02 Honda Civic 1.7 timing belt tensioner

I've changed my timing belt twice before in this Honda 2002 Civic 1.7. I never had a problem before. With close to 300K miles, the water pump went out. This time, I bought a water pump, timing belt, tensioner kit and changed all 3 out. The next day, after driving 25 miles the car dies. Towed home, car would start for 5 secs. then die. Found the cam gear had advanced 1 tooth. I realigned it, and tightened the tensioner, thinking I left it too loose. Drive the next day 150 miles and come home. Next day, driving out of the driveway, car dies 1/2 mile away. Tow it home and find the cam gear jumped forward 2 teeth and barely runs. I found that I could push the tensioner against the spring and the belt is loose enough to pop off of the gear. I'm thinking "if the bolt is tight, why is the tensioner loose?" I found that you have to rotate the lower lock plate down towards the tensioner stop before tightening the tensioner bolt or else the belt can jump teeth when decelerating. The new tensioner had a clip that held the lock plate towards the stop, but I removed it before I installed the tensioner. Keeping this "clip" in should keep this from happening to you. Mine rotated so far counterclockwise that it allowed the belt to stay loose. If you look at the tensioner, there is a plate pulled by the spring and a plate that rotates. You rotate the arm on that plate against the "flat part" of the spring loaded plate. The clip holds this in the locked position. To check if this is correct, after installing a new belt and tightening down the tensioner bolt, push against the arm that the spring is pulling on. If it moves towards the loose side, you have to loosen the bolt, rotate the plate against the flat stop, then tighten it back up. Hope this helps save you some money. I had to dig into this to find out why this engine suddenly kept jumping timing belt teeth, not knowing that the clip was so important.

[@_864tyler]

9 years later and this helped me. Much thanks! Appreciate you!

[@chevtrukman]

My 04 Civic just jumped time after approximately 5k miles. It was rattling for awhile and I couldnt figure it out. Turns out the tension spring cut through the hole from the tensioner moving. This is the ONLY video I found on the whole web that instructs about adjusting the stop. All other instructions say to pull the pin after tightening the bolt. I have followed those instructions to a T many times and was always confused why the tensioner had so much travel. This video is awesome. Going to adjust as you recommend. Thanks!

[@shelbydogg6251]

chevtrukman . Glad it helped you. Just don’t over tighten that bolt. The threads inside strip out easily,

[@vjportillo]

Excellente my friend! Was wondering if I should change out the tensioner but now I know that it needs to be pushed to the spot it did not feel right and thought that the pully was shot because it did not have spring to it, thank you for sharing.

[@darbarizone]

❤❤ Toooooo much thanks brother yesterday 3rd April 2024 i suck in this problem and now i understand the problem 🤗

[@shelbydogg]

If you can squeeze the belt and see the tensioner moving, even after the bolt is tight, that is letting you know that that lock has is in the wrong spot

[@ELY-qg2vn]

Thank you so much i believe this will fix my problem! No mention of the stop in the initial timing belt replacement videos i watched

[@shelbydogg]

You’re welcome. If you can push the belt in and you see the tensioner moving against the spring even after the bolt is tight, the stop needs to be rotated. Tightening the bolt too far will strip the threads.

[@ELY-qg2vn]

@@shelbydogg sounds good ill be sure not to strip them thank you!

[@devanporter821]

Hi everyone. After having the exact same issues after replacing the head gasket.. i found the solution.. there is an actual procedure to install this tensioner every time as the distance between all the pulleys may have changed and thus the slack in the belt, new or old. the holes between the rotating plate (spring connects to it) and the stationary plate (squeezed to the block with the bolt) are supposed to be in line with each other (NOT the allen hex hole). if you buy a new tensioner it comes with a "grenade pin". After checking these two plates, i actually noticed the holes between the two were in line ( i didnt touch the bolt originally). I had my belt jump more than two teeth. I adjusted them now similar to this video (move down the stationary plate so that it is closer to the "stop" tab of the rotating plate with the spring. However i pushed the stationary plate a little bit down so the holes were offset by approx 5mm. DO NOT push the stationary/fixed plate all the way down until it touches the stop of the rotating plate with the spring under full tension. this will make it so that the belt cannot ever get any looser than this. You want a little bit of gap because once the engine warms up, the pulleys become farther apart from thermal expansion and thus tighten the belt. IF YOU HAVE the stopper touching the fixed plate you will over tension the belt and cause a premature/catastrophic failure. you need that buffer for thermal expansion!! if you find that your belt is jumping teeth it is too loose... however be careful how much "tighten up" the gap between the stopper and fixed plate. During vibration of the belt, the stopper will go back and forth and contact the tab on the fixed plate. the spring allows for this movement back and forth to allow for vibration. good luck!!

[@rgreeneish]

thanks for the video. I just finished one last night and I swore I had it lined up correctly. When I went to start it, it would start and die. I pulled the top cover and discovered it had jumped 1 tooth CCW. and I remember when I installed the tensioner pulley that I did not use the pin to rotate that part against the stop. The good news is that now that I know how everything comes apart I will be much faster at fixing it this time.

[@trevormorgan7138]

You gotta have that pin installed. You put the tensioner on loosley so it can pivot. You put the belt over and install the spring (which will pull it in). Verify timing by rotating the engine. Tighten the bolt to spec. Then after pull the grenade pin and the spring will be able to pull it in further. This basically ensures the tensioner is in the correct orientation and tightended down before the grenade pin is pulled for true tension.

[@shelbydogg]

This is for people that no longer have that pin. I’m showing the plate that the spring pin would moved.

[@caseyadams3713]

I had the same issue where it just quit. I’m gonna try retiming it and locking that stop. I swear if that’s all that happened I’ll be beating myself up forever. Once I see if that works I’ll return to confirm. It’s videos like this I wish I could find right when I need it not a month later and the cars down. Thanks for the info

[@shelbydogg]

After you remove the balancer and take off the timing chain cover, reach down there and squeeze the belt together before you loosen the tensioner bolt. You’ll see the tension move over, which shouldn’t happen if it was against the stop before the bolt gets tightened.

[@caseyadams3713]

@@shelbydogg that’s what I’m thinking. I’ve done timing before but not on a Honda lol. Love this car hope I can get it running again. Stupid that the top cover sits under the valve cover and the bottom behind the crank but that’s the only way to get back there. 😆

[@caseyadams3713]

I just got in to pinch the belt and you nailed it thank you so much dude like you just saved me thousands if I can get it going. Yea the tensioner shouldn’t move and it does. Thanks an million bro 😎

[@shelbydogg]

Just don’t over tighten the bolt. Somebody must’ve tried this on the car before I bought it so I had to use a longer bolt but it is only holding on by a few threads. They think if they tighten the bolt tighter, the belt will not move. But you can see that it is not the bolt that is loose and moving.

[@caseyadams3713]

@@shelbydogg I’ve been chasing an oil leak for almost a year and redid everything oil pump and water pump kit the whole 9. Ran for a week and just gave up 5 minutes from home. I bought mine from a dealer and it’s been in a reck and has a used engine in it. Didn’t know till it was already too late. I’ll take note of that cause a lot of the bolts on this car do strip easy just from age. Really appreciate you taking the time man I’ll be back on once I see what happens. Thanks again

[@TheSmileyTek]

Good video. Thanks for making sure we can do it properly

[@emiliomorales7862]

Thank you for the video help me a lot .

[@armandoolivares501]

Thank u I've bn going crazy for three weeks bought a car from a auction turns out had a blown head gasket seized water pump cracked manifold hole in the radiator timing belt cover melt all over this car has bn my daily nightmare I was 1 more video away from giving up .

[@shelbydogg]

My little Honda has over 226,000 miles on it and is still running good. Adjust the valves if you haven’t done it yet. Good luck and it will be worth it when you finally get to drive it for a long time.

[@shelbydogg]

Sorry, my last comment saying my Civic has 226,000 miles is another 2002 silver 4 door civic. I sold the black one in the video after I paid off my house and drive a nicer car for work since I get paid for mileage. Always drove Hondas and Toyotas for work till the house was paid off. Bought this other Honda with over 150,000 and when I changed the belt, someone must’ve had the same problem with the tensioner stop not being rotated because the bolt threads in the engine were stripped when somebody tried to tighten it too tight. This is what happens when someone doesn’t know about the stop. The spring gives it the correct tension BUT the stop is what keeps the tensioner from pulling on the spring after you tighten the bolt. Luckily I found a longer bolt to keep it tight enough but if I have to change the belt again I will put in a helicoil to fix the threads.

[@chuckbarthel1931]

Thanks,you helped a lot!!

[@shelbydogg]

Chuck, glad to help out. I have another 4 door civic with a 1.7 vtec, that someone obviously had a timing problem too. That bolt is just about stripped out. Tells me someone was in there having the same problem and thought tightening the bolt tighter would fix it. It doesn't!

[@neilwaight720]

This is the only part of this timing belt i can't seem to understand, i really good i get it rite, i can't afford to screw this up

[@JbowlsGlassworx]

I just broke a timing belt 200 miles from home. My tensioner bolt came loose an my belt shredded on my cover. All new timing kit. I am reinstalling a belt roadside got it put together now I have a flashing yellow engine light. Car runs an revs though it feels like a misfire. so I am thinking maybe the plugs or coils. But maybe my tensioner is off because I didn’t have my key this time. I set it so it’s in same location as key would be an then I spread open the tab to the stopper like you did. I guess I could have ruined my valves but I don’t hear them an like I said it does rev still.(I only tried to like 3k)

[@heribertorodriguez4405]

Thank you so much man this help

[@shelbydogg]

Any check engine codes saying which cylinder(s) might be misfiring? Do a compression check to see if any valves hit the pistons. I have another video in which I changed 1 exhaust valve and reassembled.

[@slulion777]

Good vid thanks for making it

[@jaydee4200]

How funny is that I just went thruw the same shit and I fixed the issue same shit the tensioner the little arm u said I'm relieved

[@CharlesGwinn-ep9pb]

IDK why Honda felt the need to make this procedure SO complicated.Ive done many timing belts over the years and the traditional tensioning method was 'nobrainer'...ie lock the wheel open,slide on belt,release wheel,rotate engine a few turns,re lock wheel down and done.This new fangled gizmo opens itself up to disasters like timing belt coming loose causing pistons on valves damage,etc...Hey Honda ..IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!

[@shelbydogg]

Honda seems to know what they’re doing for everything with all of the older models. I’m sure they saw the reason to do what they did with this piece. My 2002 civic is still going after 245,000 miles and the only thing I’ve worked on was the timing belt replacement, adjusting valves and grinding off a little bit off of the AC clutch because it wasn’t always grabbing. Other than that nothing else has had to be replaced including the alternator or AC compressor. Look at the old motorcycle engines that keep running forever. I am working on Chinese clones now that the Honda engines are so easy to work on.

[@CharlesGwinn-ep9pb]

@@shelbydogg Im glad youve had such success (as have I with my 260k 2002 Accord).Its just that Im looking at my broken spring, and upon further research, have come across several others who've experienced the same. Someone said that this new design allows the spring to essentialy actively ride(keeping tension in the belt) Apparently in the old reliable design, the spring was just for initial tension, and becomes unnecessary once the bolt is locked down. Also heard Honda issued a TSB related to this issue. Apparently on this new wheel you have to position it so a tab is locked in place prior to pulling a factory 'grenade' pin?? Then attaching the spring. On an INTERFERENCE engine, the last thing you want is that spring to wear out from movement over time, resulting in a FUBAR engine.

[@damiengotti7803]

Made my day brudda

[@shelbydogg]

Fix it?

[@samqassom]

I'm wondering if this might be my same issue. I replaced the water pump and tensioner as well on my 02 Civic EX and it starts for about 2 seconds and then stalls... First, how do you know it jumped teeth? (Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, but still a newbee with car mechanics.) Second, one you noticed it had jumped teeth, what did you do to get it back into position, if anything, and how do you know it is aligned properly? Thanks in advance for all your help!!

[@shelbydogg]

Samuel Qassom When you put your belt on, you should have aligned the pointer on the crank and block to top dead center and the top pulley has lines that line up with the head. Look it up on youtube or a sevice manual. They all show you where the marks should be. Mine would start then die a few seconds later. I knew the marks were dead on when I put it back together. When it died the next day, I rotated the crank to top-dead-center, looked at the top pulley, and the marks were not aligned anymore. I loosened the belt tensioner. moved the cam gear one tooth to align the marks, then put it back together. The next day, drove it to the bank about 20 miles away, left the parking lot then it died and would not stay running. Pulled the cover again and the marks were off again. This time, I wanted to find out why. When you watch my video, you see me pushing the tensioner against spring pressure after the center bolt it tight. It should not move at all if the tensioner "stop" is rotated like I show in the video. Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.

[@samqassom]

shelbydogg First, thanks so much for the quick reply!! Helps me out a lot!! And I appreciate you taking the time to detail everything. My problem is, I made sure I was TDC on the cam gear and pulley when I took the belt off... But not so much when I put them back on. I looked at the top and that was still TDC, so I assumed the bottom was as well. I put everything back together and the car stayed on for about 2-3 seconds and died. Same thing happened the second time. I stopped trying to start it because I assumed something was off... So, I guess my question is, I didn't make sure I was TDC when tightening it down, how do I correct that?

[@shelbydogg]

Samuel Qassom Top dead center means exactly that, on the compression stroke. I use a long thin screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the crank while watching it rise then start to fall, then center that spot. You don't have to do it this way though. You should be able to line your marks up on the crank gear and cover to find it, then check your cam marks to see if they are still lined up. When you reinstall a belt, new or used, it is very easy to move a tooth or two while the belt slack is taken up. You need to do yours again, turn the crank manually at least 2 revolutions then check marks again. Keep reinstalling till it comes up right every time.

[@victorvelasco5229]

ShelbyDogg did it ever jump out of time after moving that back plate towards the stop I'm having the same issue on my 05 Honda this is my third time it jumps out of time.TIA

[@shelbydogg]

No, it never jumped out of time a third time after I found that adjustable locking stop. The way I found this, was that I could push on the belt and see the roller-tensioner still moving as if I did not tighten the bolt yet. Rotate the stop plate till it takes up the gap, then tighten the bolt and now see if the tensioner moves when you push on the belt. If it still moves, loosen the bolt then move the plate more, tighten the bolt then push the belt again.

[@rotatopoti]

I don't have a stop and my mechanic says I don't need it. He says the stop is part of the motor that a prior mechanic probably removed and forgot to put back but if the tensioner is installed closed I won't have a problem. ( in the pin position ) He also says that the only way to get the stop is to buy another block. I'm not so sure. What do you think? 04 Civic.

[@shelbydogg]

rotatopoti The stop is part of the tensioner. If he installed the tensioner with the clip installed, the stop will be locked in position to not allow the belt to jump.

[@Sounds4Everybody]

If anybody has done this, have you checked for slack the next day? It always has play when cold and after it sits for at least 30 minutes

[@shelbydogg]

The spring pressure, before tightening the bolt is enough to take up any slack. After I tighten the tensioner I usually turn the crank bolt several revolutions then check for slack again.

[@amandafortner5997]

Thanks i wus about to go to the shop

[@shelbydogg]

You're welcome. After mine jumped twice, I had to find out why it was doing it. When you get a new tensioner it comes with a clip to hold it in place. If you don't change the tensioner and just the belt, you may not know to rotate the sliding plate that keeps the tensioner tight. A new tensioner is not always needed.

[@victorvelasco5229]

Did your timming belt ever jump a tooth after u did this?What's the update.Mines was doing the same.

[@Morphz_Unlimited]

The tensioner pulleys come pre-sprung to avoid this problem or would still need to do this?

[@shelbydogg]

Antonio, a new tensioner has a spring holding it in position, that you remove after putting the belt on. But I don’t always change the water pump and tensioner every time I change a timing belt.

[@Morphz_Unlimited]

ShelbyDogg Roger that. I have an 2003 and I plan to change it all to include the camshaft and crankshaft seals next weekend. Thanks for sharing👍🏾

[@spaceexplorer6636]

Wrong info here! This is completely inaccurate. Look it up correctly because this whole procedure in video is flawed and could cause you lots of problems if t-belt jumps.

[@eastcoastmostwanted710]

Explain yourself

[@miguelruvalcaba8208]

i had the same problem fuck ....

[@cuauhtemocchavez4160]

It has a clip when is new

[@shelbydogg]

If not new, no clip.

[@MC-jf6ic]

Hey mate, I am re using my tensioner since its fairly new, do I need the clip on the tensioner to install it back?Cheers

[@shelbydogg]

Mario Carino, if you have the clip, put it on before installing the tensioner like when it was new. If you don’t have it, slide that part over before tightening down like I show in the video.

[@MC-jf6ic]

@@shelbydogg Thanks mate! Will do that.

[@MILO20121]

Thx u thx u

[@chickboy87]

did you turn the cam shaft clockwise or crankshaft to reset the timing i just installed mine but i did not use the lock pin for tensioner it might happen to me too cause i was thingking the tensioner is auto retignt 03 honda civic lx thanks

[@shelbydogg]

+chickboy87 I had loosened the tensioner, popped the belt off of the cam, then rotated the cam to the timing mark. If you left the lock pin "IN" then tightened the bolt, your belt will stay tight. I didn't know what that big pin was for and had it off when I installed mine. That is why the pulley could be pushed down, like I show in the beginning. If you can't push down against the spring and see the belt go loose, then you'll be okay. Also do not tighten the bolt too tight! I have a Honda 1.7 vtec that a prior mechanic tightened too tight and stripped the threads of the tensioner hole. Probably had a timing belt jump teeth and thought the same as me. That the bolt was not tight enough. WRONG.

[@chickboy87]

+shelbydogg you turned clockwise to get the timing mark or you turned counter clockwise im worried might hit the piston

[@chickboy87]

+shelbydogg yup i strip the tread in the hole and i used the engine mounting longer bolt to secure it and added 2 washers

[@shelbydogg6251]

+chickboy87 You try not to turn the cam too much, because the Pistons will contact the valves. You can either turn the crank at the same time or loosen all the rocker arms then adjust the valve lash later.

[@MarioCyr]

what was the condition of your old timing belt

[@shelbydogg]

Mario, it was new. If you can reach down and push the pulley to loosen the belt, and the bolt is still tight, the lock plate is in the wrong position. A New tensioner has a big clip that holds it in place during installation.

[@doublewrench69]

Does this cause a chirping noise?

[@shelbydogg]

Take off all of your belts and see if you still have the chirp. Could be a bad belt or tensioner bearing or a loose pulley.

[@doublewrench69]

ShelbyDogg I think I found the issue- the bolt behind the cam gear had backed out and was getting its head machined by the gear. Put her back in with loctite and not the only sounds are those to be expected from a 220k mile civic with a mystery LKQ engine that blew a head gasket then sat for 3 years.

[@doublewrench69]

*now the only sounds

[@1707mde]

I'm having issues setting my tensioner. I installed it like the instructions said and when I turn the motor over by hand and stop the belt is very loose. But when turning it tightens up.

[@shelbydogg6251]

You turning it by hand by the cam gear?

[@theeabster1983]

I have an 05 Honda Civic E X I ended up having stripped threads on the timing belt tensioner when I removed it. Anybody's thought on taking a hole saw and drill in through the wheel well in order to get a straight shot to the tensioner bolt hole rather than removing the air condition and lowering the motor. Just seems a whole lot easier to take a hole saw to it but I am not a mechanic and was hoping I'd get some other people's thoughts. Thanks

[@shelbydogg]

I have a 4dr civic with a 1.7vtec. Bought around 140k miles. When I changed it’s belt the tensioner bolt was also stripped. I measured how deep the hole was so I could put a longer bolt in to grab the remaining threads. While tightening, it started to strip too, so I stopped and left it. I have 203839 miles on it now so I have to decide to fix it the next time I change the belt again or sell it and let someone else deal with it. To fix it, you’ll need an angle drill and a metric helicoil kit. With everything off like you’re changing the belt, I think I can get enough tools in there to fix it. Use grease on the tap and drill bit to catch shavings. That bolt only strips because someone kept tightening the bolt because their belt kept jumping because they didn’t know about the rotation lock that my video talks about. That’s how someone screwed mine up before I bought it used.

[@BigDog50001]

Honda has a TSB out on this issue and the fix is Honda made a longer bolt for the tensioner.

[@shelbydogg]

Big Dog50001 Automotive, thanks for the tip, but once whole front section is stripped a longer bolt probably only gave me another 1/4” to pull it tight. This little section easily strips too when torqued down to hold the tensioner. I put in a fully threaded bolt, which bottomed into the cover. I then used a lock washer and nut to lock it down in front. This has worked for thousands of miles but to get the proper torque on it will eventually require a helicoil. The factory bolt was long enough as long as somebody doesn’t over tighten it for a problem that my video corrects.

[@theeabster1983]

ShelbyDogg I use the standard size bolt that came with the timing belt kit. not a longer one . I figured it would be a bad idea to drill a hole any deeper my luck I would have oil running out of the tensioner bolt hole if I did. So I did have to use a flat washer and a lock washer. the Helicoil did take up some room in the back but the two washers took up the space. But I was referring actually getting to the pulley bolt whole to drill it straight. I ended up taking a hole saw and cut a hole out in the wheel well directly in front of the timing belt tensioner pulley in order to get it straight shot to drill the threads and insert the Helicoil. After putting everything together I realized the valves were bent. So I had to remove everything,, take the head off I had the valves replaced and I put everything back together. the Helicoil held up. The car is running good. Thanks to your video LOL have a great day my man

[@shelbydogg]

the eabster, I have another video in which I had a burnt valve. I took the head off, left the intake and exh manifold on and just changed the valve and lapped it in. The crv is still running today as a spare vehicle, but driven at least 4 days s week. Check it out in my videos. I’m thinking you could have changed the bent valves out yourself.

[@shelbydogg6251]

Neil, if you have it right, you will NOT see the tensioner move if you squeeze the belt under the cam gear with your hand, after you tighten the bolt. Try moving that sliding arm to each end then you’ll see what I mean.