#02 "Icky Flicky Display" - Commodore 64 Bad PLA Repair

An acquaintance gave me their Commodore 64 to take a look at because it has an icky flicky display -- can we fix it? You bet!
Also, a full C64 keyboard cleaning teardown and a neat fix for a broken button socket -- UV-curable liquid plastic -- nice!
Oh, and a little blurb on "paper tools" -- watch, you'll see what I mean.
Ray Carlsen's 'CMB Repair Information": personalpages.t...
The "Chips and Common Symptoms" documents are located on Ray Carlsen's website. Here are the direct links:
C64 - personalpages.t...
C64C - personalpages.t...
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#MindFlareRetro #C64 #PLA #Repair

[@joederr8010]

A HUGE thank you for posting the Commodore 64 repair document and troubleshooting links to Ray Carlsen's website! Another great video!

[@MindFlareRetro]

And a HUGE thank you for watching and commenting. 😊

[@joederr8010]

@@MindFlareRetro of course! I found you via a mention from another channel and I looked you up and started watching immediately. Love your channel!

[@axemanracing6222]

1:31 Man, that's how memories return. Back then, a classmate invited me to check out some new games. As he turned on his C64, it had the same issue. My very first thinking was "wow, what did he do to his c64 to look this cool at start up?" but then we both realised that it was broken. I totally forgot that. Thank you.

[@patkelley8293]

I like your approach. I have been fixing a few Commadore 64s and finding solutions through research. I'm not an electronics guy. You really don't have to overthink most of it.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thank you. Yes, agreed, you do not have to overthink most C64 repairs, especially with all of the reference resources out there. Then, there are the other types of repairs -- not sure if you have seen this video, kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z53QZpdpm96Dgqc.

[@patkelley8293]

@@MindFlareRetro Thank you I'll check it out. I just don't have a lot of equipment or electronic knowledge. But I have been able to fix what I have using soldering iron, multimeter, research and common sense. I still have about 3 Commadore systems to fix. But it's fun and a real treat when something springs to life.

[@JanBeta]

Wow, that's some stylish orange flickering there. ;) Great video again! Love the careful editing and how you explain how things work. The timing of it all feels very "right" (something I found/find very difficult to achieve in my vids). The assembly 250425 boards are not all that nicely socketed, sadly. I have three here right now, only one of them has all the main ICs socketed. The other two only have SID and VIC socketed. I have to check out the UV glue some time. Looks convenient. Anyway, very nice job and of course big thumbs up for saving another C64! :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks again. I appreciate the positive feedback. I always feel like I'm rushing at the end to bring it all to a close. I think we are all over-sensitive to our own videos -- I don't feel a timing or pace issue with yours. Interesting about the 250425 boards -- I wonder if it varies between the different manufacturing plants. The last two I worked on had identical layouts including the sockets chips. Although, the PLA socket seen in this video is a cheaper quality; the IC did not feel to be snuggly fitted and secure.

[@JanBeta]

I read that Commodore used whatever they could get their hands on for producing their boards so they varied a lot (capacitor brands and other things, too). Maybe they only fitted sockets whenever they could get cheap ones. Oh, and they seem to always have used the simplest sockets (the ones that only make contact on one side of the IC leg) as far as I saw on the Amigas and C64s I looked at. Had a few that felt very loose/didn't make good contact.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Yes, you're right. Even that 250425 C64 with the black screen in my first video had the yellow (as in, original) VIC-20 function keys on its keyboard. Frankenstein computer building by C=.

[@officermeowmeowfuzzyface4408]

It looked like all the colors, not just orange. If you pause the video and framestep, you'll see violet, green, blue, brown, as well as orange and more. It wasn't synced to the frame so most colors got skipped in playback. Pause video with K and framestep with period/comma.

[@claudioquintanilla1471]

the "fun" part of removing the keys became breaking a piece... no need to remove keys for a cleaning that you can do with the help of a little alcohol and a small brush. You can clean the metal contacts with liquid for polishing metals and a cotton swab, and clean the conductive rubber that makes contact with a cotton swab and alcohol.

[@Ichinin]

Love that link, great resource. Was able to remove the power LED when i was tinkering as a teenager, but now as an adult i have no clue what i did back then so when i was giving my Vic 20 a coat of white paint, i just put some chewing gum over it and sprayed on :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks very much! I'm happy to hear that you found the video (and link) useful. Yeah, that power LED is a finicky thing, but your chewing gum trick was clever workaround before painting the case -- nice one!

[@awilliams1701]

Coming over from the 8-bit guy. man that could use some retro-bright! lol The keys too.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Ha, yeah, it was a tad on the yellow side.

[@povvercrazy]

Totally agree about a paper trail, I always get hold of any schematics, manuals and relevant websites even if its working.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi Brian. Thanks for commenting and thanks for subscribing! I too always gather a lot of reference material to assist with troubleshooting and, as you say, documents for hardware even if it's working. A lot of my important references are printed out. I like to be able to grab certain documents and flip to pages fast when needed. Cheers!

[@jason50146]

Hehe, just stumbled on this video. One of my C=64's does the exact same thing. Super psychedelic! I also ID'd the PLA as the likely fault. Just need to pick one up.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks for the comment. I'm a happy PLAnkton user and I do recommend it as an excellent PLA replacement. And I'm glad you found my channel among the YT noise. Hopefully, you find the time to check out my other videos too.

[@thespacemonkeyist]

I found out about you on Kijiji. It's always nice to see a master at work.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks for commenting and for the compliment. Oh yeah, Kijiji, eh? Where are you located?

[@thespacemonkeyist]

I'm located in Greektown (Chester/Danforth) area of Toronto. I was a former TPUG member for a few years after I got my C64. I used to have a fairly large retro computer collection. C64, SX64, C16, a micro TRS Coco. Unfortunately, they ended up in a landfill after a move. The retro computer market has really heated up since that time. I wish I had have known about you then. I believe you are located in Oakville (or Oshawa -- I get the O cities mixed up from time to time). My sister's husband has family in Oakville and my brother's ex lives in Burlington. Recently, I stumbled upon a Pet 2001 N series computer and an Apple II+ clone. They bring back memories from my youth -- especially the Pet 2001.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Ah. Interesting. TPUG is still around. In fact - not sure if you are aware - they host the World of Commodore every December, with demos, sellers, special guest speakers. It's fun.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Ah. Interesting. TPUG is still around. In fact - not sure if you are aware - they host the World of Commodore every December, with demos, sellers, special guest speakers. It's fun.

[@thespacemonkeyist]

You can tell an expert if Jan Beta is subscribed to you. Subscribed.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks again for your kind words and thanks for subscribing.

[@Plan-C]

Hi, Nice tip with the UV glue. Another one salvaged👌

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks very much. Yes, the UV glue is handy stuff for certain occasions.

[@onehappynegro]

i have a few spare c64 that i got for free some years ago. i'm guessing one has the pla error on it because it resembles tha same fault you describe. nice work on the zoom in the video, nothing fuzzy just darn good.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks very much for commenting and for your positive feedback. I always try to keep the visuals interesting. I'm glad you found the information useful and you can get your C64 up and running again. Hopefully you are a subscribe, as I have another PLA video in the works. Thanks again.

[@HelloMyNamesNino]

WHY.am.i.watching.this........can’t...stop...watching....

[@TheHighlander71]

Very enjoyable watch. I've not had to fix any of my commodores yet although I have one with a suspected SID problem. I might try and get my hands on one of those diagnostic cartridges.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks very much. Big fan of yours -- I don't comment much, but I am usually lurking in the background. :) Yes, the diagnostic cartridges (and the loopback harness) are most handy. I had hoped to make my own -- which started my Simple64Cart adventure that bwack just posted a video regarding -- but I ended up spending too much money on a ready-made one from a U.S. seller on eBay.

[@TheHighlander71]

I'm glad to hear you enjoy my videos. That's enough reason for me to keep making them. I really haven't looked at actually getting a diagnostic cart, but I'll be sure to tread carefully. Maybe if Hans makes one in the future, I'll get one off him :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Yes, I enjoy the calm and casual environment of your videos. Your "about quitting KZbin or not" video had me a little concerned. I don't subscribe to the big, loud flashy KZbinrs -- not my crowd. I like the people with whom I share similar interests and how everyone has a different way of communicating their passions. Anyway, that's my two cents. Yes, the Simple64Cart would be perfect for Diagnostic Rev 586220 that use in the video; the ROM image is only 8KB. I had sent bwack only the one PCB to play with, which he had to use his impressive super-genius hardware hacking skills to bodge and get working with Wizard of Wor. I had only a small number of PCBs made to play around with. I'm now hoping to see what Jan Beta and GadgetUK164 can do with them -- I sent them some test boards too.

[@TheHighlander71]

Don't worry. I'm not quitting and I'm not changing into something I don't like to watch either. I enjoy watching people who are 'real' somehow. I tend to avoid loud people when I can. Hah...what I think is quite funny is that Hans starts by doubting his own insight and then analyses the situation and comes out a winner. Great stuff. I like Jan Beta and GagdetUK too (although I don't even know his name). I'm sure they'll figure something out.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Yeah, I'm always impressed how Hans pulls a solution out of the hat. I think all the biking and snowy treks are good for the brain. Oh, I forgot to thank you for subscribing earlier. Cheers!

[@TheMrJamu]

Bad PLA strikes again! :) It's the most common chip to fail in these machines. The power led assembly can be really tricky sometimes - it can drive you nuts :D

[@MindFlareRetro]

Yeah, that plastic collet is a pain, and it's a challenge to remove without butchering it. May I ask your opinion on PLA replacements? GadgetUK seems to have had good luck with a straight-up EPROM/OTP replacement (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYWXgHWEq8eigJI), as opposed to others like the U17 PLAnkton.

[@TheMrJamu]

27C512 EPROM hack works well with rev. A and B boards. Sorry, I don't have PLAnkton , SuperPLA or any other modern PLA replacements so I can't make any comparisons...

[@MindFlareRetro]

Ah, good to know, thanks. I ordered some AT27C512R OTPs last week for testing. Sounds like a new video idea. :)

[@RavenWolfRetroTech]

Wow, I have to get me one o them UV pens!

[@MindFlareRetro]

Yes. They are super handy for specific jobs.

[@bwack]

Regarding false bad values in the diagnostic results I agree. Since the PLA is a central and integral part of the computer and other functions will not operate if the PLA fails. I must say your story telling is very tidy. I admire that. I'll give GadgetUK a msg. He loves to watch Commodore repair videoes. :) Btw, I might get an A600 and CD32 today to recap for a customer. I'll try my best to film it (and be fast because the customer wanted to stay and watch, yikes!) :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thaks very much for your kind words. Unlike you and others, I'm not that comfortable (yet) freestyling, which I actually prefer because it is like being in a classroom or lecture hall. And thanks for giving GadgetUK a heads-up; would love the input and feedback from you guys. Yes, please record the recaps if you can -- yikes is right, though, if they insist on watching over your shoulder. I have my personal A1200 dismantled ready for recapping, as well. Going with polymer caps, only because it's my Amiga.

[@francoisleveille409]

This is a problem with the color RAM or access to the color RAM which is managed by the PLA. Strictly looking at the symptoms, 3 candidates for repair: 1. The color RAM (2114),2. the 4066 CMOS switcher or 3. the PLA.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks for the info Francois. I went straight to checking the PLA with a known good one I had, plus the PLA was socketed so the IC swap was easy. I have added your other candidates to my repair journal, so will be sure to check those if I see this behaviour again. Thanks for commenting and sharing your knowledge.

[@akcesoriumpc6421]

Thank mate, i love your vids. Perfect !

[@MindFlareRetro]

AkcesoriumPC Thanks for your kinds words. I do my best. I have plans for many more Commodore repair and other related videos, I just need to find the time.

[@rootykazooty351]

3:55 I have a 250425 motherboard. But all the major chips are soldered direct to the motherboard, except for the VIC chip and the one next to it (the clock generator).

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks for commenting. Hmm, interesting. Where was your C64 manufactured? It's likely different factories assembled the main boards using slightly different processes where some would install sockets and some not. The computer in the video was made in Canada if I recall correctly. I am curious to know where yours was made. Let me know. Thanks again.

[@cbmeeks]

Great video! Please post more like this.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi. Thanks very much. I have more repair videos coming. I hope you subscribe to be notified.

[@bwack]

Watching the flicky display on the diag rom image. Kinda looks like from a movie, when systems are shutting down and all is flashing :D Will watch the movie again soon, a bit busy now. It's maybe first time I see the use of UV curable glue. Very nice. Have you also tried acetone based glue with disolved plastics in it ? Cool stuff again ! :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi. Thanks for watching -- I know you're busy. I always appreciate your feedback -- hopefully, GadgetUK will catch wind of MindFlareRetro soon -- I'd love the input from you guys, the masters. No, I haven't tried acetone-based glue; I will check that out, for sure.

[@harpap3727]

Hello! Your video is fantastic! I would like to ask you something can you tell me where i can find the diagnostic catridge for Commodore C64? Thank you!

[@RetroRecollections]

Another nice fix. Awesome job :)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks again!

[@poorman-trending]

Which directory is that Chip symptoms document in? I can’t seem to find it.

[@MindFlareRetro]

The "Chips and Common Symptoms" documents are located on Ray Carlsen's website. Here are the direct links: C64 --> personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/cbm/c64/c64-ic.txt C64C --> personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/cbm/c64/c64c-ic.txt

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

I have 2 Commodore 64 monitors and 2 Commodore 64 keyboards along with 2 different power supplies. I had a third working monitor that I sold to a gracious fellow who had some vintage games. I know one of the 2 monitors I have is non-functional. We were able to get one of the monitors working but the other one wouldn't give me any sort of picture from my C64s. However, now the other monitor is not displaying a picture either. BOTH monitors just give a blank WHITE screen if the brightness is cranked up to half or higher. I'm not sure what's wrong, power supplies, monitors, keyboards? I thought I had at least one working monitor but now it appears if both are malfunctioning. Both monitors DO produce a bit of a flicker when I switch my C64 ON. I only have 4-color monitor cables. White for audio, yellow, red, and black. I believe I am supposed to be using BLACK to the YELLOW input on the monitor, as using YELLOW to YELLOW produces no flicker. Not sure why that makes sense but there are only 3 colors on the monitor connections and 4 colors on the monitor cable. Any thoughts?

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi Blaine. Firstly, thanks for watching my video and commenting. It's always tough to diagnose from afar. MONITORS: - Make sure the brightness and contrast are not cranked to full -- full brightness and/or contrast could produce an all-white display and you might not see the C64 display - Are the monitors buzzing or humming at all? This could be a failed flyback transformer. This and any other internal CRT problems can still be serviced -- I would recommend that only a professional TV repair shop service your monitors as lethal voltages can remain present inside the unit for many hours even after it is turned off. C64 & CABLE: - Usually, the 4 plug cables output as follows... BLACK -- Luminance RED -- Chrominance YELLOW -- Composite video (combined luma and chroma) WHITE -- Audio out - Do you have a TV or old VCR with a Video In socket (a yellow RCA socket)? If so, as a test, you could plug in the yellow plug of the cable into that and see if you get any output from the C64 on the TV. The video quality would be very poor, but at least you would know if the C64 is outputting and video at all. If you get a video display then you know the issue is with the monitors. Failing all that, you have to consider that the C64 has failed chips. A bad VIC-II chip or bad logic chip at U31 can cause a white screen (usually with no borders). And, of course, if you have dead chips on the motherboard, you might have faulty power supplies sending more than 5V to the board, frying chips. I hope this helps. Good luck.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Thank you for the quick reply. Getting technical replies through KZbin is a rarity. Anyway, I ran the quick test as you suggested. I have a flat panel LCD television, so I'm not sure if that qualifies as a suitable test monitor or not, but regardless, it does have a yellow video input jack on the rear. Unfortunately, it also doubles as the green input for COMPONENT video. So basically this television has 5 RCA plugs on the rear and 2 HDMI. There is the stereo audio RCA inputs and then the 3 component video inputs, with the green component video input doubling as the yellow for traditional video input. Trying all of the input choices within the television's menu netted nothing. I tried both power supplies and both C64s. I should note that the original Commodore power supply no longer produces a red light on the C64s but the other power supply that comes from an aftermarket manufacturer does. Did my test prove anything or is my flat panel television inadequate? Thanks again.

[@MindFlareRetro]

You're welcome. I try to help out when I can, but tele-troubleshooting these old computers is tough. Well, we're assuming the yellow is actually outputting a composite signal. If so, it could be an oddball 80s signal that the contemporary TV doesn't recognize. What about plugging in something like a DVD player with video-out into the monitors just see if they display video? I'm trying to eliminate the monitors as the problem. Which monitor model(s) are they? You can also make or buy (on eBay from US, UK and Canadian sellers) a C64 cable that outputs to S-Video. That would definitely work on your TV.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

My monitors are 1701s. I know for sure that of the two monitors I have left, I was not able to produce a signal on one of them. The C64 fired up on one of them, though. The third monitor also worked and I haven't received a callback stating otherwise. Not sure that I would, I'd assume that buying 40 year old technology came with a bit of "buyer beware" included :) My television does also not have an S-video input. It's too modern. I can try hooking it directly to my VCR another time, I wish I would have done that before putting everything away. Will try again, time for sleep now. Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

I gave it another try this morning. I used coaxial cable to connect my DVD/VCR combo to my television, and then used the 4-color Commodore video cable to connect both of my C64s to the VCR's line-1 input. Still no display from either of the C64s using either power supply. Still, only the aftermarket power supply illuminates the red power light on the C64s. The original Commodore power supply doesn't produce any sort of power indicator light. I am seeing line-1 input on my television properly, it's just a blank blue screen as you would see if nothing was connected to the DVD/VCR's inputs. It also has a line-2 that was also displaying the same blue screen.

[@borismatesin]

Looks like the #1 culprit of dead C64s again. Do you ever use replacement PLAs (EEPROM or CPLD based) or do you always go for a real PLA? Also, since you might be making mini-videos, do you know how to safely remove and reattach the case labels, like the rainbow one on a breadbox or the "gray plate" one on the flatbox or 1541-IIs?

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi. Thanks for commenting. Yes, your are correct, the PLA is the #1 culprit of dead C64s. It's probably the busiest chip on the board and always runs hot, hence the increased likelihood of early failure. I have a number of spares on hand at the moment. And coincidentally, I just ordered some OTP-PROMs from a German seller on eBay last week, because I want to give a straight PLA PROM/EPROM replacement a go -- inspired by GadgetUK164 -- otherwise, I would probably just use the proven PLAnkton PLA replacement. Also, check out GadgetUK's channel for some great C64 heat sinking videos. I've started a list of potential mini-videos. Removing labels is a good idea -- consider it added to the list. :) Sadly, I've had never had a "gray plate" revision in my hands -- I assume you are referring to the very early C64 revs with the metal Commodore plate. Many of the rainbow plates can be gently pried off easily because the adhesive has dried out. I actually can one like that, or you can hit them with a shot of freeze spray before prying them off. Good material for the mini-video. Cheers!

[@borismatesin]

When I mentioned the "gray plate", I may have described it badly - I meant the plastic plate on the bottom-right corner of the C-64C flatbox.

[@MrGoatflakes]

Lol the hottest running chip, the one that suicides with heat and bad chemistry, isn't actually heat sinked? Typical Commodore I suppose, combination of win and fail in every box :P

[@Huddison]

I think my PLA chip is also bad. I'm not much of an electronics expert but I would like to have a go at repairing it myself; can it be just as easy as taking out the bad PLA chip and popping in a new one?

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hey! Thanks for commenting and subbing. Can I ask why you think your PLA is bad? Usually, if the PLA is faulty in some way, you'll see it in a big way. This is a great reference, "Pictorial C64 Fault Guide" and scroll down to "U17 (PLA)". If your PLA is faulty, it can be as easy as pulling out the old one and inserting a new one, assuming the PLA on your board is socketed. If it's not socketed then it becomes more of a challenge, safely desoldering the old one, installing a socket and the new PLA chip. Also, PLA's are getting scarce and expensive. Actually, the best modern replacement is called the PLAnkton, which runs cooler, is more robust and is about 99.9% compatible with the original.

[@Huddison]

I have the old 'Breadbin' C64 and I think the PLA is socketed, but I'll double check. Thanks for your tips, much appreciated.

[@MindFlareRetro]

I hope I have been of some help. Good luck with your C64!

[@Huddison]

@@MindFlareRetro Apologies for resurrecting this comment, but is the PLAnkton socketed? I've just ordered a C64 diagnostic cart from ebay, so I'll soon find out what my fault is

[@MindFlareRetro]

​@@Huddison No problem. The PLAnkton is a drop-in IC replacement (picture of the bottom, j.mp/2zdKs3a). It will fit in an existing PLA socket (assuming your C64 has a socketed PLA) or can be soldered directly into motherboard -- using a socket is the preferred approach, of course. Also, if you add or replace a PLA socket you may wish to use a 28-pin/2.54mm pitch "turned pin" (a.k.a. machined) DIP socket, like this j.mp/2ziAWMt -- the PLAnkton will fit much better in this type of socket. I hope this helps.

[@billmattson2017]

I have a sx64 with a white screen that I would love to have working. New video for your channel?

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi Bill. Thanks for commenting and subscribing. Usually, a white screen on an SX-64 is actually a black screen only because most people turn up the brightness on the SX-64 CRT. Having said that, the black screen can be caused by one or more of the ICs having failed. In my first video, I repaired a C64 with a black screen that was caused by a bad CPU (watch here kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIS4m5arpc92nc0). Any chance you could get your hands on a C64 Diagnostic Cartridge -- you can get them on eBay -- this might be a good start in identifying which chip or chips have failed.

[@talonfluff]

I have a problem with video out with my c64 and I can't find any case that I'm having.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hi. Thanks for watching and for commenting. It is usually difficult to diagnose C64 _no_ _video_ or _black_ _screen_ issues by email, chat, etc. What is the exact issue you are experiencing?

[@talonfluff]

@@MindFlareRetro my picture turns fuzzy outside of commodore basic. all of my televisions are getting confused and they switch to SECAM or NTSC mode when the signal should be PAL. I have no idea if this are all of my TV sets or my commodore 64 C. Mostly colors are wrong and there is a lot of ghosting. It used to work without any problems.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Hmm. Hard to say, but it might be a case where the caps in the RF Modulator need to be replaced. @GadgetUK164 did great video on this very subject about 4 years ago -- you can check out out here, kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6a2pnpqj9GEetU. Keep me posted. Are you on Twitter by chance?

[@talonfluff]

@@MindFlareRetro actually. I found out that I have really bad interferance in my power grid most of the day. when the interferance goes away (after 1 AM) my c64 works fine.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Oh, interesting. Do have RF shielding in your C64, or it this a noisy mains thing?

[@ZenEmu01]

An IC extractor works way better for removing keys.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Oh yes, I never thought of that. I do have a proper key puller now - made a world of difference. Thanks for commenting!

[@Mr_ToR]

Awesome video, thnx a lot :-)

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thank you for watching and commenting. I am happy you enjoyed the video; hopefully, it was useful to you.

[@Mr_ToR]

I have 3 C64s, an original bread bin, a C64 C with old keyboard and a C64 Aldi with old keyboard. (I like the old keyboard revisions with icons on the key front sides) The old bread bin has the black screen problem and I recently bought the diagnostic cartridge which has both versions together so your videos are very usefull :-) Now I'm thinking of ordering the diagnostic harness too, do you think it is necessary? (i think i will buy a C64G with old keyboard at some point too )

[@oldofftime]

no retrobrightening was dissapointing

[@MindFlareRetro]

Unfortunately, the owner wanted this C64 back as soon as possible, and I had already spent too much time with it, so no Retr0brighting this time around. Also, most often C64 breadbins do not fare too well when Retr0brighted -- the *beige* plastic cases tend to pit when exposed too long to hydrogen peroxide, as was the issue when I attempted an alternate method to Retro0bright a breadbin case last summer, bit.ly/2HflhTE. Thanks for commenting.

[@oldofftime]

@@MindFlareRetro Hmmm, that makes me think again about what will I do with the one I got recently... Cheers!

[@MindFlareRetro]

@@oldofftime You're welcome, and thank you for your comments.

[@1337Shockwav3]

So what was broken on that PLA?

[@MindFlareRetro]

Thanks for your question. I do not know what the specific fault was with the PLA itself only that it had partially failed in some way, and replacing it solved the the flickering text issue. I was chatting with the gentlemen who owns that C64 back in December and he said that it was still functioning normally, that being almost 10 months since the PLA was replaced.

[@MrGoatflakes]

The PLA is bad? Imagine my shock...