12c27 / 420HC SUCKS!!! ???

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[@CSGraves]

I spend a portion of my workdays cutting boxes, and there is definitely a noticeable difference in retention when you've gone through enough cardboard/paper/fibreglass-reinforced tape. You know what else makes a noticeable difference? Edge geometry. I did a regrind on a folder in 8Cr13MoV, and though it wasn't shaving sharp by the end of my shift, it'll strop right back with a minute's work. I DO like fancy steels, but they're not a substitute for being able to get the exact edge you want on a given knife. There's a certain joy to be had in taking a blade that some would turn their noses up at and getting it to cut far better than a superior steel with an obtuse factory edge.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

I'm pinning your comment because it is absolutely right.

[@CSGraves]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors That said, I'm watching another of your videos now on the toughness of cheap steels and you cover practically all my points there!

[@JAMESGREGORYKULP1985]

Well my favorite knife steels are. S35VN and S30V. I am A poor person. And I am A disabled person. So I had to save my money for a very long time and I was able to buy myself two very nice pocket knives. i have a Cold Steel American LawMan lockback pocket knife with A 3.5 inch S35VN Stainless steel Blade. And i have A Gerber FastBall with A 3.0 inch S30V stainless steel blade.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

They are good steels!

[@JAMESGREGORYKULP1985]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors yeah they are pretty good steels.

[@TheGosslings]

“The customer knows they aren’t being told something, even if they don’t know what that is.” Serious wisdom there, amigo. It’s one of the reasons why I never became a knife guy. I’m still not, but these kinds of videos really help. You rock, amigo!

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

My pleasure! haha the dark corners of the knife world are surprisingly... dark... and... back stabby. Hahaha Thanks!

[@claypoole702]

I'm a simple man. You give something in 5160 I would be perfectly happy.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Heck yeah 5160 is awesome!

[@kirivanyam5969]

I have an Apokatana 2013 just in case of a Zombie outbreak!

[@joecatman5377]

Broh' I bought a OPINEL INOX#8, from a camping store in RI, in 2015. Never used it, until today 8/24. My impression was less the stellar because it lacked sharpness. It was stored in a garage then a storage unit since i bought it. I paid $12 for it. I wasn't expecting much unit i sharpened it. I used a cheap BUCK small metal sharpener. I became SPOOKY SHARPE" fast and easy. I i looked up what metal it was made from, and here i am. I'm impressed

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

@@joecatman5377 🎯🎯🎯

[@chrisreuther4546]

Great video! Love the reference to Knife Steel nerds... he does a great job... I do agree... I think that the volume of steels... and this one vs. that one discussions have gotten out of hand. You are spot on... so much is in the heat Treat... I have Bucks that are much older with 420... and the rust resistance is amazing... easy to sharpen... sometimes a bit more brittle on the edge I've noticed... but overall great knives... and you can get their slims for sub $40. I am with you thought with a company like Case... who doesn't really state what their stainless is... and heat treat... just like they launched some S35VN and Magnacut blades but run them far softer than optimal... I know that they will still have some great attributes... but you won't get the most out of your money at that point.

[@TNTUXO]

Ya bud...you made me realize, I don't know jack about knifes. It's kind of embarrassing now that I think about it. Thanks for the lesson! I'm definitely going to have to get up to par.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

The first step is important! From here on out the next step is always the most important!

[@klausheisler5014]

AEBL & RWL34 are probably my favorite stainless steels. (Scandi blades as well) That being said my blades are from independent knife makers......so the heat treat is significantly better than production knives from my experience. (Around 60hrc if I remember correctly) Moras 12C27 with a true zero scandi (after removing the "micro secondary) gets flat spots & rolls all over the place. Definitely under 60hrc. I put a shallow convex/scandivex on them & they're fine. The difference between Moras 12C27 & a custom/independent makers is night & day. Unless Mora has increased the hardness & significantly improved the heat treat for these new knives. Given that they didn't mention the hrc & don't seem to be interested in sharing the information.....I'm guessing not. Saw another video claiming the tang being stuck out of the handle is for better control of the blade?? Probably so you don't notice the untreated wood handle scales swelling & shrinking from moisture as much.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Hahaha I don't believe a proud tang has any positive effects whatsoever, although it is not always a deal breaker for me, but I think your assessment is correct about the untreated wood!

[@rickc4317]

Very good info, Jacob. Thank you.

[@jeffhuntley2921]

Yea. I’m low information. Thats why I get experts opinions. Cheers

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

We are ALL low info somewhere- knowing where you stand makes all the difference!

[@onlymybest9162]

Well said.... when things become overmarketed they do become very oversimplified. It reminds me of some of the "tactical" nonsense that is so often regurgitated. I personally know very little about knives, but at the end of the day they are tools and some have different purposes than others. So on and so forth, Thanks for the education and keep up the good work.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Thanks! And yes, BIG yes on tactical nonsense!

[@JPHomeland]

Very important Video. Thanks

[@CommonCentsOutdoorsman]

Good points Jake!

[@____MC____]

I wish i could find the fox taticle kukri in tan with the green handle. Just for collectors purposes.

[@emanuelroth7960]

When I saw the Moras are made from recycled ss, I immediately thought, "Hhmm...I wonder what parts of Volvos are stainless". Re. knife steels, D2 is the only knife steel I tend to shy away from. Although, I have actually been looking at buying a Half Breed Blades cck-02. D2 steel (actually the Bohler version, whatever it was called,.... it's slightly better than normal D2). 1/4 inch thick, should be fine. They seem to make good knives. Made in Taiwan, so it passes my 'not made in communist china' rule perfectly well.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

So bohler.... i forget what they call it too, but D2, IS plenty good. Im planning on doing a video on it. And halfbreed blades and worktuff are the ones that brought me to that conclusion.

[@zachorfe354]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors bohler k340 sorry I'm late

[@Errcyco]

I need to test my 12c27 out in some really shitty stuff like what you’re doing. Because I have four knives with it (all Cricket knives) and compared to the 420HC on my Leatherman Tool (an older 1995 one) it seems to be brittle maybe? And I’ve read that as well, it doesn’t bend or flex it’s just gonna break. I’ve never had any knife with a super steel. I have some recipe steel like 154CM which I do enjoy but I really want some S35VN or Magnacut. Hell, even H2. For me being totally stain/corrosion resistant is a must. I don’t wanna cut myself out in the sticks with a rusty blade. Or cut food with it. I’m gonna set aside $200 or so for my next knife. So many brands and options.. I’m going to get stuck on which steel though more than a brand. Thanks for the video here.. some interesting points I hadn’t considered.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Just remember that ANY steel can be ruined- testing 4 blades from 1 brand might not be the best way to get an idea of a steels performance. My Fox Macio 2 machete that I did videos on in 12c27 was a 1/8" machete that I beat on like a hardwood chopper/ survival knife and it was indestructible. With that being said and going back to "any steel can be ruined" a lot of "super steel" isn't all that super especially trying to get the cheapest super steel possible. It is VERY common for people to compare two similar knives in the same steel and choose one of them based on price- Only to recieve a junk product. I would rather take a properly made traditional steel than a messed up super steel ANY day. Heck, I would still grab a good 12c27, 420hc, 13c28, 14c28n, or aebl over most super steels especially in the woods.

[@Errcyco]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors that’s a good point.. for a survival knife what would you buy? Regardless of price and stuff. I have a few cheap ones but I wouldn’t rely on them for survival. Thanks for the reply man I appreciate it. Buying on price is kinda stupid, your comment makes a lot of sense there.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Do you mean generally considering survival purposes which steel would I choose or which exact knife. Also, what you think of as survival could help me answer.

[@Errcyco]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors good point. A knife I could strap on my belt say hiking and camping up in the Sierras for a month or so. So some food stuff, mostly hacking away scrub for campsites and light wood chopping for fires and possible self defense. I know that’s a lot of stuff for one knife haha. I do have a TOPS MSK 2.5 neck knife that could handle widdling and repairing tent, rope, etc. Steel I don’t have a preference I’d just want something that’s not going to fail or break in half. I’ve used 1095 and like how easy it is to resharpen.. my only issue is I had to coat in tuf-glide and I kinda baby it cause I don’t want corrosion. I’m obsessive about rust, I probably fear tetinus more than a mountain lion tbh. Thanks man! The his shit is helpful because this summer I plan on doing just that.. 3-4 weeks up in the Sierras. I will be in a few spots with access to running water and fire pits but beyond that I’ll be depending on a knife I can carry on my person for quite a bit. I have plenty of folders. Mostly crkt and Kizer/Civivi.. which will be more for food prep and delicate stuff.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Very good! Ok! So first off with rust- tetanus is a bacteria that grows in dirty places often associated with rust because it can hide in it- but more commonly gotten from the ground/ dirt. If you use your knife a lot and clean it even if it got some spot rust it's very unlikely to get if on there unless you drop it in some nasty mud then cut yourself with it. What is scary about the bacteria however is its almost impossible to kill!!! If I want to do some light chopping I want at least about a 7" blade. Popular choices for what you are describing I think include the bk7, bk9, and Esee 6 or Esee Junglas 2. Of those I would grab the Junglas 2. For more money I would really be looking at a WKR&T Ursus 45 or Fc7. Man there are probably a few I'm not considering...

[@davemowers7827]

Troll here.. I don’t think your information is bad, so much. It’s different for me to stay engaged without some.. I hate to use the word “entertainment” just because. The video lakes something like humor to keep the viewer engaged I suppose. Work on it! I’LL BE WATCHING YOU!!🇺🇸

[@tacticalmattfoley]

If someone treats every knife as a camp axe or every knife as a kitchen knife, they'll be unhappy with the results.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Sure- although using every knife as a kitchen knife is a good way to better understand your knife!

[@tacticalmattfoley]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I would have no problems using my Marble's drop point skinner as a steak knife! LOL. It has cut a lot of meat over the years.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Haha heck yeah! I like testing edge geo on potatoes. When it comes to fine dicing onions with some of my absolute monster thick edged blades... well... I wouldn't say that I am unhappy with the results, I would just say its less than idea haha

[@ronaldwills9318]

Good video man. 👍🙌👌

[@robertmedina5850]

Damn $250 for a mora that’s a lot of money that’s Tops MPAT money with serrations 1095 RC 56-58 lol I had the stats in front of me my friend gifted me the knife lol I would never pay 250 for a knife

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

The value of a tool is best found when it is used regularly. The average person will never need a $250 knife, and often will never know what makes a $250 knife $250. Just like it would be silly for me to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on a commercial tile saw- I almost never cut tile. However, being that I use knives a LOT and I intimately understand where the cost comes from I'll tell you without hesitation that $250 doesn't necessarily make for an expensive knife and if I had to buy a blade for another deployments or serious even $250 would be a VERY easy decision.

[@chrisgibson2328]

Why wouldn't a knife company tell you what steel the blade is ? Very odd. There always seems to be the next great steel but some of them require a machine to sharpen them.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

I guess they are now telling people that they are in fact 12c27

[@richardhenry1969]

I do enjoy your opinion, maybe because we don’t agree on somethings. One thing I have a problem with that chart. The thing is it’s basically marketing for certain steels. First off for that chart to be accurate. Every steel needs the same hardness or each steel with its optimum hardness. I know he has good information but it’s very easy to get confused with graphs. Also many people worry about certain areas that aren’t important. In my experience in eastern woods it’s hard to beat carbon steel. I prefer toughness over edge retention and corrosion resistance doesn’t matter if you use your tools. At most you get surface rust that wipes off. Now fishing in saltwater requires a stainless steel I’m a huge fan of 14c28n. In my experience every time I try the latest and greatest it’s a brittle chippy sales gimmick. It’s my belief many pushing these fancy steels only cut cardboard or paper. Funny thing when you see knives on secondary market. They always say never cut anything just took pictures. It on its first edge. Of course I like stainless with a folder but the knife community is going to places I’m not willing to go. I don’t see a production knife made in China being worth $200+. Which tells American companies they can charge more because. I’ll make my own knives before I pay these ridiculous prices like bark river. $300+ might be a different steel ,overheated edges, bad sheaths, poor fitting scales.benchmade has problems to mostly I will not support a company that donates to gun grabbing liberals. Ontario is my favorite but with their prices you get a diamond in the rough. Anyway I am clueless over moras decision. It’s like corporate on these companies doesn’t know their costumers, or they believe they know more then we who use the tools. I’m sure many will disagree with me but these are my opinions from my use and experience. Also remember I’m talking about production knives. Blanks machine ground sent out for heat treatment.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

There is a LOT that you said here that i agree with but there are some intricacies as well. For instance, this chart shows knives heat treated ideally for toughness or edge retention- that is going to be different for different steels. It wouldn't be fair to 1095 to compare it to magnacut at 65hrc. In other charts on his sight with pages of explonation he shows the steels as an ark showing their toughness and edge retention over a range of hardnesses. Now, it takes pages and pages of explination for him, and an entire book really, a great book btw, to get all of that explained. I boiled it WAY down here to his most simple stuff because 99.999 of people dont want all that but i hope the people who do will follow the link and read. Also remember that two knives of the same hardness can be heat treated TOTALLY differently. I plan on doing a video about that later. Just because a knife hits a certain hardness makes it neither right nor wrong. The reason in my opnion that we see new steels hitting the market and being chippy is manufactures want to jump on the newest trendiest steel asap to make that $, but they dont know how to ht the steel yet. I find that a lot of mfg's that release a steel that is chippy like zt and elmax they will get it squared away at which point itll be totally different. Now, with some other manufactures... you can make any knife and any steel wrong. You can ruin anything. Few people can get something right but ANYBODY can do something wrong. Ssooo thats that. For OK&T- I used to love them as you may remember. But imho its not worth the investment looking for the diamond in the rough when even when you think you have found the diamond in the rough it may still have bad ht, micro fractures, occlusions, etc etc etc. Not for a knife that you need to trust. I REALLY wish they could pull it together, even though i probably dont come off that way. For quality control and value as you probably know I put esee and wrk&t at the top of the game. I can universally say i believe the knife a person gets will be RIGHT with either brand, and the package all around quality. That in and of itself is a value. That plus the fact that they keep models around. OKC makes new models and deletes models EVERY FRICKIN YEAR. I dont get it.

[@richardhenry1969]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors I totally get what your saying. Guess my experience with Ontario is different because I haven’t gotten any bad knives. Out of the ones I have the only bad thing was the grind. I don’t have the sp53 I have a kabar cutless machete. The sp5 great knife. I understand what your saying about the steels. But what I was trying to convey many don’t. I have a background in ironwork and welding beside doing fabrication. An I’ve been buying knives since the 1980s. Really I could buy my knives in 80cv and 14c28n and be very happy. My other favorite I have is A8mod it’s my go to camping knife. Plus your opinion on trusting a knife. I use my knives camping,hiking,yard work. If something fails it won’t be in the field unless I’m doing something stupid. Which I wouldn’t do. The most destructive thing I do is throw them. The ones that aren’t good don’t make it. Funny thing I have 2 Mtech 151 that I’ve had for years. Only issue the handles fixed that with epoxy. Not everything needs to be expensive to be good

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

@@richardhenry1969 throwing is brutal for sure! And i agree, i think the market would be better with only 80crv2 and 14c. But here we are 🤷🏻‍♂️ But with okc i have gotten SO MANY bad ones. I have gotten bad ones, used the warranty, and recieved bad ones. Lol And i see it so much in other groups that i simply can not recommend them. One small issue in 10,000 is fine. One in 1,000 might be fine. One large issue in less than a thousand and countless small issues? I cant recommend a brand that is a gamble. Idk where the acceptable line is for qc but okc comes in well below it.

[@zachfudge24]

12c27 is fine under $100 bucks. I wouldn't buy the ash wood knives in it though, not for their price.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Yeah what they did is just weird!

[@kanukkarhu]

Great points on QC and heat treat and end use etc. 👍 As you point out, 12C isn't the villian here, for sure. No doubt it's a great steel. Better by far than the crap I used as a kid. But that's my point: I think the people (like me) buying at these prices don't want to pay these prices for 'good' steel at this point. Maybe I'm wrong, but as good as 12C etc is, that's not going to change. Were spoiled and the knife steel eggs are well and truly scrambled. I'm from Canada, and have been in the bush using knives and firearms etc. ever since I could do so safely. I'm all grown up now, but I've never seen this kind of thing. To me, it kinda borders on insulting. Arrogant maybe? I dunno. I do know that I have gotten rid of my entire collection of a certain knife brand of for less.

[@fritzd2116]

I like Mora, but I couldn’t see paying 250 bucks for one? I don’t think I’d pay 250 for a Mora even if it had S45VN steel. 😅

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Yeah idk... its weird thats for sure.

[@roughready]

I want to try this aeb-l, stainless that have experience and like 440c with cryo treat 154cm or 154cpm. I love carbon though lol love my 80crv2, 51160 and o1, 1095. 12c and 14c our good nothing bad to say and 420hc with the buck treatment is good otherwise uhhhhh

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Yeah I think at this point my favorite steels are probably 80crv2, 5160, 1080, 1084, 8670, and maybe even O2. I find O1 to be a little... eh. Overhyped fwiw.

[@roughready]

@ThePreppersBunkerOutdoors haven't messed with 02 heard good things I had tank of a custom bowie in o1 long time ago fell in love. Can't really go wrong with 1080 makes heck of a machete or axe haven't had a fixed blade in one yet. If I had to pick 2 at this point 80crv2 and 51160 that stuff is pry bar strong 80 crv2 is just so great all round steel. I think I may get a spyderco mule team in that aeb-l see what it can do. Be spending alot of time around d lake cumberland this year so I think I can really test its limits. Unless ya know a better knife to test out aeb-l

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

O1 isn't a bad steel, so I don't want to come off sounding like that is what I mean at ALL- it just gets upcharged sometimes pretty heavily as being a big upgrade over 1095 and I just don't think it really is. Not that that is a problem necessarily- but yeah. Anyways. 80crv2 and 5160 are both just absolutely awesome. I THINK for the price of a Spydie Mule (or less) you could likely get a knife in aebl from Dry Creek Forge, Bear Forest Knives, Papa Bear Knives, Tungur Knivur, or maybe some others. NOT that there is ANYTHING wrong with a spydie Mule, its just if it were my money and the cost were similar I would want to go with one of those guys! (I haven't tested the Tungur Knivur but I have heard good things and the prices are fantastic)

[@roughready]

@ThePreppersBunkerOutdoors awesome and I wasn't saying anything on your 01 statement. yeah its not a huge upgrade over 1095 just lil they really ride the same line i would have to agree. I'll look I to those brands for sure. If I'm not a fan I'll give it to my ol ladie lol she has no clue it its sharp she's happy it's dull I sharpen it lol.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

@@roughready sharp = good!

[@ASimao71]

So true!!! As a hunter, I can sincerly tell that the absolute best hunting knives are made from 420hc, by buck period. Thank you so much for sharing 👍👍

[@thetschoni3813]

Ok… now i have some Questions: According to this charts, Vanax/XHP, Magnacut, CPM-10V, CPM-M4, CPM-CruWaer and 4V/Vanadis4E outperform CPM-35VN in general. If thats the case, why did you choose it? Also CPM CruWear and 3V to me than seems to be the best Steel for large choper. Why did you not choose them for the SK? Also 1095 seems to be outperformed be almost any other steel. You also told me you will do the SK in 8670. But according to this Z-Tuff ist exactly the same in toughness but has better Edge Retention. So why don’t you choose Z-Tuff? … I am really confused😅

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Good questions! So the only steel on this list that outperforms s35vn for BALANCE in my opinion is magnacut- s35vn is essentially directly in the center of the chart for edge holding and toughness and more importantly it is what wrk&t specializes in which is VERY important. As far as cruwear and 3v and the super khuk, back when we did the SK as a custom shop we were looking at ease of heat treat and grinding in a custom small shop, a good price, and good toughness. 80crv2 is one of the best steels on the planet for that balance- except for 8670 which didnt exist at the time. I would still choose 52100, 5160, 80crv2, 1080, 1084, 52100, or 8670 over CruWear or 3v for the balance of cost, sharpenability, ease of grinding, and outright toughness. Especially 8670 which is at the absolute top of the charts for toughness matched only by ztuff which is SUPER expensive and much easier to mess the ht up on. Hope that helps. Also, s35vn might not always be our primary steel. I think it was the best balanced steel for an entire production line but things have changed slightly.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

As for talking steel cost- USUALLY there isnt much cost difference which is true UNTIL you start talking about ZAPP steels who makes ztuff. They are EXPENSIVE, often hard to get consistently, and often not available in a variety of thicknesses. It could mean the difference between a regularly available $450 knife and a $900 knife that is available one run every 3 years or something.

[@thetschoni3813]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors so if i understand that correctly, you are saying that technically Ztuff is a little better but it is not worth the increase in price for you, right? This would also mean ZTuff would be the best choice (if properly treated) for the absolute maximum Performance, right? And also (and i really really don‘t want to offend you here) this means that part of why you chose CPM35VN is because you work with WRKT. But it would have probably been even better to go with a different company that is specialized in Heat Treatment for Magnacut, right. I could also imagin (though i don’t know!) that beside the price increase for ZTuff another reason for you to not use it was that there was just nobody awailable to you who could treat it properly, right? What is interesting because on the Zapp webside they say it is easy to heattreat with conventional methods. If that is true, i don’t know though. It is just what i found.

[@thetschoni3813]

@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors i dont think i understand, why it is only magacut and not the other one i mentioned. As far as i understand the best for a steel to be in in this chard would be the upper right corner- perfekte toughness and perfekt Edge Retention. All the steels i mentioned are more towards this upper right corner than CPM 35VN. In some cases even in both directions: vertically and horizontally. Non of the steel are worse than 35VN in any direction. They are, according to the chard, at least on the same level. So why then only Magnacut?

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

@@thetschoni3813 so, i mention magnacut because its balance between edge holding and toughness WHILE being stainless which is another consideration, availability is a consideration, cost is a consideration, and sharpenability is a consideration. As far as mainstream production of the adventurecraft and jackalope we will likely stick with a stainless which means some of these options are out for them. You will notice that in the stainless chart s35vn is at a 5 for toughness, and a 5 for edge retention. Magnacut gains toughness WITHOUT giving anything else up, and it is EVEN MORE stainless also... i believe. When it comes to stainless as you see edge retention go up generally you see toughness go down, all the way to S125v which tops the charts here for edge retention but would NOT be tough enough for what i want. Vanax gains a SLIGHT advantage in edge retention WITHOUT loosing toughness which IS good- but availability and cost are not on par for me and the difference is slight enough to be irrelevant. Remember, s35vn being my manufactures speciality is a BIG deal. The benefit in edge retention however between s35vn and vanax/ xhp is not NEARLY so large as the difference in toughness between s35vn and magnacut. Cru wear is a good option and has equal edge retention to s35vn with far superior toughness, but it isnt stainless and again has price and availability drawbacks. For the Super Khuk and other bigger knives 8670 for me is the ABSOLUTE PINNACLE because it has toughness on par with ztuff/ cd#1 with less than 1/10 the cost AND edge holding is kind of similar while sharpenability is WAY better. Sharpenability is far more important to me even than edge holding, although most people dont use their knives enough to even need to be sharpened. When i started xk&t s35vn was an ideal steel because of its balance of performance, being direct center for toughness and edge holding with good stainlessness and resharpenability, good availability, and it was my manufactures specialty which helped with consistency, peace of mind, and cost.

[@Hoppesno9er]

I don’t buy anything that doesn’t come from QVC or HSN. Period. Why cut when you can easily bludgeon your way through paper with that twizzler like consistency that only the finest of Pakistani steel offer? Best knife I ever had I won at a carnival. They never told me what steel it was and I never asked. You sick people and your hollow handled compass knives, if it ain’t jewel encrusted to the hilt, it doesn’t ride in my jnco’s. Coffee rant and from the toilet. Boom.

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Dumbasskiss steel is the best!

[@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors]

Check out the source of steel comparisons used in the video here knifesteelnerds.com/2021/10/19/knife-steels-rated-by-a-metallurgist-toughness-edge-retention-and-corrosion-resistance/