10 strange Climbing Myths

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Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 1 400
@magmidt
@magmidt 2 жыл бұрын
Get an exclusive NordVPN deal here: nordvpn.com/magmidt It's risk-free with Nord's 30-day money-back guarantee!
@MIonut-ee2xw
@MIonut-ee2xw 2 жыл бұрын
A program to do 20 rep pull in one set? I can do only 15 max.
@WaechterDerNacht
@WaechterDerNacht 2 жыл бұрын
There is also a myth that a VPN adds security... Sorry Magnus, sure it pays your wage, but what these VPN-Providers say is mostly bs. If you would want what they say, use a browser like e.g. thor. Don't forget a good firewall/antivirus though. In most cases of VPN's you might not get exactly tracked by the website you're visiting, but the provider of the VPN mostly saves the data too and probably sells it aswell...
@Jooolse
@Jooolse 2 жыл бұрын
11th myth: that VPNs actually add security for the random internet users. They don't. But they can help to watch Netflix programs only available in others countries though... :)
@karigisla
@karigisla 2 жыл бұрын
what do you do for grip strength? potential video? as response)
@esgee3829
@esgee3829 2 жыл бұрын
if #10 is true, i would like to go into a car dealership and rip my shirt off, right down to my bra, and negotiate 4000€ discount. would this work? please advise. i would like to go in on Sunday.
@UnkleMonkey18
@UnkleMonkey18 2 жыл бұрын
It's been said before, but it's worth saying again: The collabs with Pete are just so natural and fun. More Pete = more better!
@richardbradley1532
@richardbradley1532 2 жыл бұрын
I think it is because they are different but compatible athletes and of course, the obvious mutual respect.
@nickdovgi
@nickdovgi 2 жыл бұрын
@@richardbradley1532 The mutual respect is such a huge part of it imo, now a days thats the first thing I look for when I meet someone. I live by the rule that if there is no mutual respect there will be no relationship because of how important it is. It makes any relationship so much better wether thats a friendship, buisness relations or romantic relationship.
@tacitus5665
@tacitus5665 2 жыл бұрын
I don't there's much to be analyzed here, they just get along well and have a compatible sense of humour.
@EkaterinaStupinaRU
@EkaterinaStupinaRU 2 жыл бұрын
Yes!! I was smiling the whole video. So much fun
@galenmorse294
@galenmorse294 2 жыл бұрын
This is actually the first video of theirs I've seen and it felt so natural that I didn't realize it was a collab
@jackduffy8286
@jackduffy8286 2 жыл бұрын
Might be overlooked but from a graphic standpoint those bars being filled up to show how long you’re spending on each myth is so smart and cool
@Drag0nvil
@Drag0nvil Жыл бұрын
It's brilliant editing, I love it!
@hunterkoch7508
@hunterkoch7508 6 ай бұрын
Its just a way to boost engagement
@armedjoy3045
@armedjoy3045 4 ай бұрын
It lets people skip ad with him still getting paid ​@hunterkoch7508
@dianaovod7008
@dianaovod7008 4 ай бұрын
Thought y same thing!!!
@martonkortesi7739
@martonkortesi7739 2 жыл бұрын
I think the arm strength myth is only partially busted with the straight arm challenge. That was a very clever way to eliminate upper arm pull strength, but forearm grip strength still played a huge role in Pete's ability to hang onto those slopers for two minutes while he figured out the straight arm techinque.
@chrisogrady28
@chrisogrady28 2 жыл бұрын
Exactly, grip/forearm strength is vital for climbing, especially if you're heavy
@mikejungle
@mikejungle 2 жыл бұрын
It really grinds my nuggets when strong climbers say that you don't need to be strong to climb well, and that technique is the lion's share of good climbing. A base level of fitness is absolutely necessary. Even things like twisting in or flagging, you can coach someone through the entire beta of a climb, and they won't be able to execute on the coaching.
@laurenb3269
@laurenb3269 2 жыл бұрын
I agree that you do need at least some arm strength - before I started climbing I couldn't even take my full body weight on my arms on a bar or on jugs. I still have a very weak upper body and back which frustrates me when I can't make certain moves but because I had to learn to be very good at twisting and pivoting with straight arms I find I'm better at this technique now. It helps that I didn't have the option to bend my arms/pull in because I literally couldn't 😅
@KoinzellGaming
@KoinzellGaming 2 жыл бұрын
Exactly what I was thinking - you need enough grip strength to carry your weight when climbing. You will need around 40kg of grip strength as a minimum (maybe if you're 50kg or 60kgs, then 30kg+ in each hand would be ok as well, and you need endurance as well. I guess if you have sufficient grip strength and you aren't too heavy, then you could climb, though leg strength will also be crazy relevant (Because it seemed like when they were trying it out, he compensated for the lack of arm strength with legs). I'm planning to climb in the future, but first I gotta shed weight and diet sufficiently (at 95kg with grip strength of 50 in each hand the last time I tested it, for climbing I need to reach at least 80kg I think.)
@Zanajk
@Zanajk 2 жыл бұрын
@@KoinzellGaming Man if you want to climb just go climb and dont' make excuses. You are heavy and weak go for V0 or V1 on boulder or 5, 5+ on lead and 6a on good day when you are fresh. Figure out good diet and see how you progress with technic. Your power weaknes gives you force to learn proper technic as you can't compensate with pure power to pass the crux on a route - this actualy helps you to get better fundamentals of climbing :D . I know what I am saying becuase I was there :D. Don't over do it and don't go to fast to strong - tendoes don't heal that well either - sadly been there as well. Just avoide two finger / one finger pockets :D
@Michael_Schmatzberger
@Michael_Schmatzberger 2 жыл бұрын
About the Figure 4: In your video you chose holds that are matchable which makes campusing a lot easier. When i climb explicitly set Figer 4's they are almost always cross-over moves on unmatchable two-fingerpockets. On top of that, the next hold might be in a weird angle and you need to get there statically. But it's not easy to find a place where F-4 is easier when it isn't actually intended, and i think you did a good job at trying to find such a spot.
@abelboronkai448
@abelboronkai448 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah i was just going to say that its better only in very specific situations or on a long ass problem wher you know youll get tired but in these situations it can be a lot better.
@suckieduckie
@suckieduckie 2 жыл бұрын
I do remember a couple of routes where there were fingerpockets where I simply grabbed my own hand or wrist to do the campus move. Any thoughts on that versus F-4?
@clemclcl
@clemclcl 2 жыл бұрын
The figure four is also better when you need to be precise when going for tiny holds far away
@tylerhampton8307
@tylerhampton8307 2 жыл бұрын
I agree. I also think that moves in a cave with an extended roof the figure 4 at least helps make the climbing more efficient because you don't have to hold an L sit for a long period.
@Manikator
@Manikator 2 жыл бұрын
You gain a lot more reach if you put your back of the knee as high up as possible. Not just into the height of the ellbow as showed.
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
"That's like taking a big shit on the myth" had me laughing again 😂 Luckily no dump placed. Cheers for having me on again Magnus, that vid had me chuckling
@hanswoast7
@hanswoast7 2 жыл бұрын
Props for trying to sandbag anyway xD
@alexenders6839
@alexenders6839 2 жыл бұрын
Was laughing alot along you two! Super nice vibes😊
@jimwernersson7520
@jimwernersson7520 2 жыл бұрын
Super nice video, i was laughing all the way through the whole thing!
@grahamemacmullen7731
@grahamemacmullen7731 2 жыл бұрын
I think the top off for extra power might depend on the top. Doesn’t a Wide Boys t-shirt come with extra power anyway?
@bennordstrom
@bennordstrom 2 жыл бұрын
That was the best moment of the video haha!
@Drewzler
@Drewzler 2 жыл бұрын
Anybody else think it would be funny to have a "rental shoes only" pro competition? Like we just take a bunch of professional climbers and a normal bouldering comp but they can only wear rental shoes.
@marcbecker1431
@marcbecker1431 2 жыл бұрын
I vote barefoot instead. :-D
@thebacon8or99
@thebacon8or99 2 жыл бұрын
@@marcbecker1431 feet guy spotted 👀
@madiis18account
@madiis18account 2 жыл бұрын
@@marcbecker1431 Barefoot would be easier than rentals, rental shoes are a damn slip and slide
@letsgocamping88
@letsgocamping88 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus would just campus everything
@Zraknul
@Zraknul 2 жыл бұрын
Rental shoes, using feet required.
@laufsteakmodel
@laufsteakmodel 2 жыл бұрын
honestly the "brushing holds is pointless one" surprised me that people even think that. Brushing makes such an incredibly huge difference on so many climbs its not even funny. Holds get greasy so fast. The "pores" of slopers get filled up with chalk. A good brush makes so many boulders that much easier.
@totalmetaljacket789
@totalmetaljacket789 2 жыл бұрын
Those people don't even climb.
@marco_dl
@marco_dl 2 жыл бұрын
Even crimps, in the end it's always about friction. I can really feel the difference if a move is at my limit
@cedric7049
@cedric7049 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, never heard that before either. It's strange as you can really feel the difference if you actually brush the holds when you climb. Especially on slopers.
@sinister_lefty
@sinister_lefty 2 жыл бұрын
I never thought it was pointless, but I definitely didn't realize just how much of a difference it made. It was when I stopped to actually think about what the brushing was doing (clearing the "pores") that it really clicked.
@cloclo14
@cloclo14 2 жыл бұрын
If you climb V0-V1 it’s useless, so only people who are realy bad at climbing can think this way..
@manuelc5592
@manuelc5592 2 жыл бұрын
I think the main differences between soft and stiff shoes for tiny edges is the force transfer. With soft shoes you have to spend strength to keep the whole foot engaged on the hold, while with stiff shoes, the rubber itself helps staying engaged on the toe. That, plus sensitivity: as Magnus pointed out, it was painful. ^^ More sensitivity means you can feel the better placement of the foot, but you also fell the pain. So I guess in the end it comes down to whether you prefer to feel the hold, or save strength from the calf, and on what the overall style of the climb is.
@TheValinov
@TheValinov 2 жыл бұрын
the small foothold wasnt even that small AND it had a quite nice edge. compared to some stuff in our gym.... slopy lil chips with a lot of rubber on it. soft shoes have no chance on this! on slopy volumes its quite the opposite of course.
@AIQHUB
@AIQHUB 2 жыл бұрын
It depends on the rubber compound just like car tires. Thats why u drive yoour car with another rubber compound in colder temperatures. It would make sense to have shoes with different rubber compound for different temperatures.
@trashcant69
@trashcant69 2 жыл бұрын
As someone with absolute noodle arms who has also tried bouldering before: you can get away with having barely any arm strength, but if there's an overhang it's game over for me. I can do pretty much everything else out of my shoulders and legs. Another thing I've noticed is grip strength. I was able to easily complete some courses that some much stronger friends of mine couldn't do, I guess because I gripped onto these ledges like a monkey afraid of falling to it's death ((:
@ShiningDarknes
@ShiningDarknes 2 жыл бұрын
you don't need arm strength... until you need arm strength lol
@emissarygw2264
@emissarygw2264 2 жыл бұрын
I find overhangs have even a much stronger emphasis on straight arms, however because you're hanging much more weight on the arms, it increases the strength requirement of even your grip and the bigger muscles that you use when climbing with straight arms. It also introduces a huge requirement of foot technique and core strength.
@suchasreallife
@suchasreallife 2 жыл бұрын
So I’d say you don’t need it to start climbing but it helps
@NomSauce
@NomSauce 2 жыл бұрын
​@@ShiningDarknes Magnus' arm strength has been measured before, he can barely pull 10kg on a preacher curl with his dominant arm. 10kg is a weight someone can curl after ~1-2months of gym training if they keep a proper schedule, honestly it might even be faster than that, I just don't train biceps that much. Needless to say, Magnus arm strength as in tricep and bicep, is not remotely above average. His crazy strength basically comes from almost the entire upper body except for the bicep and tricep lol. Pulling strength comes from the back muscles, not the arm.
@ShiningDarknes
@ShiningDarknes 2 жыл бұрын
@@NomSauce grip strength is almost entirely forearm muscles ergo "arm strength." Grip strength unequivocally is needed for high-level climbing, ergo arm strength is needed. I never said biceps are needed or that his biceps/triceps are particularly impressive, most climbers don't have strong biceps or triceps, no stronger than average or slightly above average at least but the forearms are where most of your grip power comes from and last I checked they are part of the arms.
@TheUnknownFactor
@TheUnknownFactor 2 жыл бұрын
For the figure 4 move, you should've gone to a very high precision move. Maybe a hand jam or a single/double finger pocket. Can you campus into that? With enough attempts maybe. But you can reliably take your time and figure-4 it.
@jeanf6295
@jeanf6295 2 жыл бұрын
If you look closely at ice climbers doing figure four, they dont put their knee in their elbow, but close to the wrist. I think you lose quite a lot of reach when you do it wrong as it puts you further away from the wall and lower from the hold. Also, a figure four has the advantage of being a static move, and you could try to match a feet with the previous hand to avoid cutting lose.
@Fallenangel_85
@Fallenangel_85 Жыл бұрын
It's proven to conserve strength. If the task is to hang on one arm for a long period of time it doesn't matter how strong you are, figure 4 will always win the race.
2 жыл бұрын
I was also one of those people that didn't understand brushing, but then I was climbing in a gym that has a lot of visitors and many holds were really slippery from all the chalk and sweat. Brushing them made a huge difference and I went from totally desperate and slipping off to holding on just fine. Like you described - when hold is used often it doesn't have the original texture and traction available.
@connortremblay1259
@connortremblay1259 2 жыл бұрын
I know for myself, when I brush a hold, it's not just chalk on the hold. The surface also has skin oils and skin itself packed in there, and without even measuring how long you can hold on, you can feel the difference just by touching it. Brushing a hold, for me, has taken some routes from near impossible to fairly easy.
@jackwiegers6245
@jackwiegers6245 2 жыл бұрын
i’ve said it once and i’ll say it again. You are by far the most comfortable with pete and it makes the videos so much better
@clowdy8014
@clowdy8014 2 жыл бұрын
Stop copying comments dude, I see you do this on every magnus vid smh
@MrVannspreder
@MrVannspreder 2 жыл бұрын
@@clowdy8014 It might be a bit disingenuous, but commenting is better than not commenting for the algorithm. So I am not complaining.
@jacobfunnell65
@jacobfunnell65 2 жыл бұрын
The straight arms bit with Pete really made the "straight arms" technique thing click like no other video I've ever watched. I've just imagined I have splints on my arms like Pete and it totally works. I am climbing way more efficiently now. So crazy really, I've known this technique for years but somehow seeing someone being physically unable to bend their arms has made it all fall into place! :D
@melaniedei8196
@melaniedei8196 2 жыл бұрын
I guess the first myth really depends on the style of boulder. I'm pretty weak, like I can maybe do 1 proper pull up and 2 push ups. I can still climb quite hard on technical boulders, but there are certain moves, which are just impossible. Like campus moves, locking off, mantles...
@mathmusicandlooks
@mathmusicandlooks 2 жыл бұрын
Even mantles are (usually) quite doable when favoring technique over strength. I’m not a very strong climber, but mantles are one of my favorite things to do. 👍🏼
@linkinlinkinlinkin654
@linkinlinkinlinkin654 6 ай бұрын
there are very few problems which can only be solved with mantle though
@CalHamandi
@CalHamandi 2 жыл бұрын
I’m so glad Pete has become a consistent face in your videos. Your collabs with him always feel upbeat and natural. I also love seeing how much your climbing styles differ, even though you’re both world class climbers
@bram4808
@bram4808 2 жыл бұрын
I feel like a figure 4 is especially easier when you can't match the first hold. So it's either doing a one arm pull up campus, holding the wrist technique OR figure 4. In that scenario a figure 4 can definitely feel better + when the hold you are going for is a slot that needs precision which is easier when you can go slowly to it with a figure 4
@rasenmaher9629
@rasenmaher9629 2 жыл бұрын
Also good in roof boulders close to the ground when you can't cut loose.
@josefanon8504
@josefanon8504 2 жыл бұрын
you can also pull on your arm to help a little
@davidwright7193
@davidwright7193 2 жыл бұрын
A fig 4 is really an ice/mixed technique to create a foothold where one doesn’t exist.
@AndrewTheTransformer
@AndrewTheTransformer 2 жыл бұрын
What would be the benefit of using figure 4. It looks like the leg is hooking across the forearm making that arm work harder?
@avenger3163
@avenger3163 2 жыл бұрын
@@AndrewTheTransformer getting your body higher so that you have more reach.
@marktate2683
@marktate2683 2 жыл бұрын
Honestly love seeing how modest you are in your climbing. When you said you weren't the strongest I believe you, but you are definitely one of the most versatile and well rounded climbers I've watched imo
@TheBlackDeathBeast
@TheBlackDeathBeast 2 жыл бұрын
It would be awesome for newer climbers like me, if you could quickly explain certain climbing terms like "sandbagging" in your videos. Besides that I really love your content, please keep up the great work, you're really motivating me to climb more.
@jonathanrossddsmhs1271
@jonathanrossddsmhs1271 2 жыл бұрын
Sandbagging is giving a lower grade on a climb than other comparable routes.
@Paragonofcynicism
@Paragonofcynicism 2 жыл бұрын
Sandbagging isn't a climbing term, it's just an English slang term. Means to deliberately underperform to deceive someone about how good you are. It doesn't really apply perfectly to the concept of grading climbs. If I had to guess what they mean about sandbagging their grading I would guess they mean that you are grading a climb lower than it's actual difficulty.
@noodles9236
@noodles9236 2 жыл бұрын
@@Paragonofcynicism I mean, this is just anecdotal, but here in Canada I've heard this term very widely used in the climbing community. At least where I live, given the frequency and common understanding, I would absolutely call sandbagging a climbing term.
@talkingfish6340
@talkingfish6340 2 жыл бұрын
it's all very searchable no?
@Sylvaantye
@Sylvaantye 2 жыл бұрын
@@Paragonofcynicism but then again, no gym/boulder follows the exact same grading. Maybe (British) people are used to harder routes being graded lower🙃?
@ripapa6355
@ripapa6355 2 жыл бұрын
I learned to climb (mid 90's) in a bit of a sandbag culture and it was great. It think it comes from long history of climbing at our local crag and humility by the FA'ers who put the routes up in the 60's/70's/80's.. The reason it was great was that most crags I went to on road trips (with a few exceptions, talking to you Gunks) seemed soft. I onsighted 12a at Red Rocks on lead before I could redpoint the 12a on top rope at my local crag. I like my gym and my local crag to be a little sandbagged. Keeps you humble and allows extra psych and joy when you crush it on your road trips.
@iandonnelly6684
@iandonnelly6684 2 жыл бұрын
My gym sandbags but that's because the Dacks are the closest to us
@malcopops4
@malcopops4 2 жыл бұрын
I've always wondered if it's humility or whether it's being afraid of the scorn/viciousness which comes from accidentally overgrading it... if the objective is to grade things accurately then downgrading should be as common as upgrading because climbs are just different for different people.
@samevans4525
@samevans4525 2 жыл бұрын
Warming up the shoes is definitely a thing. In the winter I always put my shoes under the heater otw to the gym and I’ve noticed a deference not in my climbing ability but more the way my feet feel. It’s a lot less fatiguing when they are warm. Could be the grip
@kavali6320
@kavali6320 2 жыл бұрын
Contagious laughs for 28 minutes straight ;) Team Magnus / Pete is the best! Pete jumping down with his arms strapped looked sketchy.
@b3z04
@b3z04 2 жыл бұрын
I would love to see an episode of you and Pete climbing then guessing what the grade of the climb is .
@danpartain6873
@danpartain6873 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus:: I'm not that strong... Pete: Whoa whoa whoa whoa!
@JumperTheHunter
@JumperTheHunter 2 жыл бұрын
Fig 4 is way more static. While climbing with Ice Tools you don't want them to pop off the hold. While climbing with your hands you can adjust the grip while doing it with a dynamic movement.
@startfromend
@startfromend 2 жыл бұрын
True, they miscalculated the wall.
@matthiaskinateder3725
@matthiaskinateder3725 2 жыл бұрын
About the Chalk: From my experience it depends heavyly on the brand. Reasons for a chalk to be good or bad are amount of additives/production quality and amount of MgCO3 compared to the amount of MG-Hydrate. Liquid vs powder is more a question of where u want to use it in my opinion. Liquid chalk gets more between the ripples on the fingertips, that makes friction on slippery slopers worse (e.g. wooden hangbouardsloper :D ) but (maybe for the same reason) stays longer on the hands, which is why I like it for hard climbs where I can´t really spent time chalking due to being pumped.
@bobdrooples
@bobdrooples 2 жыл бұрын
Liquid chalk essentially being a non Newtonian fluid shears and displaces under compression.
@colorona8456
@colorona8456 Жыл бұрын
@@bobdrooples not it doesn't. The Mg is suspended in alcohol which evaporates, your hands are dry within a few seconds and then it is just a thin layer of Mg on your hands - nothing to do with non Newtonian fluids.
@bobdrooples
@bobdrooples Жыл бұрын
@@colorona8456 boop
@birtekristiansen8624
@birtekristiansen8624 2 жыл бұрын
You should try the ‘climbing when it’s cold makes the route easier’ myth! That one has been crammed into my head for a while and I’ve just accepted it. Curious to see if it’s actually true or not
@emissarygw2264
@emissarygw2264 2 жыл бұрын
More o2, but overall physical performance goes down when you're "cold". I guess if you can keep your muscles warm still it would probably be a benefit.
@danielshapiro4798
@danielshapiro4798 2 жыл бұрын
its been true for me, i think it could also be because i get less sweaty and my hands stay drier
@SnailHatan
@SnailHatan 2 жыл бұрын
Depends entirely on what you mean by cold. -40 C is a lot different from 0 C, which is very different from 10 C.
@SnailHatan
@SnailHatan 2 жыл бұрын
@@emissarygw2264 The O2 difference in temperatures that humans are actually climbing at is pretty negligible. It goes from 21% total oxygen in the air at 0 Celsius to 18.5% at 50 Celsius-which is a 5-6% reduction.
@emissarygw2264
@emissarygw2264 2 жыл бұрын
@@SnailHatan any effect from overall air density?
@jeremyh9033
@jeremyh9033 2 жыл бұрын
Brushing was the one thing I was 100% sure of. There have been many times where I've been climbing on a crappy sloper that I can't get a grip on either with my shoes or my hands, brushed it real good and took it from impossible to feeling very solid.
@meganwong9508
@meganwong9508 2 жыл бұрын
Great (super scientific) video! Always love to see Pete on :) Would you ever consider doing an ice climbing vid? If I heard correctly you mentioned you haven't tried it. I think it'd be really interesting to see! Also thought the story about your outdoor route climb was really cool cause it's nice to hear a little bit of that thought process behind those big projects. Thanks as always for the awesome videos!
@scherelp7480
@scherelp7480 2 жыл бұрын
that moment when magnus said 6c was kinda hard, i made an imaginary happienes jump, and was like "i can climb something kinda hard"
@thedyingmongooselol2253
@thedyingmongooselol2253 2 жыл бұрын
I Love the way you've done the timer for the segments in this video, Love It. It's a creative way of indicating it, and I didn't notice until part way through the first myth that it was an active timer. Love the videos as a whole, all of 'em. You make really great content man. Very nice, Magnus.
@nicolaserafin
@nicolaserafin 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus, you’ve the best climbing channel on KZbin and my favorite channel overall! Love from Italy
@elooouan
@elooouan 2 жыл бұрын
this is so wholesome, love from France & Canada! love to see such a nice community
@1lomi901
@1lomi901 2 жыл бұрын
About myth : When I was young, I loved sprinting and I was confident that I was 10 or 15% faster when running in the night So I do believe 'top off' is a true strategy
@tobiasleitner4594
@tobiasleitner4594 2 жыл бұрын
New year new challenge. In germany bodybuilder and fitness influencer make a challenges we're they try as many as pull ups in 1 hour. For every pull up the make they also donate 1€ for a charity organisation. As we all know, is magnus extremely strong at pull ups and i am very interested how many he can make. Maybe he reads this comment and also try the challenge by his own. When you like to see him doing this challenge give this comment a like.
@jacobstangier7528
@jacobstangier7528 2 жыл бұрын
I think it was started by Kai Pflaume and Sascha Huber if you want to look for the videos
@Prince_Luci
@Prince_Luci 2 жыл бұрын
“Vaguely busted” is a concept i think Adam Savage would be delighted by.
@Rondoteh
@Rondoteh 2 жыл бұрын
15:43 Pete is trying to find the grip from somewhere, he looks so confused there :D
@user-yz9iu3lz9o
@user-yz9iu3lz9o 2 жыл бұрын
Ha, when I started the video I went “Oh, almost half an hour, I probably will watch just a few minutes and get on with my stuff”. Half an hour later here I am! Amazing video, I enjoyed it a lot. Good job on the collab, guys.
@aronds1241
@aronds1241 2 жыл бұрын
Really love these sort of classic climbing gym video's (with a twist that is)! Also love how you put a lot of focus on the background music, it really puts in an extra dimension xD. Hope you had/have fun with the ice climbing as well, i'm looking forward to that video! Keep it up!
@bontrom8
@bontrom8 2 жыл бұрын
For the Myth of brushing the holds I felt a visceral understanding that the scrubbing motion scours off oil by much more contact with more particles of chalk, removing the oil layer. The pressure and abrasion seem to effectively sequester oil and water. This was an effective video! Thanks for making it.
@8thlvlMage
@8thlvlMage 2 жыл бұрын
The chalk and sweat fill in the surface texture of the holds, eventually making it smooth and harder to grip. You're basically filling in the surface with an oily "mud" that builds over time. Scrubbing gets the chalk out of the surface so you can grip the texture again.
@thomasbigt
@thomasbigt 2 жыл бұрын
I've only used the figure 4 move once on a climb. It is hard to set because strong guys simply campus. However, I liked how at the end of that segment they mention being tired makes a difference. You need to set a figure 4 move at the end of the route when your arms are pumped and you don't have the strength to campus. Then the figure 4 becomes useful. The one time I used it was near the end of the route when I had little strength left.
@benchris4990
@benchris4990 Жыл бұрын
The thing about the first myth is that Pete may have taken away most of his arm strength, but he still has insane grip strength from being a god climber. You would need to do this myth with someone actually weak
@nuclearpistachio
@nuclearpistachio 8 ай бұрын
that’s why he was told to do a difficult one
@IHNIWMANI
@IHNIWMANI 2 жыл бұрын
Wow, I love the dynamic between you guys. Every one of your collabs is so fun to watch!
@Nico42ke
@Nico42ke 2 жыл бұрын
Specially appreciated the straight arms experiment, I started just a few months ago and many times rely too much on arm strength and get tired quickly.
@MrYport
@MrYport 2 жыл бұрын
tbh the setup scared me. Like what if you fall wrong!
@BouchyBoy
@BouchyBoy 2 жыл бұрын
It's definitely a good experiment, but it doesn't really account for forearm/grip strength, which is certainly pretty important when pulling hard on certain holds, especially smaller ones. The experiment really only accounted for bicep-engaging arm strength. I know it's all in good fun though, and I really enjoyed the video!
@GamingVids1984
@GamingVids1984 2 жыл бұрын
Don't take anything you saw here seriously.
@chloewilliams1702
@chloewilliams1702 2 жыл бұрын
@@BouchyBoy well yes, but if you’re trying to keep your arms straight/relay more on your legs, you would still be using that grip strength to stay on the wall.
@BouchyBoy
@BouchyBoy 2 жыл бұрын
@@chloewilliams1702 That's exactly my point! Pete undoubtedly has more forearm/grip strength that 99% of the people watching these videos, so he is able to stay on the wall more easily while relying more on his legs and less on his bicep strength. So to say "strength isn't needed" isn't really accurate, since Pete still has MUCH more forearm grip strength than the average climber, and many people wouldn't even be able to grip those holds he's climbing, arms straight or not.
@andreaslodoen
@andreaslodoen 2 жыл бұрын
I like that MMA and climbing both have figure fours and kneebars
@oystercatcher943
@oystercatcher943 Жыл бұрын
That was a fun video. Love that not all myths were busted. I think I've been buying climbing shoes that might have been too tight for a long time. Its obviously especially important to have 'comfy' shoes on a multi-pitch route (unless you can take them off perhaps). I had tight indoor shoes and more comfortable outdoor shoes, but now I'm suspicious as to whether my tight shoes were really better
@AntonFomenko
@AntonFomenko 2 жыл бұрын
MythBusters vibes! 🔥
@JaketheMotorhead
@JaketheMotorhead 2 жыл бұрын
Love your vids anton!
@flubberamoebes
@flubberamoebes 2 жыл бұрын
MythBrushers
@XaviLamin
@XaviLamin 18 күн бұрын
Why does your boss hate overtime
@MrSmileyFella2
@MrSmileyFella2 2 жыл бұрын
We need more of these. Super entertaining and informative. Id definitely show this to my climbing friends
@ryangendron214
@ryangendron214 2 жыл бұрын
I just started climbing “bouldering” this year thanks to you. Always been scared of heights and this is helping me get over that. And btw I just bought my first pair of shoes scarpa dragos so much of a improvement over rentals.
@Brunnen_Gee
@Brunnen_Gee 2 жыл бұрын
Even as a layman who knows nothing about rock climbing (and only started watching videos on it yesterday) I could have told you that brushing would increase the grip. Chalk particles are very fine, the more you add to the surface you're trying to grip, the more it's filling in all the imperfections and smooths it out. It's like prepping a surface for painting, you want to lightly sand it to roughen it, increase the surface area, so that the paint can stick better.
@cbrowne1283
@cbrowne1283 2 жыл бұрын
"I'm not super strong" Bit of a head scratcher there
@nathanielvelasquez552
@nathanielvelasquez552 Жыл бұрын
i typically skip through sponsorship in videos but listening to magnus i watch every second of it, so he gets every single cent from youtube. thank you magnus for helping us all and bringing us amazing content and wholesome content at that. i speak for everyone on this you make us feel like we are there with you.
@adamurquhart407
@adamurquhart407 2 жыл бұрын
I would love to see one of these (maybe a yt short) confirming if expensive (say friction lab) chalk is better than run of the mill chalk. Then also tested against cheap chalk
@Jack-zf2hj
@Jack-zf2hj 2 жыл бұрын
Maybe I fell for marketing but I honestly feel that friction labs is LEAGUES better than any other chalk I’ve used
@ed-ey1yb
@ed-ey1yb 2 жыл бұрын
Couple of buds giggling madly about everything. It's precious!
@amirhosseini6231
@amirhosseini6231 2 жыл бұрын
Pete is the nicest guy and you two together are like two kids are playing in the backyard and enjoying their time.
@TheDroneOperator.
@TheDroneOperator. 2 жыл бұрын
I didn’t understand if any of the myths were busted or not but I enjoyed the confusion on Magnus’ face throughout the whole video hahaha
@mls01981
@mls01981 2 жыл бұрын
I wanted them to test another bit of climbing wisdom I've heard: if you're pumped, it's better to "shake it out" than "stretch it out." I'd also be curious if the theragun releases the pump faster.
@adrianobermuhlner2525
@adrianobermuhlner2525 2 жыл бұрын
I absolutely love the bar in the top left which shows the progress of each part!!
@TheAnthem88
@TheAnthem88 2 жыл бұрын
Figure four would be better from a good hold to a really bad hold because you could go static instead of dynamic. For a the tight shoe is always better question, not always, good for edges and maybe aggressive heelhooks etc. but definitely way worse on smearing and problems that need a bigger friction area like standing on volumes. Great video, much love
@Peter-fv9bj
@Peter-fv9bj 2 жыл бұрын
I love that Pete stuck to Magnus on the stiff shoe thing and how loose the test was.
@fredrichardson9761
@fredrichardson9761 2 жыл бұрын
Main reason for liquid chalk in my home gym is to keep the dust down - otherwise I'd use the regular stuff. It's also not bad for travel - you can keep it with you and be a bit discreet at gyms that aren't into chalk in general.
@GreMLinSLoveCoOkies
@GreMLinSLoveCoOkies 2 жыл бұрын
Are you talking about climbing gyms that aren't into chalk in general or just normal gyms ? Can't imagine a climbing gym that takes itself seriously, not allowing chalk ^^
@fredrichardson9761
@fredrichardson9761 2 жыл бұрын
@@GreMLinSLoveCoOkies Yeah, sorry, I meant regular gym. I like to use chalk for deadlifts. I agree - hard to imagine a climbing gym that doesn't allow chalk!
2 жыл бұрын
I agree that liquid chalk is not stickier, but its main benefit is that your hands stay dry longer. I had a project recently that had a really bad crux hold high up and when I used liquid chalk + regular chalk, my hands were nearly dry in the crux compared to just regular chalk = really sweaty hands in the crux. On routes I don't chalk up as much when I use liquid chalk prior to climbing. I dislike liquid chalk in general though, it doesn't feel as nice, needs to dry up and I get a ton of splits on my fingers as is, when I use liquid chalk I get much more. I have a nice sample as well, when climbing gyms opened again first after covid, liquid chalk was mandatory. Finger splits all day :D
@smprather
@smprather 9 ай бұрын
Guys with ripped arms talking about how strength doesn't matter.
@joshuawhinery208
@joshuawhinery208 2 жыл бұрын
"Shirt off gives YOU extra power" - False "Shirt off gives Magnus extra power" - True all DAY
@imscheck
@imscheck 2 жыл бұрын
I remember an indoor climb, where figure four really was the way to go. You came out of a roof with both hands on crimps, had to let go of your feet and reach for an angled crimp outside of the roof on an overhang. Campusing it would have blown you out of the crimp due to backwards momentum. You needed that one static.
@leaksfoos
@leaksfoos 2 жыл бұрын
Great vid, very entertaining! Took me a while to notice the progress bars behind the myth titles, they were appreciated :)
@AmirNickname
@AmirNickname 2 жыл бұрын
Pete, great job demonstrating good falling techniques!!
@carterhale4674
@carterhale4674 Жыл бұрын
I really like the bar that shows what they are talking about and is filling up. Great editorial addition
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 2 жыл бұрын
Regarding strong arms: In this case you just compensated with strong shoulders.
@TheRockerman33
@TheRockerman33 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! You should test if you can grip better with pruned skin. Apparently our skin prunes so we can grip better in the water, it would be interesting to see if that translates in climbing
@magiclife1998
@magiclife1998 2 жыл бұрын
Goodness, pruned skin and rough holds 😰
@earlgrey2130
@earlgrey2130 2 жыл бұрын
That is just asking for tears in your skin :/
@madiis18account
@madiis18account 2 жыл бұрын
skin only prunes up when its wet though, and the entire point of chalk is to dry out our hands, so it'd be had to test
@xCorvus7x
@xCorvus7x 2 жыл бұрын
Regarding the first one: You seem to forget that heavily using your arms while extended also requires them to be strong.
@badbunnyTUBE
@badbunnyTUBE 2 жыл бұрын
Would really love to see a outdoortrip with Pete and Magnus. Seperate days for bouldering and crack climbing
@ZeeLow_7
@ZeeLow_7 2 жыл бұрын
Vidéo géniale, drôle et étonnamment instructive ! Merci Magnus et Pete pour votre humour et votre bonne humeur !
@lightbrand_
@lightbrand_ 2 жыл бұрын
Ouah un commentaire en français et malgré tout magnus l’a like, surprenant
@poycixyz4614
@poycixyz4614 Ай бұрын
I love the way the video sections are marked on this channel. That bar on the top left is awesome!!!
@noahthompson9878
@noahthompson9878 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus I love you’re videos, you are such a big inspiration
@kathymurphy7217
@kathymurphy7217 Жыл бұрын
Love when you collab with Pete, such good vibes, fun and great projects/experiments. More please. 😀🤞
@georgestone8099
@georgestone8099 2 жыл бұрын
I'd like to see socks vs no socks. I am convinced it makes no difference whatsoever as long as the shoes fit.
@madiis18account
@madiis18account 2 жыл бұрын
some of the best guys at my gym wear socks, I'm inclined to agree
@jerzlikestrees2606
@jerzlikestrees2606 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Magnus, American here, I used to play sports in college and your videos have inspired me to get back into shape. Thank you brother.
@alixvolte
@alixvolte 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for cool video (always enjoying the collabs with Pete ^^) ! Regarding the figure 4, a really nice example can be found on 'Délire Onirique' in Fontainebleau by Nico Pelorson: this move allowed him to stay closer to the rock, more easily than throwing his hand (on a vertical wall).
@Print2shoot
@Print2shoot 2 жыл бұрын
I just started climbing indoors and was super excited about it. Unfortunately the antibiotic cipro has damaged my knee quite bad (I’ll find out what exactly is torn on Monday) and I’m worried I won’t be able to climb since I’ll need to be able to fall/land. I’m wondering if I can do it with a locking brace and just stick to one easier stuff to gain strength
@TinyLifeTAKEOVER
@TinyLifeTAKEOVER 2 жыл бұрын
Man I learned tons on this. Our gym just forced liquid chalk for Covid reasons and I'm hearing lots of complaints of drying hands and bad grip. I guess that makes it official!
@Jorgerally35
@Jorgerally35 2 жыл бұрын
1.-Made a video with him, creating hardest route possible 2.-Made another video, playing create hardest move possible 3.-Do you like sandbagging? - No I try not to....
@JibblyandCheese
@JibblyandCheese 2 жыл бұрын
Always love the collabs between you and Pete / the Wide Boyz!
@SabrinaUmstead
@SabrinaUmstead 9 ай бұрын
you two have the best chemistry out of anyone i've ever seen on magnus' channel ya'll are great i feel like i'm there hanging out with ya'll
@alexenders6839
@alexenders6839 2 жыл бұрын
So fun to watch you two have fun!! I've smiled so often with you two during this video because the positive atmosphere from the video is so authentic
@replitzit
@replitzit 2 жыл бұрын
I climb but never thought to watch climbing videos found this on my recommended and I love this
@flood8158
@flood8158 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus: "I'm definitely not super strong" Pete: "Woah woah woah woah woah" Magnus can only be so humble for so long until someone has to call him out for a straight up lie 🤣
@joecollins789
@joecollins789 2 жыл бұрын
the collab is great fun, but i want to point out the diting effort that went into the little timer bars for each myth! really nice touch magnus :)
@indigowolf288
@indigowolf288 2 жыл бұрын
So entertaining and an insightful vid! Thank you for this. As I have suspected for a while ... slightly comfortable shoes are no hindrance in reality. Laughed more than many of the other vids. Great job.
@impendingblessing2616
@impendingblessing2616 2 жыл бұрын
Magnus: I'm definitely not the strongest. Pete and the viewers: Woah woah woah.
@giavannipicarelli
@giavannipicarelli 2 жыл бұрын
awesome video Magnus! youre the reason i started climbing!!! thanks for the entertainment and for being such a huge inspiration!!!!
@lifeofqwerty
@lifeofqwerty 2 жыл бұрын
The picture quality is on another level! Great video!
@ianmcnulty5056
@ianmcnulty5056 2 жыл бұрын
I think slippy wooden holds for the stiff shoes miff would have been better. Personally I think a soft shoes requires really strong toes to stay on bad edges, where stiffer shoes give a little more help
@NeuroAlex
@NeuroAlex 2 жыл бұрын
Your scientific rigor and consideration of confounds is rather impressive!
@TheGalansboard
@TheGalansboard Жыл бұрын
I think Pete has never seen mythbusters 😂
@ArtemisShanks
@ArtemisShanks 2 жыл бұрын
The collabs woth Pete, Juji, Tom and Anton are my favorite videos.
@lolomat212
@lolomat212 2 жыл бұрын
I've never seen anyone climb shirtless in a gym here in germany. It feels so normal when i watch scandinavian climnbing youtubers like you, Emil or Eric, but i would never dare do it myself in my gym.
@petrl9838
@petrl9838 2 жыл бұрын
Ich bin ein furchtbarer Kletterer und war erst 7-8 mal Bouldern und selbst ich hab schon ein paar mal Leute oben ohne gesehen.
@lolomat212
@lolomat212 2 жыл бұрын
@@petrl9838 wo warst du denn so unterwegs? Ich bin regelmäßig in Niedersachsen in verschiedenen Hallen, da ist das auf jeden Fall nicht gängig.
@petrl9838
@petrl9838 2 жыл бұрын
@@lolomat212 Es ist selten, aber ab und zu sieht man halt schon mal jemanden ohne Shirt.
@holyknightthatpwns
@holyknightthatpwns 2 жыл бұрын
Where I climb in the US it's also not very common. It's probably a gym by gym, or at least regional thing.
@casey6104
@casey6104 2 жыл бұрын
The reason that particular ice climbing move is done is because the move you compared it to imparts significantly much more force into the shelf you are climbing. Which matters in ice climbing a lot more than rock climbing. Not only this, but because it is more of a static technical move, it provides a better anchor point, less shear force on your holds and eliminates the possibility that your new hand hold fails and you drop. May not matter much to most people, but this move is primarily designed for people climbing in places where you do not take unnecessary risks because you can, and many people have died from them.
@johnpap675
@johnpap675 2 жыл бұрын
Pete is such a bright personality,everyone loves him!
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