18Kpv Solar Installation Failed Electrical Inspection

I failed my electrical inspection about a week ago. This video shows the items I needed to correct in order to pass the reinspection.

[@GCSol]

When I installed my system I made sure I did everything according to locals electrical codes. The only things the inspector did was verify the number of panels installed was what I put on the permit application and that the inverter met the federal five minute rule. He signed off on the permit and left less than 10 minutes after he got here. I called the electric company and told them I passed the inspection and they came out the next morning and installed the bidirectional meter. For me the whole process was very easy.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

That's awesome. Not so lucky where I live. We will see how things go with the electric company after I get a pass on the inspection on Monday.

[@arnswine]

Nice! Code monkeys and courts have been out of control since the 80's in some areas. When stickers are more important than physical reality, you know the twits are in business protect ever-expanding authority at the expense of actual public service. In this case the inspector, allegedly knowing the difference between safe and unsafe, could have and should have spared meaningless hassle in the name of sanity and decency. Infinite nitpicking for reasons of zero practical safety improvement and myths about "liability" and "integrity" is only applied to homeowners who can't afford lawyers. Where I live, inspectors aren't liable for a damn thing and ignore all kinds of unsafe horrors inflicted by developers and certified (sticker-based) professionals.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

@@arnswine My city has a reputation. I had a friend who is a contractor build my garage (you can see it behind the solar rack). He agreed to do it for me, but he normally refuses to do any work within the city due to the inspectors. (all the garage inspections passed on the first try except for the electrical)

[@chrisnordstrom7431]

The maker did not want to pay for a UL cert is the only reason. CE does not test anything, they take the manufacturer at their word, no independent test. Keep up the good work!

[@azwelke2638]

CE means that it's certified to be used in Europe or Canada. UL is underwriters laboratory in the United States.

[@theadventuresofarenaissancman]

Thanks for sharing...i had the same problem with my Amazon order. Had to reorder a second enclosure. BTW your new enclosure should have the grommets/inserts to seal up the door holes.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Thanks, put them in a few minutes ago.

[@daddio7249]

I live in a rural area and do all my own work. I did an off grid system, not connected to the grid so no need for anyone to look at it. I copied someone else who made a video of his installation of an identical system. Works fine.

[@mackellyman5642]

Excellent content. Thanks for shairing it for all to ponder.

[@jmaus2k]

Crazy flagging a metal box. But do add ductseal around exposed holes to stop dirt and bugs. Add a weeb washer on ground lug. DC wires inside needs to be in metal conduit. Exposed DC wires outside need to be in conduit(liquid tight was ok for us). Under panels needs to be protected where someone can touch(we used hardware cloth). Good luck.

[@RogerGrisham]

Gary Could you tell me or draw a diagram where the wires in the fused disconnect come from and go to. The same for the bypass disconnect. i am a little confused . The boxes with the terminals marked or written own would be nice. This is my initial setting up.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

Some jurisdictions require a weep hole in the bottom of the PV box. Usually under 3/16”. Small enough that a mud wasp can’t get in there.

[@yoho6348]

So your the reason we have inspectors. Thanks a lot...

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Yep, just like a politician creating jobs...Your welcome

[@sneakypete830]

You should do a video explaining the internals of that box. Im new to solar batteries so im learning how to hook all of my 48 panels up and feed them into my 18kpv inverter

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

I did this video a while back. If it doesn't answer all your questions just ask. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIaYg2iGgcaCaMk

[@sneakypete830]

Thanks, I'll check that video out@@Gary_Pauls_DIY

[@Chris-ie9os]

The box shouldn't really be needed. Just pass thru. Per the NEC over-current protection is only required for >2 strings in parallel. The 18K has 3 MPP inputs so you can run 6 strings before you would need breakers or fuses. Just a simple pass-thru. KISS.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

@@Chris-ie9os I agree with you. I could have just installed an IMO switch. (City requires shutoff at the panels) When I purchased the panels the guy basically gave me the breakers and surge protectors. The cost of the box was less than the IMO switch. Didn't plan on needing to replace it. Still I kinda like having the extra protection in case of a surge other than what is built into the 18Kpv.

[@callmebigpapa]

You did an amazing job if that is all you failed on!!!

[@amjadsaigal3963]

Can you share the link of these beautiful tool free grounding jumpers

[@tujuprojects]

CE stands for Consumer Equipment certification in Europe, means that it’s safe for consumers.

[@nihongobenkyoshimasu3190]

I wonder if you could have just swapped the two doors... I didn't think there was any electrical connection or grounding change? Did the inspector requested that you have to use ferrules to end the wires ? 0:39 Honestly I don't like too much this type of grounding which seems to use clips and no bolts and no continuous wires. 0:49 This is the type of grounding I am using, and each panel has at least one, also the wire are continous to the connection box. 1:04 only one long continous wire from the box bus bar to each row of panels, like this is the case. Do you have two electrical ground rods in the floor and 6 feet from each other next to this PV connection box, or do you connect instead the ground bus bar of the connection box to the main electrical panel of your house?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Nihongo sukoshi wakarimasu. I lived in Japan for 8 years and recently was in Tokyo for a month. The doors can't be easily swapped. The hinges are different and the way the door attaches to the hinges is also different. The inspector didn't mention the ferrules, but on stranded wire you should use them. I had them installed from the beginning, so I don't know if he would have written me up for not having them or not. 0:39 This bonding system is UL 2703 listed and has extensive testing to ensure it works. The clips cut into the metal frame of the solar panel. Additionally, my ground mount is entirely metal with all panels attached with metal hardware and torqued down. The additional grounding clips I used is probably overkill, but code requires a UL certified bonding method be used. 0:49 This is a very good way to ground the panels. If my ground mount did not come with the other system I would have done the same method as you. 1:04 My city does not want you to install a separate ground rod for the solar array. They want you to use the one designated for the home. So, my ground wire runs through the conduit from the ground mount back to my inverter. From the inverter the ground is connected to the first point of interconnection, which is my 200 Amp Fused Disconnect switch. From the switch it is connected to two ground rods placed 6 feet apart.

[@jmaus2k]

These ground wires work great. They are difficult to remove once pushed on so they meet the nec requirement for not removable.

[@criticaltemperature3343]

I wonder if the minor differences in the boxes is due to patents. Ive seen some knock off stuff very similar but not exactly the same. Basically so if the knock off gets sued they can say its not a duplicate.

[@heroesandzeros7802]

The NEC requires a 1/8" air gap between components on a DIN rail or direct mount. By looking at your wiring in the box, the PV wires should go into the top of the center breakers and out of the bottom. I am curious why you used crimp connectors at the top of the breakers and not the bottoms. Where the enclosure is mounted may be a problem: If there is ever a fire, you may not be able to get to the enclosure to turn off the breakers. PV fires can happen and never trip the breakers and the firemen cannot put the fire out.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Do you have the NEC reference number for the DIN rail spacing? I installed this box as more of a switch than breakers, so If I need to work on any wiring going into the inverter. The breakers in this location are not required. I could have just installed an IMO Switch, but I had the breakers and did it this way to save a few dollars. I wired the breakers based on the schematic printed on the side of the breaker. So input and output is per drawing. If the solar panels catch on fire there is another disconnect at the inverter (not that it will make that much difference). The PV wire is stranded, so I used ferrules on all the ends, not just the top of the breakers, so must be the angel of the camera is the reason you don't see them on the bottom.

[@v8eater2]

Be sure to do an update video once the system is up and running after reinspection.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

All the inspections have passed and I submitted everything to Duke Energy. They have approved the interconnect and will reprogram the meter next week. Once this is all done and I am running in full hybrid mode I plan to do an updated video.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

New video is out. Everything is complete and I have my permission to operate from duke energy.

[@v8eater2]

@@Gary_Pauls_DIY sweet! Haven’t had a chance to watch but you’re doing great work. Exactly what I’m looking at for my forever home.

[@Electronzap]

Thanks for sharing.

[@kurtzxcvb3481]

In the future if you ever have to put bushings in again just cut the bushings that you have and slip them around and make them slip bushings as an electrician we do this all the time

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

I thought about that, but didn't know if they would pass it on inspection. The inspector said I could buy split bushings or install non-split. I didn't think it would work if I made them myself. Thanks for the advice.

[@kurtzxcvb3481]

@@Gary_Pauls_DIY if I cut my own I always spin it so you can't see the cut side towards the back that way they don't even question it

[@kurtzxcvb3481]

It's always handy to keep a couple extra UL listing stickers off of old stuff just in case you get something that the sticker fell off of if you catch my drift

[@joelcawthon1365]

you should have just took the ul sticker off the new one and put it on the old one, then you would not had to change everything out

[@matthewwhite8129]

Surprised the inspector didn’t flag the accessible high voltage pv cables.

[@mackellyman5642]

Along with a perimeter fence around the ground-mounted arrays?

[@Scat.original]

Would be nice to have a link to the UL Listed box

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

This is the UL listed one I purchased from Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8Z7WS49?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[@wpastander]

Just wondering....the enclosure that's on now, did it pass the test? I also do inspections, and would not pass it. The alternative holes for the hinges on the left side are not plugged. There is a nice seal on the door but these holes make it accessible for insects, water etc. No point in a door seal. The one on the ground seems safe.. as far as the seal goes...what ever...

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

The box came with plugs and I put them in after I took the video and before the inspection. Yes, it passed reinspection. I will post a follow-up video once I have my new meter and everything set up to sell back excess power to the gird.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

New video is out and I show the enclosure with the plugs installed.

[@xyvyx]

the hinges are also a different design which use two bolts each instead of just one. They're large /taller too.

[@duotronic6451]

I wonder if that UL sticker is real or not?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

I looked it up in the UL database. The UL number on the tag links to the manufacturer and the part number of the box. So, I believe it is legit.

[@cre8tive31]

Hey Gary, did you have to install an e-stop button on your batteries or inverter since they are mounted on the inside and if so, how did you wire or connect them? NEC code requires that.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

You are correct, but my inspector didn't require me to install one. With the 18Kpv and Powerpro it is very easy. Signature Solar has a video showing how to do it. Basically there is a jumper wire installed in the 18Kpv from the factory. You remove the jumper and install two wires that run out to a normally closed emergency stop button. When you push the button it opens the connection and the 18Kpv will shut down the PV, Battery, and inverter. If you are roof mounting and need individual panel shut down I think you would have to buy Tigo's for each panel.

[@cre8tive31]

Thank you, so very kindly Gary, for your response. The EG4 Power Pro and the 18kpv both support the normally open e-stop button and not the NC@@Gary_Pauls_DIY

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

@@cre8tive31 No it is normally closed. Attached below is the words directly from the 18Kpv manual page 77: 11.2.1 External RSD The system can also utilize an External E-Stop Switch if your AHJ deems it necessary. 1. Type of External E-Stop Switch for RSD Require-ments: a. The external switch must have normally closed contact type for emergency shut-down.

[@dannelson6980]

Without the drip shield I don't see how the other box is rated for outdoor use.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

It's the way the lip around the door opening and the seal are made. If the door is closed there is no way for water to get in unless you hit it with a pressure washer. Both boxes are designed the same. The UL listed box has a drip shield that is a separate piece. You could install it or leave it off.

[@dannelson6980]

@@Gary_Pauls_DIY The missing drip shield is what caught the inspectors attention on the other box. I have seen not a hinged outdoor UL rated box without a drip shield. For as far back as I can remember. They might exist, but as soon as I see one I am going to look at it closer. It is how I tell an outdoor box from an indoor box at a glance. The box could be there for over 50 years, does any weather seal last 50 years?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

@@dannelson6980 Good points, Thanks for the insight.

[@keithpvbatt2040]

Inspectors get picky when they do inspections without Master elect # on the permit. He should have called out the exposed PV wire that is under 8ft or is easily reachable . NEC section 690.31(A). UL integrated grounding cert. is to allow non electricians assemble solar arrays without needing to design a grounding system (that requires a ME license) If you don't put a license # on the permit it falls back on the inspector for liability so the inspector ends up on the hook.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

I had a PE mechanical engineer licensed in the state of NC sign and stamp off on the installation.

[@azwelke2638]

I have never heard of the government taking responsibility for anything. The inspector is not going to be liable for anything. He will say you agreed to build it to code, and it's on you that you didn't.

[@longtimber1]

Where can one source the PV Bonding Jumpers?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Mine came with the ground mount, but you should be able to buy them from the manufacturer: dynoraxx.com/grounding/dynobond/

[@azwelke2638]

Make your own out of copper, you can use grounding Screws to attach lugs to the frame. Also drive 3/4" x 10' ground rods. Go above min code

[@TJM45]

What gauge wire did you use for the A/C load?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

For the AC load coming from the inverter to the bypass transfer switch I used 3/0 Copper.

[@TJM45]

@@Gary_Pauls_DIY thank you for all your help

[@Rottweilerdsq]

Could you just not had change the door's lol

[@andrewstafford-jones4291]

Just print a sticker - that's all the Chinese do.

[@simon359]

It tells me that these inspectors have no common sense! 💸

[@charlessailer4580]

Can't you just buy a UL sticker and plop it on there?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Don't know, but not worth it. Only $80 for a UL listed box and a couple hours work and I don't have to worry about going to UL prison.

[@TCPUDPATM]

Never f around with safety. Just because you (as an amateur) don’t see it, doesn’t mean a difference doesn’t exist.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

@@TCPUDPATM I know it's hard to tell, but I actually have an EE degree (work mainly in aviation). I am not a licensed electrician though. So I rate slightly above amateur :) I have tried to make sure everything is UL certified and in compliance with the NEC and fire codes. I really don't mind the failed inspection. Lets me fix the things I missed. My garage was wired by a licensed electrician and he failed the electrical final inspection as well. Nobody is perfect and the inspector is putting their name on the line. As you stated, "Never f around with safety."

[@charlessailer4580]

@@TCPUDPATM My comment was a tounge in cheek wager that the inspector couldn't tell the difference between the two enclosures. I've never seen a trade with such vigorous defense of their turf. I wish I was in a similar trade, might be better off financially.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

No worries. I agree with you, that the inspector couldn't tell the difference. He just wants to see the sticker. There is almost zero difference in the two enclosures. My guess is Vevor paid for one to be tested and UL listed and so they sell it for $10 dollars more than the other one. The first one I installed is truthfully a very good encloser...nothing wrong with it at all. One one hand, I really wish I didn't have to deal with the city inspectors. On the other hand, if I did something wrong and burn my house down, I really want the insurance to pay for it. 😂

[@ap6553]

Hi, thanks for the great video. Could you possibly convert mm to inches for your american audience?

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

Everything was about (4 to 5 mm) 3/16 inch off.

[@MrButuz]

The only difference is one has a fake CE sticker and one has a fake UL sticker. The majority of the Chinese stuff off amazon isn't certified for anything. you get what you pay for! I only buy electrical stuff from Amazon of it's actually from a proper Manufacturer store e.g. over here Schneider have a proper store and it's all good stuff just drop shipped from amazon warehouses so thats fine but the general no name enclosures breakers etc stuff I wouldn't touch.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

UL actually has a web database where you can look up certifications to validate them. I looked this one up before I purchased it. I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I needed a water tight enclosure and so far it has worked with no issues.

[@chuksobi593]

None of those are really ul listed lol

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

I checked the UL database and the one I bought shows up. Main thing is it came with a UL sticker, which is what I needed to pass my inspection.

[@MattyFreedom]

Maybe it's me, but is there any common sense left in this world anymore? Making you replace that almost identical box seems to be an exercise in being a jobsworth to me.

[@Gary_Pauls_DIY]

LOL...There is none. That is why critical things get missed and nit-noid things get picked on. He did have some valid finds that I have now fixed. Still waiting on the reinspection.