1:35

This is a video that looks at the different ways companies manufacture tracks for 1:35 Tiger tanks. I review Tamiya, Dragon, Academy, Rye Field Model, Friulmodelisimo, Modelkasten and AFV Club tracks.

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

It's good this video is up. It has informed as to the right types of tracks for what.

[@daltonvickers7977]

That is a lot of different kind of tracks. Great review. Thanks

[@AdamMann3D]

Yeah it is. Thank you.

[@lucabonaiti8762]

Great video as always Adam 👍🏻😁

[@AdamMann3D]

Thank you.

[@glencwilson]

Just found this video - great explanation between the different types despite being a bit old when I am watching this. The Friul ones are great. I have only done the King Tiger that has more individual parts which fora first try of these was a nightmare but the end result is great. Also I used staples rather than the supplied wire as the length is just right. Staples are a little thicker than the wire and the tracks a little stiffer but results in a great looking track. Well worth the cost.

[@glencwilson]

@aussie43 Just type 56. They are a tighter fit than the wire but the track still moves once complete trim them off and a dab of CA to fill in.

[@non-prolific135thscalemode7]

I never built a Tiger, but I assembled Friul tracks for my RSO III six years ago. I was in hospital for several weeks then, so I took the tracks and the tools I needed with me. I know it's absolutely stupid to spend around € 30.- on tracks for kit that was as cheap as € 20.-, but when I tried to put on the vinyl tracks, the mount of the rear sprocket broke. Well, I fell in love with the Friul tracks although it's quite a "bit" of work to assemble them. Here in Germany you can get the Friul tracks for a Tiger for € 32.50. If you're a real fanatic with the Tiger, I think the price is okay. Thanks for this useful video! Greetz. Jens

[@thomassutherland8020]

When I use Fruil tracks for a Tiger or Panther instead of using the wire pins. I use staples. Flatten one side so it looks like an L .The staples are square a friction holds the in place. I've found that drilling the holes out is extremely rare, but it doesn't hurt to have a pin vise handy. On the final staple, I don't cut the L off since the pins go in towards the center of the tank. That way you can remove them if you need to. But that's up to you.

[@Silnius]

With all the track sets on the market I keep with Fruilmodel. rugged,durable very accurate and finally once you get the hang of how to make them quickly, you can make one side in an hour. Put on a tv show or listen to music and go at it. thanks for the video.

[@AdamMann3D]

That seems to be the common opinion. I look forward to building them i'm just very limited in model time. Maybe i'll do a few a night.

[@Silnius]

+Adam Mann hey, work it out as you like, it works best to make sections and then connect them. I have never hesitated twice about buying those sets..If you want to speed dry them after applying a wash with a hair dryer,don't put the settings on the hottest. If you manage to deform the tracks you can be in trouble.BUT!, they can take a lot of beatings.

[@AdamMann3D]

Silnius Kruger Have you ever used burnishing fluid or do you just paint?

[@Silnius]

+Adam Mann hey, yes I have. You can also put the tracks in Vinegar. If you put the tracks in Vinegar then you leave to dry and apply a primer over it. The Vinegar removes the grease agent as does the *blackening solution*. I have never had 100% percent results with the blackening solutions like AK Interactives stuff from Uschi van der Rosten. After the Blackening Agent or Vinegar has dried I just over spray the tracks in black from Tamiya with a airbrush.It is a tough paint because of the lacquer based paints. After the tracks have completely dried in black you can airbrush them in whatever color you like.

[@JoseDanielMassterOzymandiasMx]

It's a great guide!! Thanks for sharing

[@AdamMann3D]

Thanks Jose.

[@waynecoulter6761]

For friul tracks use standard staples with one leg bent straight... works like a charm

[@andrewcullen8635]

Hello, With the Friul metal tracks some people ditch the "Wire" and buy solid metal rod of the correct diameter which makes it a lot easier. Here in the U.K We only get them advertised from Australia (Unless we are very lucky and someone is selling privately). There is another one called Master Club (Again order from Australia) The links are the same but you get 2 Resin "Pins" which you insert 1 in each side to make the connection instead of the "Wire" in the Friul ones. They are a little bit more than the Friul I have always said that I want to make 1 model with the metal tracks now I have to decide which. Good review

[@chrisdavis3642]

That's what I've been doing too

[@thecreator185]

Very informative, thanks for the video.

[@AdamMann3D]

+The Creator Thanks very much.

[@robambrose4199]

Thanks for giving us such an excellent video for free. It's a shame I don't have any tiger tanks though lol. I'm trying to figure out how to motorise the Panther tanks I have, but need to order more gears, or an easier tank that will fit geared motors.

[@pglx68]

Very useful. Thank you.

[@markpearce9619]

Great, and really useful vid, Adam ... (as your most informative vids always are!) and applicable to most armour, not just Tigers (at least for this armour newbie, anyways!) No thanks to you (!!) already adding plenty of Dragon (and a few modern armour Mengs) to my stash, and have just doubled the GDP of Poland (!!) by buying a bunch of Friul tracks for them. They (the Friul tracks) seems to be the 'gold standard' to go for. Just hope that we both get along OK with them when we take the plunge. KUTGW, as always, Adam, and keep them Dragon armour build and kit reviews coming. Just wish I could find me my very first Tiger (#6383) at a half decent price on this side of the pond. Cheers, & have a great weekend, Mark

[@AdamMann3D]

I'm very glad to share the knowledge i've gained through my obsession.

[@spitfire3280]

Also the R-Model tracks from CN seem to be available for a range of 1/35 vehicles, include CNC brass pins that just slide in and look practically identical to Fruilmodel. Cheaper too...

[@bushranger900]

Thanks Adam very helpfull

[@Eoin6661]

Good vid, I agree on the AFV Club, got some nice results with them, good price, but they are very flimsy. Friul tracks fly together when you get going, durable, repairable and beautiful sag!!!.....but can be heavy (white metal) and strain some kit suspensions. Two other metal tracks are also Spade (Chinese) and Karaya (Polish) both similar to Friul but Karaya is more of a lighter zinc alloy. Some of the nicest are the resin masterclub (also moved into the metal link versions now) or WWII Productions from Australia, but they're like rocking horse shit to find.

[@AdamMann3D]

Thanks for the info, i didn't know about some of those. I've seen WWII productions stuff on ebay for quite a price, but heard they were the best.

[@HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

great show of most tracks that are out there, wow you really got into it:) i bought aftermarket tracks only twice which were from friul for my hobby boss toldi tank (friul is from hungary by the way) and from trumpeter for my e100. i could learn from your video for sure, as i´m not knowledgeable on the field.

[@AdamMann3D]

Thanks very much Michael. I'm doing the modelkasten ones now and i think you'd hate it.

[@HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

Adam Mann i most likely do :) had to deal with similar stuff on my amusing hobby neubaufahrzeug. left the pins off and glued the links together the normal way, because i wanted to apply some mud anyway.

[@AdamMann3D]

Hamilkar Barkas Yep that's exactly what they're like. The workable part with the pins is fine, it's the gluing on 400 guide teeth.

[@IanEBBM]

Informative!! nice!

[@AdamMann3D]

+Ian E (That 1 35th Scale Show) Thanks brother. A little esoteric I know, but it's my kind of nonsense.

[@MrGameengineer]

I have a set of friulmodel ATL-06 tracks ready to build for my Dragon #6700 Mid-Tiger I and have a question. Is it better to burnish them or just paint?

[@Tony196180]

Don't really care for the DS tracks my self, It is a great idea but I will stick with the Modelkasten tracks. and maybe a fruil setevery now and then, The AFV ones seem a little tough to build, but they are not $30.00 + dollars ether , Great info on this video, I really enjoyed it. :)

[@mikegregory8353]

Great video. I’m just starting modelling again having stopped in 1973! Love the detail people go to for authenticity. I’m sitting here building up the links on the Hobby Boss 1/16 Tiger. Now I see the horns don’t have holes😱. Am I going to have to drill holes in every singe tooth horn? That’s 360 holes! Anyone else build this kit?

[@andrewcullen8635]

With the Fruilmodel tracks if you hold one link it will have a wider side that goes outside the thinner side when connected, The thinner side you need to drill right the way through, It is the wider side you need to get the drill to just touch the furthest part, Burnishing gives a etching so if you want the shiny raised ridges you just light wet and dry with flat board, I burnished mine for 4 hours after clean up and drilling. I found that I did need to run the drill through again when they dried. The Metal Club ones are very similar price to Fruilmodel but not the selection, I would use metal if the tank has upper rollers as they sit down naturally under the weight

[@panzer501xx]

very good video thank you

[@claytonmcclain182]

cool review, your good. hint for "friulm" track go buy Christmas tree hooks, size of hole, u should get three out of one wire. after cut it acts like a drill and it cleans the hole out, just spin it a little. "this is much better than there lame wire". tracks work great after that. but u will still need a band aid on your thumb, when u do this, it helps stopping the wire from gouging into your thumb. hope this helps and not to long, sorry.

[@AdamMann3D]

I will try that. Thanks.

[@silvestersze4411]

The early tracks were stretched and tight coz 70’s vinyl ones were for motorization purpose. That’s my opinion.

[@PanzerLoli916]

could you do a review on the Academy tiger 1 early with interior

[@hgbarnes1584]

Excellent reviews!!! How about your thoughts about the Rye Field and buying upgrades. Second which would you buy and then get all the upgrades? Once again excellent!

[@AdamMann3D]

I've reviewed all of Rye Field's model kits here on the channel as they came out. I really enjoyed 5003 the early with interior. I think their kits are really solid.

[@acebatau]

Nice video, mate. Thanks, but I was wondering if Rye tracks would fit Dragon Tiger I sprockets? Thanks

[@AdamMann3D]

They are designed quite differently on the reverse side because Rye Field molds the final drive gear. So not really.

[@acebatau]

Adam Mann Thanks

[@konradpaszkowski530]

Adam Mann Please note that Fruit Tracks are from Hungary not Poland.

[@lunhil12]

I got the Friul tracks for an Academy Tiger2 and found them very easy to build. You just need to keep the brass wire straight or use the appropriate diameter dressmakers pin or music wire for an even easier buildup.

[@AdamMann3D]

+lunhil12 I did the early set and used the brass from the box, just bent the ends to keep them in with a spring like tension.

[@lunhil12]

+Adam Mann good idea bending the ends, I will do that next time I use them. I used a spot of CA on each pin end then lightly sanded the inner edge of the track to clean everything up. I had bought a set from Hobbyboss but they were too short in length. Tried casting some to fill in the gap but gave up and bought the Friuls half price on EBay.

[@AdamMann3D]

lunhil12 How I was taught you push the pin in until it hits the other end. leave like a MM or 2 extra hanging out and trim it there. Pull it back out a bit and bend say 1/6 or even less of the pin at a 30 degree angle. Then the tricky part, which is jam it back in so that the now angled part is putting pressure on the inside of the track link. I learned this from a very good modeler at my local club. I'm going to make a video once I master it. Oddly though, I really like the modelkasten set I just made. I may stick with those. may more work, but beautiful when they're done.

[@MichaelGreen-dm2ov]

Hi Adam I really liked your Tiger posts and I think I understand the breakdown. All tigers had tracks with hollow guide teeth. There are 3 types of Tiger tracks Initial, Early/Mirrored, and Middle/ Late. Based on the variants the combinations would be 1. Initial Tiger with Initial tracks no Zimmerit. But can have mirrored tracks about 9 made all went to Russia. 2. DAK Tiger Early/Mirrored tracks no Zimmerit. 3.Post Initial Tiger Early/Mirrored tracks no Zimmerit. 3. Early Tiger Early/Mirrored tracks no Zimmerit. 4. Mid Tiger Middle/ Late tracks with Zimmerit with cast cupola. 5. Late Tiger Mid Tiger Middle/ Late tracks with Zimmerit with cast cupola. 6. Gruppe Fehrmann Tiger Middle/ Late tracks with Zimmerit on Hull and Early Turret with Drum Cupola and no Zimmerit. Thanks again!

[@AdamMann3D]

Only the first few initials had mirrored early tracks. I believe only the leningrad Tigers. But yeah you've got it.

[@MichaelGreen-dm2ov]

Thanks

[@19explorersport96]

Where do you shop for tools, paints, airbrush supplies, etc?

[@panzergarage7333]

Adam Great vid. Try the Fruils mate. They can be a little painful with extra drilling but they finish well. I have never found a need to even use super glue (cyanoacrylate) on them. I believe there are new tracks out called Easy Metal links that also look very good and go together even better but have not managed to get a set yet

[@AdamMann3D]

I'm doing a set of Friul right. Now and not using glue. They do go together pretty easily, really liking them which worries me, things are expensive.

[@panzergarage7333]

+Adam Mann ...Ha...they do get you hooked hey, especially the nice weight balance. They are generally about $50 here so do add up considering our kits are expensive too (Australia). I gave up trying for each model so have gone back to using Magic Track on some and even the dreaded DS Track - depending how much I like the kit I guess...It becomes a very expensive hobby otherwise. Good luck with it

[@AFV85]

How good is the late Tiger from trumpeter? Have you had a chan to look at that in your time?

[@DeerHunter308]

I think you should try more Fruili tracks. They are better as far as surface detail, but what really throws it their way for me is the weight factor that makes them always sit right. You can move the model around (like transport to contests) and not worry about the light plastic tracks "lifting" and making an unrealistic appearance.

[@AdamMann3D]

I think i'll assemble a set, well start it at least soon. I'm going to rewatch your video before i do. You just paint or burnish? I plan on just using paint.

[@DeerHunter308]

+Adam Mann Burnishing is really tricky and I have not mastered it (yet?). Recently instead of re investing in a pretty expensive 4 oz bottle of MIG blacken ( $ 12 or 16 bucks), that only does two sets of tracks - and not very well actually as it only etches the tracks, not blacken it, I bought a 16 oz bottle of Blacken liquid from Eastwood metal finishers. I mean its the same color as MIG's and although it statets that it is only for iron not aluminum, and since fruili is lead I figured WTF and I'd give it a try with the Pz III tracks I just finished for my Stug. Diluted 1/2 water I submerged the tracks in the bottom of a round jar, all coiled up and looking good. I should have sampled one link first. And diluted it more. And only did it observed. Well 24 hours later I took a look. The solution was black ! But the tracks at first looked good - black, but the solution had a black sediment at the bottom of the jar. Where I super glued the pins in it was still silver all be it a small spot on each track. Then I looked at the six protruding pins at the end. Oh it must be the other end. Nope not there either. This shit dissolved the pins ! But the track where I sealed the ends were not attacked as much. I did have to re do the six at one end (by redo I mean drilling out the remainder of the semi dissolved pins - because I have to remove some to adjust the track tension). Then I painted them any way - Floquil antique bronze. Well watch my next video to see where I explain it verbally.

[@AdamMann3D]

Martin Collmer I will watch it for sure. I know guys have said you NEED to clean the tracks first, then burnish and then assemble because CA protects the metal surface. I think fo my first go round it will be paint.

[@Yourlocaltankgirl8375]

Howre you supposed to properly paint vinyl tracks anyway. What's the original intended method before we started just painting them

[@troyfritz5857]

What paint did you use on tiger 131?

[@osya13able]

If someone was building Tunisian variant tiger 131 dragon 6820 kit What kind tracks I need. Any advice

[@ingwiefreak]

A good tip for friul tracks i use dress makers pins instead of that horrible wire,a lot faster and more easy,give it a try

[@AdamMann3D]

+mark 123 I will try that. I'm going to do a Tiger fresh from the factory with transport Friuls and modelkasten wheels soon, so I'll give it a shot on that one.

[@panasonicsamsung5867]

+mark 123 YEAP great reply, as I do use these dress makers pin. With wire it's time consuming, with the pins and small pliers you don't have to drill at all.

[@freewill51]

+mark 123 I throw the wire away and use use stainless steel 44 lb leader wire from the fishing section off of ebay. One package will do several sets.

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

Thanks for the tip Mark. I also have found my local hobby shop is starting to sell .333 nickel wire. Good for tracks and making antennae.

[@iangascoigne8231]

Andy from hobby headquarters uses staples with one side flattened which seem to work well.

[@cosocreative3497]

Hi Adam, have definitely caught the tiger bug, wanting to know about using the afv tracks, do you need to leave the guide horns off the first row so it can be connected eventually? Would it be possible for you to do a gow to with the afv workables from start to finish on one of your tigers? Regards Chris.

[@AdamMann3D]

+CoSo Creative I am going to just that on the Kursk Tiger I'm working on right now. Not sure how long it will be until the video will be done and posted though. If there's anything I can do to help you feel comfortable making them until then let me know.

[@cosocreative3497]

Hi Adam, Thanks for the offer of help. I'm currently making the 6406 kit and this is my first build, it's been a pleasure to build. It's not based on a particular historical tiger but it's going to be as close to a Normandy one as I can make. So I've got my hands on the afv tracks and started a couple of runs of six tracks but have noticed that I think I needed to leave the guide horns off the first and last tracks as it seems that it can't be attached once the g horns are glued on. Have you come across this little problem, or am I starting to become delusional from handling very small parts that sometimes tend to fly off the end of my tweezers?

[@AdamMann3D]

CoSo Creative Yes I have actually, what I do is pin down the first guide horn but not glue it. So like I'm gluing tracks 2 and 3 with the guide horns down but the first set of guide horns was just being held in by it's neighbor that was glued. That way you can glue them together when you're finished. Am I on the right track?

[@cosocreative3497]

Hi Adam, you are and I'm following.

[@eddgreen9376]

I’m glad I’m not a Tiger nut after buying one of the Tamiya kits with the 90s vinyl tracks 😂 Would hate to have to faff about with individual links!

[@griffn14]

Didn't know Steve Buscemi is into tank modelling.

[@AdamMann3D]

Sure is.

[@griffn14]

Oh, OK. :) Checked out the prices on the real tracks - about $1000 per link - ouch!

[@AdamMann3D]

Yeah, they're not cheap. I own a Panther link.

[@dracula1980]

Haha

[@Tony196180]

Just a thought on the different tracks, I have built a set of AFV Early type, to me there is a lot more clean up, mold marks on the inside that takes a lot of time, I do how ever like the way they go together, The Fruils are great but the cost if you can find them in the U.S. is between $39.00 - $46.00, The Modelkasten ones to me are a happy med point, No mold marks on the inside, they do take time to build but all of them will do that, cost that I have seen is around $32.00 a set depending on where you get them from. So the AFV is a great price $19.00 - $22.00 but to me a lot more clean up, I will stickwith the Modelkasten ones when ever possible on a Tiger I that is. D.S. tracks are out of the question as well as the magic track ones, until Dragon corrects them. This is just my humble opinion .

[@AdamMann3D]

I actually completely agree, for some reason the set of AFV mid/late i'm build now are giving me a very hard time. It's the separate guide horns that kill me on modelkasten. Friul are beautiful, just way too expensive.

[@DaveyChainZ69]

I prefer the Friulmodel tracks. The weight of track gives you a natural sag.

[@joep3465]

I hate doing individual tracks and I really want to buy the takom tiger mid production will flexible early fit ?

[@AdamMann3D]

I think the Takom Tigers don't need after market tracks.

[@joep3465]

@@AdamMann3D so there is a chance early production tracks will fit ?

[@bootoxkikka]

If you're a Tiger nut and you really are keen on building armor models, then check out the Rye Field Model kit RM5001 Tiger, (early), which comes with THE VERY BEST plastic indie links in the market. It has an easier method of adhering the opened guide horns to the links too, (albeit still time consuming). But if you're a true Tiger nut you'll actually enjoy the challenge. Metal tracks cant hold a candle to the quality of the mold on this kits indie links. But if you want to blow another hole in your wallet by buying metal or resin ones because the metal ones sag and the resin ones are crisp, well that's OK too. RFM also sell an indie track kit, (RM 5002). However I dont know if the guides are opened and if they're the same as the ones that come with the Tank kit. Have fun!

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

Have a model Tiger I DAK version early...you know the one. Want to give it a better set of tracks after a remake. Recommendations?

[@AdamMann3D]

+Gary Armstrong The old Tamiya one?

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

+Adam Mann No! I have that. But I'd sooner use it as a BB gun target. No...I have an old Italeri kit. With Pz IVs, you can kind of fake a split hatch with ausf H parts...cut it, etc. But there's no faking a Tigers hatch. The hull and turret are nice enough. But everything else must go. The newer DA Tamiya definitely deserves a rebuild. Your vids solved that idea. Cheers Adam.

[@jerryrichards8172]

By dragon DS tracks came in a plastic bag they have never been open. I took out the stash closets the other day. Inside the unopen bag there what looks to be some type of oil all over in the bag. I looked a little closer and noticed the DS tranks where nonflexable and there started snapping into pieces. Completely ruined

[@MechaNick767]

So according to what you say here, that even tho the tiger I´m building a Tunisian Initial, its still early type tracks then? I´m just asking :)

[@AdamMann3D]

yes, that's correct. Only 502 Tigers in Leningrad and some prototypes had initial tracks.

[@MechaNick767]

Thank you. :)

[@danielarnold7161]

Where's a good hobby shop to purchase assorted one piece rubber tank tracks?

[@KayserEin]

Dude, friuls for the win. They're so easy and awesome, you can cheat and make em removable. I mean, I didn't even clear out the track pin holes unless it needed it. They're the shit

[@AdamMann3D]

I actually totally agree. They're fun to build too.

[@yangjulirong1720]

KayserEin but price

[@Rorynes]

what about Masterclub Tiger tracks?

[@AdamMann3D]

I did a special video on the resin ones, I was not a fan.

[@Rorynes]

Adam Mann you mean the metal ones with the resin pins?

[@Mitch_N_Monty_get_fuked]

When i realize my tiger has solid guide horns 😪😪🥕🥕

[@powertothebauer296]

Nice Video, but i have to point out ,on a Tiger I you complain about the sag, LOL there is no sag on the Track if the track has the right Tension the track sit between the second and third road wheel and when the Track is to long , then the Track sit easy on all Road wheels,(in real you will throw your Tracks) so where is the sag? Same to Panther and TigerII

[@AdamMann3D]

www.fprado.com/armorsite/Tiger1-2002-Picz/Tiger1-131-Bovington-2004.jpg

[@powertothebauer296]

I know this Pictures ,it is correct but this you can make with every Tracks supplied with a Kit, except with Rubber Tracks, only Problem is how much work you are willing to do, i never had a problem on Tigers, Panthers with the Tracks , on other Tanks with return rollers ,that's another Story. On modern Tanks like Leo 2,M1Abrams even with the old Marder there is almost no sag in the Tracks, i haven driven the Marder Tank , and there was anyway no sag seen because of the Track Guards, And Modellers building these Tanks have it wrong, while putting the Track on with to much sag.Btw back in the old Days you never had the Information you have today, nobody can tell you it is right or not, because nobody knows it. On the other hand when People come and tell your Tank is not right build its never happen in this configuration it, example , the mid tiger has this or has this but not this is in my opinion total Bullshit, when the Materials run out of Stock and you have older Parts you will use it, What is on the Paper is different from what you have in the workshop, or in the Field you will use what is available . Have a nice Day

[@DutchModeling]

so. .... I can only build Tiger models if I'm a Tiger nut ?.... I guess I'll start selling my stash then

[@AdamMann3D]

Seb I think people can build whatever they want, i was just targeting this at nuts like myself. Also i frequently say unintentionally offensive things. It is my curse.

[@DutchModeling]

+Adam Mann lol. I am in no way offended Adam so don't worry, just thought of it as a strange thing to say especially when the title is "... for dummy's" ... so in my eyes you made the video for people who don't know things any Tigers. . Great video though

[@AdamMann3D]

DutchModeling Thank you and you're totally right. And I wasn't sure if I'd said anything super dumb, it's not unusual for me to do so.

[@hl1796]

thank Adam, i guess i will buy AFV track, since it the most easy and cheapest to get in my place, may i ask, the kit i got is www.scalemates.com/kits/academy-13287-german-tiger-i-mid-version-invasion-normandy-70th-anniversary--541376 this kit, may i ask, what type of track should i use ? early or late

[@comradeangel9215]

Due to it being a mid production tiger. use the late tracks

[@nizalmuhammad9689]

Don't forget transport track

[@powertothebauer296]

And none of the Metal Tracks is correct , for the Tiger at least,The pins on the real Track is put in from the other side, while on the hull is a device when the Track pin gets loose it gets pushed back in, until you have time to fix the Problem, If you count rivets, then count the rivets correct

[@hamm6035]

You have taken OCD to a different level. Only you and 5 other people in the world will notice whether it is an early or late tracks. I do like the metal because of the way they look overall. And when I spend $80 on a model and have hours invested in it NOBODY TOUCHES IT! NOBODY. So they are probably not going to notice if the track is of the correct year. And for 99% they wouldn't know about the road wheels either. Just my opinion.

[@kiowhatta1]

Tracks are a nightmare no matter what the option seems to be. Tamiya tracks look ok, but how friggin hard are they to fit? Then if you want the 'aftermarket' tracks they cost just as much as the model in some cases and take a lot of time just to assemble. Now that's without, priming, sanding, weathering, washing, sealing etc. Yes, I understand it's a labour of love. But some of us aren't looking to present our models at shows, we just want to build a model that's fun and when finished, you can look at and feel good about. Isn't that what it's fundamentally about? I have seen the scale model industry make vast improvements over the years, but sometimes it just goes to far. Atomisation? Pre-Shading? C'mon.

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

Kaizan better...

[@SuperKhaidar]

Хреновый обзор, раздражает

[@TheNordus]

Watching this made me unreasonably angry.

[@AdamMann3D]

Any particular reason?

[@TheNordus]

To me it seems you're telling me to stop building model kits if I like to use DS tracks or similar.

[@AdamMann3D]

I don't care if you use playdough. Knock yourself out man. My opinions are just my opinions.

[@mikebehm2359]

Adam Mann Hello! Adam I have a quick question. I'm building an Initial Tiger Tank.( Dragon). My question, Have you ever used Spade Ace metal tracks? Thank's for your time. God's speed Mike

[@AdamMann3D]

Mike Behm I have not, but a guy I know has. He says they're good. If you want to check out his review. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZC0aZd5pJ6fq8k

[@berniescheid5286]

Hey. Why don’t you open all the bags before you make the video save time and spare us all the unnecessary and annoying bag noises

[@AdamMann3D]

Are there even bags in this video? It's about tracks. Either way, i did start doing more prep. This video is like 5 years old.

[@berniescheid5286]

Did not mean to sound so negative. Love your videos and all your useful information. Am new to your channel as well. Keep up the great work. 🇨🇦