryoutwosay80-90?

@@shawnwillis7561 so, to manufacture your own post 86 dealer samples, you need to be an 07 FFL, as well as being an 02 SOT. The FFL is 300 bucks every three years and the SOT is 500 dollars a year if you make less than 500,000 a year. So the licensing is relatively cheap, but everything else that goes along with manufacturing is a process and a half. Also, obtaining a license solely for the purpose of expanding your own personal collection is prohibited(it’s a question on the application) so you need to have a legitimate business purpose for manufacturing post samples. Lastly, you have to manufacture them yourselves in your own facility. Not a huge deal if you have a shop with some tooling, but if you live in an apartment it’s not gonna work.

@@FarmRoadBilt not according to the rebuild manual I had. Clearance on conical thrust bearings is better than being too tight every time.