Lots of great tips as usual 👍🏼

been checkin up on a few subs thinking they`ve disappeared and here you are with a stick of green gold bullion wow what a beauty tactfully kept and looks fantastic wish i could give it the home it requires but alas i cant but hope you have it advertised in the world wish you the best of luck with its sale

You'll be getting a name for yourself as the gearbox man Mike. I think it suits you to do them rather than rolling around underneath Defenders. I managed to get my Land Cruiser stuck in low range. Fiddled around all yesterday with the linkages but ended up having to go the the Chippy at 25mph at 3000rpm. No centre diff on mine, so the transmission wind up was naughty. Back in high range now, thank god.

Very good information, Mike but on my 2A I never liked the look of the wiper system so I converted it by to 2 individual wiper motors, mounted on the windshield frame like my old series 2 had. No snow in Florida so ice and snow. Were not an issue for me and the individual motors handled most of the rain OK if I needed more speed, I just operated it by hand and if that didn’t work, it was raining too hard to be driving Your video was very good and it’s very good to know the differences in that wiper system it’s important that this information gets passed on so it doesn’t become lost knowledge. Thanks again ciao.

Hi Mike, yes this does work on the series engines and the seals that I had then were rubber, they just pushed down over the guide But if you had new valve guides And new valves and new seals they worked OK

The end cylinders can dissipate heat easier than the center cylinders. The center cylinders are a heat bank heat sink whatever term people want to use but the center cylinders just have to sit there in the heat that has no place to go.

Can easily run into issues with o-ring cross sections that aren't quite right for the task, as I'm sure JP will be able to confirm. When you consider the common o-ring cross sections that are all very close to what you're working with, Mike: Common metric ISO and/or German DIN = 2.5mm Common Swedish = 2.4mm Common Japanese = 2.7mm And then for a final twist: The common imperial American equivalent converted to metric is basically 2.62mm You could easily have a hard time knowing what the hell you might receive in a parts kit, and even harder to know where the parts in the kit were sourced from🤣

Super good information I have to do some out rigger work on my series 2A and all this information transfers directly thanks again ciao

I like your videos as always, and I suppose all your followers sending reminders but parts the closely resemble other parts. I always tag them so there’s no confusion later on. Your videos are great. Keep them coming toose.

So happy to see companies like VEVOR reaching out to creators like you. Although I'm very certain your channel will continue to grow with subscribers, I think you're very much in the sweet spot for companies to send you products. Especially because you are willing to test/fiddle/consider new solutions to common issues. Thanks for what you do in the community. As someone who is barely starting to make content, I can appreciate just how difficult it can be. Your clutch kit is super smooth, by the way. A few days ago I got the entire engine/trans/xfer kit into my 130. Finishing up the ancillaries now and hopefully I'll have it all good to go within the next few days.

I know it is abit apart but still parts restoration. Do you think it is possible to restorer the door hinges on on my 90? When I remove the door , they are a bit wobbly in the pins . I know I can buy new , but I believe restored OEM is better than new after marked , IF it is possible to restore. I was thinking about drilling the pin out and replace with a bigger pin. Have you ever don any thoughts on this?

Hi Mike, hope it’s ok to ask a random question here has I don’t know where else to. I recently bought a 1980 series 3 88” with a non turbo 200tdi conversion, everything else original. How big of a job is it to convert to lt77 gearbox etc? Will I need to replace mounts, alter prop etc etc or is it a straight swap? Thanks, Jon.

Great find! Cheers for sharing

cant believe it - never could imagine this one

😂😂

Glad you were able to find the problem relatively easy Mike. I had the problem you described once, whilst putting a transfer case back, a set screw just a fraction too long, that locked up the intermediate gear. Fortunately I found it before closing it all up and running the box.

By the time you kick the bucket you'll know it all..... 😁👍🇮🇪

See ya later

Hello Mike, I'm Dieter from Germany. This is also a very informative video for me. I am the owner of a Jaguar E-Type Series 2 and bought the same transmission five or six years ago to change my Jag. from the automatic Borg Warner 8 to the five-speed transmission to reduce the speed level in the XK engine. Jaguar has installed these boxes in the XJ 6 Sedan Series 3. That was in the early eighties. It is very rare in the XJ 6 Jag., a kind of blue Mauritius. Where could I get spare parts, seals, etc. if I need something? Best regard‘s, Dieter from Germany

😂 just swapped my drop arm...now steering wheel is off😂 WTF...

Bent shaft.

Got a Canadian version of this balancer 2 weeks ago and it was sold with a much sharper and narrower pin and needed no tweaks at all. Balanced 4 X 16" tires and only one was improved on the dynamic balancer (Snap-On). Always use a Y form to balance and split up the weights inside and outside to balance both sides of the tire. The outlier was only imbalanced on the outside surface so the Snap-On showed that the two weights needed to be joined on the outside face and not split up.

You need to mark the gears and see which one repeats the binding every 360deg rotation of that wheel, remembering they are all different sizes - that will tell you which gear to inspect and where the fault lays on it.

Tell tale marker paint will reveal all, glad you got the pump issue resolved, I was mulling over the bent cover idea but the oversized O-ring I never thought of, you kinda expect that to be correct as given, right think I'll pop over to your shop and give you some money ( stickers for my new tool trolley ) I might even buy an approved by Mike separating tool.

Use parker o lube 👌

king mike - you are so mean - let us all having sleepless night thinking on that tick when it hasnt done it before - it must be something you changed. i wouldn´t discard the shaft at once, since that has been changed. maybe dismantling it - put it in the parts washer again - especially the bearings - to discard any debries sticking to something. if it is still there it must be on one of the teeth sticking out good luck

I love these dilemmas.

That was a brand new 1.4 I got from ashcroft and that was a 1.2 before.

Mike you are great ! This oul pump thing is good to know . So the wall is not very solid of that pump housing. And the gearwheels.....do you have " Tuschierpaste" ? It is maybe called inking paste ?

It’s like you have one Gear tooth that’s deformed bent something like that and every time that tooth engages the other gears, it puts a load on the shaft. If you had other gears, you could substitute then then it might be easier to work out with the issue is .

I my not understand it all 😊but I have more of a clue now than ever before

Yhea the water will definitely kill any fire😂

Just a theory Mike but that hole looked slightly ovaled to me on the backing plate... is it possible someone has chiseled the screws out after say ronding the heads off and therefore divoting the cast around the tapper for that bolt hole?

Genius !!!!! Sell the jigs on the shop?

I mean I see the countersink is not good. Is it the correct angle on Srew or Countersink hole ? It is going threw the thread, so why not using Loctide for sealing the thread , and maschining the Countersink hole? Also, I can see many small edges, and shaves ? Some srews are not in Line with the head, so maschine the cone a little bit. Sometimes Galvanizing is different thickness.

At least now you know its a genuine land-rover rebuild with the usual leak.

Thanks,great tip. Got a vw syncro with the same pump that is not passing fuel, fingers crossed that’s the problem.

cool vid , as per

You just don’t know what was done to it before it arrived on your bench. There’s some real thick neck buggers out there who can muller anything!

A flux welder for automotive works wouldn't be my first choice , but as easy goto , than stick , sure, and for the price , absolutely.

Think the problem is your clock's stopped, Mike.

That aluminum part must have hairline crack! But You fixed that one anyway!

Did it come in a yellow bag?

Looks like that cover plate been drilled where stud goes in .try new cover

II’m not sure but if that screw is on the suction side of the pump (while running) it will draw air in. On stopping gravity will leak oil.

Hello, I’m new to your site and I really don’t use KZbin a lot but the market a Land Rover Think Ebay is the easiest way. They are people looking for clean, low mileage, original condition vehicles. But unless you’re in a large Land Rover club that has connections to other large Land Rover groups. How do you find a Land Rover I think most people turned to Ebay if they don’t have personal connections. I like your site and have watched several of your videos and they’re very good and I will continue to view them. marketing is difficult so maximum exposure is needed and unless someone is wealthy the overall economy affects sales.

If there is any opportunity for a liquid to escape it container, it will I wouldn’t touch those bolts and plates at any cost right now you got it to stop leaking and I swear if you touch it again it’s gonna dump like a sieve

Hi Mike, do I need to remove the interior plastic panels to reach out the roof top screws? I removed the roof headliner now and can see the roof top screw from above. Do I need to counter the screws from below? Seems like the lower part of the screws are hiding behind the interior plastic panels? Do I need to counter/touch them from below? Or is the thread fixed and I can only untighten the nut from above? Best greetings from Germany!

The chamfer of the hole in the plate is quite large compared to the bolt so not 100% contact between bolt head and plate. Also, as said, may not be a true face on the plate. Sorry you missed evensong on this one. Suggest looking into Mr Jameson for a more in-depth answer.

The plate hole is not circular there's a low in the countersunk hole