£180 BOSCH Laser Level FAULTY | Can I FIX It?

I paid £9.50 for this Bosch Professional GPL 3 dot laser level, erm, thing. It has flashing/blinking red light error. Which the instruction manual says is either low power level or laser not aligned! Which will it be?!
Let's see if we can fix it!
Hope you enjoy!
Steve
PS. I'm not an expert in repairs at all. I do this for fun, and it may not be the best or safest way to go about repairing broken stuff. I'm pretty good at melting plastic though. Please don't copy me - I'm an idiot.
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[@StezStixFix]

Stupid Frickin' Laser Beams!

[@floranfauna3090]

I shot a laser out my bum once!

[@natevaughn2307]

Admit it, You just bought of because of the Stupid Frickin' Laser Beams! 😁

[@LegendSpecialist]

Nice video but but why don't you supply the main circuit with the right current? then the fault would be either one or the other. Happy New Year from Finland

[@timokayz]

I am a builder, and this was a super fun video for me, having several of these lasers. I don't game at all, but when you fix a gadget or microphone I am more engaged. In fact, I keep breaking a particular kind of mic that my students use and would love to send them to you to determine why they keep breaking, but I am in the US. Love the channel.

[@Alibm80]

Nice!

[@jsecret9459]

The Atmel chip is an AVR or microcontroller, a programmable chip, like a PIC type of chip, just from another supplier, I would assume the chip is pulsing the voltage, so the laser diode flahes. These units (and most others) flash when they're not level. So what you've done here is bypass the level indicator. The chip is programmable, this is done at the factory via the J1 header. So cannot just be replaced with of the shelf components. D1 is probably more likely to be a hall effect sensor, which is actually whats sensing the actual level. Once this gives a coarse level the pendulum finishes the job.

[@pdrg]

The flashing/pulsing of the laser diode is probably all about PWM so as not to overdrive the laser - the bodge may work now and see the laser fading quickly over time?

[@jsecret9459]

@@pdrg No, you're mistaking a PWM signal to reduce battery life and an intermittent flash. These units flash the laser to indicate it isn't level. If a led/laser/lamp is on at 100hz a PWM signal for instance of 50Hz will reduce battery usage by half and won't be seen as a flickering light by the human eye. While this chip is possibly using a PWM on the laser to increase battery life, it will be unnoticeable to a human eye.

[@InnerBushman]

D1 is infrared proximity sensor or sorts. You can see two "chambers" for the transmiter and receiver. Basically an IR LED and photo transistor in one package. I doubt there's any smarts in that part. The µC is doing all the heavy lifting.

[@M0UAW_IO83]

Not even a different supplier now, Microchip owns Atmel.

[@klaernie]

@@InnerBushman that sounds really likely to me. Maybe the IR led burned out (hence no forward voltage that could be found), and so the microcontroller is unable to find out that the pendulum stabilized, hence keeps flashing the laser to mark it as unreliable or out-of-bounds rotated.

[@AndrewMiguelez]

I believe you just bypassed the sensor/switch below the hanging laser assembly. Its job is to tell the board when the assembly is hanging freely. If you tilt the device too far, the assembly would hit the side and no longer be able to self level. I believe the issue lies in that sensor or its connection to the board.

[@alexanderlakey8483]

That device looked like a photodiode and led package, which I expect was supposed to detect a reflection off the laser yoke when it was in a certain position.

[@wardy2002]

Glad to see you kept a level head when you fixed it. Well done Steve

[@InnerBushman]

Good pun. To bad it's not actually fixed.

[@mart2611]

You can't beat a good old fashioned spirit to keep you on the level.

[@soybombzz]

I recently discovered your channel and I have to say Im absolutely hooked on your content. Stupid broken things. Cheers.

[@jacktheripper6716]

What for his hot tub streams they are the best

[@rickseiden1]

The "ATTINY" (pronounced Ay-Tee-Tiny) is a microcontroller. It's the little brother of the microcontroller used in the Arduino Uno. It could be replaced if it was bad, but you do need to program it. The six holes at J1 are the programming header.

[@ashleynery8092]

i don't have a bosch, but i assume they all work the same, it only flashes when its NOT level. the fact you are moving it and it isnt flashing says its not really fixed to me

[@FrostedMath]

Yeah exactly I would’ve liked if he tested it versus a plomb bob or another working laser level, he would’ve saw his mistake right away! Oh well that means we’re gonna get a revisit video on it soon with a more permanent/working fix

[@chrisboswell5568]

The Bosch ones flash with low batteries as well, the battery terminal springs are quite weak and I've fixed this exact issue on quite a few just by simply pulling them a bit to hold the batteries really firmly

[@XrentonX17]

I agree but since it's just a pendulum wouldn't it still give a accurate reading as long as the pendulum is working. Again not fixed just forced on basically but as a bodge job it would work

[@trevorhaddox6884]

The red and black wires are the power directly to the laser itself, they were pulsing since the laser was flashing. By putting power to them, the controller is totally bypassed. Also, D1 was not a diode as others pointed out but a sensor, it may have been the cause and putting a random diode there wouldn't do anything. However, with no part number on it, it would take awhile to find the right part, if possible.

[@llkooldave6492]

I have a Bosch laser level (not this laser pointer but very similar) mine has a 3 stage on/off switch… 1=off 2=fixed or locked laser 3=self levelling. When it is in ‘self levelling’ it will flash until it has found its level. So it may be fixed but he had it the locked mode (2)

[@Yoyo-me]

Hi Steve I remember some time ago, I repaired a similar laser beam level And.. Of course... Had the wires from the electronic to the lence ( diode) broken This is happening when the level itself is transported without the lock pushed... Mine had a lock handle; when pushed, block the lence to not move, vibrate during transport. If you forget to lock it... After a while, the wires get broken Cheers and Happy new year!!!

[@timehunter9467]

That makes perfect sense, just a thing that happens if you don’t pay attention.

[@m4nt1c0r3s]

@@timehunter9467 no thats a thing that happens when you are lazy with the design, and put a hair size wires in the way of moving parts and not secure/route them properly.

[@timehunter9467]

@@m4nt1c0r3s I’d have thought it needs wires that thin to stop it affecting the movement of the weight, it’s annoying to use wires thinner than 0.1mm though. Should have used a sliding contact like a potentiometer uses for moving parts, it’s not the design’s fault if someone forgets to use the lock thing though.

[@JustinEmlay]

All of my laser levels lock when they are turned off. More to the point of m4nt1c0r3s about lazy design.

[@BTW...]

@@timehunter9467True... ultra fine solid strand Cu wire sux for an application like this. Cu work hardens quickly, then breaks easy. I'd fix using fine stranded silk insulated wire used in phonograph tone arms.

[@whodatdere1]

I am sure that D1 is a magnetic prox sensor of sorts so the little microcontroller makes the LED go a blinky if it isn't level.

[@pixelpuppy]

does this mean he basically bypassed the microcontroller, and the leveler isn't level?

[@Ragnar8504]

@@pixelpuppy More likely it doesn't know if it's level or not and simply on all the time.

[@whodatdere1]

@@pixelpuppy More along the lines of if the laser is more than 15 degrees off level, the light will go blinky because it won't auto level anymore. Just a fancy end limit is all

[@BTW...]

@@whodatdere1 It doesn't 'self level' like professional long distance building site devices that 'self calibrates' then locks with reference to the tripod mounting base that can be well out of level. All this does is constantly 'self level' due to the pendulum. The flashing indicates it is out of that 'self level' range.

[@TokyoAzzA]

It has been great to watch your channel grow so much in 2022, I hope you have another fantastic year in 2023! Your videos are funny, interesting and educational - you’ve come out of your shell a bit, found your groove and deserve every bit of success you have from making this great content for us!

[@robear0135]

I suggest you research your components rather than just replacing what you think it is. This can do more harm than good. As others said, D1 is most likely some type of measurment component under the pendulum. I would say it is like a Hall Effect sensor and the pendulum has a small magnet under it. Once the pendulum is level, then this switch would turn on the lasers. I also suggest that with your bodge fix , then the unit will never be level as others have said, you just bypassed the levelling components/switch. As an Electronic engineer, I do like most of the ways you go about trouble shooting, but this one, needs a little more time to fix properly.

[@BuyitFixit]

Agree. Opto sensor or hall effect sensor to tell the microcontroller that the unit is within acceptable "level". A rotating level I looked at a couple of months ago had similar but it actually tilts the head into the correct alignment with motors, it was a lot more complicated.

[@chrisboswell5568]

I've fixed about 10 of these, I just pull the springs a bit to get a better contact. Has worked every time so far, the Bosch ones don't like being dropped, seems to compress the battery spring terminals

[@teropirttimaki]

that + what can happen, if you drop it a lot. the power button gets smashed on the underside.

[@tambias]

Great bodge job mate,love your honesty and your downright inability to give up.

[@samuellopez-je9nw]

I used this alot working as an electrician laying out pipe racks and conduit runs floor to ceiling. Mark lighting layouts on the concrete/flooring very handy. Test it with a good old simple plumb bob

[@frankurmom8741]

You assume steve knows what that is lol jkjk

[@BTW...]

Likewise - I've an identical device and used it for the same purposes. Very handy for locating downlight positions on a ceiling from measurements marked on a floor or bench top due to the plumb top/bottom dot. This is a Bosch Professional/Industrial class device... not the cheaper low grade handyman stuff they make. I've lower grade 'cross hair' projected line laser levels (horizontal/vertical), for different tasks like tiling or determining fall of roof guttering and concrete decks over a long distance.

[@Rukyr99]

Thanks Steve for many hours of entertainment and honesty. Together with BeardMeetsFood you helped me through some tough months in 2022. Wish you all the best for 2023 and we hopefully see (and hear, because I love your DIY raps) much more of you. 👍👍

[@skonkfactory]

I'm about 90% sure that the "diode" you removed is a reflective optointerrupter and it's supposed to sense a reflection off the bottom of the pendulum.

[@JJayzX]

He also wasn't even measuring it properly if it is a dual diode package. Then went on to solder on diodes but to just solder bridge a short. 😵‍💫

[@101fng]

That’s exactly what that looks like. What do you want to bet the fault was purely mechanical in the pendulum mechanism?

[@skonkfactory]

@@101fng I'd guess the little reflective sticker got dirty or fell off the pendulum.

[@samuraidriver4x4]

The ATTINY was doing its job in flashing the laser on and off so thats not at fault.

[@edcoster7111]

Recognize this also. Detects a reflective surface. (Also used in point of sale printers to detect if paper is present. Good luck. The two shiny surfaces on this 'diode' are intact an infrared transmitter and a receiver neatly in one package. Make sure these surfaces are clean and not blocking the IR light. The reflective surface it's aimed at should not be to close! I believe > 2mm.

[@PeteMcDonald]

Great video as always Steve, I wish you could be here to hear me out loud rooting for you when you're making progress! Hope you have a great NYE and can't wait to see 2023's repairs!

[@strybullet]

I use those at my work all the time and have fixed a couple DeWalt ones. I do aerial rigging and it marks the ceiling for where you need to put your support drop in. You set your cable and make sure the point coming down is right where the laser hits it from the floor we are usually working about 50 feet up in a Convention Center.

[@TheLastPhoen1x]

The first little wire broke suspiciously in the place on the "pendulum" where the metal sticks out the most. It looks like it was shaken around and the pendulum crushed/pinched the wire against the chassis.

[@manbuilds1587]

That little wire turns the laser on to flash when pendulum hits the side. He was looking for the wrong kind of failure. It is a mechanical failure not an electronic one.

[@snik2pl]

This diode thing is ir transmiter and reciver. Proximity sensor. It probobly looks at pendulum to see if its not tilted. Malybe reflective part broke of pendulum

[@aleksandarvasilevski7410]

Reflective photosensor is probably google therm to search for.

[@Theseanparker]

You make what could be a mundane project really interesting, and that's a real skill! Thanks for all the videos in 2022 🙌

[@Inugamiz]

The blinking beam means the pendulum is not leveled (By manual instructions) so I think you bypassed that with the jumper wire.

[@terrylaze6247]

Was just gonna say that, now the laser is always solid even when you are moving it around so the level is not showing any "levely-ness" now it's just a fancy laser pointer.

[@jcon6734]

@@terrylaze6247 Yeah, but as long as the pendulum is swinging freely and gravity is working, the laser is going to be level.

[@manbuilds1587]

Yah he was looking for wrong king of failure. It was a mechanical failure. He rendered the laser more broken than when he started.

[@realnutteruk1]

The coil on the pendulum swinging between the two magnets will generate a small voltage, which disappears when the pendulum finally settles down....

[@realnutteruk1]

Or maybe it applies a small current to the coil to damp its motion, and make it settle more quickly? Maybe it's a combination of the two!

[@MarkGFRex]

Great to see a longer video for a change. Keep up the good work 👍🏻

[@richardwebb9060]

Looks to me like that 4 pin component is an opto sensor. 2 pins for transmitter and 2 for receiver. Qre1113r would be a good place to start

[@chromatiCityGame]

Seems that you are right, "basic" ir sensor with transmitter and receiver to detect the pendulum position/movement.

[@bernardpucelli176]

These videos help for my anxiety and let me sleep ..cheers Steve.

[@tjernstarr]

Foreman carpenter here. Your laser isn't fully functioning. It may serve it's propose for now but it should also blink when the unit is too far out of level for the gimbal mechanism to compensate. Your level looked like it came with a decent bubble level on it so maybe it would still work for some people but you really should test it for plumb and level before selling it as functional.

[@stephanekaufmann411]

Strangely compelling ! I know nothing about electronics and I never was into video games. Yet i find these videos oddly satisfying to watch! The fact that things get fixed and cleaned up… Also the host is fantastic ! And the songs! 😂

[@lavatrout]

Wow! What a finicky little thing! No idea why its so complicated if its just some lasers mounted on a pendulum, but good fix! I would have been rightly stumped if I opened it up and saw no damage to the main board. Good catch on those diodes and wires, and even greater idea to route the voltage directly!

[@--Animal--]

the fact that people will pay 200 GBP for laser pointer attached to a pendulum is a bit scary.

[@klaernie]

I think the complexity comes from determining if the laser is actually level or out of bounds and resting against one of the walls. While the laser is working now, unless you see the pendulum swing and stabilize, you now won't know, if the laser is actually level.

[@Mekazas]

That device you removed is an optical detector for the pendulum. It is two different components in one, one side an infrared led, the other side a I.R. detector.

[@nmills5367]

My understanding is that the lasers draw lines showing level and plumb, not just points like that. I hope you return to this, very interesting seeing you troubleshoot this.

[@simonolphin]

I was screaming at the video!!!! You have it Steve!! You have the problem! You can fix it!!! 🤣🤣 Nice vid again Steve! 👍

[@rob1130ob]

My man, I wanted to become a Holy Hand Grenade patron but it patreon says your sold out.

[@oldbustedhotness5994]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. not fixed. simply bypassed the level indicator warning circuit. Wouldn't trust the level accuracy at all. Still a fun video. Thanks for the laugh.

[@StilgarAstartes]

Nice Job! To be fair - these enameled wires were far too thin for my liking. As some commenters already wrote, the wire snapped suspiciously close to the hinge of the pendulum - it could have been sheared/weakened by the pendulum because someone forgot to lock the travel/transport safety. Might have been avoidable if Bosch had used a thicker wire. That board on the other hand I can't make rhyme or reason of. Weird. Oh, and happy 2023! May it be a better year than the last ones...pretty please! :)

[@MatthewBryce]

The wires are fine so they don't interfere with the pendulum moving

[@drruncmd]

I love the way you knew to test the batteries in circuit. As opposed to the common mistake of checking the voltages with the batteries not under load, brilliant! And yeah, i learnt that from the one and only, Mr.Eevblog himself. Kudos to you!

[@bigsqueegie]

We use these on the railway to get relative levels from the adjacent tracks. So many uses!

[@i.c.e-addiction]

I use the same one, the laser should have started flashing when you tipped it on the side. Maybe the voltage reduces as the pendulum tips at a certain point, possibly through the negative rail. Also, mines starts flashing approximately 30 seconds before it shuts down from low batteries.

[@M0UAW_IO83]

The 4 pin 'diode' is a reflective sensor, IR LED one side, Phototransistor the other, when there's something IR reflective in close enough proximity it 'switches' on (or off), they're quite easy to get hold of (once you know what you're looking for). Costco batteries, used to buy loads of their AA/AAA but almost every single time I've used them and let them get low I've ended up tearing stuff apart and cleaning up leaked electrolyte. I'm using CPC Pro-Elec cells and batteries now, so far so good plus they're cheaper...

[@maxwarfield6699]

About the “reflective sensor” you mentioned, isn’t that like an opto-isolator or an opto-coupler? Please let me know, I’m trying to learn. Thank you kindly

[@M0UAW_IO83]

@@maxwarfield6699 Pretty much, yes, you get reflective ones, slotted ones etc. The one in that Bosch looks a bit like a CNY70 but obvs. no idea of the actual sizes, it could be the exact same type, a tenth the size or ten times larger etc.

[@maxwarfield6699]

@@M0UAW_IO83 Cool! I didn’t know there was reflective ones and slotted ones but then I still have a lot to learn about electronics. Thank you kindly, for replying. Cheers mate!

[@KorAllRBare]

* Yo StezStix Fix..* Probably wrong about this, But I suspect the pendulum's magnet or metal near the coil should change the coils voltage which is fed to a circuit to keep the laser steady.. As you can you imagine if the laser line is not kept rock steady the laser level line would be useless if it not kept rock steady. EG: As someone walks nearby the vibrations from the footsteps are countered by the pendulum's movement from the footsteps within the coils field, ergo the fields voltage changes to counter and keep the Laser rock steady by feeding a voltage that pulls the laser gimbal counter to the actual vibration's momentum. Thumbs up Guys, If that's probably why the wild voltage changes are present..

[@insu_na]

It's kinda uncanny how much you and Tomska look alike. Congrats on getting the thing working again!

[@ApostatesStink]

The Miracle worker strikes again.

[@sonnyjimm23]

Wow, is it just me or do those battery springs look hella flexy 😧. For a premium product like Bosch that's honestly shocking. I had a battery spring issue with some "premium" ($180aus) Xmas solar lights recently, replaced all the battery terminals with better ones and it fixed all of the issues. Meanwhile my 6 year old $50 ones have never skipped a beat. Great work as always mate 👍.

[@JustinEmlay]

Bosch went the same direction as everyone else. More and more of their product is becoming cheap junk.

[@claimhsolais3466]

I love your shirt. Happy new year!

[@simonlunt353]

Well it looks like it’s working 🎉😊well done Steve 😮😊see you next time 👍

[@steveirvinejr1672]

Just buy one for 180 return the faulty one get money back job done

[@Nobe_Oddy]

I think this one was HILARIOUS!!! I had so much fun watching... GREAT JOB!!!!

[@SmoothEmJay]

MAD respect for; 1. Fixing it 2. The "BAD" cover at the end 🤣😂

[@travelingduo7523]

@StezStixFix that “diode” is an optical sensor. Search for QRE1113 and you’ll see that its a really similar component. That sensor sits underneath the gimbal, and I’m pretty sure that on the bottom of the gimbal is a reflective piece. If the gimbal is not centered, the light emitted from one of the sides of the diode is not detected by the sensor on the other side of the diode, and it makes the laser flash. It can be that the light sensor diode is faulty or the reflective piece is missing / dirty.

[@masterbard]

"I wish I knew what I was doing" words to live by. I ask myself the same question every day!

[@Enjoymentboy]

I'm actually rather disgusted that they would have the nerve to charge £180 for that thing.

[@kenny9648]

I'm always making a game out of it to guess the end credits song. This time I got it right again. Thanks for your entertainment, Steve.

[@wherami]

Another improvement on factory. Always impressed

[@johnseagram2318]

I think the unknown diode that was replaced is actually a reflective optical sensor - without seeing the underside of the copper bar at the bottom of the pendulum I don't know for sure. The thin copper wires just provide power to the laser diode on the pendulum. The microcontroller will pulse power to the laser diode if either the voltage is too low or the sensor beneath the pendulum can't detect the copper bar. The laser level is 'self levelling' in as much as if the sensor detects the copper bar in a suitable position then the pendulum is hanging freely. If it doesn't detect it then the pendulum has reached gimbal lock (i.e. the pendulum is touching the case) and the microcontroller will pulse power to the laser. By bypassing the pendulum position sensor you have effectively made the level no better than three laser pointers taped together at 90 degrees to each other.

[@obsidianpanther]

Happy New Year Steve!! The secondhand endorphins from seeing you get something working is so much fun.

[@trickyfocus]

Enables precise transfer of a reference point from the ground to the ceiling.

[@fitterhappiermoreproductiv2172]

Watching a long video of you fixing something and when you apparently did it, you come out with a "I don't even know what this is used for". That was hilarious. Happy New Year!

[@NexisTech]

I've actually been looking to get one of those levels. lots of uses. electricians can use them to install lights in specific places. say if you wanted a pendulum light centered over a table. just find the center of a table, place that level on the mark and you have the spot on the ceiling of where to mount it.

[@WizardTim]

Your repair just bypassed the transistor that flashes the laser, it's impossible for it to flash now so you'll never know if it's out of the self leveling range or has low battery. The voltage on the laser you measured was fluctuating because it was flashing the laser, this isn't a fault, also because the laser was working and flashing it also means those two thin wires were always intact. The programmable MCU was also working because it was able to flash the laser, however the ADC inputs could be damaged. The 'diode' you took out is a combination LED (light emitting diode) and photo-transistor as part of an infrared proximity detector, it detects when the balance is out of it's self leveling range, replacing it with two diodes will just render the self level detection non-functional. I see in the video there's two different flashing speeds for the laser, fast means it's out of the level range, slow means the battery is low, it appears to be failing with slow flashing mode. The previous owner might have put the batteries in the wrong way around the fried the input of the ADC on the MCU or there's a bad soldering joint from manufacturing in the voltage divider resistors for the MCU ADC.

[@markdobson2225]

only just come across your channel, really enjoy your vids.subbed👍

[@damienkearns9922]

Great fix - if you are trying to think of a slogan for your next merch - "I wish I knew what I was doing!" 🙂

[@MGeniusNinja]

Well done! Have wonderful holidays!

[@StezStixFix]

Thanks M.! Same to you 👍

[@pootnannies]

what a coincidence. i was reading about plummets/plumb bob late last night and the next day your doing a video about a modern day plummet!

[@grahamcowen473]

Love you show Steve think great wish I could meaned things like that

[@AKTad]

After discovering your channel I’ve binged a bunch of videos. I really like the more practical electronics and usually skip over the video game stuff since everyone seems to make videos about PS5’s or whatever. Good stuff though!

[@Dukefazon]

My guess is that the circuit has some feedback from the pendulum and flashes because it's not getting the right signal, that's why the voltage keeps jumping. The fault is probably on the other end of those teeny-tiny wires, under the hotglue area.

[@rcboosted]

I have a feeling the level was shaken and weakened the enamel wire and coating and shorting it to the pendulum? Then that fried some parts (diode or that switch you bypassed?) and when you touched the wire, it broke. All wild guesses, glad you got it bodgey working!

[@adiposerex5150]

Well done. You toughed it out.

[@SouthendLad600]

Happy new year Steve. Hope you have a great 2023.

[@Coops630]

I have a fairly new Stanley brushless drill driver, with a fault. Couldn’t send it back, as I don’t have the receipt anymore and Stanley weren’t very helpful when I contacted them. It hasn’t been dropped or abused, but it just doesn’t work. When you push the trigger the white light comes on for a second, but the drill doesn’t work. Obviously I want to keep the drill if possible, but would you consider fixing for your channel and as long as it is cost effective I pay you. Many Thanks Trevor

[@8antipode9]

That little ATTINY microcontroller chip probably is what monitors the battery voltage and flashes the laser. I don't think you needed to replace the diodes. You are right about the ATTINY, you can get a replacement but then you have to program it. I made a little LED dice roller from an ATTINY that gives you a 1 through 6 when you push a button. Bypassing it was a valid "hack", it just loses that low-battery functionality.

[@colinboneham7387]

Happy New Year Stez & viewers

[@g35fastcoupe]

Thanks!

[@JimNicolaus]

That will work, the LED flashs if it leaning so far it cant swing. you can poke it to see if the pendulum swings and the laser moves then you know your getting a good laser. Great videos and keep spiting those raps.

[@dibblesdva]

Have subscribed cos i thinks like you just havent experimented to your level love it

[@lilmisssandi]

i use these for work ,love ur show make my try to fix stuff too xx keep it up xx

[@XBOXTimeDevil]

Perseverance! Trust yourself

[@letthetruthbeknown]

Happy New fixing Year Sir.

[@harz426]

Taking it to a whole new level I see.

[@edwardsmith9049]

Congratulations 🎉🎉🎉 to you. You are the reason I take stuff apart. Thank you again so very much. Again thank you. Happy holidays to you and your family.

[@walter9724]

Bosh blue is the tradesman quality ones. Bosch green is the home DIY ones and are not very good at all. I used to work for a hardware store here in Australia and we used to get a lot of Bosch green tools returned. Bosch also owns Dremel.

[@smiley800]

You didn't have the frickin' laser beams attached to your head. Happy New Year. Thanks for sharing all of these videos this year.

[@DEmma1972]

Happy new year to all. Idid think there seemed to be a lot of white crystal on all the contacts as if it had been dropped in some salt water. Maybe give everything a good clean and also remove the broken wire as it may still be making contacts somewhere it shouldnt

[@alexattewell8607]

Fun to watch again. Absolutely love your videos. I'm sure these things are ment to cast a line up and down the wall and are used in such things as tiling etc. I may be wrong though

[@andreasu.3546]

Also comes in handy when hangig kitchen cabinets. Or even pictures on a wall.

[@pds8475]

RS have the wrong datasheet on their page but it is 8-bit Microcontroller with 1K Bytes In-System Programmable Flash. So you couldn't simply replace it. Pins 1-3 and 5-7 are programmable with pin 4 being a ground and pin 8 being VCC. Pin 1 can be used as an active low reset which would mean that the voltage on that pin would be above 2 volt(Logic 1) or the chip would be unstable or if the voltage was below 0.8 volt(Logic 0) the chip would be in reset. Pin 2 can be a clock pin but you would see a crystal on the board if it was being used as a clock and I don't remember seeing one in the video.

[@Greg_Watchorn]

Ahh a nice one to finish off 2022, thanks Steve😃

[@StezStixFix]

Thanks Greg! 👍

[@startrek9394]

Happy New year Steve hope 2023 is a good one for you

[@pomonabill220]

That double diode is and led emitter and a photodiode. It is used to detect a reflection from the LED back to the photodiode. It must be put in correctly to work.

[@jivillain]

Happy New Year handsome Steve

[@OneMHz]

I wonder if it wasn’t a diode but some kind of relay or something that let it switch the laser on/off when the (guessing) Hall effect sensor told it the pendulum was out of position? Honestly the flashing is too sensitive and you can probably figure out if it’s too far off level without it anyway.

[@blueskies25]

"Wish I knew what I was doing" is something I think halfway during all my projects

[@robinsutcliffe-video_art]

One of my favourite Steve! "If I at least put Diodes in . . ." I love it ! Happy new year : ) Thanks for the entertaining content

[@Boogie_the_cat]

Those 3 stubby posts are for the laser diode. 1 positive, one negative, and a third one (which is optional) that is used for a photodiode to regulate the laser brightness due to how much light is being backscattered from the diode. for future reference, most red laser diodes (in consumer products) run at 3 or 5 volts.

[@hove131]

Sharks with friggin laser beams on their heads Scotty!!!

[@rciancia]

Well done, but I have to LEVEL with you... You probably could have called Bosch and got a free replacement under warranty, but..... then we would not have seen this video... so BRAVO Mate

[@Popeyes66]

Love the voice tuning on the word " solid " Steve. Alex on Northridge Fix has put a price on your head i hear 😂

[@SixtyDoesStuff]

I feel like it's been a while since we had a long StezStix video! I have nothing to contribute, this was a lot XD

[@drruncmd]

Sorry, commenting whilst watching. Sometimes the hot snot can go off and possibly give some minute capacitance or go conductive slightly?? Well finished watching and my guess is the voltage that was changing was probably the oscillator for the pendulum to swing. I think youve bypassed the laser calibrating stage completley but great video.

[@BomberMan-2012-]

It is indeed interesting, great video as usual and belated happy new year

[@chrisgravedigger]

when you move into a new house and your other half wants a new wall up you can make good use of it. or when you build your big shed in the garden to put all your stuff in 😉