022: Shooting 35mm Film Panoramics in a Mamiya RB67 Medium Format Film Camera.

I use some bits of scrap to convert my RB67 film back to shoot 35mm film and then go out to take some test shots. Will anything come out? Or will it either be a fogged film or just some pictures of the ground?

[@Narsuitus]

Thanks for the video. In an ideal world, I would still use 35mm film in my RB67 220 backs to produce 24x68mm panoramic images instead of using Hasselblad Xpan or Fuji GFX panoramic cameras to produce 24x65mm images on 35mm film.

[@OriginalTLab3000]

It would be 35 x 68 mm² on 35 mm film, wouldn't it? 🤔 At least if you ignore the sprocket holes. You could also simply use 120 film to produce 35x68 mm² panoramic images in your RB67.

[@tonygreenmike]

I love the way the area around perforation also being exposed . Interesting images.

[@studioswinden]

Thanks Mike. I'm a big fan of that as well, it looks great on the physical negative itself. I had a look at your channel btw...how are you finding the R62? I've been looking at moving on from a 5d2 for 'serious' digital work, but not sure what to change up to...

[@tonygreenmike]

@@studioswinden Hi Ed, thanks so much for visiting my channel. R62 for me was like a giant leap. Nikon D200 was my first ever digital camera (I miss it, especially its CCD sensor), then I moved to Canon 60d in 2014, from 60d to R62 along with the RF135mm f 1.8 this year. I did not own a full frame body until this Feb, but I was shooting a lot with rented 5d3 bodies for weddings and other events. R62 is an absolutely fantastic camera. I don't have any complaints...it serves my purpose indeed. I will recommend it highly. As long as the number of shots achieved with the single charge of battery doesn't matter to you a lot (because the mirrorless ones consume lota power in comparison with DSLRs), you wont have any other regrets. It may not be the perfect camera "for all", but it certainly does wonders. Photographers who need a huge pixel count may find the 24mp to be not enough. Again it depends on everybody's needs. I also owned a Mamiya RB67 Pro SD with the 90mm KL lens for some years, I had to sell it due to the non availability of rolls and dearth of quality developers at my place. Its bn a pleasure connecting with you. I hope to see more of your Mamiya magic. Cheers.

[@studioswinden]

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. I'm thinking about maybe trying out an R7 if I get chance...happy with a cropped sensor having used micro four-thirds for a while...it's a question of image quality and carry-around weight for me these days. An RB67 is certainly not very portable! Have a great week.@@tonygreenmike

[@tonygreenmike]

@@studioswinden R7 is fantastic too. Cheers.

[@mikesmith-po8nd]

I have read that if you use a 220 back it will leave less space between frames, but I haven't tried it yet myself. (from the Internet, so who knows?). I don't have a 3D printer so I bought some adapters and they work OK. $4 USD per set. If you haven't tried bulk loading, it's pretty easy and saves quite a bit of money. Anyway, I thought that it was a very good first try.

[@studioswinden]

Thanks Mike. I’m keen to try bulk rolls but am put off by the possibility of ruining £70+ of film if I make a mistake opening the roll. Feels bad enough when I accidentally let light get to a £6 roll of Kentmere! 😂

[@alfonsodacevedo358]

Great experiment

[@studioswinden]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@andrewthomasblanc1307]

Thank you for this insightful experiment video, very inspiring 😊 I wonder if one could load two 35mm films in parallel (without canisters?). It would be then possible to have the whole frame covered by film with perforation included of course 😃

[@studioswinden]

Thanks...do you know what, I was kind of wondering that myself. I might have to give it a try! Watch this space 🙂

[@johnjewell219]

Hi just found your channel and have been binge watching .regarding the film if you keep your backing paper from120 film trim the end of 35mm square ,thin double sided tape the two together.back taper the paper leader where it meets the 35 it then shouldn’t slip and should help vertical alignment ,worked after a fashion on the old mamiya press camera when 120 was scarce .

[@theatyhannington]

This is a really fun video! Thank you for sharing. I think I might need to try this too. If you do get a 35mm holder printed, would you share it?

[@studioswinden]

Thanks for commenting 🙂 If I designed my own I think I’d be happy to share it for free. I think there are already several free-to-use Creative Commons 3D printing files for adapters online, so I might be tempted to use one of those rather than make my own from scratch...and only design my own if this didn’t work. Cheers 🙂

[@markburgess276]

Thanks for the video. Interesting idea but you could have the same result shooting 120 film and cropping it.

[@studioswinden]

Hi Mark, thanks for watching the video. Yes, in many ways you could get the same result by cropping 120 film (though you wouldn't get the sprocket holes) but I guess for me it's about the intention, working with a "true" panoramic format...a bit like "why shoot film when you can use digital...the end result looks mostly the same". On a practical level it's cheaper to use 35mm film than 120...you get more shots per roll and it's often less expensive to get processed by a film lab. Hope that information is helpful, and hope you'll come back to watch some more videos some time. Have a good weekend :)

[@doctorstrobe]

Hey! I have everything I need to try that too, but I was wondering how you know your roll is finished since it's not the usual length of film...

[@studioswinden]

Thanks for commenting. If i` remember correctly I knew the roll was finished just because it wouldn't wind on anymore. If I'd pulled harder on the winder it would've snapped the film. I think the counter stopped counting at 15. Once you've shot a roll you can keep manual count of the shots you've done and compare to the previous roll total. But I think the "it's not going to wind anymore as the cassette's empty" method works for me! Best of luck :)

[@massimolucinato463]

Your lightmeter is very, very fine. What is the exact name of the App? -Many thanks

[@studioswinden]

I used the free version of Lightmate (on iOS). Thanks for watching 🙂

[@timothyrenteria9527]

What light mater app are you using? Currently I use the lux app.

[@studioswinden]

Hi Timothy, thanks for commenting. I'm using the free Lightmate app. How do you find your lux one? Should I try it?

[@timothyrenteria9527]

Cool. I’ll check it out. The controls on the lux app are a little close together sliders. It’s okay. I like to try stuff out and see if I like it. I put a roll of ilford3200 35mm through my rb67 over the weekend. I’m not sure if the roll was winding. I felt tension on the take up spool, but the counter didn’t move as it usually does.

[@studioswinden]

The counter seems to only move on mine for the middle few frames whne shooting 35mm. Good luck with it - hope it turns out well!

[@lupindeweir]

Use gaffer's tape to make a mask on your ground glass. You'll like it much better.

[@studioswinden]

Thanks Mike. I don’t want to damage the ground glass or make it sticky as I’ll still be shooting 67 and 645 as well, but I’ve cut a mask out of foam and clear plastic, which I’m going to try using next time 🤞🙂

[@lupindeweir]

Cool. That should work too but the thing with gaffers tape is that it doesn't leave residue normally. Good shooting!@@studioswinden