140 hp Evinrude - Johnson Water Pump Replacement (What They Don't Say)

What other how-to videos are leaving out.

[@ralphturansky2068]

Finally someone that shows the problems that the water tube can be to install properly. I like seeing you using the crank straps to help with the weight of the unit when your working alone.

[@tnoldforester]

Good practical tips. I used your video to replace my lower unit on a 1988 Evinrude 200 XP. Using your starting points, here are some more tricks I used. Place a Sharpie pen mark on either or both sides of the shift shaft near the lower end of the shaft where it meets the housing when it is oriented correctly. Also make a matching mark on top of the shaft housing. This allows a visual reference to see if the shaft is oriented correctly once the lower unit is slid up into the motor. Second, place a small pair of Visegrip pliers on the shift shaft just above the shaft housing with the pliers handle facing forward when the shift rod is in the correct position. This provides a weighted offset so the shaft stays in the correct position as you slide in the lower unit hands free. Remove the pliers just before you begin to align the water tube and exhaust tube and you are ready to engage the splines in the motor. I also found that if you place the ratchet strap hooks on the lower engine cowling and loop the strap down to the lower unit, it makes it very easy to place the loop under the cavitation plate and wench the unit in place. I did use a thin film of grease on the engine side water tube and cleaned it well before assembly. Also, I found it very helpful to clean all the bolts and chase the bolt hole threads with the appropriate size/pitch tap. I did apply anti-seize to the bolt threads Thanks much. Finding out what “they” don’t tell you was what I needed to know. If you are having problems with the lower unit staying in gear, check the shift lever/shaft or shift assist lever/shaft under the power unit for excessive play. Mine was broken where the lever is welded to the shaft. There is almost no information about this part online or in the manuals.

[@ericknowles6222]

Awesome video! I had problems lining up the water pipe with the pump even after three attempts. Your ingenious ratchet lift will really help me a lot! I would add one other caution to the process that I discovered unfortunately after installation was complete. The shifter rod (other long rod next to the driveshaft) is threaded at the bottom. If you inadvertently turn that 360 degrees or more you will change the length of the rod thus causing your motor not to shift properly. If possible find a way to keep it stationary during the process or you’ll get to take it apart again (I know from experience) because it won’t shift into reverse or possibly forward.

[@InwardVoice]

Glad you fixed the overheating issue on your motor Wayne, for those here attempting this install, I suggest you Use Dawn dish soap or tcw3 oil on the Tube and a coat hanger to adjust it when putting back together have 2 people, you and someone to help.. happy boating :-)

[@justtinkering6054]

I like the strap idea. You are correct that most videos hide the hard parts. Thanks for this video

[@Old_Sailor85]

I also used three long bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins for re-assembly. Two at the front of the lower unit and one at the rear. Getting the shift shaft disconnected and re-connected is the real bear on the GT150. I had to remove the intake manifold to get access, and even at that it was a PITA.

[@lakeratatouille]

Yup that exhaust baffle and pipe combo is real fun

[@jaylatourette4729]

I just want to say thank you for a excellent video especially since I have to do this for the first time good pointers

[@warrenfromga9945]

You are right. They don't show the really hard part. I like the strap idea. I have the lower unit off my boat now waiting on parts. I will sure use the strap idea. Wish I had a margarita about now. :)

[@JaxRandomVideos]

The o-ring that is too big for everywhere else goes between the metal cup and the plastic housing, there's a small groove on the top of the inside of the plastic housing

[@lenny7577]

The extra O-Ring according to the OMC rebuild kit is for a water tube that's 5/8 and not 1/2. I have never done it but plan to this Friday and if I pull my lower unit and don't see an o ring on top by the splines then I probably wouldn't add it.

[@mattjohnson7835]

Great tips. I would have liked to see how you re-connected the shifter linkage. That seems to be a difficult task unless you disassemble other parts on the engine. I've seen a couple good tips on this, but always looking for additional ideas.

[@JeddyOG]

Best video ever

[@joeyelswick1796]

Thanks Wayne that’s similar to what I did I put a new impeller in and still no water

[@dunono3863]

Well mr Wayne. Dunno much about Evinrude but the omc cobra I did have overhit on idle and lower speed. It’s the same tube connect lower to upper United , and I found out was missing one of seal water grommet.

[@martiwf0]

Sandro, Sounds like you found the problem. At idle, the impeller in the pump wasn't turning fast enough to overcome the water bypassing the grommet seal. It probably did at higher speeds.

[@geraldkoth654]

That water tube fit up is made with a plastic piece that fits in the water pump outlet and the water tube in the leg. You need that extension tube.

[@fleetwin1]

OK, well first let it be known that there are plenty of self proclaimed experts on the interweb. It is frustrating for me to watch some of the misinformation and bad advice given out online. Many claim doing a water pump job is easy on one of these engines, but that is far from the truth. There are so many details to be attended to, ignoring just one could create problems. First, I am surprised that your plastic impeller housing didn't just melt away with your "exhaust shoe" being missing, it would be exposed to hot exhaust gases. And yes, trying to fight that 'exhaust shoe" back into place can be a royal pain, sometimes I have found that sticking it back up inside the exhaust housing first, before installing the gearcase can be helpful. Even so, you have to work that lower rubber seal into the gearcase cavity. The black plastic tube that is screwed on top of the impeller housing is the water tube guide that helps make sure the water tube gets properly fitted into the water tube grommet in the impeller housing. Your ratchet strap method of installing the gearcase is a novel one indeed! Using an assistant to help hold the gearcase while the various pieces/tube is being aligned is helpful as well. The assistant can also rotate the flywheel slightly to line up the splines during installation as well. That smaller oring you pointed out indeed goes into that groove on the driveshaft just below the splines. The oring helps seal the splines, keeping water out of that area. But, it is important to lube those splines with the moly lube supplied in the OEM water pump kit. Did you use an OEM water pump kit? If so, just know that this kit covers many different model engines, so some of the orings might not be used on your engine. The OEM kits come with pretty comprehensive instructions as well. Just know that the water pump design has changed since 1979, so the original parts book and service manual might not apply to the updated OEM kit you are installing. I saw you rotating that shift rod, but you must be very careful not to rotate it "out of proper adjustment". Threading the shift rod up and down changes its height and can affect how your engine shifts gears. Improperly adjusted shift rod height can lead to improper clutch dog engagement and expensive repairs. I'm surprised you weren't frustrated by trying to remove and install that shift rod pin that connects the shift rod to the shift linkage on the engine, this is surely a source of frustration! Like I say, the interweb is full of experts! I have worked on these engines since they were new in 1979, so am very familiar with them. I see this video was from several years ago, sure hope the good ol 140 is purring away and cooling nicely for you now. Don

[@copycat287]

Originally your engine had a water tube guide for reassembly. BRP parts has a part number.

[@tarzanbaby6473]

Hey does this motor have a box on the rear of motor with wires going to it? Like a fuse box looking..and another on the sides...I have and the rear wiring box i noticed are all taped up and not connected...was thinking it may be a gauges and temperature or something?

[@cracker51444]

They all undone?

[@spikekavalench]

The manual for my 140 Johnson says it needs to be in reverse to remove and install the lower leg. Mine was in the shop for a full seal replacement on the lower leg, and now it doesn't engage in reverse. Forward gear works fine but it doesn't quite engage in reverse now, when it did before, no problem. Does that have something to do with the assemble in reverse gear step being missed maybe?

[@GeorgieCt]

Prob the shift rod where it connects to the linkage needs to be adjusted. There are videos and I’ve heard you’re supposed to do it in neutral to get the shifting correct. Heard of allot of pple with the same issue

[@tallmanfagan]

grt a book on it

[@robdodd2641]

I know this video is 2 years old, but it looked like to me that you didnt have an o ring on the copper pipe going into the pump. There was an indention on the copper pipe that looked like an o ring seat.

[@jwbboat1684]

The o rings,go under the impeller and under the cup

[@keithjohnson2908]

I replaced the empeller on my water pump and cant seam to get the shifting rod back in line and noone seams to saY ANYTHING ABOUT IT .wHERE IS IS SUPPOSED TO BE TURNED OR HAW TO MAke it shift nbecause I put it in reverse like everybody said to do but it must be turned some because the engine is in gear all the time and wont go into neutral

[@WizardOfWhoopee]

Buddy taught me, after you remove the lower, count how many turns it take to bottom out that long threaded hockey-stick shift rod. it moves around alot. When reassembling, bottom it out and turn it back out that many turns. Don't reassemble with it bottomed out. the hockey-stick end should point forward.

[@keithjohnson2908]

I got some help because if you have any help it’s almost impossible to get it back in the right spot , the shifting rod has to point forward and it fits in a little tight spot in which the bolt has to go through to make it shift ! The video don’t say anything about it either , they just say enough to get a person in trouble ! But you can put a strap around it and after you get it in place turn it till it ligns up with the hole and put the bolt through it . I knocked a lot of skin off my hands and I said a lot of bad words of which I am sorry for but it’s back in and it’s running so I’m done !!

[@peterwhite6086]

Could you do a follow up on the bunker please

[@martiwf0]

Peter, It is not a bunker, though it is 6 ft. underground. It would protect me from storms and tornadoes, but I think not from a nuke. It is perfect for food and wine storage because it is always cool down there. I doubt I would survive more than a week due to alcohol poisoning.

[@noahpushor2420]

Please do an update video - you're hilarious

[@jimmyjames3832]

Saw this video and this guy using the straps. That ideas from Stu at Dangar Marine in Aussie. So you can check the water tube before fully lifting up the lower unit. Best to watch Stu as he actually knows what he's talking about vs these so called experts learning as they go

[@ronsharley8991]

You need dental floss to go around the pipe to direct it into the pump

[@michaelmcateer2040]

what year engine is this?

[@martiwf0]

Mike, it is a 1984 Evinrude 140

[@skeeterjeff2012]

That copper tube should not move so freely. Has your over heat problem gone away? Also your thermostats are probably in need of replacement as well.

[@martiwf0]

Yes J. Once I got that tube stuck in where it belonged, the motor now runs cool and acts like new again.

[@chrisacd5895]

A plastic pipe over the pump and tube will aid alignment..