Thank you😊😊

Much more modern looking than the one that I have. Mine has wood handles and fake wood finish around it. Somewhere between the 50s and the 70s I think. I found a brand new one in the box the other day it's a very small one. It gives off that awful vintage wiring/electronic smell. The larger one that I regularly use gives off the smell but not as bad. I can barely use the new one because the musty smell is so strong when I plug it in. 😢😢

Ummmmm yeah I can imagine cranking that mon thru friday

Just pump it up after each crank

I agree with tallboyyyy, people used to daily these when they were new. That's all they had. My old Chevy was carbinated too. That was driven daily. Old old video, going to you to look at the Oldsmobible, cold fall day, the car started almost like it was hot. Near instantly. When they sit for a while, the fuel evaporates out of the carb and might also drain back a bit in the fuel line. The pumping is kind of just for show; you need to do it once to set the choke. Then it's going to take quite a bit of cranking, took yours a total of about 15 seconds between tries. And that of course is because these cars use mechanical fuel pumps. They pump slowly because not much pressure is needed. So the engine's got to spin around for a while as it slowly fills the line and ultimately gets some fuel in the carb. Then it lights off. If you poured some gas in the carb, it would light off almost immediately; the hope is it will run long enough, and because the engine is running faster than the starter motor can turn it, you will get enough pumps out of the mechanical fuel pump to keep the fuel moving and it will continue to run. In my opinion, that's not actually the greatest thing, especially in this kind of weather. In this cold, the engine oil is thicker and doesn't want to flow nicely. So you'd end up with a dry start, with a couple of seconds of running without good oil pressure, and you might hear the engine ticking. But the starter turns the engine enough, with these extended cranks, that often they'll get at least some oil pressure and therefore oil up to the top of the engine, so when it lights off, at least the components are lubricated. So, a cranker-wanker old start cold start is actually a good thing.

Could I imagine driving it everyday? Yes. If it was driven daily it would probably start right up on one pump to set the choke. Letting a carbinated car sit for long stretches between use is what makes them cranky about starting. I've owned several and they like to be used daily.

The good old "new defective part" issue. Every now and again that one pops up. And it throws even the most seasoned techs for a loop. Any tech who had ever had this experience will be happy to tell their story. So, if possible, always test new parts before installation. It may sound like a time waster, because it's new, how could it be bad? But it's a huge time saver if actually done and you find one. Metering the thermal fuse took all of a second, but having two that were metering the same seemed to indicate good, even though bad. And while on my soapbox, I will tell my story: I once had a customer's Acer desktop computer. We didn't really have any of those that ever came in, but I got stuck working on it. I had found a bad motherboard. Ordered a replacement, installed it, still no good. Replaced every other part with a known good proven working part, and it still didn't work. New motherboard is defective. Sent that back, got another. Same thing. Went through 5 of them and still the machine was dead. I don't know how many strings were pulled, but we shipped to it Acer for repair. it took several weeks until it came back. The note from their technician said "bad motherboard, replaced, working properly". The customer asked me what the difference was, he said "You guys replaced it 5 times, how come they replaced it and it worked?" I said "You are right, they did replace it and it worked, but they didn't say how many THEY went through before they found one that worked." Clearly, that wasn't a very good computer. All in a day's work. This one took a while to shake off.

Dean Winchester be like... 28:17

Notice how the microphone sounds different when zooming in and out? Samsung has a feature where you can disable that by opening camera app set it to video, tap the gear icon and tap advanced video options and it should give you the option to turn on and off zoom in mic.

The mad scientist 😀

So it WAS the thermal fuse! I was initially thinking that. Amazing how you got a bad new part, but it does happen. Not to boast, but if I was there and I saw the thermal fuse was not giving you continuity, I immediately would have said "Yep, there's your problem." and saved ya guys some time! I still would have checked other parts too of course. But I definitely would have also been mystified when seeing both of them being bad. Not sure how that connector got hot like that with the cycling thermostat, but I think they actually do say that if you replace the thermal fuse, just replace the cycling thermostat too. That might be the opposite of that, or both scenarios might be true. Either way, glad it's all fixed again!

It’s nice that these machines are still kicking! I have a ken 90 series and it cleans amazing i love it

Seems like every year or so, one problem or another pops up with any of your 4 laundry appliances. These machines are pushing around 30 or more years old, and probably being driven harder than they ever were in their existence. If you got rid of these and went HE, I'd be there every other week.

My dream washing machines! Love the action of dual action agitators! I really hope of these days I can find one myself or a Kenmore 90 series unit with the triple action agitator. I am curious if your Kenmore 80 series dryer is getting fixed? I was watching your videos of what happened to the dryer. Hopefully you get it fixed.

Starting off the new year with a dual. I watched your older videos and I enjoyed them very much

I didn't actually give you that bulb, you said you were keeping it. That bulb kept you from replacing that lamp. I believe you knocked tabs off of the dimmers you put in my living room. Something about there was no way to make them fit otherwise. I think you knocked off alternating tabs so if you took the middle one out, the next dimmer would have the top and bottom removed and just the middle, and each one touches the next so it's supposed to help dissipate the heat. Replacing the dimmer with one of a different type would drive me absolutely insane. But that's just me. I need the little switch at the bottom. That type of dimmer is actually designed so you can leave the slider where you want and simply switch the light on and off. My house had them already so they stayed. I'm actually better off with the type you installed that has the click at the bottom. You are absolutely correct with turning the dimmer on, there is a rule in this house that the slider is put all the way to the dimmest position before the switch goes on. This prevents a huge inrush of current hitting the filaments in the bulbs, which can cause them to burn out--we've all turned a lamp on only to get a bright flash and the bulb is out. The only exception is if there's an emergency in that room like something fell and broke, of course just turn the light on. So what was the point in not hooking the ground wire up? Yes, technically it's grounded, I get it and I'm not eschewing it. If there weren't a ground wire in the box I could understand, though you could make a pigtail if it were a metal box. Then again if the box itself isn't grounded it's all a moot point, but why wasn't it hooked in the first place? I'd hate to hear "laziness" because everything else was done right, including the use of a manual screwdriver for the cover plate. I had to replace the dimmer in my kitchen some time ago, it failed in the very same way, the switch at the bottom crackled and made bad sounds. Eventually it no longer turned on, or if it did, sometimes it would just go out. I tried opening it up but there is no fixing that poor quality switch. What I did do was jumper across it so it's always on, but that's used for a lamp that has a separate full disconnect further down the line.

Before we got our kenmore 90 series a couple years ago we had a Hotpoint from the early 2000’s, and it had a timer knob with the little hole through it, and 2 other knobs for temperature and load size. It was a heavy duty washer. It sounded like these ones and cleaned very well, but one day it stopped draining and my dad didn’t wanna look into fixing it so we then got a new kenmore 90 series as a gift from my grandparents

We would close our lid after use. Then it started to rust so we kept it open. But i get to do ths fun lid replacement.

Dude the driver side is a pain to tighten but it seems you have a led too big for that housing.

I seriously wanted some frozen coffee but didn't want to continue to pay $7 at Dunkin and ran across this video. I LOVE how honest and real his video is. Plus bro is hilarious!!!!! But I'm definitely going to make my own cup now. Thanks brother 💜

yk, this was made RIGHT before the TR design. im curious if they purposely did that to make you buy a TR series washer… just my thought.

Very nice lighting set up. Merry Christmas to you too.

Buon Natale!

Merry Christmas Joe

The old one will far out last the new one the newer ones are no longer made by Panasonic. They’re made by the Chinese.

Go by the book might as well clean it all while you have it out. Inspect all the wires as well.

Wire on a bush!

Well, there's a hell of a lot of current going through that timer. Heavy electrical loads cause arcing. So based, on the age, I'd say that's probably normal. If it were a gas dryer, first of all the contacts wouldn't be as heavy because there's no heating element, and secondly the arcing wouldn't be as great. Was that a failure point? Great question. Personally, I wouldn't have taken the timer apart as we haven't proved it to be good or bad yet. And it may not go back together right. I'm speculating here, I know washer timers are a whole mess, but they have more to do. It doesn't come as much of a surprise that the ebay part was used, I don't know if it were marked as such but I'd like to think the seller at least got that right.

As for the arcing, that’s from the contact that is opened when it enters the cool down. Usually there’s arcing once the contact gets pitted, creating resistance, which in turn causes a negative feedback loop, will get to a point where it won’t work anymore. Usually this is common in electric dryers with 5400 to 5600 watt heating elements since there’s more amperage, not as common with electric dryers with a 4200 to 4500 watt element since there’s a little less amperage flowing through the contact.

That's unfortunate. Gotta love how Ebay sellers aren't honest as they claim they to be.

Merci beaucoup chef

Auxito 24000 lumen led bulb was way too big to fit the low beam socket of my 2019 Toyota Highlander. Auxito website guaranteed the fit but they were incorrect. Beware when you purchase led bulbs because some companies have questionable fitment guides.

Are you sure it's not the door switch even though it turns the light on and off? I believe there are two different contacts in the switch, one that runs the light and the other that tells the machine the door is closed? I had to replace the switch in my dryer last winter and the switch I put in had three wires coming out of it whereas the broken switch only had two. I made a video if you are interested. The connector was made in such a way that you could plug the three wire switch into the connector inside the dryer and the extra wire just doesn't make contact with anything. I am assuming the extra wire on the switch was for a light that in my dryer doesn't exist. This is probably all fixed by now but I'd look into the door switch before anything else.

That's too bad it was the wrong timer. But of course, the mad scientist has not been there yet to meter things. Could possibly be a bad motor, that hasn't been ruled out yet. Being that it does nothing, it's probably a problem in the controls panel, but that remains to be seen. In due time...

No dryers were harmed in the making of this video 😀

Thou's son shall get well soon.

Catastrophic failure?

Stew will do absolutely anything for some sort of gimmick. Obviously, somebody makes this machine. He found out about it and just HAD to have it in his stores. Once he does, he'll make a commercial about it. Then he runs those commercials again and again, same ones year after year, I know because I hear them and remember them. I really get the feeling Stew has a lot of skeletons in his closet.

Geico is by far the worst employer from culture to environment training leadership and expectations…. Avoid working for or being a customer under any circumstance.

I can't wait to see a cycle test.

I'm rather impressed that LG dryer is still there.

Yeah I don't use fabric softener either, all it does it give all that buildup not only in the agitator, but the outer tub as well. The inside of mine is still spotless. I don't know how the outer tub is, but given that mine can do warm rinses now thanks to Jay, it should only help things.

Holy SHIT that's the first time I've ever seen a Speed Queen rust, I agree with Jay's suggestion, must have been a run of faulty paint or faulty prep.

A good thumbnail 😀

You're right, I should have been there. Would have kept those screws in order. In this case, there's no head of the screw to strip out, the drill will happily strip the threads out in the sheet metal.

Put new coupler on, tested it and it barely spins and comes to a complete stop but motor is still going. What could be the issue? Appreciate it 👍

Let's hope it won't rust again. Like maybe put a big towel on top of the washer when it ain't in use so it won't rust out again.

Let's hope it doesn't get rusted again. That's why some use rust pervention spray or whatever it's called usually sold under the Blaster brand.

Sorry I couldn't be there for this. It's funny, wif used to do jigsaw puzzles with Doo Dah Doo. What you're really doing, whether it's this machine or some other, or a car, is a man's jigsaw puzzle. All the pieces have to go together just right to make it work. Personally, I would have unbolted the controls panel from the top first, especially since it has to be transplanted onto the new top cover anyway, but there's no hard and fast rule on exactly what order things have to be done. The controls panel is what's called an "assembly", it's a bunch of parts pre-assembled by the manufacturer. Typically, assemblies are best to remove first, because it makes dealing with the individual parts they are attached to a lot less cumbersome.

No mad scientist, no problem!