$1 Blower Motor Transistor Repair (and diagnosis): Honda CR-V

[@Jenny-xk6ir]

I am >45 yr old woman with curiosity and a tight budget. I found this video today, symptoms fit perfectly, didn't have time, experience, or equipment to test, but many sites point to the resister as the culprit. I just unscrewed the two little screws on the resistor, unplugged it, bought a new one at Advance Auto Parts for $50, and screwed it back on. It works!!! I save a lot of money and time, that's for sure. The only problem was screwing the tiny screws in a limited space, but managed with a phillips head thingy that my little wrench could turn, did it by feel. Thank you so much!

[@DanielJacques0]

Nice work!

[@stevenwilson7479]

Good job Jenny. I wish my wife could have the skills you are acquiring. I know I will encourage her! Thanks for your inspiration!

[@Toddloveful]

You rock! Also, for $2.99 for right angle screwdrivers from harbor freight can save you extra 15 minutes

[@claudemercier1869]

changer le statuer de honda 2004

[@magnum8264]

you can see with your fingertips!

[@TBooneFisher6931]

THANKYOU !! It is VERY HOT( 111F ) here in Granbury, TX and you just saved me a LOT of inconvenience and money. I have a 2003 CRV / LX and the blower fan quit yesterday. Following your video, I was able to easily fix it myself. TBoone MD EE

[@Ozymandiuus]

Yep. Sure enough a 69 cent thermal fuse (well $6.50 after shipping) saved me what would have not only been a $50 part from the dealer, but $100-200 for them to put it in. Brilliant! Thanks for the tutorial and additionally for the links to the parts.

[@princessm262]

You are a genius! My Dad is Aerospace Engineer, and I'm a Physicist, we say you are a genius. you should make more videos like this! We fixed our problem. Life Saver!

[@bonferoni6664]

Wow, thanks!

[@zoneb609]

but still you needed youtube to fix an easy diagnose?

[@ryanspears1986]

I actually own an 8th Generation Honda Civic, but it uses the exact same blower motor resistor as the one in this video. I had one burn up before, and they charged me quite a bit to replace it at the dealership. My wife drives the car now, and thanks to you, I was able to diagnose the problem when the blower stopped working yesterday.

[@bonferoni6664]

Awesome. I'm really glad this video was useful to other people.

[@leeclifton7498]

I will be working on this this weekend on my daughters 2003 CRV LX. Thank you for this video. I do appreciate it.

[@lsun800]

Thank you so much for this video. Followed your instruction, and fixed my CRV AC. The mechanic was asking for around $300 just to "trace the electric system".

[@sz3161]

Thanks! I did the $50 version, no soldering gear atm, but it worked. I actually had more trouble getting the transistor out of the car than anything else and it wasn't the screws! In the 2003 CRV (can't speak to other years) there are 2 sets of wires that have to be moved: one blue and one black housing (I believe). Here are some steps: Before unscrewing the transistor: 1. Remove the glove compartment by unscrewing the left and right base screws underneath the compartment. It should stay up since it's still latched. 2. Unlatch and then wiggle and force the drawer out. *BE CAREFUL* It doesn't want to come out. Do not break the drawer! 3. The wire couplings are attached to a metal bar. With my head size, I can barely see the top of the connector. 4. Use a flat head screwdriver and push the clip in, then push up the wire housing from below. 5. Repeat with the other wire housing. 6. Since you have the glove compartment off, unscrew the right transistor screw with a regular screw driver. The left screw is still a PITA.

[@bonferoni6664]

Cool, thanks for sharing your tips!

[@keithsurivan7584]

Great video! You saved me $200+ in repairs. I had the same symptoms with my 2003 cr-v, went to purchase a new blow motor resistor ($50) swapped it out and my fan AC works! Here's a tip if anyone has trouble removing the resistor, take the clip out first before unscrewing the module. Then wiggle the module out of place.

[@johnm.speight7983]

Now You tell me ! - joking with you but I did not, and wished I had.

[@thatsenoughreally4609]

Its great to have these type videos, it makes you far more independent and less reliant, but todays avg. Person would rather spend the money to not know how to fix something basically

[@bonferoni6664]

Agreed. Plus you spend your free time learning something instead of watching crappy TV.

[@mcrobertscat1]

Thank you so much for posting this,I also joined the CRV owner club and found a lot of useful info. today I did this same repair thanks to you guys and for $48 plus a new filter I'm back in the A/C after just paying $1899 a month ago. Great job!

[@bonferoni6664]

Sweet!

[@mirzasivic2733]

@@bonferoni6664 so my blower motor dont work for around 2 minutes after starging engine after that it start normally working…what can be a problem?

[@davidfujimoto2390]

Hi thank you for replying, I found another video that showed testing of the transistors only and that was helpful what was interesting was we realized one of the transistors was shot and ordered a new unit Ama.... and that worked for 10 min. but then also only blew on full and with NO AC I was a little worried. We returned that unit and got another and it works perfectly. Here in Los Angeles, finding a fuse is tough everyone had 10amp only and they said it didn't matter because it's the temp that blows the fuse not the amps through it. Another site (an appliance repair site) also said the amp don't matter it's the heat which made sense to me. One thing you might consider adding to your video (which is great) is to warn people to not heat the fuse up too much or they will blow the fuse before it gets installed!!! I'm a beginner so I clamped a pair of pliers on the wires before the fuse and it seemed to work. Once again, your video was a huge confidence builder for an absolute beginner dealing with car electrical. Thanks for putting the time in and making it!!! Best Dave

[@bonferoni6664]

+david fujimoto Thanks. Also, thanks for sharing your tips!

[@craigflorer4322]

I had the same problem and it was the same fuse issue. I put a temporary jumper across it for diagnosis and that was it!!!. You saved me a TON of money. THANK YOU>

[@bonferoni6664]

Glad I could help!

[@caiocaio1359]

Civic 2003 EX. The fuse shown in the video was my problem. Thanks a lot for posting it.

[@robertbehrend4676]

as an aircraft mechanic, your process is solid and the results explained very well. Thanks for the info. Rob

[@bonferoni6664]

Robert Behrend Thanks for the compliment. I thought I would combine info from a trouble shooting thread and a transistor testing thread into video format. Take care!

[@robertbehrend4676]

I bought the fuse from www.newark.com for .59 cents. I did not have to remove the fuse to test it, if the fuse is cooked there is no continuity through the fuse while still in the board. Thanks again. Rob

[@jrcvols]

Thank you for the video! I replaced the transistor module with relative ease and the problem was fixed. $50 at Autozone and about 1 hour of work.

[@bonferoni6664]

Right on!

[@trichomeboss2731]

It took a hour?

[@millardiii]

You rock sir! I paid $0.35 from my local electronics surplus store for the fuse and had it working in under an hour. The local AutoZone would have been $63.99 for their low line Duralast part (which would have taken 2 days to arrive), and the local Honda dealer wanted $118! For no great reason, I chose to spend another $1.50 and replace the transistor at the same time. The old one worked fine, but the price was cheap, the unit was already apart, and the car is 12 years old. If it blows in a week, I can always put the old one back in.

[@ronniekeates3349]

Do you happen to remember the part numbers for the resistor and the transistor? I'd much rather replace one of them than the entire unit.

[@woopimagpie]

Great video, thanks very much. I had the same fault, replacing the entire unit worked a charm. I found I could buy a complete replacement unit from eBay for $20AUD with free postage. That's around $16USD. I could have repaired the existing unit easily enough but as I didn't have the required parts on hand and my nearest electronic parts store is a bit of a drive, I decided it was just easier to replace the whole thing for 20 bucks.

[@steamerjohn9212]

Great video. I ordered a complete transistor before I saw this but this let me diagnose mine and it was indeed just the fuse. I'm now confident I ordered the right part and most likely the blower motor is ok. Thanks!

[@bonferoni6664]

I'm glad I could help, take care!

[@trungdo8481]

Hi, Thank you so much for sharing this! I had a heck of a time trying to find a tool to extract the two screws. I ended up using a small thumb ratchet with a small finger thumb wheel and a Phillips bit to remove it. I found that opening the passenger door wide and crouching outside was best for me. Putting enough pressure on the small thumb drive ratchet while turning the tool was the trick. You also had to push back the nearby wires to extract the blower resistor. Might as well change your cabin filters while you are at it? Again, a small right-angle electric driver would have made this truly a 15 minutes job. :) Thank you for helping so many others out with your video!!! TD-007

[@bonferoni6664]

TRUNG DO Yeah, it was a pain in the ass to get out of the car. I'm glad you found the video useful. Take care.

[@philliplancaster5973]

Had the same problem on my car, i'm thinking it failed because my ac was low on charge and it was the middle of summer in Texas, having the ac on all the way resulting in a heat related failure, it took the guys at the shop around 2 hours to find it, good video on the fix.

[@bonferoni6664]

+phillip lancaster thanks

[@maggiebarnard5960]

Thank you so much! I followed your instructions and sure enough had the issue you were having. You saved me a lot of money. Thanks!!! Good job!

[@bear24paw]

This didn't help me with my intermittent AC and shot HVAC display lights in my 2007 Honda Element EX, but I found it fascinating nonetheless. Smarl;y done and well explained! Thank you!

[@stevepuddlejumperpilot6062]

Man, you are a really smart guy. Thank you for uploading this.!!!

[@bonferoni6664]

I just shared info from other sources in the form of a video. Thanks for the compliment though!

[@83JustSomeGuy]

Dude, you are a life saver. I believe this is exactly my issue - same make and model.

[@bonferoni6664]

T.K. Archibald I'm glad I could help. Take care!

[@williampaul8556]

I just did this fix. Soldered the new resistor on top let the old blow one in. Easy fix a little tight getting it out but back in business.

[@witoldboguniewicz8131]

I have just confirmed this fix on my Honda Accord 2004. Thanks for the good advice!

[@bonferoni6664]

Right on!

[@smid2550]

Outstanding technical information - thanks

[@simonroberts6490]

In mid-2021 it's become hard to find the thermal fuses (which are now discontinued by the manufacturer). However, if you're in the U.S. you can buy the entire transistor unit, from rock auto dot com from about fifteen bucks. (Most of the places that do still have the thermal fuse end up costing about the same by the time you have them shipped). Meanwhile, many thanks for making this video, it helped a lot (and would have helped even more if the bad lighting part had been visible--it took me ages to realize there's a panel on the underside of the fascia, over the passenger footwell, that gives access to this stuff. I was trying to go in through the glove box! :)

[@StanStr]

The transistor, inside the module, is a a Toshiba 2SK2313, which is a MOSFET (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor). It is available for about $6 or $7. BUT, this is not the part in the module that fails. There is another part there, a 'thermal cutoff' (TCO), a fuse that fails when it gets too hot. It is available for less than a dollar. (It's interesting to note that similar self-resetting parts are available that are about the same size and may only cost a small bit more.) By the way, the TCO is most likely to open ('blow') on the hottest days in July or August. Both times it's happened to me were on hot days when the car had been sitting in the sun for a long time, and it was very hot inside. I think that if I had driven with just the fan on, no AC, for a few minutes it would have cleared out the hottest of the air and not blown the TCO. That is something to think about. On very hot days, when your vehicle has been sitting for a long time in the sun do not start it up with the AC on. Drive with just the fan on for at least a minute or two, and then turn the AC on. Please see my post, listed just under the video as an "excellent article for repair" at www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?52805-How-to-fix-AC-%28Blower%29-transistor-module for more details, an explanation of how it works and photos.

[@bonferoni6664]

Thanks for the awesome information!

[@nickbass5]

Nice post.. I'm about to pull the module out of my buddys 04 CRV and check the MOSFET and thermal fuse.. Suggestion, when soldering those thermal fuses in, it's a good idea to clip a heat sink on the leads or use a pair of needle nose pliers to draw to heat away from the fuse while soldering... I've had those thermal fuses open after soldering them in.... Thanks for the post...

[@bonferoni6664]

+Nick Lewis Good point with the heat sink. I don't think you need to, but it couldn't hurt.

[@nickbass5]

+bonfe roni Most times you don't when you have experience soldering.. It's just common practice... :)

[@ThresholdZhor]

7:03 that is a thermal fuse, it opens by amperage or heat

[@snakeo99]

Fantastic video.. Saved me a heap of time and money. Well done!

[@bonferoni6664]

+snakeo99 sweet

[@Kohlphoto1]

Just swapped out the part, but this video was very useful!

[@bonferoni6664]

sweet!

[@ryanspears1986]

Dude, you are my hero for posting this. Thank you, very much.

[@bonferoni6664]

I'm glad I could help. The real hero is stanstr at hondasuv forum for figuring this method out and posting instructions.

[@Groundzro]

Dealing with this right now. Relay good, motor new, fuses good. Must be transistor

[@johnm.speight7983]

Thanks for the help ! Very useful to me.

[@bonferoni6664]

Awesome!

[@jarvymescudi7616]

I have a question. So I changed the blower motor and resistor but it just stays at 1 speed so like when I turn it it won’t blow like it’s suppose to but I feel the cold air.

[@commodorerook3797]

Very nice, but I don't think the fuse is my problem as sometimes the blower will come on if I hit a bump. In fact, I just pounded the three controls with my fist and it came on!

[@stevenwilson7479]

maybe there is a screw loose. Ha ha. Good luck

[@katherineshea1591]

Mine too!!

[@vazquezmjorge]

My ac blower fan does the same thing did you find the problem

[@nemophin1511]

Do we have another alternative thermal fuse instead EYP-2BN109 2A?

[@kipchicoria]

Thanks for the video. For people trying to remove the screws, try accessing them through the lower part of the glove box, after removing the glove box stops.

[@bonferoni6664]

Nat Chicoria you're welcome, thanks for the tips

[@markwalsah602]

Thanks just changed the fuse and fan is working again. got it on amazon prime for 4.68

[@vroginskiy]

I have a similar issue on my 2007 Honda Accord. I got as far as identifying the transistor as the culprit (I jumped the black and black/blue wires and the fan started working). I am trying to figure out what fuse I need to use in the transistor (resistor?). The model number is Denso 077800-0930. I figure it's worth a try to save 60 dollars. Thank you for the video, I am now a subscriber!

[@bonferoni6664]

Right on!

[@halava68]

Wonder if you can tell how to get the plastic cover off to get started.

[@zoneb609]

Very skilled!

[@bonferoni6664]

thanks

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

The fuse is generic and fairly easy to find. Is there a generic replacement for the transistor? K2313 2A. I have a few of these collected from a group of guys that mostly drive Hondas. The fuse is the problem on most of them. The job it's doing is nothing special there should be a generic replacement that does the same job.

[@davidfujimoto2390]

Hi wondering if I may ask a question, I am helping a friend and I successfully replaced the fuse, but the fan is stuck on full on and there is no AC only the air blower on full power. I tried to look at the relays under the hood and in the glove box area but I can only test the low voltage since I don't have leads here. All the relays on the low voltage are at zero, however, I am wondering if the transistor itself is the problem because I didn't notice your video showed a quick test as does another video where that person said you should see resistance on 3 of the 4 terminals.... I'm not very experienced with electrical testing or soldering and I might have over heated the terminal when I was removing since i didn't know I needed a wick to remove the solder. If you can reply that would be great if not I understand. Thanks Dave

[@TheSoundmanPete]

+david fujimoto If the fan is running... the fuses and the relay that supply power to the motor are good. Check the transistor with the meter set at low ohms scale. If you see a few ohms of resistance or almost a dead short... the transistor is probably cooked. If there is no A/C you may have a problem in the controller behind the heat-A/C controls.

[@ricerocket1985]

What all has to come off on the bottom panelling to gain access to this. I have the glove box out and I can see the transistor but there is a block with a bunch of resistors or relays that are blocking my access. Thanks in advance

[@wa-oh8vr]

Hi, i have problem with a/c, Its Honda cr v 2003 the first, second and third level don't turnon, but sometimes as soon they turn on after a few minutes they turn off AND the whole a/c stops working, but when i set the a/c on the fourth level, it works fine AND It doesnt turn off, what do you think would be the problem?

[@benhurmartinni8557]

awesome!! great work...

[@bonferoni6664]

Benhur Martinni thanks

[@dennisevers7357]

I had the same issue, but instead of replacing the fuse, I soldered a piece of fuse wire across the 2 wires sticking up through the board from the fuse, this worked but, would you see a problem doing it that way? many thanks

[@luiszidane2966]

the thing is that you wont have any protection

Help help. if you pause at 0:44 and you see from power transistor the ground. That shows to chasis or battery. Does anyone know where that is? My blower motor will not work but when I ground it out on the black wire going into the power transistor everything works perfectly well. I think I am missing my ground for power transistor. any help is appreciated! 2003 element

[@bonferoni6664]

It goes to the chassis, which connects to the negative terminal also. If your blower works when you jump the black and blue/black wires at that connector, it probably means you need to buy a new transistor.

@@bonferoni6664 so i did buy a new transistor and nothing. But it works perfectly fine with both transistors if I just ground that black wire to chassis while iti s plugged into the transistor. So I think I am just going to solder on a ground to chassis at the black wire feeding into transistor. Because I cannot find that body ground for the power transistor.

[@bbeck104]

Cab you do these continuity/resistance tests with the board in place

[@dawni1861]

My A/C and heater seem to work fine but the blower intermittently stops working. Wonder what would be causing that?

[@bigtbsgmailcom]

Probably the transistor, as the resistance increases, it heats up, loses connectivity, and stops. When it cools down, you get connectivity and it starts back up, etc... Or the control module is bad, you can get one of those at a junk yard, I think the new ones are pretty expensive.

[@christinegust]

Please please please could you (or anyone!) make a better bit of video for where to find this component? That black on black segment of video is what I need to see. I just can't work out where these parts are.

[@MrNeto318]

What's the part number send where can I buy the resistor

[@rockshox519]

My crv blower motor wont turn off. How to fix it?

[@lukeyoutube147]

Any idea why my blower motor blue and white wire not getting power? fuel and relay good. motor tested working but not getting any power help !

[@bonferoni6664]

+sing pau If you know the motor works but you aren't getting power from blue/white, you have to trace it back and find where power starts. Are you getting power to the relay? Are you getting power to the fuse? If you find that you are getting power to the relay and you know the relay works, then a connector or blue/white wire is bad/shorted. Good Luck!

[@lukeyoutube147]

Yeah I changed relay and fuel still not getting power from blue/white wire but wen I connected 12v to blue/white wire it work normal but 7.5fuel blow wen I connected with 12v so I put 20 fuel but I was thking it maybe danger. So I'm guessing blue/white or connecter r bad ?

[@bonferoni6664]

I'm sorry but I don't understand what you are doing. I would recommend having a mechanic look at it.

[@DirtyFaceCapon3]

Can't get the screws out to remove the transistor.Very complicated location! What did you use to get them out?

[@bonferoni6664]

+DirtyFaceCapon3 I used a really short phillips screw driver. The also make screw drivers that are are a right angle, like allen keys. I think someone mentioned you could pull out the glove box and have better access through there. Good luck.

[@DirtyFaceCapon3]

bonfe roni I had to use an "Offset" screwdriver..Was still tedious, but it got the job done.Air blowing like new again! Thanks for the reply

[@BrockenRecord]

Hey man, I have 2001 civic and ove replaced 3 of those resistors and the blower still stops working. What can be the cause??

[@bonferoni6664]

I'm no engineer but I'm thinking maybe you have to much resistance in the circuit and it's overheating. Are you replacing the whole module or just the thermal fuse? How dirty is the cabin air filter?

[@BrockenRecord]

bonfe roni I’m replacing just the thermal fuse/resistor (I don’t know the correct name for it). But I haven’t checked the cabin filter yet, do you think that might have something to do with it?

[@taylor-sc9zx]

@@BrockenRecord hey did you get to the bottom of this? I keep blowing thermal fuses in the transistor(resistor) as well. however I find it is the resistor itself overheating even when totally detached from the rest of the system

[@shifty2755]

not changing the pollen filter would also cause the thermo fuse to break would it not? excellent video by the way. from a fellow auto electrician in England.

[@bonferoni6664]

Great point! In my case, I hadn't changed the cabin/pollen filter, I had a backpack sitting in front of the inlet, and it was about 35-37 Celsius. Since then I have replaced the filter and avoid putting my pack in the passenger floor board. Take care!

[@shifty2755]

+bonfe roni you have a new subscriber my friend.😀

[@monketlogic]

Does the thermal fuse need to be oriented in a certain direction?

[@bonferoni6664]

I don't believe so.

[@khaledaus]

Thanks for the video, Got my Fan fixed, You can replace the fuse with a 15AMP FUSE WIRE, works like new appreciate the video.

[@bonferoni6664]

Nice!

[@josephmartin2344]

I have a 2011 honda civic couple, when i change setting on blower to defrost front windshield it keeps blowing on passengers if i change setting to blow on feet it also will not change any ideals of what problem is

[@bonferoni6664]

There are small motors that open and close the ducts. It sounds like it could be the mode motor assembly. Here are links to how to fix and where to find the part (make sure the part is for your exact model of car): kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5K5q6yDhNh0qNk www.hondapartsoverstock.com/p/Honda_2011_Civic/Motor-assembly--mode/50836902/79140-SNA-A01.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla

[@StanStr]

Near the end of this video, it says "Thank you Stanstr @ HondaSuv forum", but it's not at suvforum (I think maybe crvownersclub.com used to be hondasuv.com - my post comes up in the web-archive, but otherwise the link seems to be dead). My post for this fix is atwww.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/11704-2004-crv-ac-stopped-working-replace-transistor-thermal-cutoff.html#post95877I had the same problem on both my '01 Odyssey and on my '04 CR-V, and both fixes are the same. I have some nice photos of the module taken apart showing how to replace the thermal cutoff and the MOSFETransistor. I also explain how the module a MOSFET works. Aside from all that, I think the problem is almost always with the thermal cutoff fuse. It overheats, opens and you have no AC and the blower motor doesn't work.

[@taylor-sc9zx]

I find if I run the blower motor with the transistor removed from the blower motor unit (compartment ), it keeps overheating and blowing the thermal fuse... (and main 40amp fuse cause afterwards it only works on high.

[@taylor-sc9zx]

like the metal part on the outside of the transistor heats up on its own even when exposed to open air

[@michaelvance4885]

thanks very helpful I just fix my AC

[@bonferoni6664]

Nice!!

[@Jadeli]

Hello could you please help me how many oms has the resistor? I think i have same problem many thanks

[@bonferoni6664]

Jesus Adely I don't know an exact number. If you set your multimeter for continuity you can test the fuse. If the fuse is NOT continuous it is bad. For the transistor (3 pins) you should get hundreds of ohms. You can actually test the fuse without unsoldering the board. You can also replace the whole assembly for about $50. Good luck!

[@Jadeli]

OK thanks

[@Homeybadgers]

+Jesus Adely its TCO 250VAC 2A 114C(237F) AXIAL

[@kobe0834]

ur a genius! i wonder how much u saved vs a dealer mechanic shop?

[@bonferoni6664]

+kobe0834 Thanks, I probably saved $100-150 (local mechanic rates).

[@migd2122]

where is this transistor? I cant find it for the life of me! Pulled the entire dash looking for it and i cannot find it.

[@bonferoni6664]

Under the glove box, on the left side. Look for the wire connector. Good luck!

[@migd2122]

bonfe roni I found it! Replaced it and it worked, awesome! Thank you! 🙏🏻

[@ctbale1]

79330-S5A-942 $17 from rock auto for the whole assy

[@bonferoni6664]

thanks, that's super cheap

[@oskrmegan]

very nice Thanks

[@family-car]

is it a fuse or resistor?

[@bonferoni6664]

The assembly includes a temperature fuse and a transistor (not resistor). I replaced the temperature fuse. Sometimes people will call the assembly a resistor because older cars actually used resistors.

[@ddarksymphony]

thank you :D

[@MrLatinoAmbassador]

It worked for a while and blew the transistor again and again...

[@bonferoni6664]

If you replaced the whole module and it burned up again, I think it could be you fan is working to hard. Are your cabin air filters new? I'm just guessing because I am NOT a professional mechanic. Good luck!

[@crieverytim]

i wish i was this handy. :/ i'll just replace it...

[@luiszidane2966]

did worked for you? mine is doing the same but when i started at least i get the green light in the ac dimmer ( the one for hot and cold temperature)

[@onlyoneway3829]

I just fixed my 2005 Honda crv....... I just open the transistor and put a liitle wire to connect the burned fuse..... The guy from this video opened the transistor and solder back to replaced the fuse... No need for that.......

[@boriszodov786]

thats wrong, the fuse is a temperature fuse bound to the metal cooler, if the fuse get too hot, it will disconnect the circuit, otherwise on error it can get so hot that it can cause fire

[@maddyhyde3486]

I’m so confused 😰

[@miguelgone8156]

U saved me 53 dollars dude

[@bonferoni6664]

Miguel Gone sweet

[@adrienchan4045]

has anyone commented you sound like Tom Cruise?

[@bonferoni6664]

nailed it!

[@joesno406]

Great video Give me your address and I will buy you a flash light!!

[@bonferoni6664]

Thanks, I've recently bought a Microstream USB flashlight and it's the bee's knees.