00 Impala wont start when 3.8 Engine is warm or hot!

[@ratagris21]

Great video. You can go to Harbor Freight and get the $5 kit and the one that is already on there will work on that clamp without have to file it down. Also a pick will help on that small ring. You're suppose to apply a dab of motor oil on the rings will allow it to slip into place to make the smaller clip to install easier. Disconnet the negative battery terminal to clear any codes as well.

[@badbob4546]

I know this is an old post, but still very helpful information, thanks very much for a job well done.

[@nilloc93]

you can also just pull the 15 amp fuse labeled "f/pmp" its right in the middle of the upper fuse box. Also to everyone saying don't stall the car out, the worst that will do is throw a code that you can clear after you're done working. Bleeding from the shrader valve doesn't get all the fuel out of the lines and is also way more of a mess when you have a wonderful system for getting rid of fuel right in front of you

[@RussellBooth1977]

The biggest cause of a no start condition with a Buick V6 engine is a faulty crank angle sensor where the car will start o.k. when cold but won't start when hot due to failing connections inside the sensor itself. We had that problem with an LN3 engine 20 years ago !!!! The one in the video looks like the L36 engine which runs with the OBD2 Delphi ECU from 1996 onwards,the same one as my Chevrolet LS1 engine does,they both run about 58 PSI of fuel pressure on average. The L36 engine runs with an OBD1.5 Bosch ECU in Australia as OBD2 wasn't mandatory in my country until the end of 2004,that engine only runs about 40 PSI of fuel system pressure,the LS1 engines ran with the OBD2 ECU anyway but ran an in tank fuel pressure regulator. I bought the same sort of fuel pressure regulator for $10 AUD on EBay & it's adjustable, so I slipped it into the fuel sender unit then adjusted it whilst running it in a bucket of fuel,mine was just running lean & setting a trouble code,along with maxed out fuel trim readings of 25%. Note the L36,LS1,LM7,etc all use the same fuel pressure regulator except in Australia where it uses the 40 PSI regulator.

[@rcharne]

Russell, there is one easy way to determine if the crank sensor is faulty. As you turn the key to start, watch the needle on the tachometer. If the sensor is working ok, the tach will read somewhere around 200-400 RPM's on the L36 engine. If the sensor is faulty, the needle will stay at zero and not move at all. Also, with a bad sensor, the engine will many times quit while running. And here is a sure way to test a crank sensor with a multimeter troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1

[@RobertoSantiagoRodriguez]

Russell Booth Thanks for your input, I was suspecting a sensor or weak electrical connection. Do you advice to test the Crankshaft sensor when cold and then hot?

[@supie5063]

Wont it throw a code for a crank angle sensor I'm having this issue but with no codes i replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, regulator vacuum line,fuel relay, fuel filter, o2 sensors, spark plugs and still no dice. Runs when cold missing and dies once warm.

[@erickl3329]

@@supie5063 Did you ever figure it out? Mines having the same issue, replaced the same parts as you.

[@dustyrhoads5016]

The plier you bought is a snap ring plier for removing. Snap rings! Not o rings good job good video

[@edyap9247]

I have the same problem and Motormouth followers gave the same suggestion but never gave an idea how to fix this and where to get the parts thanks

[@RobertoSantiagoRodriguez]

Great video, sir thanks! How did you reach your conclusion? Years of working on vehicles would have convinced me it was an electrical problem; since it was only happening when the car was warm/hot. I will test the fuel pressure on the 2001 Saturn L200 which is also refusing to start when warm. It starts up and runs fine when cold, you drive 3 miles to a store, shut it off and it won't restart for at least an hour. Thanks again.

[@jaythomas3224]

Same here havent fixed yet its been a week for me just checkin forums

[@MonkeyPunchZPoker]

Gas smell on start up is a symptom, as is negative long term fuel trims (rich condition). On bad ones when you remove the vacuum hose gas will come out of the regulator. Mine must have had a slight internal leak cause my symptoms were intermittent. However I pulled the vacuum hose while running and warmed up and watched the fuel trims get close to zero, still saw no gas after a minute or two. Then I put the vacuum hose back on and trims went way rich, took the hose off again and this time it was slightly damp from gas.

[@fordmustang98guy]

I own a 2002 Buick Regal LS similar to the impala also has the 3800 Series II motor & for some reason when the engine is cold it cranks too long for 5 secs on some days it will start fine but I think my fuel pressure regulator could be bad as well this video is helpful and I am also having the same problem with that fuel pressure regulator but it never stalls out on me tho

[@Luk0Irish]

Thanks a lot great video!! worked great. many others i saw were not as informative and did not use the 3.8 v6 for the impala so much appreciated!

[@SURRYHOUSE2]

Thank you sir. Enjoyed that

[@daboys66]

Would a bad fuel pump regulator prevent it from starting and or make the engine stop running?

[@jaythomas3224]

I have this problem on a 06 Envoy Denali. Starts fine cold wont start when warm if i drive over 15min warm it will stall and leave me stranded for a hour till it cools back down temp guage flat. No forums have defintive answer just a lot of people spending alot of money and no fix.

[@KennyG233]

ever figure it out?

[@tashahopkins60]

Ok, I need help ppl, 2001 3.8l Monte SS, so no sounds from the speakers.. amp looks fine, fuses are good and the original head unit displays the song playing seems to be fine. next thing my gas gauge is pegged on F even if the low fuel light comes on so obviously it's not reading correct.. and #3 with a warm start I have to hit the accelerator to keep it running, once it levels out I don't have any problems at stop signs or red lights only issue I've noticed is it can be sluggish at times, like goin up the mountain and say I start the car and it takes me a min to get my Bluetooth speaker connected (no sound issue 🙄) not all the time but occasionally when I go to put it in gear it will start idling crazy.. maf cleaned, fuel pressure checked, oil and filters changed and checked

[@maxlove4821]

Im gonna try this om my montecarlo maybe it can help me solve the problem if not im gonna come look for you and give you an old fashioned beat down. 🤔👍🇵🇷

[@mikebradley4245]

pressure regulator will not stop it from running... it controls pressure 10 lbs but only when vacuum is dropped at the regulator. anotherwords unless it is busted and leakingvthe regulator will not stop it from starting,,,, i could be wrong...

[@Eddie-0102]

My impala wont start when its hot. I mean it wont make a single noise. The dash lights turn off when i turn the key and no noise no clicking. I keep trying for a minute or 2 and it turns on. What could it be?

[@victorjackson504]

My guess is that you have a bad battery connection with your main battery cables, either at the battery or at the other ends. Your dash or headlights will not work while you are trying to start it, then no electrical current is flowing.

[@Eddie-0102]

@@victorjackson504 that was 2 years ago. It was the starter.

[@giannarosa213]

THE WARM OR HOT WON'T START ENGINE ISSUE,WENT AWAY AFTER INSTALLING A ( MAS )MASS AIR FLOW. ABOUT 100 BUCKS FOR PART.

[@greedystevie7943]

Gianna Rosa 200 if brand new

[@jason-ml4di]

ok you said you were going to make another video to say if it fixed problem..i bet it didnt fix problem.. my 2000 impala wont start after getting warm and letting it set for more then 15 mins.. i replaced like he said was causing problem NO!! it didnt do anything it does same thing it did after replacing the regulator... SO THIS ISNT THE PROBLEM...

[@jason-ml4di]

it was fuel pump not holding pressure after it got warm.. starts great now after replacing the pump..

[@mikebradley4245]

wow... no way !! are you for real?? i am a real mechanic the mechanical vacuum pressure regulator does not have any wire going to it... why would the computer need to "learn" the regulator??? it increases the fuel pressure when you drop vacuum due to throttle position or load on the engine. it increase the pressure because it holds back 10 lbs from full pressure. if the fuel pump put out 50 psi the pressure reg holds the pressure at 45 psi so when there is an increase in engine speed the drop in vacuum causes the f.p.r to go full pressure, but never have i seen the fuel pressure regulator AKA FPR stop the engine from running

[@j26fremont]

01 Monte with this engine. What's word is this problem is intermittent. Like when the engine is hot and you turn it off and turn it on right away, let's say to get gas, I'm ok. If you leave it sit for 15 or so, then try to, then the problem surfaces. Let it for another half hour or so, starts immediately. I always thought vapor lock. I'll try this! But what exactly is making it fail under these circumstances?

[@jimcollins9999]

It's the crank position sensor...no start, hard start, elongated start & when driving after it heats up, the car will die at stop light/sign at idle.

[@markrevier7621]

did you find a solution?

[@rickrockin155]

my bobcat won't start when warm. Maybe it also the regulator

[@randykeelin7350]

Ok

[@JanielRamirez-rv3kh]

So ur guessing

[@dooley3425]

I dislike. Cause how do i kno your car started after that? You should of started your car to show

[@jason-ml4di]

it didnt start , it had same problem... i changed mine like he said and it still did same thing when it gets warm...