Evinrude 150 outboard drive shaft seal, gear selector o-rings and water pump

In this video I change the driveshaft seal, gear selector o-rings and water pump on the Evinrude 150.
For outboard repair information, checkout my website: outboard.dangarmarine.com/guide
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Dangar Marine is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com. MarineEngine.com supplies a wide variety of spare parts for many brands of outboard motors. If you are in the US, be sure to check out their online store www.marineengine.com/
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[@tjapkosmits6947]

I think I fixed all around my boat by watching Dangar Marine. Really good stuff. You actually use the tools that have hobbyist lying around to fix things. No torque wrench tools or presses or other BS that nobody has. Appreciate your videos! Keep them coming.

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome mate. :)

[@terrybobb2191]

Your a life saver man. Love the detailed steps from you in every video you do. You have no idea how many people you really help sir. Thank you a million over!

[@DangarMarine]

I appreciate that! Thanks. :)

[@tsstsstsstsstsstss]

Thanks for this! A small tip, when I get to the step where the impeller goes into the housing, I usually just get it started and then use a zip tie around the impeller to bend the impeller blades in a bit. When the housing is pressed almost to the bottom of the plate, i just cut the zip tie off with a pair of side pliers and the impeller blades spring out. Works well on larger impellers.

[@bryans7131]

Another great video Stu! Your vids have helped me to save not only cash from doing service myself, but time on the water as well, especially during the peak boating season when the repair shops get backed up.

[@DangarMarine]

That's interesting point about repairs shops being booked out during peak season, that's another great reason to go the DIY route. :)

[@c.c.hiliner4753]

I love the way this guy always has a cold one nearby!

[@johnb8147]

Great detailed video's you post. I know my way around outboards since I was a kid thanks to my dad but it's always nice to look up a good detailed video to confirm and not miss anything. I blew the o-ring on the bearing carrier today.....1987 Johnson GT150. Ordering all the seals and o-rings, mind as well refresh. Everything else is in top shape. Thanks again

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome John, glad you liked the vids. :)

[@jakecorbeil3627]

Excellent tutorial on the website there Stu! Great to have you aboard!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Jake, it's great to be working with you guys. It all began with your offer to send a cap too. :)

[@bogus_not_me]

Regardless, you do a very good job with the videos. I watched them intently in spite of the fact I'm planning on a 40 to 60 for twin inboard. No one does videos about that kind of stuff so I still found yours very interesting. I've torn down and rebuilt maybe 5 or 6 auto engines years before KZbin could have helped me. So I thank you for your sharing your experiences.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Carl, glad you've been enjoying the vids. It certainly does make things easier these days being able to google just about any job you need to do.

[@christophercipollone1475]

Very happy to see you using marineengine! I have used them for a few years now and they are awesome!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Chris, glad you hear you've been getting great service from them. :)

[@darrylb4048]

Thanks for all the lessons. It is folks like you that give so many of us the knowledge and confidence to move forward with successful conclusions. Not to take your time with my whole ordeal so the short story is I got a 70 HP Evinrude 1986 (ish) (powerhead was replaced) and learned that the previous two owners never had the leg off, water pump replaced, for over 11 years. The local shop charged me $150 only to return the motor stating they couldn't get it off also. So, not being a guy that gives up easily.... yes, I got it off, repaired it and am now in the process of reinstalling the motor for a test run. You are my go to reference material. Ciao

[@DangarMarine]

It's always frustrating to be handed a bill without any improvement in the motor. :( Good on you for getting the job done yourself. I hope you told them! ;)

[@darrylb4048]

@@DangarMarine Thanks for the reply. Yes I did bring them in the leg and they didnt care at all. Therefore, for $150 I now know for sure where "not" to be a customer and yes I sure will tell all that want to listen, not to go there. Their motto is, "money is the important thing, NOT the customer". Have a good day Stu.

[@BigRift]

i love that MarineEngine.com is sponsoring you. i once got a set of throttle and gear select cables from them for my older outboard and one wasnt crimped so it fell apart. the warehouse it came from was only a hour from me so instead of making me wait for a new one to ship they arranged for me to go pick one up so i could be one the water the next day with my buddies. because of that i use them for all my parts. great vid once again.

[@DangarMarine]

Hey mate, glad to hear you got great service from them. It was a big part of my decision that they were such friendly people to talk to while I was looking around and it's even better to hear that follows through the whole company.

[@reeperseyez]

I am new to the boat world, been studying all i can. Your videos help me out so much. Thank you!!!

[@DangarMarine]

Happy to help!

[@johnbumpus7138]

New subscriber from south Florida here I know that this is an old video series but I just wanted to let you know how much you have helped me out. I’ve recently picked up a beautiful Wellcraft walk around 22 With this exact 150 outboard on it The outboard wasn’t running so I was able to get the boat dirt cheap $1800 with galvanized double axle trailer My original plan what’s the spend another 8 to 10,000 to re-power with a newer Etec I was told that the Johnson was junk However this video series gave me the confidence to get it running like new it now pushes my boat about 48 kn on a calm day off shore and I’ve trusted it enough to make the crossing to the Bahamas three times already I do have a Sea tow membership just in case anyway I just wanted to Xpress my gratitude for all of the time you took to put This content out I find it both informative and entertaining thanks again

[@classiclarry88]

Awesome channel. I've had thoughts to move to a warmer climate and try working as a motorboat technician. These vids will help a lot. I might even start taking written notes.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate, glad the vids have been helping you. I hope you follow your dream one day. :)

[@iamrichrocker]

glad you MarineEngine as a sponsor..both parties will benefit...great online catalog..

[@loganl7547]

If your sponsor is watching they should know I just bought my first boat (land lubber here, it's for lake use), and as this is my first boat and the outboard is from 1979 I didn't have the know-how to maintain it, or where to get parts, so Dangar Marine now has a new subscriber, and marineengine has a new customer in Canada.

[@TimHoHere]

Your camera work has improved dramatically! The 'trick' of your off hand behind the one holding the part forcing the camera to auto focus on the part is really useful! Good Job!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Tim. It's taken a while to learn about the film making side. I wish I knew it from the start so the early videos weren't so bad.

[@peterjensen6844]

Tim Ho if you know AvE's channel at all, that little "use the hand to force the camera to focus" method has to be known as the "Focus, you FAK!" maneuver. :P

[@leesmith5419]

the best Lower end rebuild video I have ever seen

[@kazzrich]

Once again Dangar. Saved me a packet, I can do this myself and fix my water in gear oil issue.

[@DangarMarine]

Nice! Glad the video helped you. :)

[@gradythomad]

This is very true. Not trying to be a snob by by any means. I personally just think its a awesome gasket sealer. head's, Water pumps, Base gasket etc. I've definitely learned a lot on your channel. awesome work!!

[@DangarMarine]

No worries mate, I'll see if I can grab a can one day and give it a go. :)

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

That was a good call Stu showing how to navigate the parts online. That's how I find my Mercury parts and order them. Except for the reeds valves the service manual shows 2 different thicknesses. I called Mercury marine and the thicker reeds go on the 55hp. the 60hp takes the .008. They are good for answering questions over the phone which is great customer service.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Tim, I'm glad it was worth showing. I think it's an important part of the process that I've been skipping over until now.

[@travis.stevens]

Parents: What do you want to be when you grow up? Me: Dangar Stu. Thanks again for another detailed video!

[@DangarMarine]

LOL. Be careful what you wish for! Glad you enjoyed the vid. :)

[@markolav7017]

Looks like a good life that's for sure

[@WillsGarage91]

Nice work as usual Stu. I really like that calendar too.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Will! :)

[@alnbaba]

MarineEngine.com has saved the day for me many times with their diagrams and the fact that they have all the parts needed for the job. I've tried sourcing through ebay but you need to buy from multiple retailers and then your shipping cost goes up. MarineEngine.com has been bookmarked for years on my computer.

[@DangarMarine]

Hey mate, glad to hear they been working for you. So far I've had nothing but complete success too. :)

[@adrienjoinette8913]

Hi Stu I haven't done any of these tasks yet but yesterday I had to try and remove the flywheel off a 50 Hp Mercury engine and after trying the traditional tools like a strap wrench which was to short i used one of your methods by using a coat hanger to capture the flywheel and it worked like a charm only thing was that I forgot to tell the friend who was helping me to crank hard on the ratchet when I say now so I got my finger hurt pretty bad a good chunk of meat gone but I'll survive, I'd show you the damage but its my middle finger and that just wouldn't be polite LOL

[@DangarMarine]

Ouch, sorry to hear about your accident Adrien, those types of things only every happen when I'm not wearing gloves. It's definitely harder to co-ordinate with a second person too. Hope it heals quickly!

[@mikeyo1990]

I swear every time I have a problem or question you upload a video related to it

[@DangarMarine]

It's all a part of the service we provide. ;)

[@chriseisele9969]

Thanks again for your teaching. Have a great week Chris from the 🇺🇸 snowbelt

[@hadjiic]

Very interesting and you are a good teacher and instructor for sure mate

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Rodolfo. :)

[@tomsosnowski1391]

Thanks for the website. They have parts I was looking for.

[@michaeltrocolli9147]

Thanks again !! I watch you before I do it myself! Cheers!👍

[@bassintime6879]

Thank you for what you do!

[@philjames1969]

Another great vid Stu. I have an E150TXCEM that will need the same doing at some point so great to see how it's done. I also have ordered from Marine Engine.com and use their diagrams etc. Keep up the good work, love the 'spray booth'

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Phil, home the job goes well for you when you give it a shot.

[@EricReitzel]

You do such a Great job on your videos, I think I've watched all of them and I don't even own a Boat...LOL.... Saving my pennies for a Spray Booth like yours....

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Eric. If you want you can borrow my spray booth whenever you need it. :)

[@BeerWineandShine]

great vids man. hope you keep doing them. I do all my own boat work and for friends... you have become my "go to" source for info and "tips and tricks".. lol. thank you

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Lucas, glad the vids have been helping you (and your friends!) :)

[@perkypat2214]

Nice vid Stu. I just pulled the water pump off my spare Johnson 70. The drive shaft oil seal looks fine, although a little bit of chalky stuff sprinkled around it. I was thinking of vacuuming it out, cleaning it properly and putting a coating of grease on it to keep it protected and supple. Do you see any merit in this or does it need to be kept dry? Cheers.

[@6BoogyDown9]

Thank you for your videos, I learned a whole lot from you sir.

[@daneschuck6242]

I like the calendar that you have on the wall behind you.

[@DangarMarine]

It has it's strengths. ;)

[@markolav7017]

Another great vid Stu...and I must concur , the months on that calendar keep getting better and better. Nice one Wurth !! Quick question.. if you antifoul the bottom of the Evinrude leg will you use the Trilux 33 or is that just for hulls ?

[@DangarMarine]

Personally I preferred May, but that's just me. ;) I would definitely use Trilux 33 on anything like a gearbox that is made from aluminium even though the paint should theoretically protect it from other antifouls.

[@jimv1484]

Bummer.....I thought I just had to do the prop shaft seal....now I know there are about 10 other seals, gaskets, and O rings that I need. But thanks to you I have a chance at getting it right. I will get started building the spray booth first then order my parts. Another vote for employee of the month. I have some gasket and seals humor there too but I thought I had better keep it clean.....Thanks for the very informative video!!!!!

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Jim, the prop shaft seal is usually the main culprit as fishing line often gets in there and cuts the seal. Doing a pressure test on the gearbox will help you find the one that is leaking so you don't need to change others unnecessarily. Are you thinking of the mechanic that tells the walrus it looks like he's blown a seal and he says, no, I was just eating an ice cream? Good luck with your spray booth! :)

[@jimv1484]

Now that was funny! Ok so maybe thats the best plan of action. remove lower unit and pressure test first. I will have to buy or rig a pressure tester that I might never use again...but what the hell...I have plenty of tools that i never use. I would think i would have seen a little oil slick behind the boat if it was the prop shaft....but it is a fishing boat so certainly could have been fishing line in the prop seal. That being said the previous owner told me he had just done the lower unit oil and the water pump.....so after watching your vid....I can maybe assume......yes assume.....that he just changed out the impeller and maybe no O rings or gaskets......This repair is very cheap if i do it...and very expensive if someone else does it........so i guess its gunna be me! I would love to show you a few pics of my finished resto...how can I post them here?

[@jimv1484]

Just bought all of my gaskets and seals via Marineengine.com. I have used them before and I am always very impressed with them. This is not a commercial for them but I am happy that you partnered with them. Their parts diagrams are easy to follow..and you can talk to a human on the phone every time. Hey Stu....here is a follow up question for ya......If I was only going to replace the prop shaft seal and the large gear case O rings....is it ok to just leave the lower unit attached to the engine where it is stable and I can trim up and down as needed???? Thanks.......

[@robertocharreau5734]

Another very clear and useful Video Stu!, Great!. Related to this video, I would like to know further information about the assembling “gap” and its purpose on the Upper parts of gearcase transmission (axial bearings, washers and bearing housing cap). What is the "optimal" Gap between Shim washers (2) and the bottom face of the bearing housing top Cap (upper drive shaft side)? I would like to know if OMC/BRP indicates any particular value of gap for a new or used gearcase for instance, and what is the reason for it?... When I dissembled my Johnson 130-1996 gearcase for maintenance i measured 0,6mm of "light/gap" between top of the both shim washers (2x0.12mm) and bottom face of the bearing housing cap, is it OK or is too much separation? ... Should I add more Shim washers?.... I appreciate any help you can give me about this. Thanks a lot!

[@dynaman1600]

Fantastic and very informative. Thanks

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Nick. :)

[@Rensvind1]

These videos has me riveted infront of my computer. And they have helped me too. My Suzuki blew the impeller. Parts ordered and the old one is already removed. But since im male and hetero im ALWAYS alittle bit wary of having my o-ring pinched.....

[@DangarMarine]

Glad the vids have been helping. Pinching isn't so bad, it's when they get torn you really have to start worrying! ;)

[@DougsMessyGarage]

Love the Wurth calendar in the background

[@MrWilliam.Stewart]

Fixed! Proper job.

[@teleke]

Quick question - did you apply any rubber/gasket adhesive to the o-ring between the metal cup and plastic housing at all? Interested to know what your thoughts are as the manual calls for "adhesive 847" at the four points of the o-ring. Cheers!

[@dynaman1600]

Great and well informative. Is this the same outboard that you have replaced the pistons.

[@jacoblee6304]

Can I use a high grit sandpaper to get the rest of the gasket off the shift shaft case? Thank you for the video

[@wishinfishin8019]

Great video! I have a 1999 Johnson 150hp 2 stroke and confirned leaks at drive shaft seal and shift linkage, but there is no leak at prop shaft seals. All original seals. I'll definitely replace the leaky ones, but is it okay to not touch the prop shaft seal. I'd rather not risk damaging the prop shaft if I don't need to. Thanks.

[@ChuckEb97]

loving the spray booth! haha

[@johanantruss579]

loving the calender! 😉

[@DangarMarine]

I would put the calendar in the spray booth but I don't want it to get sticky. ;)

[@stanpatterson5033]

That comment was left wide open for interpretation, wasn't it.... lol

[@ronpowell2373]

Stan, standard Aussie humor- double entendres are de jour here.

[@texierthierry9964]

Superbe vidéo j'ai pu faire mon embase correctement merci. thank you.

[@ct1762]

those oil seals always look loose, no matter what you do after a year. i've come to the conclusion water, 90% of the time, is getting in around the shift rod 0-rings or re-used drain and fill plugs, or a combo of both. both usually those 0-rings. i actually have a bunch of the older style shift rod covers i replace these with, as they only take one smaller 0-ring and make shifting friction slightly easier, plus they seem to keep water out better.

[@christopheradams5879]

well done mate good job

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Chris!

[@markduckham7069]

Hello Dangar Stu. Thank for your very interesting and helpful videos. My name is Mark from South Africa. I have a Johnson 115HP V4 2004, serial number J115PLSRC motor, and I followed your video pretty much point by point, however when I removed the drive shaft seal plate my drive shaft lifted up slightly and it seems like it’s pulled out/ away from the gears in the box and now I can feel it running on top of the gears and not meshing. How do I relocate the shaft back with the gears without have to strip the lower end?

[@williamriley2528]

Did you ever do a carb rebuild video on the Evinrude 150 Ocean Runner...?

[@kansascityshuffle8526]

Does that main gasket sometimes require silicone to keep it in place? When starting the impeller in every attempt so has grabbed the gasket and threw it out of whack

[@hunterdeporter6264]

Are you concerned at all about the deep-cut ring on your drive shaft? How would you sand that out?

[@landon5636]

great vid stu. I recently replaced impeller and housing on an old evinrude. kit came with few more o-rings than I used and no instructions. What would happen if I failed to put ring under impeller and in between the metal and plastic housing? I haven't put lower unit back on yet so don't know what kind of pressure I have. u da man stu

[@DangarMarine]

I'm guessing it would just lose a little bit of the water pressure out the top and bottom of the pump. You might not find this to be a huge problem if the impeller is new and pushing plenty of water.

[@tomascharles5080]

Thanks for sharing . this is what I need to do on my old 70 Johnson.

[@mr.fatbasstard648]

Thanks Stu, this video is definitely going on the top shelf for WP and shift selectors​. Great tip on the parts list diagram. Repair manuals are rare and expensive for my 40 year old Johnson motor. I use my 15 hp Johnson quite a bit for trolling at very low speeds. I used to get black drops of unspent fuel leaking from the lower gear case box exhaust port. If I give her a go at WOT for a bit before heading for the launch ramp at the end of a 6 hour day it doesn't seem to happen. I know these little engines are temperamental and have their own personalities. Can you do an advisory video on excessive trolling use issues. If I spend 90% of my time at low speed trolling should I use different plugs, adjust the Lean/Rich selector and/or the fuel mixture ratio? Would a fuel additive be helpful or should I just not worry about the unspent fuel drips?

[@DangarMarine]

Hi mate, interesting question about outboards that spend a lot of time trolling. My first thought would be that the amount of oil used in the premix fuel is probably the biggest issue. The trouble is that if you do a fast run out to your favourite fishing spot then you are going need that higher mix of oil even if it works against you for the rest of the time. Maybe a two tank setup could work? I would also think that running a bit leaner would help too if you are getting unburnt fuel and carbon out the exhaust. I'm not to sure about plugs. Outboards can actually get cooler the faster they are run due to the larger amount of water being pumped so it would be interesting to do a bit of research there. Sounds like this topic could be a video in it's own right!

[@TheWildclammer]

Thank you !

[@ronpowell2373]

Hey, same spray booth I have! If you ever work out the part number for the bug filters let me know please.

[@DangarMarine]

Will do! ;)

[@albazar]

Hi Stu. I did notice that it has a hydrofoil fitted,has this improved the performance or handling at all do you know?. as I am thinking of putting one on my yam 40. cheers.

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Alan, not sure what effect it had on this boat as it was always on, but I'm planning to do a video on hydrofoils very soon.

[@carlosh.deseixas4850]

so thanks teacher... Rss. great video. ponta grossa city brazil

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Carlos. :)

[@11bayrat]

Good video thanks. Is Yamaha the only one that needs the power head removed to change the shift rod?

[@DangarMarine]

From memory some Honda are the same.

[@darrellbuck577]

love your channel and videos..... Why do i have pressurized hot water coming from the front drain hole on the gear case on an Evinrude E60TLESM ? any ideas?

[@DangarMarine]

Sounds like the water that has been through the motor and is not exiting down through the exhaust is coming out there. It could be a problem with a seal around the exhaust or a corrosion hole in the exhaust.

[@jeffrysayre6955]

I've got a Johnson 88 that has a snapped upper shaft. I'd like to replace the upper shaft but I can't figure out how to get the upper shaft separated from the lower shaft. It looks like a spline that just pushes in to the lower shaft. I've tried taking by strips clapping to What's Left of the upper shaft and tapping loose but it's stuck in the lower shaft housing pretty good. I'm thinking about applying some heat tomorrow and trying again. Is this the right thing to do? I appreciate any help. Thank you

[@dmanars1]

I know you made these years ago, but dammit they are guiding me through my 112spl rebuild. Ive been looking for the orientation of the upper drive shaft seal every where. I purchased a new a new upper drive shaft housing and the seal is shipped upsidedown. was confused for 3 days until I saw this. Thank you for all the detailed videos. Onlt question I have though, what torque do you tighten the water pump bolts? Or are they torqued at all?

[@mitchkey9747]

I follow you sir and appreciate your videos and the clarity in which you share. I recently asked a question about the setup of the throttle, and advance under the flywheel of my 1986 Johnson 150 and you referred me to a shop manual. I have been all over the internet and there are numerous downloads as well as hard copies. Marine.com offers a Seloc manual but the pictures in the example don't look very clear, this may be just a bad example, I don't know. Do you have a trusted manual with clear pictures and directions that you might recommend? I know its a matter of opinion but I would like to know yours if you don't mind sharing. Thanks

[@ernestpatterson823]

I have a question. Do you have a video on how to replace or unstick a shift rod on a 1989 Evinrude 150XP?

[@timothyberrian267]

I have a Yamaha 200 just wondering when changing my shift seal my shift shaft pulled up a small amount and when right back into place, my question is can it become out of adjustment or is there just one way

[@ct1762]

no the only way its coming out of adjustment is if you screw it in or out. you can always mark or put a piece of tape on the driveshaft for reference if in doubt (with the shift rod in neutral, of course!)

[@ivancampos5452]

Muito bom ❤ obrigado pela aula

[@claudio13956]

if you turn the drive shaft anti clock wise when installing the pump will it correct it's self once you start the motor up or will it just reck the pump

[@DangarMarine]

It can sometimes right itself, but sometimes only a few of the blades will, not all of them and it won't pump very well.

[@ScarlettNell123]

A zip tie around the impeller, to hold the bent the fins (the right way!), then snip it with sidecutters once the cover is over the top part.

[@johnwkirkjr]

My question is regarding the Driveshaft Seal on a 1993 Johnson 150. I see that you installed just 1 seal in the driveshaft bearing housing. (It must replace having to install the 2 seals) I have both that I could install. The 1 double type seal and the individual 2 seals. Can you please tell me if it's best practice to install the 2 seals (Johnson Part numbers 0329922 and 0329923) as shown in the schematic for Johnson Evinrude BRP 1993 150 25"shaft counter rotation. or just the 1?

[@bjs5889]

Johnno 99 90hp Gearbox broken tooth somewhere. In your experience does it usually cause damage to other components ? Great site, easy to watch and learn. Kind Regards

[@christopherkise]

thanks for the video. Love the second hand though =)

[@dustpan2000]

Dang you beat me to the comment!

[@joernpaust-andersen5044]

🎶🌺🎶You R A Champ !! Thanx !! From Oslo Norway 🚤⚙️⛵️🎶

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. :)

[@Br3no94]

I realise it’s been a while now... but their website says they only ship and sell to the US now? Any recommendations for aussies to get parts? Or just use freight forwarding 🤔

[@DangarMarine]

Freight forwarding would be a way to go, otherwise I just go to the local outboard dealers.

[@joshuavang5200]

Hey I have a 2000 Johnson 50 outboard and I was wondering how many counts and turns does it need for the shift rod? Thanks

[@DangarMarine]

You will need the service manual to find out the measurement. It is done by the height of the eye in the rod. There is a video on the process setting shift linkage height.

[@mikeyo1990]

The kit didn’t come with the o ring for the drive shaft ?

[@asmodeomammon]

¿How do I do to know what year is my Evinrude 140 hp 2 strokes?

[@Indureiner]

Another great video thanks, and strange timing for my part. I have just been boxing with my 50HP evinrude for 3½ hours today, in vane. It overheats in idle. Sensors looks good. thermostat replaced, and water passing through, impeller replaced and housing looks good, oil looks clear and fine. no burned smell in cooling system. You have any advice to a desperate Scandinavian?

[@DangarMarine]

Hi mate. When you say water passing through, does water come out from the thermostat housing when the thermostat is out? If so then I would really be either suspecting blocked water jackets or a bad sensor. If you put an infrared thermometer on the head it will tell you if it is really getting hot or not.

[@Indureiner]

Hi Stu. Thank you for answering. Engine is getting very hot and the alarm beeps. The tell tale is very unstable at times (all hoses checked). Looks like a pressure problem in the cooling system. Today i will check the pressure relief valve to see if it is stuck open. or maybe other leaks between the water pump and engine. If it is the water jackets being blocked i guess it needs to be opened to the head gasket right? Best Morten

[@matthewrosato4644]

Thanks!

[@DangarMarine]

Welcome! Thank you for supporting the channel!

[@jeffreylabarge426]

I have an issue of gear fluid leaking out of my water intake holes not a lot of lube but i noticed it, was wondering if you ever had a motor with this issue and maybe a possible place or places to start investigating have a 2002 mercury ELPTEFI 4stroke

[@DangarMarine]

Sounds like maybe the driveshaft oil seal has failed.

[@michaelcuyno4377]

Sir can the lower unit drive shaft rotaion from clock wise to counter clock wise? Tia

[@stanpatterson5033]

Hi Stu, as you were fitting the impeller down over the Woodroffe key, I got thinking that the grease you had put on the I-D of the impeller was mostly lost as it journeyed down the length of the shaft, and could likely have used another dollop, but in the end, you did get it to work. I wonder why they chose to go the route of using a Woodroffe key instead of just using a shaft (or shear) key. Any benefits of W/key over shaft key there ?

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Stan, I think cleaning the shaft makes more difference that the grease in reality. When the shaft has corrosion on it and the diameter is increased you almost never get the impeller on or off. Good question about the woodruff key, I can't see any real benefit to that style of locking mechanism.

[@ronpowell2373]

The style of drive key in the video will jam in tighter as the real load is applied and spread the driving load around the whole drive shaft. That style of 'jam' or 'cam' key drive does not provide any protection from overload or mechanical binding. The Woodruff key (half moon shape Stu has shown in other videos) does not spread the drive force, the key takes the full load and so is easier to shear. Other than that there is not much difference in functionality.

[@joshking3295]

you fixed the second had on your tire clock yet?

[@danmuller2940]

I just noticed the calendar on the wall in the background. LOL

[@shaynetcrocker]

Hey Stu, I have a 96 Evinrude 150hp I took off the gear box seal and I removed two seals. In the manual it shows one seal but I’m a little confused. I ordered the same seal you did but I’m wondering if this lower unit is different. I would really appreciate your help.

[@DangarMarine]

From memory there are two versions of the gearbox for this motor, one that takes a single seal one that two.

[@Basshog1000]

I think I have big problems the shift shaft bolt must be rung off there is no bolt head there only see like a pin. Is this right and how could I fix to get the lower unit off? I have a 1994 115 hp Evinrude

[@cfauvel]

WOW time out...just noticed what appears to be a calendar in the back....please zoom in on that and flip the pages. :-)

[@denc6505]

Those were the good ol days of good calenders that didn't end up in landfill.

[@bee2333]

So that play on the impellar isnt a big deal?? I have that same play

[@Ramshackle6984]

Do you worry about torqueing these fasteners to spec? Most mechanics I know just go with "it feels tight enough" unless it's an extremely critical component like full engine rebuilds etc.

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Seth. No, no so much on there plastic parts. You are looking for even pressure on all the fasteners to make sure it seals all the way around. I only really get concerned with torque specs on cylinder heads.

[@AudiStormNS]

I checked out the Marine Engine website. Very slick. However, it says they only ship to the USA. Did they ship to Canada/Australia etc etc once upon a time?

[@DangarMarine]

They did a few years ago, but they have since been limited to the US region by their suppliers.

[@davegrandeffo330]

I learned to always pack the oil seal with grease so it doesn't run without lube in the beginning and smoke the seal.

[@thephaseshifter]

what coating you use?

[@Billyboy4209]

Do you have any videos of seal replacements on the seals where the motor meets the driveshaft? I have a 04 mercury that is getting gear oil up in the motor compartment

[@DangarMarine]

You need to remove the power head to get to that seal, but gear oil shouldn't get out of the gearbox at all. Sure it isn't two stroke oil?

[@Billyboy4209]

Dangar Marine yes I’m sure.it’s a 2004 Mercury four stroke efi motor

[@Billyboy4209]

Dangar Marine I thought it was motor oil but I checked my oil and they do not match. This stuff is black and nasty and the motor oil is not,it looks like it should.the motor runs great,I just noticed it as I was putting the boat away yesterday after a trip. I’m lost! Lol

[@DeepPastry]

Guess congrats on having steady work, so much so you forget what you've already done per engine... So just like you forgot you were the one to pop in the O-ring on that oil seal (the spring was totally missing), but those two O-rings on the shifter didn't look that bad because they were brand new to begin with. You had changed them out when you freed up the stuck shaft.

[@LarsonFishing]

I just drained the engine oil on my Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼

[@DangarMarine]

That level of oil contamination won’t have done any harm.

[@coopw101]

Thanks bud.🖒✌🖖

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. :)