The seal sizes are. Large OD 1.250 ID. 0.875 Depth 0.250. Small OD 1.250 ID. 0.750 Depth 0.250 inches. Good Luck.

Thank you for your comment. Glad that you got something out of it. We all encounter different issues when rebuilding these cars and I have found useful tips from others as well. All the best with your project.

The slope on the floor on the LHS is recessed to acommodate the travel on the pedals. The full travel pedal must not touch the floor and I achieved this by modifying the pedal box, If I were to do it again I would swap the floor panel from left to right to achieve a better mirror conversion. I used the original steering column brackets but manufactured the firewall parts to suit. I would rethink your idea of using rack and pinion as the suspension/steering geometry may be hard to get right. Nothing wrong with the falcon steering boxes and if using the power steering box the sub frame needs to be checked in to get the geometry correct. Some converters try to alter the shape of the pitman arm but I would not recommend this. You can use the original column and rotate it 180 degrees to put the blinker arm on the right side. The video posted was all I had from an old tape so no more info in that respect. In all I converted 4 Mustangs, two for myself and two for friends and had no issues with the engineers.I also did a 1985 Transam. Good Luck with it.

@@carlogic1960 Cheers, thanks for the reply. no doubt you have the talent. Do you know if these pro converters change over the floor area? What do you think of the RRS systems designed here. Good tip on turning the column around, makes sense. I was thinking of a later model oz pedal system and brake setup. Not worried about trying to be original, just a nice driver and fast. I like hotties.😁 Prefer RHD on our roads.

I have never seen the floor area converted not to say it hasn't been done. Likewise the RHS fender skirt allowing a better fit for the brake servo which I did on all of my conversions. (you can see where I cut that out in my vid) I know nothing of the RRS kits but can only assume that they are the goods but are they really necessary and worth the expense when the original works well. You can boost the strength of the shock towers with extra welding and fit a Shelby style brace. I found that those old Fords always went where you pointed them when set up correctly. I did fit disc brakes though. It all boils down to what you want to achieve and what budget you have.Beware of over capitalising.@@kramrollin69

@@carlogic1960 Cheers, thanks for the tips, got a 69 Cougar, so already has disc brakes and reinforced shock towers...Just want to update for a more modern ride, and room. Going 385 series BBF. They do a modern Falcon brake upgrade, can use modern booster etc. See how we go. Thanks for your time.

There is an earlier segment which shows some of the issues I faced in preparing the bonnet. I removed the underside frame (not recommended) that made getting a decent fit more difficult. All you can do is gently hammer it into shape. You could make a timber template off the shroud to give you the profile. Really it is just a matter of perseverance. I spent many hours on mine and it is still not 100% to the point that I will probably revisit it and repaint it. Good luck with it.

Seems OK so far. Give it a go.

How did you get the finish on the brighter/silver one? Paint? Vapor honing?

@@killuificould just acrylic paint from a rattle can.

Hope it goes well for you Alan. Like I said get everything prepared and give it plenty of time in the ice before cutting the new one.

Thanks for the visit. I was happy with the result.

Hi Rob. The mesh cost me $99 AUD so very similar in price. $1AUD gets .52p at the moment. The repair and replating was AUD$300 from memory so given that a repro grille is about AUD$1000 and of dubious quality I think the exercise was worth it.

I think some of my neighbours wished they weren't.

Thank you.

I purchased a new one from ebay. Looking at past purchases it cost about US$14.delivered and I think it actually came from China.

It was an interference fit sealed with epoxy

Good point. I will put some anti seize on the threads .

Thanks Mark. It took quite a while to get it dry just with the heat.

I just checked those out Rob and would purchase one if the freight cost wasn't so high.

Thank you for your comment. I have only done the preliminary work as shown to assess the feasibility of the conversion. I have made the brackets, sourced the variable speed sensor etc. but have now concentrated on the rest of the restoration. I will get back to it eventually though. The main issue will be the joining of the 2 steering column shafts without any welding and I plan to do that with a pinned machined collar.

@@carlogic1960 Super! We are anticipating that one!

Thank you!

Thank you. Coming good now and back working on the car but light work only. Thank you for subscribing. I think we may have a lot in common. Cheers

@@carlogic1960 Yes, we have the same goals too. To keep our babies on the road. Take care care my friend. Again I hope your recovery is complete and quick. My dad went through the same procedure. He is now doing great and way better that before.

The Moss parts are a cast brass and nicely finished. Shame that they did not fit prior to adjustment. The one's taken out of the frame look like a mild steel from the rusty pitting. I do not know if they were original or a replacement at some time over the years. Anyway with a bit of manipulation we managed to get a reasonable result. Thank you for your comment. Cheers.

Yes I like the sound of the brass plates. If I could find some brass I would probably re do them. The holes in the Moss brackets did not line up very well either but it was an acceptable result. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks Ian

I have all of my hard brake lines installed except at the master cylinder. No problems with that. Thanks for your comment. See video Part 45.

The potted palm tree survived.

@@carlogic1960 Good to know! I was just kidding. 😊 Super cool, unbelievably technical build! I was an A&P and private pilot/instrument rating in my earlier life so I understand the amazing feat of your accomplishment. Super cool!

Yes I purchased locktite but ended up using epoxy letting it cure for 24 hours. It gave me a bit more time to get the sleeve in place.

@@allensquire4507 What type/model epoxy or loctite can withstand brakefluid? Great work!