#1262

Great little device, but it has one downside - battery drain. If you plan to use it less than few times a year, add mechanical off switch between battery and PCB. It will save battery from going flat.

[@joewoodchuck3824]

How much current in the off mode?

[@ThermalWorld_]

IR receiver is for decoding TV remote control transmission. You can see the square wave of the remote and the digital code of the key you'r pressing.

[@foadyousefi]

I have had the same device for some years. I bought this over other models, because of the compactness and the fact that it has its own battery. The IR receiver is to decode remote controls and indeed, it does for lots of different remotes. Overall, very nice and useful device.

[@gmanshackshack6822]

the IR is for reading codes off of IR remotes. Just point a remote at it & press a button once.

[@robinbrowne5419]

That's really cool 👍

[@omsingharjit]

does it support decoding all IR remote signal protocol like Rc6 etc

[@kenmohler4081]

The shaky hands problem is called essential tremor. Many of us have it. In this case, the word essential is medical speak for “We don’t have a clue.”

[@juanferreira5931]

Hm. Like arthritis, hypermetropia, alopecia and al the other crap that comes with old age, some get essential tremors. Oh well.

[@absurdengineering]

One option is to get a little piece of protoboard, solder two rows of pins, and connect the leads to that. Make the board stick a bit outside the socket and you can even stress-relieve the leads. With 14 pins, it won’t jump out of the socket. Even 1 row of right angle pins on a vertical protoboard may be enough.

[@raindropsrising7662]

Thanks for the introduction to this unit. These have gotten better packaging over the years. Didn't need one but after watching, will pick one up.

[@robinbrowne5419]

I like your little project videos. They are usually really simple but really useful 👍👍

[@Dennis-uc2gm]

I've used a version of one of these from Banggood for a few years now. I find it very handy when I'm salvaging parts from some old whatever that's headed to the trash. I also use mini clips on mine , I'm not sure how many times I've had to repair a break in the dinky wires I've used on them. It's been one of the handiest things, just press a button and most time it identifies the part and gives you the stats on it. The version I have has some hidden abilities to give out a test signal at different frequencies and also can go into a calibration mode for open, short , etc. 👍

[@jp040759]

I use a magnetron magnet I salvaged from a microwave to magnetize tools. I use an old tape head demagnetizer to demagnetize my tools.

[@Edisson.]

Hello, I have had this tester for many years and it still works well, personally I would not solder the clips to be able to use them in the K+A position as well. That IR receiver is there to test remote controls working on IR command transmission. Unfortunately, it cannot decode all types of transmitters. For those he knows, he writes a function with parameters. For transmitters whose code it does not recognize, at least it indicates signal reception with a dot on the display, so I no longer have to send a signal to the camera to see that the IR diode is flashing. Nice dqay 🙂 Tom

[@nbthanhbk2600]

Sai số báo nhiêu % so với đồng hồ lcr chuyên dụng

[@bandittwothree3765]

@Imsaiguy, do you have a video on BJT matching? I want to take the time to say thanks for these amazing videos. I think yours is fast becoming the best electronics channel on YT, can't wait for the algorithm to catch traction. You explain things so concisely, distilling the real essence of a subject, I suspect a prior professor or lecturer. And the sheer width of the topics you've covered is wild. Based on my watch history, I'm mildly obsessed ha! Thanks again.

[@jimomertz]

I guess to each his own…I would hate having those wires dangling out all the time. And I would forget what color is what number after about a week. But I like this device. It’s very handy.

[@MeeBilt]

I got one of these too... Works great but the battery is always depleted when I need it, so I have to charge it for a couple of minutes before I can use it.

[@rrowan327]

I did the same thing to my TC1 that I got for Christmas a few years back. Only difference was using silicone wires and a grommet.

[@orion310591RS]

Problem I had with TC1, is that LED panel backlight, had cold joint. After some months, screen was dark but I noticed it works, maybe it was my fault, device was in backpack and maybe screen was under pressure. Then I wire jumped all signals, and screen was OK, then when I removed wires it got back to normal. I also noticed that 4.1V voltmeter measured on battery says 3.9V on device screen. 1:20 - Battery last long if not used, when used each measure takes away 0.01V and you can see it at every start... even on your video it says 4.15V on first measurement, and 4.14V on second measurement, like with mine device. 8:45 - If you connect/short slot 1 2 and 3 with that item in center of screen, and start device, it will do self test and recalibrate. Also, I saw somewhere on youtube, that this device is stolen, some guy from Europe made design, but chinese stole it and now make profit. There is video explanation how this device recognize parts.

[@PapasDino]

For the long haul, probably once you decide to use better wires, you might consider strain relief for the cable. A simple zip tie inside would work or if you want to get fancy install a TRS 1/8" jack in the side of the case and make the wire set detachable. Regardless, nice hack!

[@steveoshaughnessy3736]

A spot of hot melt would work too. Glue the leads to the board.

[@t1d100]

I think that I mentioned on your yellow thingy video that I had DIYd the same type probes as those that came with your new unit. However, my three pins are on just one header. So, it is very easy to drop it into the ZIF. I prefer to be able to remove the wires, to lessen the likelihood of injecting noise from the wires, as they will act as antennae. Your slot is better than a hole, because the back will not be dangling on the wires, when the case is opened. You might add some heat shrink over the wires at the slot, to prevent wear. You might place a zip tie on the wires, for strain relief. The original yellow thingy circuit was built on a PIC 16Fxxx, IIRC. Thanks for the video.

[@paulc9139]

It's for checking TV remotes ,to see if they are working.

[@StephenFarthing]

I made up an adapter for the flying leads which clips into the socket. Saves cutting the case.

[@mikem5043]

Tie the three wires in a knot on the inside of the hole/slot for strain relief

[@joewoodchuck3824]

Good idea attaching the clip leads. I'd have to label them though. I wish it would say somewhere which way to connect electrolytic capacitors.

[@markcummings150]

You could just get a 3 pin DuPont backshell, or glue/heat shrink the set of 3 that you already have together. That’s what I had on my old multimeter that had an inbuilt transistor tester and it worked fine.

[@DonzLockz]

You never listen when I shout! Haha

[@inerlogic]

I know right? Very frustrating....

[@bob1842ra]

I have the same device. Thanks for the idea, I will do the same thing and try to remember to put the wires trough a hole first.

[@dennisqwertyuiop]

did the same but put little numbers on grabbers,,dymo printed

[@Scubado199]

The most dreaded thing that a Technician fears... an Engineer with a screwdriver.

[@twotone3070]

Nah! An engineer with only 80% success rate, 'cos it'll be the technician that's redoing all the work... several times. Still it's called employment and so long as the company doesn't go bust you're quids in.

[@thrillscience]

I love these things! I'll take a look at this new generation. This one looks sharp

[@barrybogart5436]

IR Rx decodes TV (etc) remote controls. It's cool.

[@Chilangosta]

Got one of these a bit ago; they are great except for the leads, which really are a pain and don't stay in well. Doesn't stay charged either. I may have to solder mine in as well!

[@mr1enrollment]

I remember teasing my dad when his hands would shake doing fine work,... Now "Guess What"

[@DonzLockz]

Haha, me too! :)

[@bandittwothree3765]

i wonder if there's a way to prevent this..

[@t1d100]

@@bandittwothree3765 I have wondered about a work-around... For soldering, I have considered adding some sort of resistance, such as a bungy cord, or a weight, to the iron. My thinking is that the resistance will steady my hands. Thoughts?

[@herbertsusmann986]

I have had one of these for years. I never have a problem with the leads pulling out of the ZIF socket

[@retireeelectronics2649]

Have a different design. The socket is plug in and is a piece of fecal matter. Will store it and do the mod you did. Keep up the good videos.

[@nigeleyeit]

Put the clip leads on dip socket so you can mount or unmount them with dip socket.

[@Ryan_Smyth]

Oh dude, you should've got the TC2. It's way better. I have like 5 or 6 LCR transistor testers like this. Not all are equal. However, the LCR-TC2 is one of the best (unless you want to spend insane amounts of money).

[@HA7DN]

Quite a good tester, but the battery in mine was awful, you might need to replace yours as well. Also, don't forget to add some strain relief (a drop of hot glue might just be enough on the pins, and a ziptie on the wires behind the hole.

[@curtkeisler7623]

Maybe you could tie a knot in the wires and that would keep them from pulling through the hole and that would keep them from coming loose from the solder?

[@Yuēhàn24]

Great little tester. Would be simpler if the 1,2,3 numbers on the screen are the same colour as the test leads. Or change the leads to the same colours.

[@omsingharjit]

4:42 may be it's for it Signal Decoding for Remotes ....??

[@papay9757]

I also have another model TC7, but I have problem, the display lock, always displaying testing Dioda zener, eventhough there is no zener on testing pins,

[@michaellundsrensen2292]

You should have tied a knot on the test leads so they don't get ripped out of the box. How do I change from Chinese text in display to English?

[@KJ6EAD]

I have the TC-2. I don't remember how it's better than the TC-1, but it is.

[@yoksel99]

dangling wires will have some capacitance between them, so in theory this device may autodetect a capacitor when nothing is connected. But I'm not sure if it can detect capacitance this low.

[@stevenspmd]

I have one of those; the CE sticker is a bit dubious though!

[@IMSAIGuy]

CE is Chinese Electronics 😎

[@lgk72]

@@IMSAIGuy Yeah, it's "China Export"

[@inerlogic]

Point your TV remote at the IR window.... it detects and decodes IR signals. ".....new wires..." And strain relief...

[@TinySpongey]

Some of the newer ones (still called TC1) off eBay are of much lower quality. They have no crystal, can damage zener diodes when testing and use a counterfeit MCU. By "counterfeit" I mean it says MEGA328 on it but it's a different MCU entirely which is completely incompatible and can't be reflashed with newer firmware. There's a big thread on the EEVblog about this.

[@HuaweiDocomo-y6y]

Can use for SMD component?

[@jp040759]

I got one a year or so ago. All is well except when I test triacs. It reverses the identity of T1 and T2 pins. It works perfectly with SCRs pin out though. I wrote a note on mine to remind me of this fact. Does your do the same?

[@t1d100]

I wonder if the USB cable makes it possible to update the firmware?

[@tonymanzo3766]

I have one of those, repaired a few things with the tester, capacitors have to be removed from the circuit one at a time, otherwise other components will give a false reading. Nice idea with putting the test clip leads permanently on the board

[@archerkee9761]

your videos are so cool

[@rinoceronte8573]

Accuracy Speed Cheap price You can only have 2 of these: If you want it well done and in a short time, it's not cheap; if you want it well done and cheap it is not made in short time; if you want it at a cheap price and in a short time, it is not well done.

[@IMSAIGuy]

Speed Cheap price I use it as a component identifier, not a measurement tool

[@Jens.Peter.Nielsen]

Source code and more: github.com/madires/Transistortester-Warehouse

[@BShocked]

How is the accuracy of the meter? I've been tempted to buy an DE-5000 but it feels too expensive for what I'd use it for.

[@t1d100]

I have both. They are really for different purposes... This meter is better for identifying the type of lots of different components, whereas the DE-5000 is meant for determining the characteristics of inductors, capacitors and resistors (and that is the only components it works with.)

[@nbthanhbk2600]

​@@t1d100sai số bao nhiêu % số với de5000

[@andytwgss]

Zip tie inside and you get a strain relief

[@pukkimi]

I ordered the same device twelve days ago, but they are out of stock. The expected shipping date is October 7.

[@frankowalker4662]

I ordered one of these over a month ago, I'm still waiting for it to arrive. LOL. (we've had postal strikes over here in the U.K.) EDIT: What if you forget which wire colour is which pin number on the display ? :)

[@t1d100]

I don't know about this new device, but the old, yellow model will sort out the pins, regardless of which wire, or ZIF slot you have the pins in. I very much imagine this unit will do the same.

[@hectorpascale1013]

He watches his own video - et voilà

[@frankowalker4662]

@@hectorpascale1013 LOL.

[@mr1enrollment]

Iguy: the Banggood site says: DANIU™ LCR-TC1 1.8inch Colorful Display Multifunctional TFT Backlight Transistor Tester for Diode Triode Capacitor Resistor Transistor LCR ESR NPN PNP MOSFET Does it really do all that? In particular ESR? --Triode-- ????

[@plainedgedsaw1694]

I think it does ESR, but only out of circuit. Who knows how would it display a triode... Probably filament as resistor and rest as open circuit.

[@Edisson.]

Yes, it can include ESR, although the data is a bit scattered when compared to my laboratory programmable ESR meter, but nothing extraordinary

[@barrybogart5436]

@@jim9930 I just found ONE component that it could not understand. But of course I can't tell you what it is!