1;200 CV-6 USS Enterprise Build Video 7

Okay! Starting to get into some PE work! This is where the fun begins for me!
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[@NorwegianModellingBench]

Great work on the bow there Ben, and thanks for the shout out 😀As you say it is a really enjoyable build but you definitely need to think ahead on this one. Regards Kenneth

[@loubrewer8228]

I believe those small chain retainers are called "snubbers"

[@zachwashburn458]

Thank you for making these video series, I love watching everything come together

[@pauloconnor5931]

Great work! And thanks for the pointers!

[@CAPNMAC82]

That fo'cs'le looks great. Now, normally there was a "wear plate" between the capstans and the hawsepipes , which would either be pained black, or treated in non-skid--but, it's probably never going to be seen on the model. Your carving on the hawse-holes in the deck was spot on (they are occasionally called "toilet bowls"). They often are cats with a cant towards the hawsepipe where it exits the ship's side through the bolster. Those compound angles are what give the anchors their rakish tilt when stowed. From memory (which could be faulty) the one reel has natural fiber line, and the other has steel wire rope--both of whihc are needed to rig paravanes or to hoist in/out anchors. (Mooring lines are usually already made up with eyes, and the like and are stowed under the forecastle deck in lockers with the rat guards and chafing gear they needed (some carriers also stowed the heaving lines--the lighter, throw-able--lines usedd to pass mooring lines down to a pier or dock. (the mooring lines were often 10-15 fathoms long and of 6-8" diameter line--not the easiest things to toss around.) Outstanding job on this.

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Good stuff! I was wondering why there wasn’t a plate under the chain. And yeah, you probably won’t see it…but we see it now 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@savaslt]

not sure if anyone wrote yet, but for removing stuff i use DSPIAE CS-PB01 Push Broach (i generaly buy bigger ends seperately for bigger parts) but this help me a lot with difficult to reach places

[@jdmodels1968]

Those turned centres for the cable reels make such a difference, SO much better than having to cut styrene rod to fit...

[@jamesstoner606]

It's looking good sir

[@perrylamb6286]

WAY, WAY cool. I love your thought process on how you constructed all of this and how you arrived at what to do when. I agree, the paint combination is great. Well done on this "short" step!

[@stephenparkes626]

Great work as always Ben don't forget to drill out the portholes

[@johannesflood5485]

Great stuff Ben, thanks for sharing your builds. Started following you just before the mighty Mo build. Your love for brass is shared and this episode is just what I needed to jump on the horse once more to get going with my 1/200 Hood with Pontos. More brass to the people and keep up the great work, verry inspiring (=

[@paulgertsch7105]

Looking great 👍

[@garynugent4400]

Really nice.... can't wait to see what's next!

[@usssaratogacv3lefevre978]

Looks so good Ben. Can't wait see weathered when its done.

[@johntreloar8203]

Nice work Ben, it's looking good already.

[@edg1754]

Great work! When I watch you do photo etch, I always learn something new.

[@davidfaltus4492]

So many fit issues on this kit. It will drive you crazy. You kind of need to work several steps ahead to get fit right. Pontos likes to jump around on their instructions, too. It's definitely a challenge to build. Just have the island and aircraft left on mine.

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Yeah I’m following the kit instructions for the order and then seeing what Pontos wants done for those sections.

[@robcates2383]

Looking cool BEN!!

[@Custerd1]

Brass is best! Very nice work, as usual. Really enjoying this.

[@michaelsommers2356]

The official term is, the "pointy end of the boat".

[@keithralston1133]

Great job. Love the colors on the hull and always like the PE.

[@paulsmodels]

Looks really nice so far... I'm plugging away on my 1/200 Iowa, and like you said, these big ship models take a long time.

[@Swellington_]

Ive thought about leaving PE pieces brass before,certain ones would certainly be an eye catcher,like those valve whels and ladders and stuff,they would look ok i suppose as just brass but probably much better painted

[@paulcorrigan649]

She looks lovely Ben.

[@stevenpiper970]

ah brass...I remember Navy bootcamp: Respect my brightwork, that's the brass and the glass, you scuff it you buff it, you smear it you clear it...good times

[@AircraftCollector4]

Hey Ben, this looks great. Love all the brass detail and those reels are outstanding. I’m curious what your masking process is like for the already painted walls when you fire up the airbrush for the brass details in this video and other situations like this. Masking complex areas like that has been super difficult for me and I’d love to see how you do it if you can show it in a future video or point me to where you maybe already have shown it. Thanks!

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Hey! So, I just painted the wall. Let it dry and they masked it off. Painted the floor. Let it dry and did my video taping. Basically I just shot the brass parts in place using a small controlled setting on my airbrush. Since the parts are all the same color as the deck, it’s no problem. You just need to be careful towards the wall area. But an airbrush, with the right settings, can be like a brush. You may end up with a tiny bit of overspray, but the colors are so similar, it doesn’t matter. And in my case, since I’m going for a semi realistic warn/used look, it totally works.

[@richardwalton7433]

Coming along nicely ben, still getting through my 1/200 missoouri lol.

[@Laura_Battleship_Row]

The photo etch looks great Ben, shame you have to paint it.

[@robertdshannon5155]

Not a wall but a bulkhead. Not a ceiling but overhead.

[@eddywells5689]

Great vid

[@stephenseligman8484]

they are called pelican hooks

[@jimchapman1524]

that hole is called a housepipe

[@jimchapman1524]

Every thing in the foxical is called some kind of animal what tou just pin in was bullfrogs

[@paulkilich4727]

It is the airplane color. Tamiya TS 32. Haze Grey, LOL

[@jefffranckowiak8911]

The top of the anchor is wrong, the alignment of the shackle is 90' off, the inside of the hawse pipes should be approximately 45' from vertical and towards the stern. But I do love the effort in the anchor details!

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

How do you explain the pictures of the anchors at the angle closer to 90 then?

[@jefffranckowiak8911]

@TheMidwestModelShop when anchors are Dropped, they are usually Walked out a distance first, prior to disengaging the wildcat, then when ordered to " let go" the brake is released and free falls to the bottom

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Okay well, you didn’t answer my question. If you look at pictures of CV-6, during WWII, the anchors are stowed as I showed in the video. That’s why I put them on the ship that way. So what is your explanation for that?

[@jefffranckowiak8911]

@TheMidwestModelShop what I was saying originally is that the anchor shackle was out of alignment, the shackle should bend the same direction as the anchor flukes. I do believe that the hawse pipe locations are off a bit, the model looks great, you did great by engraving into the hawse pipes to get the better angle for the stowed anchor position, just saying anchors don't get dropped from the housed position. I think your doing great with the model, if I can help further, let me know, not sure if that cleared it up for you?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

No worries, Jeff. I get what you’re saying now.

[@afpost]

Hawspipe

[@jimjablonski4988]

Just curious as to why you don't paint the photo etch parts before gluing them down 🤔

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

Because it looks cool for the video. That’s it. Otherwise I would paint them ahead of time and just touch up anything that needed it.

[@jimjablonski4988]

@@TheMidwestModelShop ha! Fair enough!

[@craigmorrice6032]

Love your work. What is your process for preparing, priming the PE? I always have a problem getting paint to adhere to the PE although i am getting better adhesion now im using VMS etch primer, just wondering what process and product you use.

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

My most thorough process is: clean with rubbing alcohol first. After it dries use a metal primer. If you brush it on, it works better than the stuff that’s airbrush ready. After that dries I use Mr. Surface primer. (Tamiya primer is also very good) then I apply my paint.

[@craigmorrice6032]

@TheMidwestModelShop thank you. The only process i don't do is rub it over with isopropel alcohol. Do you clean all PE and brush on etch prime before you start a build or as you need it?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

No. Only the parts that I will have to manipulate a lot or will be exposed and likely touched or big pieces where a failure of the paint would be bad. (Which sounds like a lot but in most builds is only a handful of items) Most subjects get cleaned and shot directly with enamel paint and installed. If they chip, I touch them up.

[@craigmorrice6032]

@TheMidwestModelShop thank you very much for the info. You and Kenneth at Norwegian model bench are a wealth of information.

[@ErnestoCarrasco]

I'll be building CVN-65. Where do you get your photo etch?

[@TheMidwestModelShop]

From Pontos. You can also search Amazon.

[@jimchapman1524]

those are called bull frogs ok

[@paulkilich4727]

Can't see that stuff, not really blue. Original sea gull gray. Lower body is redone Tamiya TS 32. Deck and lower deck are TS 32. Looks blue in the sun not really. LOL

[@semorebutts3613]

I'm at the exact same spot on my build. I disappointed that my pontos kit only came with 2 paravanes. there is at least 4 paravanes that go in that front section though. so I either use the kit paravanes or look online for 1/200 brass paravanes.