1000 Watts of solar panels back online... lessons learned

EPEVER 40 amp MPPT solar charge controller was fine. Victron energy smart solar charge controller MPPT 100/50 upgrade ! More redundancy!
Victron energy smart solar charge controller 100/50:amzn.to/3Lz0GsG
Epever 40a solar charge controller:amzn.to/3qXYvW0
Newpowa 12v 100watt monocrystalline solar panels:amzn.to/3SlicCE
Kaiweets ST120 smart pen multi meter:amzn.to/3SptHJn
Chins 12.8v 300ah LiFePO4 batteries:amzn.to/3S8Ejga
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[@Etherionix]

Very much appreciate your meticulous analysis. Thank you.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo!🤙

[@t.b.herron6182]

Just saw your video. I had the same situation several weeks ago, and I totally agree with the frustration kicking in. I did everything that you did testing and could never figure it out. I even changed out the diodes on the panel. No improvement. I finally took another look at the panel that I had determined was the problem. The same as your panel, low voltage and no amps. It turned out that one of the connections in the junction box had separated. I simple resoldered and BINGO! Back in business. I think that will turn out to be your problem also. Good luck and I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Aloha!

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for sharing this information! I'm hoping it's that easy too, and it probably be. I'm going to look in the morning at it. Appreciate your taking the time to say that. aloha 🤙

[@ronniemanuel6287]

I had the same problem, 5 minutes with a solder iron and I was back in business

[@ruzziasht349]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 it's been a year now, did you fix the panel?

[@michaelmorris1802]

I run two of those 100/50 controllers, and so far I have been super impressed with them.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Im loving it🤙

[@Leoninmiami]

Thank you so much for this update.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for stopping by! Aloha 🤙

[@PWoods-cd6tk]

Thanks for sharing your troubleshooting efforts. I have purchased nothing but Newpowa 100 watt panels (17 so far) and I thought I got a bad one the other day when I tried hooking four in series to my Bluetti DC charge enhancer and didn't realize the max voltage input was 60. I'm running three in series until I get some more parallel connectors. I started with a 100 watt, 10 amp PWM, lead acid, 1000 watt inverter system in my shed after browsing many videos including yours back in March, and now I have half of the house running on solar. I really think this is now the time to do it on your own. Thanks.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for sharing your experience with us...it helps a lot of us. aloha 🤙

[@pnowikow]

Good example of what can happen in a series string. Nice job finding it. The victron helped you diagnose it and it's a better controller anyway

[@arnoldsolof]

Thanks so much for posting the follow-up!

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for being part of the discussion here! Aloha! 🤙

[@chronobot2001]

That's a nice looking solar setup. Great work.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo! 🤙

[@andyirons7162]

Just bought the same MPPT 100/50 Controller....nice troubleshooting....at least now you have a backup MPPT controller :)

[@brushbum7508]

Good Morning ! Thanks for doing these videos. TAKE CARE..

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Hey good morning old man! I can say that since I'm even older! Mahalo for supporting the content here! How's that foot healing up? Ouch indeed ! 🤙

[@brushbum7508]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 Doing well Thank You, down to a basic large bandage & a wrap of duct tape. Didn't have to use the good silicone tape. LOL TAKE CARE..

[@theobotha1009]

I also had a problem with my panels. First thought it was the EPEVER 40 amp cc. Tested back and thought maybe solar panels. Eventually found it was a mc4 connector that had melted on the inside. Saved me a lot of money.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Sometimes takes awhile to diagnose what's going on yeah...aloha 🤙

[@Madieisacutie.]

Wow, you really took to Epever in that past video.... they are good controllers and not overpriced like Victron! I've had one running for 5 years and have two more 100/200v controllers no issues

[@roberthiggins1673]

thank you for the update, epever probably thanks you also

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

aloha 🤙

[@OffGridBasement]

That is great to hear you found what the problem is! Now you have a second CC just in case and you have a Victron! I have the 100/50 and it works great. woohoo!

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Love the big blue! aloha buddy 🤙

[@kennethwilson8633]

Don’t want to say I told you so because I didn’t but I kept thinking to flip the two panel arrays just to see but you know more about solar than me. I used to be in communication in the Army so it’s just what kind of check I would try. Still learning from you and love the videos. I think there are diodes in that cover on the panels. You might want to look at the combiner boxes for your panels that include lighting arresters they are getting really inexpensive. Have fun stay safe.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Those items are are the list, no doubt. So much to improve on. Having fun all the way...aloha 🤙

[@dan32one44]

Great information thank you 🙏

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for tuning in...aloha 🤙

[@remix381]

I had the same thing happened to me back in June. Contacted Newpowa and they shipped one right out to me after I had to send photos of the voltage readings.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Got a lot of them running out here. First one to fail. Love hearing the customer service did as they should! Mahalo for sharing this information with us...aloha 🤙

[@billrichards7713]

Thanks for sharing.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for tuning in...aloha 🤙

[@jackmehoffer7819]

I have the 250/85 on my 5th wheel. They are flawless.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Love Victron🤙

[@marcobrian1619]

I'll give you and all your fallowes aquick tip, dich your volt meter, get a DC clamp meter, You'll get voltage but no amp on bad connections. A amp meter is far quicker and easier. Just at your mppt clamp each wire to see, then move just after the next joint and so on. IV had something similar but is was a bad mc4 connector (factory fitted) had corroded between wire and crimp connection.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Great advice! I definitely need to get one of those. Aloha!🤙

[@vanmasterflash7153]

Wow I have the some of the same panels. I'll have to check mine. Thanks

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

I have quite a few of these in operation, and have for years...1st time ever one failed. I'll see when I open it up if its an easy fix like just replacing a diode or something. aloha 🤙

[@hawaiidogs9277]

Ty sir great info glad things worked out

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo brother 🤙

[@hawaiidogs9277]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 YW brother

[@vinniec5286]

I am glad you got it working now. I would like to think if it was me that I would have swapped inputs on the charge controller to see if the problem stayed with the controller or the array. Having said that, once I got to the array it may have taken me awhile to find the problem. I appreciate your integrity, sir.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for being part of the conversation here...aloha 🤙

[@vinniec5286]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 Aloha. Shaka, brah. I was stationed in Oahu in the mid 80's, but your big island looks beautiful. No Ka Oi.

[@johnwyman6126]

Glad to hear you isolated the problem component for sure. Hope that panel is still under warranty, normally they'll just send you a new one. The problem with the other panel is probably just the diode, shouldn't be too hard to fix. Then you'll have two more panels you can add to your system, plus you have a backup charge controller in case one really does go out, or if you need it for your third array.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Im thinking it should be an easy fix too. Haven't looked yet but will. Aloha 🤙

[@johnwyman6126]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 don't fix it before you can get the warranty going.

[@MR-ub6sq]

I myself have noticed that even though I know the principles of how something works or doesn't work, I might still make the wrong conclusion in the event of a failure. I don't know if you are already familiar with the fact that panels connected in series are only as efficient as the weakest panel in the series. Let's imagine, for example, that one of your five panels is almost completely in the shade. In this case, the other four remain equally low-yielding, even if nothing overshadows them. You've probably heard of this before :) Probably one or two diodes have broken and by replacing them - your panel is ready again. PS: Victron is the best!

[@stoptheirlies]

Yes mate pop that cover off the back of the panel there are protection diodes in there which may be faulty

[@jvkew]

A humble suggestion: Get a conventional multimeter and become comfortable with it. It doesn't need to be a Fluke or other high end unit, but they are the "Swiss Army Knife" of electrical troubleshooting.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

🤙

[@rickharold7884]

Oh man! I feel ur pain. I have done many things like that. And yes u don’t do solar unless at some point u are crawling around on the ground or floor ha ha.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

On my hands and knees brother! Carefully crawling through some over grown ground cover (jungle) hand clearing every inch for 60ft., with powerful reading glasses on . Haha! I'm laughing now, but I think I was a bit grumpy at the moment. Aloha!🤙

[@robertmeyer4744]

That interesting. You had voltage at controller. I can understand your mistake. I have bypass diodes on my panels if shaded or 1 go bad current flows across the bad one and still get a charge just reduced out put . glad you went to each panel and check it. if you got good amp meter you can check short circuit current on panel. the current is listed on back of panel. IPP or something like that. that the current test. 😀

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Yeah, that's what kept throwing me off and being convinced it was controller. Learned a good lesson on this one! Aloha!🤙

[@robertpaulis439]

Double check the Mc4 connectors assembly. I have had experience with improper connections. It's a simple fix. It also can be a diode in the panel compartment which is not that difficult either. My guess it's the Mc4 problem.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo for that! 🤙

[@koborkutya7338]

One advantage of having two identical strings what you can use is, if you suspect the charge controller, to swap them between the two strings. If the error goes with the controller, then it is the source of the problem. If the error remains, then it is at least NOT the controller. I had similar case then I swapped the two components, both became good and remained good after I swapped them back - so it was obviously a connection error.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Great advice! I'm just about to put in a second Victron cc . They should communicate better with each other. Aloha 🤙

[@freshia2008]

Sir is this Victron Mppt charge controller made in Netherland or other country?

[@SkyNoris]

Well the good news is the Victron scc is far better for harvesting maximum power. And like you say you have a spare now.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Yes sir! Everything humming along nicely...Aloha 🤙

[@JR-kk6ce]

I'm not an electrician, but I was having a similar problem with one of my EP Evers and I would have to reset it by disconnecting it completely from all negative and positive lines to get it working again. What I found was that one charge controller was back- feeding into another controller when a string of panels would get partial shading. Then my whole battery backup system would back-feed into my grid tie with limiter system when the string connected to the grid tie did not produce enough power for the load on the grid tie. It is my understanding that most solar charge controllers may do this because they don't have blocking diodes. So, I bought some appropriate blocking diodes, placed them were necessary, and I no longer have the back-feeding or reset problems. In fact, my batteries now hold their full charge just fine. Before the diodes the batteries would discharge somewhat which I wrongly attributed to the cells adjusting to their natural resting voltage. So, now I wonder if back-feeding could be damaging the solar panels? From what I understand of solar panel blocking diodes, they have very low ratings for volts and amps.

[@alexandercoss]

Hi, would you give the blocking diodes specs so I can get some of those? I am planning on installing an electrical battery charger in parallel with the solar charger and that will help not to back-feed into the solar charge controller and the panels. Thanks

[@JR-kk6ce]

@@alexandercoss The correct diode depends on the highest charging voltage and amps. I have a 24v system, and the highest amperage I have seen from the string of panels is about 32 amps. So, ideally I would get a diode with a 35v, 45 amp rating. You could go with a higher rating, but that increases the resistance. The diodes which I used are Schottky Diodes rated at 45 volts and 60 amps (a bit overkill). The item number is MBR6045PT. They look like big mosfets. They have three prongs. The two outside prongs are the anode and the center prong is the cathode. In diodes power flows from the anode to the cathode. So, this should give you and idea of how to connect them. You will need a heat sink because they get hot. When you bolt the diode to the heatsink, there is continuity between the cathode and the heatsink. So, you can connect the power out line to the heatsink instead of the diode itself (makes it a lot easier.) If you want to go the easy way, you can get a Roadmaster Hytech Hypower wiring diode used in trailering mobile homes It comes imbedded in a heat sink and has spade connectors for the connections so that you don't have to do any soldering. They have different models depending on the volts and amperage, so check with the company. They are a bit expensive, about $20 compared to the other diodes without heat sink that cost $10 for five in Amazon. Think about where you are going to put them. I put one on the output side of the EP that goes to the inverter. As a result it blocks power to the EP from the battery so that when there is no power generated by the solar panels, the EP turns off completely. I don't mind cause I still have a smart BMS which works off the battery.

[@deang5622]

Blocking diodes have very low ratings for volts and amps. Oh dear. A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. No, they don't. You can use just about any diode to block, that is what diodes do , just so long as the diode can handle the required amount of current. For solar panel use, you want to minimise the loss of energy through the blocking diode so you maximise how much energy you can use which has come from the panels. So you want a diode that can handle the current requirement but which also has a low voltage drop. That means the diode dissipates and wastes the least amount of power. So, low voltage drop - yes, low current, a definite no!

[@deang5622]

@@JR-kk6ce You are wrong. Yes the diode needs to handle the current and voltage, but you should select a diode also for the magnitude of the voltage drop across it: you want this to be as low as possible. That then reduces the wastage of energy dissipated by the diode.

[@JR-kk6ce]

@@deang5622 yes, I think that is what I said. We are not dealing with the blocking diode of a solar panel. We are dealing with a blocking diode that blocks power from back-feeding from the battery through the solar charge controller. The solar charge controller produces a certain amount of volts and amperage when charging a battery. In my case it is about 27 volts and at most 35 amps. So, I chose a blocking diode that handles a bit more than the voltage and amperage produced by the solar charge controller. In my case there is a voltage drop of .7volts, no big deal in my case. It all seems to be working perfectly now. Still, if anyone thinks I am doing anything wrong, let me know.

[@davidoldkitten2660]

hey my friend how do you have your solar panels mounted to your wooden frame ....

[@Gary-wh7ce]

Gary, I had a similar situation with a AIMS MPPT showing only 10V PV input from a 100w panel. Like what the hell.....turned out that after opening the junction box and testing EACH diode to see if that was the problem, I found out that one of the solder joints had failed. So I found my iron and pushed the metal down and re-soldered everything and found the panel was now producing 21V. IF BOH sides had failed, then the panel would be 0V. Lesson learned and hopefully this comment could help someone else......

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Mahalo Gary for sharing that information with us. I am sure it will help someone. Aloha! 🤙

[@sebastian_philippinen]

Hi I am wondering how did you connect the 10 x 100 Watt Solarpanels? 5 of them in series would be around 90V from my knowledge but your display shows 70V.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Yeah, 2 strings, 500 watts each. Voltage fluctuations pretty common. 🤙

[@chriscrossman4464]

Had 300 watts of renogy panels. Just Purchased a newpow 100 wat cause they were on sale for $89. wired them in Series. parallel, with a 40amp mppt . They seem to blend well getting 21amps . Is newpow as good as Renogy

[@michaelb2388]

Is that isolator rated for 100v ?

[@kennethmoore117]

All 5 in series didn't give victron much cushion got a fan going to make dinner with it

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Never threatened the threshold so far🤙

[@danebolster]

Can I Run 5 RENOGY 100 watt panels with My 100 / 50 Smart Solar Charge Controller ?

[@Theoppositeofchaos]

Last month one battery did that to my 8 batteries,,it was bringing down the entire system or should I say it was acting as a load

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Had that happen with batteries myself, but never a panel. aloha 🤙

[@paulmaydaynight9925]

well at least the Victron has a Bluetooth app as standard ^_~ seeing a future simulated outage running your www modem/router, small pc & mobile phone/tablet to keep you online on a 100AH battery for x hours would be useful information if your interested in doing that data

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

That's a great idea! aloha 🤙

[@kennethmoore117]

I didn't catch how you have panels wired all in series?

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Yes two strings , 500 watts each in series. aloha 🤙

[@adriant8559]

Hello, I need you advice in the following matter: I got a 640W PV array and a controller Epever MPPT 60A (Tracer 6415AN). Both of them are still not connected because I do not have the battery yet. I would like to buy a battery Ultimatron 12V 200Ah and I noticed in its data sheet that the charging current recommended is 20A and the maximum charging current is 50A. These figures are less than my 60Amps from MPPT. Should I buy this battery or not? Epever MPPT is able to reduce/limited the charging current transferred to battery? It has this option in its menu? I need to know. (By the way, this is for a campervan , 12V installation)

[@deang5622]

No, you should not buy this battery. The battery risks becoming damaged and its long term life being shortened. Either buy a battery that can take a larger charging current or buy two batteries of the same type and capacity and connect them in parallel.

[@adriant8559]

@@deang5622 I understood! Many, many thanks!

[@randylenart9674]

Now you have a spair charge controller mite just have a bad diode in the box on the back of that panel

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

That's what I am thinking too...aloha 🤙

[@jerryhoxsey6467]

So how did the output at the top array read 60 volts with that one panel not working?

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

You know that's what made me think everything was okay. My guess is it was reading the combined output of the four that were in great shape. But inside, at the controller never saw anything above 14v really. That confusion led me on a wild flurry of activities. Honestly, I don't know why. aloha 🤙

[@boscodog4358]

Wouldn't it read 72V. I am thinking the 5 panels should be reading 90V. Is your reading from voltage drop?

[@deang5622]

Go look up and learn Kirchoff's Laws, particularly one that talks about summation of voltages. Then you will (might) understand.

[@jerryhoxsey6467]

With the new panel in the string, what is the total voltage output for that string now? And what is the voltage reading for the bottom string?

[@props-model-shop]

How old is your Newpower panel?

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Been running those a couple years now 🤙

[@chronobot2001]

Solder joints or diodes in the panel should be checked.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

🤙

[@anthonyrstrawbridge]

✔️

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

🤙

[@honumoorea873]

If those are 20V panels and you got 5 in serie then you should have something near 100V not 60V.

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

Now, if only the solar panel manufacturers send you new panels, like the battery manufacturers, then you wouldn't need to start the gen ever in a longer period of cloudy weather.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Hopefully they're watching! Haha! Aloha 🤙

[@19mati67]

There is a diode in there, most likely is bad.

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

That's what I'm thinking too...aloha 🤙

[@kimokoanui3732]

Aloha from puna..what 12 volt batteries would you recommend for guys who can't afford the lipo ones?

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Aloha Kimo! Puna here as well. I really would recommend only LiFePO4 at this point . It's in reality way lesss expensive out here too. Even with shipping costs, which we pay for everything anyway. You can get a great LiFePO4 12v 100ah battery now for 350.00 ish. You could really only beat that with lead acid by a few dollars. But they are heavy, requiring maintenance, and will be dead long time when LiFePO4 is just getting warmed up. It's way more affordable. I just heard of a guy out here with Chins for sale, working with Chins. I'll be checking this out in next couple of days. Stay in touch. Mahalo for being part of the conversation here. 🤙

[@kimokoanui3732]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 I saw a guy on big island buy and sell. He's got the 100ah 12v chins for $480 each. He's also got the 24v 200ah for $950. That's a bit pricey for me. If you know where I can get the 12v 100ah chins for $350 I may pick up 2 of those. Keep me posted. Mahalo

[@solarandwindinsouthtexasda1473]

a bad diode it need to be replace

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Methinks you're right 🤙

[@solarandwindinsouthtexasda1473]

@@ProjectsinParadise808 I got 4 250watt for $40 because no power I replace the diode and they have be working for 2 years

[@2dougsgma]

Aloha

[@ProjectsinParadise808]

Aloha!🤙

[@tovarashumatrics3217]

Booooring!!!

[@rumpa09]

ce zici coae?