109 footwell repair Part 1

Special tools, stickers and old stock parts! www.britrest.co...
/ britrest
www.subscribes...
www.paypal.me/...
Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line!
Maybe I can help!?
[e-mail]
Send me a postcard for my wall!
Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada

[@fredjones7307]

I have in the past made the inner shields, and when bolting them back against the foot well used spacers between them, about half inch or so long to discourage the build up of rubbish. It is one of the major causes of corrosion in that area..

[@lenhornsey2175]

Nope, no, i really don't want to take the wing off ......the wings come off ....that was easy! Then 20 more "observations" .......Mike, you are a quality star! You miss nothing! Landrover should have given you a consultancy. After watching your trip around your local area I was inspired to go for a ride in the 90. Like you i kept my 6 feet from anybody and escaped from my "jail" for a couple of hours. Keep well and keep it up Mike ..... some of us need the inspiration

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It's not too bad here at the moment - I wonder if the virus will go before I get the foot wells done - they are taking some time!

[@richardcallison1637]

I’m looking forward to this👍

[@terryatkinson3182]

Nice to know that when it's reassembled, this area is done for a long time, nothing festering underneath a patch.

[@harveysmith100]

Cheers Mike keep them coming. Summers day in the UK so lying under the 4x4

[@gibsonethirty2836]

G'Day Mike. Matey you should know better by now - "A few small jobs while we are here" translates into a 3 year rebuild. It sure did for me! LOL Thanks mate I needed the laugh. :)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I think I am the only one working at the moment - might as well make hay when the sun shines!

[@sunnyjim1372]

Like Mark says below, get rid of the 'bean can reservoir' and just fit the type of clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir (the Series 3 type is probably the same as the defender one), they are quite cheap to buy and a straight swap - simples! Otherwise you will be messing around trying to blank off the one outlet of the can. I did this on my 1960 88" when I fitted front disc brakes 20 years ago - I fitted a new early 90 pedal tower (I think it was the same as the series 3 one) and Series 3 master cylinder and servo.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Problem is on the series the reservoir is under the wing - bitch to top up as the series wing is wider at the bulkhead - don't worry I have a plan!

[@machiningbasics1729]

Lovely old series my favourite!!! I think mines had 3 sets it’s crazy !!!!

[@gonesailing]

Hi Mike, great video, thanks very much for sharing the series 2A content and plans for making this better. If you are to replace the clutch master and CB type brake master cylinders. Perhaps going with the series 3 clutch master, that has a built in fluid reservoir might be a good solution (Part 550732G). I think the series 3 brake tower, with the built in booster / servo has a built in reservoir to run front and back lines independently. Going that route would then have you dispense with the old ‘bean can’ type of reservoir that often leak or rust out. Best of health to you, take care. Ian Just saw some of the other comments with the same idea. Yes, topping up or checking the level might be difficult.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I intend to use the original clutch type cylinder with a remote GM/Jeep reservoir! Easy!

[@gonesailing]

Britannica Restorations Ltd. sounds good, thanks Mike!

[@petersmith4455]

i had a 6cyl in 1974, watch out where the head joins the water pump.if the engine overheats and the head warps it will leak by that water seal.then the head will have to be skimmed,why didnt land rovers waxol the underneath when made..love the videos as usual. i have a kia 4x4 now, does not give trouble and leak like the old land rover. at 68 years old i need a rest.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Peter! I was going to offer you JOB!

[@craig_chaznibond452]

As a defender owner I can’t believe the exhaust route on that car! Interesting video.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

And this one had no shield on it to trap mud - hot mud - hmm!

[@MrRobmellor]

Hi Mike. Just to let you know that you have been entered for the Yorkshire gold cup SAWDUST PLATTING CHAMPION contest. After finishing this job, it will be no trouble at all. Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

She'll be reet Rob, she'll be reet!

[@nickboylen6873]

You were only expecting a little welding around the bottom? How long have you been fixing Land Rovers, Mike?😂

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I thought a quick cut and patch would do the job - however to my advantage the top of the footwell was pop riveted on in the factory so made a new one - I have 5 parts made now ready to weld up - what a bloody jigsaw!

[@nickboylen6873]

Better a jigsaw than a patchwork quilt, Mike! 😉

[@eliotheasman5378]

Hi Mike the same age as my self then keep up the good work many thanks Eliot

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Cool, thanks

[@jamescunliffe9872]

I'd would be great to restomod like they do with 2015 mustangs and stick on an Eleanor 67 body,just take all the body panels and drop them onto a Defender chassis and with a few tweeks hay Presto!!!

[@rdflo6739]

Oh crikey.. just seeing that rot takes me back to my old series 2a.. did the brakes too, (pedal, cylinder and boost from an old d90) ended up installing all new brake pipes, split front-rear so I could lose that ghastly ball valve thingy that thwarted any attempt at bleeding brakes....

[@jamescunliffe9872]

I've done around 5 footwells so far and on the last defender I made slightly thicker I also made some removable checkerplate footwells that were formed but never got welded,broken tig

[@cmotweasel]

What's your trick for stopping the Birmabrite rotting on the front wings where it joins the front panel, bulkhead and mud shield? It really likes to vanish under the washers on the front panel stud plates and the bulkhead flanges on mine! Resorted to making up a batch of rubber-backed penny washers in a couple of sizes while there's still some metal left, and putting self-adhesive closed-cell foam on the front panel and bulkhead flanges. Seems to have worked pretty well so far! Also replaced the spot welded mud shield bracket on the wing top with some nice thick polycarbonate bent 45° and rivetted to the wing after mine crumbled to dust. Replaced the bolts holding same to the footwell with some 20mm rubber bobbins too so bimetallic corrosion and the gods awful crap trap are both things of the past there!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I am not sure where you are but in Europe Dinitrol is very good - - here in Canada Krown or Metropolitan rustproofing is good as it creeps very well - Waxoyl is too thick

[@jamescunliffe9872]

3.22 different = patch work quilt of brown and orange rust!:)

[@dandangerous2962]

I've got a military series 3 been stored for 30years more or less untouched, free just the deal is I can't sell it (never entered my mind!) Just need clutch sorting, thankyou for the endless knowledge sir, just curious how is the best way to remove very think paint for the Ali floor pans and seat box?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If it is true army paint then it could be that awful clay based stuff - a bugger to get off with paint stripper - I have not touched one in years, but maybe someone here will give you a better answer

[@dandangerous2962]

@@BritannicaRestorations I think I'm gonna buy some new sheets and start fresh 🎯 ive got enough to remove along with old waxoyl on stuff that I can't replace

[@rbrtcrowther]

Have you got any videos on replacement of the bulkhead top under the windscreen? Mine is going along the vent panel top and bulkhead top corners..

[@BritannicaRestorations]

try here kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKOXinqLosiXkKs

[@johndiaz7240]

I notice every time you say "that's no big thing " it turns out to be " a big thing ".😀

[@Mikeaubert]

"Might not be a big job after all"... how many times have I thought that?! :D

[@williamhughes1925]

Fantastic practical advice again Mike, I have this footwell job coming up on my father in laws 1967 2a. Any reason not to use some thick aluminium sheet instead of the steel? Cheers

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Problem with aluminium or stainless is fastening it to the original steel bulkhead I always use satin galvanized steel

[@nickboylen6873]

I was trying to work out why your new music sounds much more “Canadian” to me. I finally worked it out - it’s the sound of the guitar, which is very similar to the guitar in the theme to “Due South”. Ridiculous how mental associations can work, isn’t it! 🤔

[@BritannicaRestorations]

First tune ended up with a copyright warning - let's see how long this lasts

[@machiningbasics1729]

My mate had a v8 s2a and runs a Jaguar xj6 Brake master

[@markrollings8875]

Mike just put a defender clutch master cylinder self contained fluid supply, it fits!.. I've done it,

[@BritannicaRestorations]

How do you top it up on a LHD?

[@ruaraidhmaccormick4677]

No don’t cut it 😱😥

[@myysterio2]

So disappointing watching people "upgrade" Classic. Might be the only original one left on the planet and were nonchalant about doing whatever we want

[@terryatkinson3182]

These bits are worn out and it's an ideal time to sort out this section once and for all. If not attended to this would end up on the scrap heap. And in the real world why not make the most of what's available to keep it from being a pain to drive. Only the anoraks would notice and they can bugger off!!

[@philhealey449]

It's a debatable point as the six cylinder is a rare beast. If this was a TDI conversion project I'd agree. However, the bulkhead repair is to be a repair of a previous repair, so without a vastly costly total removal to allow precisely replicating the original metal or the unfeasible chance of finding a new one, it must be sympathetically repaired again . Brake and clutch cylinders might be fixable with overhaul kits if available but bores will likely be unsalvageable due to rust and replacement cylinders / servo overhaul kits are also likely to be unobtainable making use of comparable available later Land Rover parts a reasonable compromise. So the only originality loss point really is the proposed trimming of the wing, and wings are reasonably common as salvage items. What do you suggest to do in the context this is a usable non concours vehicle ? The parts removed could always go in a box to stay with the vehicle. If the MIHT identify this car as a first production model, it might justify a special approach, otherwise it's another slightly rough old Land Rover needing a refurbishment.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Agreed - this is never going to be a show vehicle, nor is it going to be a daily driver, just trying to keep to going for a few more years and use on a weekend for a bit of nostalgic fun