18 000rpm + Metal powder in fuel =

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[@victorlockett816]

Fix a problem, find a problem. This is actually how the the 2 stroke cycle works.

[@chrisprobert6]

Can't change physics and .....?😂

[@nerd1000ify]

All of this nonsense is just further proof that 2-strokes are the work of the devil. Darn things basically function by black magic, and seem to drive people who try to tune them mad!

[@LoneWanderer905]

Facts.

[@Mustangschweinderl]

Hi. My company is specialized in roller bearings for high demanding applications. KTM MotoGP Department is our customer for example. We could offer you ceramic rollers for higher rpm. Thomas

[@123gtt]

Please offer him a donation bearings, I’d hate to see this channel go down, and all his and families hard work go to waste . What a story this will be if he gets this engine to the salt lakes and wins

[@willhall4631]

Boost

[@paddy2661]

Hi Thomas what's company name if sales to public or bearings brand name you manufacture ? I'd be interested myself for same application . Cheers.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I am pretty sure the needle bearings are not the problem here. The heavy cage is breaking through the oils film strength at those high rpm's, and rubbing on the inside diameter of the rod bearing surface. We have the same problem above 17,000 rpm with a 32cc engine from Zenoah,--with a much smaller bearing. Zenoah's smaller bearing handles up to 21,000 rpm, (30.5cc to 23cc). Just 2mm in diameter difference makes that difference.

[@ogKEGGY]

Honestly, I'm surprised it held up as long as it did.

[@waffleown4258]

Yea it's really been through some torture

[@afroaliens]

I`m not even mad, That`s amazing!

[@timothysink2442]

Yeah his engines screams don't it. I just wanna see him ride it lol

[@MrJermbob]

What that piston has seen too.... Dang..

[@flakey7832]

Focus on the kids man, they need their dad more than we need the content. Will wait for you to come back with some more fire content.

[@boziewz6125]

dont ever apologise for feeding the kids, your priorities are in order. do as one must.

[@J_W650]

Thanks for the entertainment you provide us with (even though it's frustrating for you sometimes)! ❤ And please don't feel any pressure to make content if you ever feel like you need to focus more on your private life!

[@david929190]

The first two stroke I rebuilt was oil injected. The injection had been bypassed in favour of premix. After that first top end rebuild I burnt out the bottom end because I didn't realize the oil injector pump had failed. Breaking things is part of learning, sometimes it's expensive.

[@andylewis7360]

The more expensive it is the better we learn. 😅

[@markthompson9914]

Had the same on my old GT185. No oil pump no oil 💥😂✌️🇬🇧

[@hedning003]

Ride it,break it,fix it,repeat

[@Springfield-1903]

I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos! Every time I drive past the Bonneville salt Flats, it reminds me of your dream to produce the world's fastest 50cc two-stroke powered motorcycle. When you succeed, I'll be there cheering you on! Also, I appreciate your openness and willingness to share what you have about your personal struggles. I believe it is healthy to talk about mental health and not stuff it away. Thanks for sharing your quest with us!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Good. I almost went nuts when obama got selected,---because I have communism. I feel better now. :) But I still hate what communism does to us.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

hate communism.

[@DerekWoolverton]

I used to rip headphone jacks on my stuff. Even if the pads are ripped, follow the traces back to the other components they connected to and solder a wire on there. Then just put a knot in the wire, and stick the pigtail out the opening and add a jack.

[@BjornWangNorway]

Ja, skrap over lakken og legg en lask rett på kretskort banen. Dette bør være grei skuring på overflate monterte kretskort. Klipp opp en nettverkskabel, mange gode kabler inni en slik for slike formål.

[@garytompkins2116]

I'm amazed the engine ran for that long with so much wear and damage. Good luck with the rebuild Alex 👍

[@AndrewJohnClive]

Keep your spirit up Chief. We know the story - I’m sure a lot of are in the same boat 😊. Just keep keepin’ on!❤❤

[@andersblomqvist2833]

Now is a good time to test some known motors on the dyno. You always wonder if it measurrs correct or not. Solve that question!

[@jediknight1294]

Probably the most sensible option runs that allow a comparison with a known dyno

[@rexhorning7228]

Thank you for making me feel like I’m not the only one that had bumps in the road. I always look forward to your videos. I have always wanted to build an in-line 4 cylinder with weedeater piston cylinders. Your awesome!

[@MrJermbob]

Everyone suffers sometimes.

[@ogKEGGY]

None of us care that you can't just blow all your money on parts. It's not like any of us can either.

[@MrJermbob]

Agree. Haha. Dying to blow some cash on bits myself atm.

[@ruikazane5123]

True that. My FZR400 needs a ton of things but so far...OEM oil filter and the air filter in custom fabrication. Still needs some engine parts, shocks and brakes front and rear. And it's been four years...

[@ogKEGGY]

@@ruikazane5123 it definitely takes time in real life. I bought a house and that put a massive damper on all of my hobbies, but that's fine. I've been putting together a pretty rad scooter out of super cheap leftover parts and deals I've found on parts from Japan. The problem with that is shipping. It's taken like two years so far, but I'm not in any rush.

[@amdyma]

Its been really great to watch you build this engine this far, even if for any reason you had to take a break from building i would 100% be back to watching as soon as you would start uploading again, however long that break would be. Love your attitude and honesty ❤

[@razor1uk610]

@2STROKE STUFFING ..I think you will need to think of a separate oil-pump direct feed for the crankcase main bearings, perhaps from an AR80, RD125, or a Suzuki RG (70's/80's eras of bike)?!? *Please remember* the *_Crankcase Locator Dowels_* when rebuilding this engine !!!!

[@malcrandall1309]

Good point re dowels. It also requires lubrication ports to the main bearings from the transfer throats.We must not forget this engine has a ultra low primary compression so poor low end lubrication. I also strongly believe the poor crank balance is a major factor to crank wear.

[@billshiff2060]

@@malcrandall1309 He has raised the ratio with a stuffer, which might have made lube on the big end harder.

[@malcrandall1309]

@@billshiff2060 Even with the stuffer fitted the primary compression ratio is still very low. Look how much volume there is in the transfer port ducts leading to very poor pumpimg action. Don't forget this engine wasn't designed to use pumping action but resonance which didn't get off the floor.

[@billshiff2060]

It depends on how the stuffer projections are placed in relation to the rotary intake flow path. I wasn't referring to the ratio itself. The stuffer might be deflecting cooling air/fuel and oil away from the big end bearing. Rotary valves already have a problem lubing the conrod, wouldn't take much to push it over the edge at 20000. The upside down layout also makes sure no oil settles in the "bottom end" now the top end. The typical lube ports from the transfers would actually drain the bearings.

[@malcrandall1309]

@@billshiff2060 Don't forget all bearings were damaged in this incident. The mains were only replaced a short time ago. Its the residue's from the carbon fibre DV that has done all this damage. I believe this is possibly the longest running crank Alex has had!

[@ASoftaaja]

Have you considered the possibility that the bearings were already gone before you installed the rotary valve? It would explain all the running difficulties you experienced. It simply couldn't run well because of the added friction from the fried bearing. They were probably worn out from oil starvation because of the high rpm. Normally moped cranks cannot take 17000+ rpm for long. To me it seems unlikely that the goo from the disc really did the damage. Many people have ran a carbon disc in an aluminium housing and I have never heard about this problem. Moreover, I think the big end oiling is going to demand extra attention for constant running above 17000rpm. It is really unknown territory. Maybe a titanium connecting rod could help there to reduce the load on the bearing. Or some extra oil injection directly above the bearing.

[@rkan2]

I feel like this is the answer. Maybe the wear accelerated a bit from the carbon goo, but this looks like not having much lubrication at all.

[@ruikazane5123]

Oil injection like old racebikes is the answer, but how reliable are those systems...

[@ericschumacher5189]

In Alex’s design there is no drillings that go between the bearing and crank seal down from the transfer tunnels in the cases (addition of these would help the crank bearings live a bit longer at least)….Making the rod bearing live longer will be tough on a side inlet rotary disk engine, because lubrication doesn’t make it directly to the slots / grooves in the big end of the rod like it would if the rotary valve or reeds was on the front of the engine (in line with the axis of rotation of the crank)…..I agree (ideally) supplemental oiling, or a way higher oil to fuel mix 6-8% might work as a bandaid fix (short-term)…….maybe trying the reed inlet design again once the crank is replaced would be a good idea to prove if rod bearing damage was the reason for poor running in recent video’s, not the other hypotheses discussed???

[@snocrushr]

I would suggest you adapt a rotary valve disc and drive gear from a Rotax 2 cycle motor as used in Ski-Doo snowmobiles. They also had a crankcase repair kit made of brass for when there was excessive wear caused by the rotary valve in rare cases. 🇨🇦

[@randygandee9674]

He won't listen.

[@jediknight1294]

Challenge will be weight I suspect. I'd try a DLC coating on the surface for a start.

[@snocrushr]

Well you know what they say about advice... A smart man don't need it and a fool won't take it 🤔@@randygandee9674

[@roehle9962]

A very experienced two stroke mechanic once told me that premix isnt ideal for rotary valves. Commercial rotary intake fed engine usually use an oil pump to squirt oil directly on the valve since premix is too diluted and the lubrication cuts off once the valve closes. Might be something to think about, especially with the extremely high rmp and experimental setup.

[@malcrandall1309]

Yes, your quite right. Thats fine if you have a oil pump systen installed. Mist lubrication has worked reliably for many years. The valve material's have to be correct which they aren't at the moment. I was putting my money on the crank not driving the valve true. PS, I can remember when Suzuki GB removed the oil pump off their works GT 750 bikes to save a little power and reliability suffered enormously back in the 70's.

[@rehepeks]

The pads are ripped but seems like a pretty simple pcb, solder it to the remains of the trace with some extra wire or follow it to the next component and solder a wire there.

[@bradley3549]

Agreed 100%

[@slateslavens]

yep. just glue/epoxy it back where it's supposed to be and use fine wire to connect it at the far end of the broken trace.

[@JGollez]

I would make cca 15cm cable and a connector on the cable, pcb mounted connector is not robust enough...

[@sparcnut]

@@JGollez Audio jacks and barrel power jacks hold up a *lot* better if they're epoxied to the board with 5-minute clear epoxy. As in, I've been doing exactly that for years and haven't had one break afterwards. (I've even started doing it as a "Day 1" mod - why even bother waiting for it to break first?)

[@JGollez]

@@sparcnut I would epoxy that cable on the pcb :)

[@ericschumacher5189]

Alex; have you considered bringing back the short explainer videos such as the “daily -stuffing” series? I’m asking this because it would allow you to have a more consistent / frequent upload schedule of videos, regarding things that you know that don’t take a huge amount of production value and up front work. There’s a lot discussed by Frits / Jan / Wobb on various forums that people interested in 2-strokes don’t know & could be explained succinctly in video format, which allows more sponsorship opportunities…..just some thoughts.

[@slateslavens]

that's not a bad idea. I'm a mechanic, but I'm not familiar with the subtleties of performance two-strokes. I mean, I knew the exhaust was important, but I had no idea _how_ important. Hell, for all I can rebuild motors, I can't even tune a weed-eater... :D

[@Kyosheen]

would love to see more 2 stroke theory to talk about and head scratching

[@florianlindinger6430]

I would love a advanced porting guide because i know a lot of stuff but i am sure he can teach al lot of us some things we can all improve on

[@malcrandall1309]

@@florianlindinger6430 Check out Alex's porting video's from 7-8 years ago on the SPX project.

[@florianlindinger6430]

@malcrandall1309 Thanks for the tips but i have already seen them I follow him since the spx project.

[@Eluderatnight]

Bearings have a surface feet per minute rating. Check the chart.

[@levix_the_birb]

The best channel uploads again!

[@MrTamiyacowboy]

you can fix the battery case where pads have come off, what you need is a needle/pen grinder. grind way some of the pcb to get down to the copper, use a good flux and some replacement pads, solder pads back down and use a conformal coating ( nail polish works well) , should fix it up enough to keep using it.

[@jdsstegman]

I have rebuilt plenty of 2 stroke cranks. And alot of them have zero play in the big end. But once apart, the pin looks like a gravel road!!

[@malcrandall1309]

Do you have any thoughts on what balance factor the crank should have on such a high revving engine with such a long rod. Alex has suffered with crank vibration issues going back to the SPX 8 years ago! I firmly believe crank balance is a major factor for gaining revs and reliability.

[@tylerm124]

You can scrape the silk screen off of the pcb along the trace and solder to that. The real easy fix would be to epoxy the headphone jack to the pcb and the run jumper wire to the lead of the next component along the trace for each ripped up pad.

[@darylpaynedrums8683]

Just what I was going to suggest!

[@TJPDmember]

Somebody give this man a band saw!! Sponsors are sleeping on this one 😅

[@mandtsharpe7538]

In the Kart 100cc engines we always ran a full synthetic oil at about 18:1 otherwise you would get all sorts of failures, this was for air cooled engines. I like where you mounted the exhaust probe - perfect. any high rpm readings yet. You are going well - hang in there dude :-) Matthew

[@malcrandall1309]

Yes very true. When I ran Bel-Ray oil in the 70's the mixing figures were massily lean in my air cooled 125 Yamaha race bikes. The pre mix Alex is using is mixed at around 50/1 I believe but runs Stihl strimmers fantastically well in commercial use 8 hour days. A little extra oil wouldn't go a miss in this tight tolerance engine. I was taught castor oil for the crank, synthetic for the cylinder. If I was running the Aspen premix, 50/1 run in period and 30/1 for testing and 25/1 full race mode. I think you ran a massive secondary compression 13/1 actual?

[@johnnykjaersgaard7978]

Good to see some improvement while we are waiting

[@NoNameCinema]

The "best?!?!" Engine/Bearing faliour i've ever seen. Congratulation 🎉

[@davidgierke7582]

You might consider plugging the two reed-valve intake runners (3d generated), since they probably contribute to the crankcase volume's resonance.

[@williambrodmanvi5944]

We utilize tappered shafts on snowmobile clutches and even tho there are pullers on the market! I have found and now completely rely on removing them hydraulicly by removing the retaining bolt and seeing to tip the snowmobile onthe opposite or mag side and pooring warm water down the threaded hole that i removed tge retaining bolt from and then simply apply 10 wraps of teflon thread tape to tge retaining bolt itself and simply see to threading of it back in until it has no choice but to see to releasing with that of a rather satisfying pop! This has proved to be a thus far for me a 100% reliable process! I hope it is or can be in the future of some aid to you!

[@davidgierke7582]

After some thought, I believe that you inadvertently damaged the anti-friction bearings (crank/rod) early-on when testing with the reed valves and r/c fuel. Never-the-less, it may be time to switch back to methanol for your fuel, and a minimum of 9% oil (3% degummed castor oil and 6% synthetic). Methanol offers a great cooling advantage over gasoline, but is hydroscopic-it attracts water-and causes the corrosion of both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Degummed castor oil will protect overheated bearings (and other engine components) from high temperatures by polymerizing into a protective varnish, while synthetics will simply burn. One thing about using oxygenated fuels such as methanol: the engine should be run dry of fuel after its last run of the day, and be doused with an after-run oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil. The combination of superior cooling and protection against high frictional temperatures should provide longevity to your bottom-end bearings. Best, as always!

[@Dgvgarage]

hi, an Italian manufacturer who had built a similar engine said that the solution is to put a perforated CERAMIC DISC screwed onto the crankcase made from a 0.4 mm tile, the manufacturer is GABRIELE GNANI

[@wfomph1435]

thanx for being such a good role model . keep it real

[@malcrandall1309]

Alex. While your waiting for your finances to arrive, would it be possible to check over the electrics on the dyno filters etc. Could I also re suggest drilling lubrication passages for the main bearings and a propper stinger tail pipe. We look forward to seeing you friday.

[@Pippy626]

Not sure how much it is to ship to US but I can replace the pads. You can use little copper wires to where the pads and traces go and solder leads, or grade down to the trace and resoder to the little traces.

[@randomoldbloke]

Considering it is oil vapour lubrication replacing the bearings should be a matter of course at a max of 10 hours run time . The more performance you get the less time the motor will last and something like moreys when assembling for initial lube .

[@malcrandall1309]

Since Alex has changed to over the counter pre mix the reliability has being brilliant. People must remember there are no main bearing lubrication ports in the crank cases and the primary compression is ultra low so poor mist lubrication. IMO the crank balance is very poor and with the longer con rod makes things worse!

[@RS-Racer]

Maybe a nice bit of sprung steel for the disc valve, a saw blade may warp when hot ?

[@goldengooch1867]

Jeez, that Mitutoyo gage couldn't have shown up at a better time!

[@eformance]

I can recommend the Hollyland Lark 150, it has 2 transmitters and a case that charges them. Just swap back and forth between transmitters to have continuous use.

[@RAWRMotorsports]

What is a micron 😂😂.. we read in thousandths over here 🤔 lol jkjk

[@Mybeardog]

HOT DAMN ! Good morning fellow motor heads.

[@AnthonyWratten]

I really enjoy watching your videos.

[@MrJermbob]

I love the triple intakes. You better be running all three when you work this all out haha.

[@Fee.1]

Have you considered taking some remote work doing design or troubleshooting etc.?

[@robertpierce1981]

Keep plugging away sir. Moving forward

[@allenl9031]

Impressive life to the Nikasil coating. Better method than what Chevy did with the Vega 2300 block.

[@markaddy53]

great job lad keep it going ul get there

[@vintagemotorcyclerepair4052]

All that bearing wreckage looks pretty bad, but, of course, is very fixable. It's when the rod breaks, or that little piston flies off the rod, that the real pain comes. Hoping that doesn't happen, but also hoping to see the aftermath if it does. And yes, man, that IS a proper prototype case!

[@raymondo162]

4:26: not grinding the zinc off was not such a good idea ...... i recently watched a yt vid: 5 ways to kill yourself while welding. top of the list is the clouds of vapour given off as the zinc evaporates. it's LETHAL apparently

[@billshiff2060]

Yes. Many such cases known. Also Cadmium plated steel too.

[@jediknight1294]

There's a trick to mitigate but it's nasty.

[@dutch_drive]

New microphone kit incoming next video!!! 🤑💰

[@flpsht]

For a Mic you might want to try the Hollyland Lark M1, great little wireless mic with noice cancellation

[@mrln247]

Square needle bearing rollers is impressive. I really want you to try the resonance setup with some trombone arrangement and tyat speedway carb not injectors. But step by step. See you next time.

[@h-j.k.8971]

The problem with big end roler bearings is that the rolers have to change speed on every revolution of the crank. The faster the crank speed the faster this change in speed has to happen. Thus through inertia the rolers start skidding on the pin and with increacing wear loose shape. Your black goo may have contributed, but then the main bearing should have also been damaged. Service the crank more often.

[@billshiff2060]

I'm not convinced your con rod bearings suffered abrasion wear. That would have produced small but still round needles, not flat or square. I think it might have been bearing skidding due to cage inertia. Maybe look into a lightweight cage or even cageless needles and/or increase the lubrication of the big end bearing?

[@sidecarbod1441]

I was thinking the same thing, the big end bearing has a really hard time due the the way that RPM of it increases and decreases every stroke, at high RPM you need very light but high quality big end bearings. Back in the day TZ bearings were and good upgrade for the RD350LC engines.

[@IanB22]

Still an amazing video.... keep it up!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

The lower rod bearing cage is too big/heavy for 18,000 rpm on an engine that size. The cage just floats, holding the needle bearings parallel, and the centrifugal force in the heavy cage breaks through the oil's film strength, and the cage rubs on the ID of the lower rod end bearing surface, turning the lower end of the rod blue. A 16mm dia. cage that we run has that problem above 17,000 rpm (32cc Zenoah RC car engine).

[@madeofscars9355]

Mate with how the economy is going just about everywhere currently we 100% understand you not being able to burn money on new parts, a vast majority of people are flat out making it week to week (myself included) heck you could continue punching out videos doing other unrelated stuff and we will still watch it start to finish purely to help get the funds to buy the new parts. Keep it up mate 👍 On another note as an engine machinist and seeing all kinds of catastrophic failures it's incredible it was still somewhat going even with the state of that b/e bearing that is absolutely insane I have never seen one butchered like that and still somewhat in one piece.

[@Bettinbig7024]

Cheers to all!!!

[@amirbasssystem]

Hi alex use a component leg cut it off use it instead of a pad and solder it directly do the trace 1:59

[@XfireKeenmike]

Loving your content.

[@mk1cortinatony395]

1st rule of pullers is use hand force not impact. Basic stuff.

[@AnonAmouse-em4mf]

excellent stuff mate!! cheers.

[@bernardmcnamara]

I have the tool you need for that job. Yes you need to thread the in side of the sleeve. There is several different methods. KTM fly wheel puller is different to Yamaha. But work on the same princeable.

[@stephenfrancisvoros382]

BLACK DEATH! We are much the same Alex, I'll have a go at fixing anything too, I mean if it's fucked, it's not like I'm going to fuck it more, most time's I find a way of repairing things, or find it just needs something replaced and good to go again, if I can't fix it, I'll learn from it all the same, then the item becomes spare parts and I replace it with new. Looking forward to the rebuild, that conrod looks shot, cooked well and truly.

[@htmotorworks799]

At 2:48 when you are tightening your lathe chuck, I think I saw it move up and down. Maybe your head bearings need tightening.

[@mrrooter601]

In regard to the mic, (without having looked at it anyways) it should still be easy to work around some fd pads. Depending on how bad it is, (and assuming its only dual layer with the jack pads on top) it might be easy to scrape a bit off coating on the traces that used to lead to the pads and just blob some solder around as a replacement. If that wont work there is absolutely no reason you couldnt run a few short wires from wherever the trace damage ends to where you need the jack and just cover it in epoxy/jbweld to hold it in place. In fact if this is a reoccuring issue, you might want to just open the new one and reinforce it right away. I totally understand not really wanting to spend much time on it, but it definitely seems fixable.

[@Blackthumbditch]

I love the experiment. If it was me I would junk the rotary valve and fit a supercharger straight into the inlet ports with fuel injection.

[@ІгорАлієв]

You can try to solder wires between board and jack of your broken microphone. With all your skills you'll definitely succeed. The only thing is whether it worth it like result/time/effort ratio.

[@MASI_forging]

Such a good place for work 😃😃

[@Leonn_.]

It's crazy how strong that pip cilinder is.

[@koenjanssen81]

Is it possible to tracé back where the traces of the 3.5mm plug came from and solder wires to them? That way you might even be able to reposition the plug to a safer spot......

[@mwasy2713]

Ah life stuff and more exhibits to the god of speed

[@mikekrodose123]

5 micron is .0002” pretty small number. What is the top to bottom. I used to hone for work with tappers less that .0002” over 3” length. Ceramic and carbide material was easy to hone.

[@jasonwishart6800]

sound is fine, don't sweat it

[@jamest.5001]

I have a crazy dumb idea, why not make the crankcase sealed!?!? Use the supercharger to start the engine and run it! Maybe machine a plenum leading to the transfers, allowing the intake charge to be stored there, then when the piston uncovered the transfers, it fills the cylinder really quickly. Like a capacitor in a circuit, a rough estimate, the plenum would need to be equal to the cylinder volume, I'd make a removable cover, that fits inside the plenum, about 12mm and hollow on the opposite side, so it can be flipped over, to add to the volume, just a rough guess add a 24mm x 40mm x 70mm and make shims to allow the volume to be tuned. I see this plenum looking similar to a scarf around a person's neck, if the cylinder was the neck. I could be wrong, the volume may need to be twice cylinder volume, or half, I do believe it will greatly effect performance, it will likely require a different cylinder, if the cylinder and transfers were separate all the way to the bottom of the cylinder. Then the passage could be blocked at the crank case the transfers accessed from the outside the plenum bolted /welded to the cylinder, use 25-30 mm tubing to connect the plenum to the supercharger/carburator, possibly incorporate a small oil pump on the supercharger, to oil the bearings in the crank case, maybe a couple small holes in the cylinder to allow oiling of the cylinder walls, a tiny hole or series of holes started from a single location. And possibly run a small trench in the bore, below where the ring travels, at a 30°-45° angle only about .030" deep, and . 030" wide with several . 020" oil holes inside, allowing oil to basically seep through the cylinder wall, all the holes starting from a single 12-20mm fitting, in a 9-16mm hole for oil, with one on each side of the cylinder front and rear, with a roughly .025" restrictor, and a bypass to limit flow according to throttle. Also using a sump on the bottom of the crank case to recover excess oil possibly still 2T oil, being it will likely still be burning some, as the upper cylinder is lubed, using mixed fuels, but can likely be run straight, id test this carefully though, still a rotor valve can be used to separate the plenum from the cylinder to get better (what would be event timing in 4t engines) I guess port timing, I guess a rotating pipe operating like a ball valve can also work, using a pressed on brass bushing, that has ring lands like a piston, alternating from a tight to bush fit, to tight to race, fitting about 4 rings about 3mm wide. with roughly a 2mm land to space them apart. Using a brass race to fit the bearing/seal units inside, a 50-65mm tube forming the valve using a roughly 20x70mm opening being the port, the whole thing in brass, with replaceable soft iron wiper seals, possibly having graphite cores as a self lubricant. Being inside the rotating valve, like the vanes in a rotary vane pneumatic motor, in die grinders and impacts, being about 1.5mm wide and may require a hard steel surface, possibly consider using chromed stainless to prevent rust and a heavy chrome coat is hard a .020"-.030" thick chrome should last a long time, with a soft graphite rubbing against it. Possibly look into making a similar valve for the exhaust, maybe opening an additional pipe, with a top end tuned exhaust, basically a 2stroke v-tec, have about 2-3 power bands kicking in, use a butterfly in the plenum, to double the volume to change the power curve, a boosted nitro 50-60cc engine making 100 HP + at 25k rpm. Running 30 psi boost, with a small dry ice to air intercooler, the air entering the carb at 10°f, using a pre cooler, circulating methanol through a water/air intercooler on the intake, with the methanol at dry ice temps. Possibly melt the dry ice in methanol. The air leaving the supercharger/ intercooler at 40°f. Possibly less, as it enters the engine! The 25-30 maybe 40psi boost, with a compress ratio of roughly 10.5-11.5:1 maybe reduce the compression to raise the boost, the next possibly would be to look at using a sleeve valve arrangement for the 2t intake! And possibly the exhaust, use 2t oil to cool the sleeve, with ceramic graphite seals around the ports, they will likely leak a bit, being 2t oil, it can lube the rings as it burns. Possibly have a ceramic labyrinth between the sleeve and the cylinder, with water in the cylinder, oil circulating in the ceramic labyrinth being cooled by the water jacket in the cylinder, aswell as a oil cooler, using 2toil, or 5w20, 0w20 or something, with a 100x200mm oil cooler, with a couple 100mm fans, and a 200x200+/- radiator holding roughly a 1gallon of water total. I'd like to build a twin cylinder, opposed piston like This, it should be smooth, even with non roller bearings and wet sump 2t with a ball like intake valve. I believe the plenum is a game changer allowing the cylinder to fill soon as the valve opened. Or piston clears the port, using a small supercharger with a bypass, then a turbo the power should nearly double, being the supercharger requires so much to spin it, and for starting it needs to produce 1-4;psi at 500rpm roughly to start the engine, and use the turbo boost to open the bypass! At possibly 3k rpm. Making a large power gain as the engine stops compressing air, freeing HP. Possibly as much as 40% , a 4hp gain on a 10 HP engine, I think is noticable! Especially over a roughly 500 rpm difference in the power band, and could be greater if the supercharger can be decoupled, by electric clutch or something. This is all adding up to alot of cylinder pressure thick cylinders and decks, possibly using triple o-rings two in the head one in the cylinder, 1mm tool steel hoops, with 1.5mm spacing between them, using a .015" copper gasket, with small o-rings around the 3mm water ports, about 4, around the cylinder , and 12 bolts 6 close to the cylinder. 6 around the perimeter. A 70-80 mm+/- circle for the inner bolt pattern, a 150-200mm outer bolt pattern, using m8 on the outside, using studs on the inner, from the crank case, with the actual combustion chamber being replaceable, basically a 55-65mm round disc with a m10-12 spark plug in the center, with the chamber just large enough for the plug. To allow the actual chamber to be in the center of the piston! The dead soft copper foil gasket. Should be reused several times, as long as it's not corroded, or damaged. I may get some poly foam, and start carving out the parts. To build one myself, maybe use a turbo, and a 72volt 2500 watt bldc motor to start the turbo spin it up to about 15 k rpm to get some flow into the engine, allowing it to start, a 16-18k rpm engine making 30-40 hp would be plenty on a scooter, convert a 4t to a 2t of this design, using a 40mm stroke with 65-70 mm bore , is more than 50cc the only thing better would be a two cylinder! 🤔 Sorry to ramble, but would you consider this design?

[@matteobazzurro1133]

Love all your videos❤

[@Few.Be.There.That.Find.It.]

Speed=friction=wear=imbalance=failure.

[@RS-Racer]

Just had a brain fart. Would it be possible to install a camera facing into the crankcase. I have never seen inside a working crankcase, may be impossible but very cool.

[@AxlMetcalf]

Life always comes first mate

[@hardstile20]

I did some 3d printed intake manifolds and couldn't get them to seal properly in-between layers, maybe I have issues with it too?

[@baiersworkshop]

Honesty first, i have no idea if this makes sense in your setup. But have you considered using Helmholtz resonance instead of a reed valve

[@billjacobs8035]

Necessity is the mother of invention!

[@roberthoffmann6603]

First Family !!!!!!!! Great Video again

[@tristanyseult]

Are you running fully synthetic oil in your premix? I have read that it can cause bearing skidding as it is too slippery for the bearings to grip and roll effectively.

[@hannurissanen9971]

The bottom bearing should be larger. If running 18 k and 20 hp the bearing should be bigger. Also it's possible to make a some kind on black nitriding or better surface in a bearing,

[@Singh_1989]

It would be really interesting to see you improve the Phantom 85 motorized bicycle engine. Not many people have success when trying to improve the design, but I think you could make something crazy with it.

[@jediknight1294]

Honestly the best improvement on that is replace it with something known to be more reliable like a Honda 125cc air cooled

[@ahovda]

Actually prefer the sound like this believe it or not since the bug mic (with the heavy compression) is somewhat tiring to listen to on headphones (to the point that I sometimes have to stop watching or take breaks). Not trying to bash, to me it just sounded more relaxed and open with the ambient microphone.

[@lucasmonks5767]

Awesome video

[@einhase6924]

It would be cool if you use your old intro music again

[@markrowley7955]

at 10.48 second i paused the video as it looked like there was a crack in the casing ?

[@raymondo162]

7:30: ease the taper off by heating it with a blowlamp to expand it..................

[@alexk_215]

Keep going 👏

[@MrMadeinthe80s]

Bypass the pads and go straight to the trace then epoxy that connector down on the mic box.

[@jurajkovac1770]

audio is actaully good imho

[@danimarti2000]

Nice video👍👍👍

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

No apologies required ! Get some note-paper and a pencil in your pocket, write down any thoughts, ideas, while you're away from workshop. 👍

[@jimforsyth2.]

Dry ice then a blast of heat

[@Fee.1]

What happened to 40k rpm? Are we still heading there? What would it take to make a triumph triple for example and make it rev to 18rpm ? Would that be doable without completely replacing the motor ?