0015 Experiment with Rails Connect Point Motor Controller

A while I ago I bought a Rails Connect Point Motor Controller to experiment with as an alternative to my PM-1s and relays. In this video I explain the various things that I did and what I concluded.
I refer to video number 5 - from 3:07 in that video there's relevant background information about my existing LED set up: • 0005 Wiring point frog...

[@iansngauge]

Hi Jonathan! This was very interesting, especially the bit about reliability! I experimented with these units when I was testing solenoid point motors and came to the conclusion that they were too unreliable after three of the six I'd purchased either stopped working or failed to work out of the box! I like the that they have a CDU and DCC control built in, but a 50% reliability rate is way too low for me! All the best, Ian.

[@endoorrailway]

Hi Ian, Thanks for commenting. I'd completely forgotten you did a video with Rails Connect! I'm convinced I must have watched it (likely a while after you made it), and have just re-watched as a refresher. That's a shocking reliability ratio, I assumed I'd just been unlucky but it sounds like reliability problems aren't confined to Dapol tender locos, or SEEP aux switches... I hope there isn't something of a hobby-wide theme emerging here! Fingers crossed for the servos on Shelfington

[@PiddleInTheMarshbyMarkIreland]

Not fully understanding DCC fully I used standard solenoid point motors from Gaugemaster. But as I learnt I tried out a few different DCC point systems. The most simple and successful one was to convert the standard motors with Gaugemasters DCC81 point motor decoder and if needed the DCC80 auto frog. This resulted in lots of wiring being removed and an easier system to use. They are both simple to fit and set up.

[@endoorrailway]

There are certainly lots of options around; the DCC81 + DCC80 costs a lot more than one of the Rails Connect units to do the same thing, except if it's actually reliable then arguably it's more, and is therefore better value. I started out with the autofrogs, but they didn't work well with one of my locos, so they became a no-go on Endoor. I haven't heard of anyone else having issues with them though.

[@PiddleInTheMarshbyMarkIreland]

@@endoorrailway They both work reliably for me

[@LincolnshireRose]

Personally, i would use a 100 ohm resistor, LEDs last longer at 10 mA, 30mA is quite a lot of current. The leds dont dim much until you get down too about 4mA. So 100 or 120 ohm should be better. Just my thoughts. All the best

[@endoorrailway]

Hi, thanks that's a useful tip! I hadn't come across mention of anything like that when finding out about LEDs - it's certainly worth knowing and something that I'll factor in to any future LEDs that I add - after all, it doesn't hurt to try a lower current and see how the LED looks.

[@PaulGarwood]

Problem with the DC Concepts RPM-SDB.1 unit, does anyone have one? I could only get this to throw one way on the points