#180

[@MaxKoschuh]

"a loud fan, which is entirely unnecessary, is NOT GOOD for my mental health" quote of the century 👍👍👍👍👍

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@Conservator.]

Initially I was thinking an Arduino, temp sensor and pwm but that would cost >>$1. Very nice and simple solution! Cheers!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@ESTD3]

Well.. attiny85 is around 1.14 usd dollar. Thermistor 10k one pcs is like 0,04dollars and one mosfet is like 0,17 dollars per piece and if you take all these things into consideration then that switch and the arduino method is roughly the same price :D The switch being 12 cents cheaper over all :)

[@mikegleasonjr]

I made one with an attiny85 with variable speed depending on the temperature. I should document it somewhere

[@ufohunter3688]

I tried this exact method but didn't like it. Use an ATTINY85, a 10K ohm thermistor glued to the heat sink, and a MOSFET to turn on the fan using PWM. It works great, as I can vary the fan speed based on the temperature, and also program a hysteresis. None of which I could've done with a thermal switch alone. I used it on my own linear lab power supply. When I draw an amp, I can hardly hear the fan. When I draw 5A, the speed of the fan is half of full speed. At 10A, it kicks in high gear and full speed. Best of all, I can incorporate this design in all my future projects.

[@ESTD3]

If you don't share the code and circuit design now, then i'm going to be really dissapointed.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Another good solution for a broader application.

[@mlindholm]

I agree with ESTD3, you should share! Sounds quite useful and simple.

[@ufohunter3688]

@undefined lastname, exactly. If my code didn't have other stuff, I'd list it.

[@mikapirinen2403]

Or you can use 2 switch, 40c switch connect fan with 100ohm resistor and 50c switch close serial resistor and 40c switch (both for security reason, if 40c switch not close),. www.aliexpress.com/item/KSD9700-250V-5A-15-150-Degree-Bimetal-Disc-Temperature-Switch-Normal-Open-Thermostat-Thermal-Protector-60/32836695186.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.OPT43a

[@tonbovee5486]

Hi Andreas, I have used your solution in my projects and in some cases the fan comes on late or too late. In that case, to control the fanspeed, I use a LM2596S Buck converter about $1.- this converter has a 330ohm resistor and a 10K potm for regulating the output voltage) I replace the 330ohm with a 5K NTC which I glue to the hottest point in my project. The fan runs normally slow and speeds up depending on the temp at the NTC. Works great and worth trying.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Very innovative idea! Maybe I will use it in one of my projects.

[@CliveChamberlain946]

*slight mod* (hope you don't mind me sharing it..) For those with access to cheap centrifugal fans (such as reliable Nidec or Delta fans on older pentium D PC's), open a 40mm hole in the case bottom and mount fan directing air flow toward the heat sink. Use a zener diode to drop the voltage to an inaudibly low rpm (hot air still exits case as normal). If high speed is required, bypass zener with Andreas' switch solution allowing the high speed. Since these types of fans are inherently low noise, it still won't bother you on high. Note: these fans benefit from a bottom paper or wire screen filter to keep from sucking up debris inside impeller.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for the tip.

[@kioanakos]

Ideally the manufacturer will add a PWM driver for the fan in order to regulate its speed according to the temperature.

[@EchoMeinName]

kioan the problem with solution could be that the fan is on a 40% pwm signal louder than with 100%. That men that the fan should run with such pwm single and this fan should be cost more

[@AndreasSpiess]

PWM in this case is maybe an overkill

[@kioanakos]

You can reduce the noise in a PWM driven fan by slowing the slew rate of the PWM drive signal. This can be accomplished by adding a small capacitor to the base of the PWM switching transistor.

[@GeekMustHave]

I wondered why I was going crazy, now I know it's the fan in the DPS3015. I tried isolating the fan from the case with some rubber grommets but that only helped the noise a little bit. Thanks for the tip on the Normally Open Bi-Metal switch. Keep Broadcasting!!

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are welcome!

[@alterratz665]

Great solution against a completely unnecessary nuisance. Thumbs up!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@kiranschannel]

I came to know about another new sensor from you. This will completely eliminate a microcontroller, sensor and a switching transistor for a simple application like this. Awesome!!

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks

[@vaguedirector_7342]

I've got the buck-boost one attached to my 12V solar system. Added a resistor to the case fan, it works well.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for the tip

[@EchoMeinName]

Hi, i have the DPS5015 and the fan is aggressive even in the bigger case they are sold to me. This solution is a very good idea and I will use it too. My dps run with a 48V 7.5 A power supply and the power supply has already a temperature fan solution. Keep going to be a KZbin maker and give me so many more ideas. Lovely greets from Germany 💟

[@AndreasSpiess]

The fans in the PS are another problem. I placed mine below the table

[@Larivee15]

I purchased a used Netgear GS748T switch cheaply on eBay. It has three fans which run continuously and are very loud. In my home environment It will never get the traffic it was designed to have in an office and probably will never overheat without the fans. Installing this cheap solution will be the perfect solution in my home environment.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@tonbovee5486]

Tx Andreas, I connected the input Lm2596s to 15V in one of my Electronic Dummy Loads rather then 12V , when the (cheap)fan starts "Roaring" you know things are getting (too)Hot! Have Fun filming.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks.

[@Regimantas_Baublys]

Thanks :) Same problem with PSU fan. Now i can easy fix noise problem :) Nice Bimetal Disc exist in both N/O and N/C configuration :)

[@AndreasSpiess]

Good to know. Thanks

[@bitluni]

Nice idea. You could probably use it without the heat shrink putting it on the ground wire. The direct contact would conduct the heat faster preventing overheat on puny heat sinks

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are probably right. But I was not sure and too lazy to check. But 45 degrees are quite low and speed therefore not critical

[@mlindholm]

Andreas Spiess I agree, 45C should give you quite a buffer before it hits a critical temperature.

[@bitluni]

Don't bother probing. Any hardware putting Vcc on a heatsink should die :-D

[@bfx8185]

The simplest solutions are the best solutions ! Thumbs up!!!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@cymeriandesigns]

I was sitting with a cat in my lap when you tested the bimetal switch. Ouch.

[@AndreasSpiess]

I can imagine. Sorry!

[@cymeriandesigns]

Not a problem, it has happened before with KZbin videos. One of the hazards of cat companionship. I apparently need more than one lesson before I learn.

[@Intesanoga]

Used the exact same method to silent my psu for my 3d printer. But also upgraded from 40mm fan to a 120mm one.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@BerndFelsche]

The heat shrink is a nice thermal insulator. I'd have used a mica washer instead some years ago, but nowadays there are cheaper thermal conducting and electrically isolating films available.

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are right. Fortunately, there is no hurry in this process because the heatsink supports a much higher temperature than the 50 degrees. And the delay is not long.

[@geirthorud6581]

Note that there are Normaly Closed versions of the switch that looks identical to the Normaly Open ones. You need the NO version, not the NC.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for the tip

[@HunTomiBp]

1:40 Normal Open

[@toastrecon]

Awesome. I'd forgotten that those switches existed. I'd imagine that you could find a fan that was a lot more quiet, as well. More work and more money, though.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Exactly

[@AndersJackson]

Think this is a great idea. But if you know the potential of the heat sink, you could maybe connect the bimetal switch to the ground part of the fan connection (or to the positive, as you do) without needing to use a insolation, no?

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are right. But my solution was faster for me ;-)

[@deangreenhough3479]

An elegant solution 😀 Thanks Andreas

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@Inspironator]

Nice upgrade. I agree that this should be included with the kit, given the cost of these.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@EliteC64]

Thanks for this it will solve my pi4 Heatsink cases dual fans in my arcade project 😁👍

[@brycedavey1252]

When you put "stop this nagging" I thought you where telling us off :D

[@roidroid]

Loud fans are not good for Andreas' mental health! haha

[@AndreasSpiess]

Please forgive the guy with the swiss accent. Sometimes the first word in the translator is not the best ;-)

[@roidroid]

hehe don't worry Andreas, it's all correct enough. There's just funny double meanings. "Nagging Fans" can also mean: Subscribers that are overly demanding.

[@EricJanOud]

Well, it did draw my attention, so in that sense it worked like a charm :) "How to silence your fans in 5 minutes", Ha! It's like a clickbait, almost. Except, there is useful content after clicking through to this channel. [thumbs up]

[@saintpine]

Thought the same thing. I understand Andreas problem, I've lived 15 years in South Africa, had all my school in English, but I still have problems understanding or using the correct words compared to American or Australian English for example. Often I have difficulties understand Dave (Australian) from EEVblog though he speaks quite slow and clear.

[@vegtersbaas]

I've installed a KSD9700 45°C switch. Danke Andreas. Ruhe. Mein DPS3005 ist leise! :)

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@onlyrgu]

I was looking for a similar solution for mu UPS. This much better ,cheaper & neater than my draft solution(Adruino+PWM+Thermister). Thanks fro the video!!

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are welcome

[@rd134cloud9]

I always hate loud fan. Nice video dude, i like your channel!

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks!

[@skvalen]

Or for 0$: connect the case fan to the on-board fan (if it has one). The on-board fan starts and stop automatic. I have the DPH3205, works like a charm.

[@AndreasSpiess]

If it has. You are right.

[@tinker7722]

Thank's for that cheap and simple solution.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@zaprodk]

The "heat shrink" tube the sensor comes with is not heat shrink. It is silicone, meant for electrical insulation in case you have 250V on the switch.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for clarification. I did not try to shrink it. Was a 5 minute project.

[@moeni9727]

i just used a deep 12v fan in its 5v place. wonder if the volts can be changed by changing resisters on the small board.

[@AndreasSpiess]

I did not look at the diagram. But If you have a high input voltage you should be able to provide 12 volts.

[@asnandrey]

Excellent solution...Keep it simple!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing 😀👍

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@LanceThumping]

@2:20 RIP Headphone Users.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@bobriemersma]

Is the fan itself noisy, or is a lot of it the roughly punched non-aerodynamic cutouts it blows through? Maybe some filing to deburr and round the edges of these slots could help quiet things a little?

[@AndreasSpiess]

Tese small and cheap fans are quite noisy, especially in a otherwise very silent room

[@renelefebvre53]

I decrease the voltage for the fan to 3.5 V and the noise is now OK for me . But your solution is better .

[@AndreasSpiess]

This was also one of my ideas

[@kyme32]

in the module with the big board you could use a transistor to act as a switch, when the fan from the boards starts, also the transistor conducts and starts the case fan,easy fix

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Loopei]

what gloves are you wearing? I am currently trying to find a good pair of ESD gloves. yours look pretty good. Have a link?

[@AndreasSpiess]

You get them on AliExpress. I do not use them for ESD. So I do not know if they work

[@bernard2735]

I saw the title and at first thought you were talking about one of us :-)

[@AndreasSpiess]

I cannot talk every video about the viewers ;-)

[@SmithyScotland]

But it's only Thursday???? Didn't know these type of things existed. Thank you.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thursday is quickie time. ;-)

[@headstonegraveyards5370]

Awesome, didn't know this component.

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@headness13]

I actually put a 40x40x20mm 12V fan. It's twice the thickness of the stock one. I power it with the same 5V and get lower RPM but similar air flow. It's always running, but it's barely audible.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Also a solution. Maybe it is a little more expensive. But if you need a lot of power for sure a good one.

[@TuttleScott]

I'd put a resistor in series with the fan having it run all the time at near silent levels and then have the temperature switch bypass it for full speed when it gets too hot. that might be a bit more fail safe too if the resistor or switch fails you'll still have some cooling.

[@AndreasSpiess]

I am glad about the fact that it is absolutely quiet for 99% of the time. But your solution could be a good compromise

[@unionse7en]

I do the same with many devices, however I prefer those with a mechanical "snap-action" switch design. I think the non snap action type are ok when acting as more of a *sensor switch (light load) rather than carrying a more demanding load

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are right. This is a switch for small loads only.

[@unionse7en]

I love the form factor and the price of the ones you showed though!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@marikunz1382]

I modified a DPS 5020. I used a 30 degree Celcius NO bimetal switch. Even at 50 Watts, it will not kick on ever. I placed the switch over the board behind the fan. This area, where the ICs sit, will warm up the quickest, even quicker than the coil. Hope I could help.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thank you for your tip!

[@stefanw8203]

Thank you very much. Good video

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are welcome!

[@gamerpaddy]

modifying the fan to cause less turbulences. like roughing up the surface, deburring edges and such. and to dampen the vibrations use some rubber tubing instead of case screws.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Also a possibility.

[@saintpine]

I had an HP Switch's fan in my office that got on my nerves, I blocked the fan one year ago, the switch is still working fine.

[@AndreasSpiess]

That is the simplest version ;-)

[@saintpine]

Surely you couldn't do that, the video would have lasted a few seconds :P

[@spikeydapikey1483]

Nice simple solution, Thanks :o)

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are welcome!

[@PhilTheMeme]

another interesting video. Wondering why you did not choose to also upgrade to a quieter ball bearing fan.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Because the fan is only needed in extreme situations.

[@ollisollis]

Thank you very much again for this simple solution. Sometimes only a simple part is needed from older times - long times before a Arduino was born. 73 de Olli

[@AndreasSpiess]

This was the reason for that video ;-)

[@roidroid]

If i got the 45C switch, it would turn on in ambient summer temperatures here ;) We'd probably go with a 55C one.

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are a lucky guy. It is freezing here

[@makimcleary393]

Super Video and great idea!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@BeiLLiac4]

I have used two diodes in reverse to lower the voltage to around 3,8V and now the fan noise is acceptable.

[@AndreasSpiess]

But does it still strong enough if it is really needed?

[@mikes4d]

Servus Andrea, got my DPS5005 USB+BT today but dont have the original case, maybe will print one. I was surprised how small it is, on video everything looks bigger :)

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@mumumumah]

When I read the title I thought Andreas was referring to a person as the Nagging Fan and the Fan had a thing for the DSP5005. Andreas was going to stop him in 5 minutes. Seemed out of character for Andreas. I was unfamiliar with the DSP5005 problem. My mistake made me chuckle.

[@AndreasSpiess]

The English language is not easy …

[@stevemullens7937]

What did you do with the switch? Is it mounted, just exposed to air? Did it wedge between heat sink blades? I'm trying the same idea except the heat sink fins are only 2mm apart. any ideas?

[@AndreasSpiess]

Mine fit between the fins.

[@isoguy.]

KIss (keep it simple stupid) is always tge best approach. Thanks for sharing your idea it saved me $$$$$$ over my approach which was a $80 PC case fooler.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Yea, good fans are sometimes more expensive than the power supply itself

[@boonedockjourneyman7979]

Efficiency high? Did you look at the power factor?

[@AndreasSpiess]

I looked at the temperature of the heat sink, which is a good indicator for this application

[@feinedrachenrogerrumpel2126]

habe gerade ein dph5005 gekauft. da ist der lüfter ab werk temperaturgesteuert.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Gut für dich ;-)

[@H4zuZazu]

I would Cut out the "Fan-Grill" to get rid of the Restrictions.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Now it is most of the time quiet and I do not foresee more optimizations.

[@MaxGoddur]

Are there no fans emitting less noise?

[@AndreasSpiess]

I think you can get such fans.

[@whitefields5595]

Andreas, Be careful here. I would be better if you had used an IR thermal camera first to identify the source of the heat. If it is a point source (e.g. a linear voltage regulator) then this point source can possibly overheat before the fan cuts in. It is all about the relative thermal masses and location of the sensor(s). The reason the fan is on from the start is that several point sources may need cooling from initial switch-on. I was going to do this on my Rigol oscilloscope fan but having seen the power diode and linear regulator getting to 75C in the first 30 seconds I backed off until I can figure out how to sink these point sources of heat. The inner chamber of my scope only heats up by +2.5 C over ambient after 5 hours use, so the resolution and hysteresis of the bi-metallic sensor means that the point sources risk cooking for many hours before the switch closes. Please get the back off again and let's have a look where the heat is being generated.

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are right, I could have checked with the Flir. But I was too lazy ;-) If I remember right (without looking at the datasheets): Power transistors and diodes are rated to above 100 degrees. So short-term 75 degrees would not alarm me too much.

[@kylemccann]

is there a high amp version of this power supply?

[@AndreasSpiess]

Yes

[@kylemccann]

Andreas Spiess I’ve been trying to find one to power an old Ham radio with no luck!

[@MartinPDanz]

Smart solution - Du solltest einen Channel machen der technische Lösungen „challengd“

[@AndreasSpiess]

Bist du wieder in CH?

[@Luke-san]

Why not add a resistor in series in the fan circuit, meaning parallel, over the temperature switch? My fan is barely making any noise, have to really place my ear on top of the power supply in a very quiet room to hear it. I am sure that it keeps it cooler than normal and the thermal switch might never come on in a normal situation ever.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Mine is very loud and needed, if the temperature is too high. If I add a resistor the speed might be too low if needed

[@Luke-san]

Strange maybe mine was audible to but not that extremely loud. Maybe they used different fans. Well it can never harm to keep it running at a very low voltage and almost inaudable. My experience is that capacitors die of heat, especially they heat up in switched power supplies like this. A bit of airflow is always positive.

[@Luke-san]

intriq8, that is what I basically wrote in the first sentence and what I've done in mine. Inaudible and still a bit of an stream of air. When really needed, I have the DP50V15A power supply, the bimetal switch (mine is a 60C one) will come on, which never really happened until now.

[@Luke-san]

I know ;-) Sometimes I need to explain things clearer. Well we all have 'free' resistors in our drawers so it is a win-win in any case.

[@AndreaZeta]

Hi Andreas, your solution is great! My experience: Noctua in Austria builds very silent fans, like this one: noctua.at/en/nf-a6x25-flx that I used to replace the one in a Rigol Ds1052E. Cheers!

[@H4zuZazu]

Or Noiseblocker they have a nice silent 40mm fan.

[@AndreaZeta]

corrected, thanks!

[@AndreasSpiess]

Silent fans are good, but if I remember quite costly.

[@nicktohzyu]

maybe you could have used a thermal pad instead of the much more insulating tubing

[@AndreasSpiess]

You are right

[@jumadhaheri]

Brillant

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@judgeguilty]

Great idea. Any tips on how to silence a nagging wife (for under $1.25)?

[@spikeydapikey1483]

Gaffa tape.

[@AndreasSpiess]

Don’t know. Mine is always nice ;-)

[@ufohunter3688]

My tip would be highly illegal, and you could end up with cell mates nagging you. :)

[@judgeguilty]

You are a wise man.

[@evanr1940]

ear plugs are about $0.50/each, but I suggest Bose QuietComfort 35 wireless headphones II ($350). They work great at blocking background noise

[@michaelo2l]

Found it on ebay (5 for ~€1.43 ) out of stock in link...

[@AndreasSpiess]

Thanks for the tip!

[@squalazzo]

can't you add some diodes to the fan power lines to reduce voltage and so it's less loud (moving less air, too, of course...)?

[@squalazzo]

i know, but it can be an addon to the switch, to reduce noise even when fan is active, of course

[@AndreasSpiess]

I assume the fan is not very strong and is needed full speed for max. Spec. But I did not do tests.

[@DominicGiles]

I did... It needed a reasonable voltage to start running and the difference in noise with it reaching its operating voltage and running at 5 volts is negligible. It's a cheap fan... May there are better fans that run quieter... I like Andreas solution. simple and easy to implement.

[@grindel80]

Useful && intresting = true

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@alexbro2558]

Anyway, the fan is blowing outside and doesn't make much sense at all. Better to replace it with the sticker directed inside/ just my humble opinion

[@alexbro2558]

It makes sense with DPS5005 and other models without additional boards (that have their own fan btw). With others, like 5020 model, this installation direction is correct. If you change fan direction, you will have to improve bolt holes to make deeper holes for nuts from inside.

[@AndreasSpiess]

I think you can turn the fan if you think it works better. It is more or less symmetrical.

[@DaHaiZhu]

Hahahaha!!!! I read your thumbnail text and thought your were talking about one of your Viewers when it said "Nagging Fan"....hahahahaha - Great Video, BTW!!!

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@tbbw]

How you gonna stop this nagging fan? Nag nag nag nag! ;)

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-))

[@omaryanas435949]

Always screw your fans......... Tightly to avoid extra noise :D

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-))

[@sergeyneverov]

Лайк!

[@AndreasSpiess]

Баярлалаа

[@poweredbysergey]

Smart an cheap

[@AndreasSpiess]

:-)

[@yagoa]

please get a IOTA address I'd love to donate

[@AndreasSpiess]

I have to investigate first to understand

[@yagoa]

it is very easy if you have Mac or linux (Windows does not have a real random generator) iotasupport.com/gui-newseed.shtml

[@yagoa]

Linux cat /dev/urandom |tr -dc A-Z9|head -c${1:-81} Mac cat /dev/urandom |LC_ALL=C tr -dc 'A-Z9' | fold -w 81 | head -n 1 use that to log in to the wallet choose iota.bitfinex.com:80 as server github.com/iotaledger/wallet/releases the only annoying part is having to generate a new address for each video(for safety just like bitcoin)

[@tbyte007]

Come ooon a dollar ? Be European talk Euro ! :D

[@AndreasSpiess]

Same same

[@tbyte007]

I'm about to do something similar to my Cisco 2960 switch and my APC RT 3000 UPS - both have really annoying fans. Although the APC fan might be 220/240V which can make things more complicated.

[@AndreasSpiess]

My switches are for 220v

[@tbyte007]

Oh nice ! So i will have no problems then - thank you ! Btw what you think about using a thermal resistor to control the RPM of the fan ? I know it would be more complicated and probably unneeded but might be an interesting video :)