18th century Menswear: Hand Sewing Breeches

In the 1700s, breeches were a regular part of a mens suit of clothes. But, constructing them today can seem like one of the most daunting parts in a historical sewing project! They are complex in patterning, fitting, and construction. And the variations of styles can seem endless! But rather than getting tangled up in pocket options, let's take a look at some of the universal elements to all pairs of breeches.
Important Tips:
1. Make a mock-up. But don't worry about fitting it "perfectly". Odds are your fabric will have different stretch. So leave some extra seam allowance on the inseams for safety!
2. Don't add seam allowance to your pattern. Draw the shape on the fabric and add it on there. You need your stitching lines.
3. BASTE EVERYTHING. Don't expect pins to hold things smoothly or safely. They are temporary. Basting will keep things secure and flat for as long as you need. You'll thank yourself when you don't accidentally stab your hand or have an important pin fall out half way through the project.
4. Reinforce. Don't expect your one layer of fabric to do all the work. Nor should you just line the entire thing to strengthen. Interfacings, linings, and extra pieces should be applied with thought so as to be successful and reduce bulk. We aren't machine bag-lining this thing for a reason.
5. Stitching should show! We want to see your work! And it serves to help reinforce your garments weak points.
6. Leave enough space in your clothing that you can move. This is especially apparent in breeches and trousers. You need to be able to sit and squat down.
7. First project at this level? Use wool. It is forgiving and has enough natural stretch and give that you won't have to obsess. It's also fairly strong (so long as you leave enough allowance for fraying). Can't do wool due to allergies? Try a cotton twill or denim (yes, denim. Des Nîmes- From Nîmes). I chose a woven silk, rather than a taffeta, to give myself some ease.
8. Really scared? Make a pair of underbreeches first! They're out of a plain linen and have fewer complicated elements, but you can essentially make a useable mock up this way! They're great for warmth, wool allergies, or keeping your outer breeches clean.
Burnley & Trowbridge workshops: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/page...
(they're also where all of the fabric, thread, button moulds, and buckles came from for this project)
Socials
Instagram: / silk_and_buckram
Tiktok: / cloche_call
🖼 Fashion Plate: www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collect...
🖼 Sailor: www.britishmuseum.org/collect...
🖼 Suit: collections.lacma.org/node/21...
🖼 Kneeband: www.meg-andrews.com/item-deta...
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)

[@mollysmith1711]

It is a universally accepted truth that secret pockets are for snacks

[@AndreaIris86]

What else could they be for, I couldn't fathom

[@tarhabrown8038]

Snacks and possibly small good luck charms 💜

[@___LC___]

This is why all my clothing must have many pockets!

[@nktigger99]

Definitely

[@MossyMozart]

@Molly Smith - Mmmm, candy watches!

[@evelynpageau2292]

I feel like I've learned so much about dresses and 'womens' wear but almost nothing about 'mens'. So thank you for teaching about 'mens' wear. We need more people like you.

[@sonipitts]

This indeed! Definitely need to catch up the ratio of men's to women's historical dress tutorials and informationals.

[@k80_]

Bernadette banner also has a video on her channel about a men’s/ gender neutral “pirate” shirt which is very good if you want the whole ensemble

[@vincentbriggs1780]

I have a couple of videos on 18th century menswear! I'm new to making videos but have plans for so many more. Marius Lee, The Welsh Viking, and Paulo Samu also have videos on menswear.

[@SwitchelSweets]

@@taylregene I’m not familiar with a whole lot either but just in case you haven’t found them yet, here are the ones I follow: Pinsent Tailoring, Gilbert Dolthalion, and Old Guy Vibes. Hopefully I can add more to this list in the near future!

[@darklordoftheuniverse7803]

Indeed.

[@grooveonthehillside]

gay awakening 2 just happened thanks queen

[@NoadiArt]

Same

[@anagabrieltrevino5439]

I mean... yeah 😳🙈

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Yep. I just made a comment about this, saying that my little gay heart is aflutter. Because... wow.

[@magiv4205]

Mood

[@werelemur1138]

*fans self* Same.

[@anagabrieltrevino5439]

Can we take a moment to appreciate the absolute Gentleman Jack -esque glamour of the thumbnail!! I swoon!

[@JustSaralius]

"I can only assume snacks" Nicole, I love you! 😂💝

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Ooh. I must admit, seeing a woman in such beautiful breeches is setting my little gay heart aflutter! I need more androgynous history bounding in my life.

[@stacyturner8330]

Well damn. Seeing that is making my solidly straight little heart flutter. who knew that silk breeches are universally hot ; D

[@dontbeabeachmyrtle3871]

Sometimes the comments are just as good , if not better than the content. Lol

[@ReisigSeeds]

Nicole can manspread like the best of them. I LOLed at the end of her video because it was so perfect!

[@traciasmith1542]

straight gramma but, loving the whole tilda swinton feel. fantastic

[@Fire-hf6rl]

It looks ugly and bad on her.

[@lwoods507]

That shot at the end of you lounging in your breeches! I am getting very strong Georgette Heyer Regency vibes. You know the novels: "Young heiress rebels against dreadful relatives, cuts off her hair and dresses as a boy to evade pursuit, shenanigans with a handsome young Baronet ensue" It's a strong look, is what I'm saying.

[@residentaldeadboy1543]

I deeply appreciate the focus on menswear because I find it often neglected on historical KZbin, and I just adore this in-depth video. I beg that you make more because one everyone looks great in any sort of “gendered” wear but also it’s helpful to have a better understanding of tailoring since a lot of pattern neglect smaller men like me.

[@NicoleRudolph]

Tailoring is one of my favorite things, so you'll definitely see a lot more menswear in the future!

[@NicoleRudolph]

@@michellecornum5856 Having watched Abby, I'm not quite sure that's a method she goes for (chaos, sure, but still refined). But the "get the thing done" is always a valid option depending on the circumstances! I did plenty of that in theatre.

[@AbbyCox]

@@michellecornum5856 I hope you’re talking about my original antiques, but I am happy to show you my handwork.

[@michellecornum5856]

@@AbbyCox Hahahaha. Yes, Abby, the original antiques.

[@beckstheimpatient4135]

Sees Nicole looking ultra-cool in britches - "I should make britches" Sees Nicole painstakingly craft them in so much detail - "Maybe in a year or two when I upgrade my skills" Sees Nicole continue to painstakingly craft them - "Wait, I don't wear knee-length pants anyway. No britches for me!" You look so cool, Nicole!

[@michellecornum5856]

Yeah, that wasn't intimidating AT ALL. (goes to lay down until the feeling goes away.)

[@niamhybeagable]

It's only fabric. TRY IT. You could wear them with birkenstocks if nothing else ;)

[@michellecornum5856]

@@niamhybeagable You brave soul! No fear of cutting for you!

[@lajoyous1568]

Just when I start to think I might have learned enough to try a new project, I watch one of Nicole's videos and I'm totally lost. 😕

[@theexchipmunk]

@@michellecornum5856 I can recommend to just go for it. Will it be fun at first? Hell no. You will fail hard. And fail a lot. But If you manage to get through that? It will get easier. And after you tried again and again and overcome it? Nothing can beat that feeling of really having accomplished something.

[@AndreaIris86]

hotdamn, NIcole, not even a second in and you already there serving looks *fans herself*

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

she got me at the thumbnail!

[@cinemaocd1752]

this might be the sexiest outfit I've ever seen in my life....

[@Rhaifha]

I was actually shocked to see how much extra room you needed to leave in the garment for movement. We definitely got way too spoiled by stretchy fabrics. Also, I love the tips in your description bar. I hope more people find you soon, because the content is top notch quality!

[@roxiepoe9586]

So many literary references to tailoring, wearing, and extracting oneself from breeches now make sense.

[@dammitspawk]

The comments on this video: - STOP IM ALREADY GAY - Magical scissors - Stunning stitch-work

[@designerKAYA]

The shots of you modeling those breeches could absolutely be a thirst trap tiktok.... Also, very stoked to see some "mens" garments!

[@rachaelhall1164]

The sound that those scissors make is just perfection

[@Sewstine]

I learned SOOO much! Also you look so sexy and powerful in this outfit - it really suits you! I really hope you go into making courtsuits as well - I want to learn EVERYTHING from you!

[@joywarburton5719]

@AKZbin User court suits are gay, folks, we heard it here first

[@thelacedangel]

Troll in the dungeon.

[@catzkeet4860]

@AKZbin User that’s an unusually ignorant response for this channel. Generally the commenters here have more class than you evidently do. I’d advise going back under the rock you crawled out from under.

[@catzkeet4860]

@AKZbin User lol sweetie, I’d rather have “appalling syntax” than your appalling mindset and lack of manners. What “team” a person plays for is NONE of your business. Please just go away

[@thelacedangel]

Bless, your insults are from the 90s 😂

[@yezzyjames]

These breeches with your Tailored Jacket would make an interesting combo. Plus I had a small heartstop when I saw you take a scissors to make the buttonholes. Those things are scary when you don't notice the space that prevents them from cutting all the way through. :}

[@devinbaggs7542]

Me toooooo

[@wenkachan6180]

I was literally screaming in my head and when I figure it out I was "That's a cool pair of scissors!!"

[@ketrakrelek2347]

i'm a fencer and we have to wear breeches, so it's super interesting to see their lineage. My university club used to make lots of jokes about wearing ours out for socials but we never did get round to it... 😂

[@AndreaIris86]

Be the change you want to see in the world!

[@user-ku5yk2jw4l]

do it

[@lupa1445]

Eeeeeek, I want to see fencing in breeches! I want to just see people fencing in general! Where can I find fencing content please

[@CraftQueenJr]

Lupa Kajsa Lisa search fencing competition into KZbin.

[@TheSharpenedPencil]

I'm so glad you're showing men's historical garments. I'm trans and trying to figure out how to make men's historical clothes fit my body is daunting. You make me feel like it's possible!

[@stephaniemiller5049]

Watching you sew is so zen-like, I fall into a little trance.

[@TheGPFilmMaker]

"Hidden in your waistband for who knows what...I can only assume snacks" :) such a great line!!

[@darleneengebretsen1468]

How about hiding money in the waistband?

[@thepeacefish]

I have found the only video on KZbin with exactly zero dislikes and honestly it makes perfect sense that it’s this one

[@terriwilliams4938]

I just love this video! Once upon a time back in the early 80’s, I loved the breeches look so much, I talked a couple of friends into whacking off the bottoms of our wide-leg jeans and made little knee bands. We called them “knickers” and not breeches, but I do believe that was my first-ever attempt to achieve a somewhat historical silhouette. Now watching this video I remember the joy it brought my little revolutionary soul to rebel against early 80’s in favor of 18th century!

[@MMMMaruska]

Your hand stitching is just incredible!

[@spacewolfcub]

16:32 OMG 😳 Those stitches!

[@lyndabird9401]

I now know why you used the term “daunting”. I’ve sewn innumerable pairs and types of pants-WHOA. A+ for all those mitered corners!

[@funkstart]

I must have all the breeches and all the snacks.

[@sherisaunders1517]

I love how well you explain the mechanics that go into constructing a pair of breeches (or anything for that matter). I really like learning more about making menswear

[@moderndayshieldmaiden]

Your hand sewing skills are so elegant and precise omg. I just kept watching thinking "omg that seam is SO BEAUTIFUL" but like with every seam lol.

[@AndreaIris86]

Hard same here

[@MomsMakingHistory]

Anyone else low-key crushing on Nicole in breeches? Just me? 😶

[@michellecornum5856]

Low-key? Yeah, that's just you. The rest of us have passed out on the floor at her feet.

[@jirup]

I'm with Michelle, there's nothing low key about it.

[@theglitterballlifestyle675]

Yeah IM just over here crying in gay so 😅🤷🏻‍♀️

[@asiabryant207]

Witch! How did you know I was researching this yesterday wishing for a video exactly like this. Thank you sew much.

[@courtneymcmeen1324]

Yes! A pair of men's breeches has been on my list of things to make for awhile now, and this was so helpful. These are fantastic, and thank you for the video!

[@maridanez]

YES to women in historical menswear 😍😱

[@benjamins4699]

ok for real why is the production quality SOOOO high!! you look like you're in a documentary and i cannot get enough

[@dammitspawk]

The gays going wild in the comments makes my heart take off. This project turned out absolutely incredible.

[@habituscraeftig]

(Also, that was probably the hottest opening to a KZbin video I have seen in all my ages on the internet.)

[@Thesharktemptress]

*Sweats in bisexual* Great video! I didn't realize how much work goes into a garment that seems so simple! These came out fabulous!

[@jodireid1467]

The sound of sharp scissors snipping through fabric is just devine

[@girlwithoutpearlearring]

As a half-time-linguist, it was really nice to see where the term "breeches" comes from. And it's always a delight to see the similarities between English and German terminology. In medieval times you would call your pants "bruche" or "brouche" which comes down to the same ethymological source of breaking something. Today we call them "Hosen" in German. And it's funny because we can use both the singular of the word ("die Hose") and the plural ("die Hosen" / "ein Paar Hosen" = "a pair of trousers") to refer to one garment. The singular form is more common for colloquial language, though. And, since we are already in the realm of singular and plural forms for stuff that is actually one whole thing, I would like to state that glasses are a word that I've only come across in a singular form in German. We call them "die Brille" (and in this case "die" does not mark a plural but a feminin noun). All other languages I've studied so far (English, French and Russian) refer to glasses as two seperate - yes - glasses that are held together with some wire. The French "lunettes" is actually quite cute. It means "little moons" (which always makes me think of Dumbledore). But enough. You're here for sewing content. I just wanted to pour out some of my nerdiness into the world.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

HECK YES!! 18th century menswear is my very favourite thing in the world and there are so so few videos on it. They're beautiful, and I'm so excited to see the rest of the suit!

[@m.maclellan7147]

I was thinking of you when this video started ! :)

[@raraavis7782]

Oh, but that is a gorgeous pair of breeches (and outfit) in general! I've always been fascinated by historical menswear, but unfortunately the vast majority of content creators focuses on women's wear exclusively. So glad, I discovered you!

[@barchenbox5393]

Loving the look you're going for! As for the video, I'd have a humble request: Would it be possible to show the cut-out pieces (or the pattern pieces) in their future arrangement before you start sewing? I'm a beginner at sewing and had some trouble keeping up with what you were doing and would appreciate the visual aid of how it all goes together.

[@deborahmelo7993]

That’s the most perfect hand stitching I’ve ever seen 💙

[@amypattie7004]

What is these magical button hole scissors? I must know!

[@billrachmad]

Got me confused and im not even mad. This is nice ❤️🌈

[@omideixis]

the other day i put on my 18th century men's shirt (thank you, bernadette!) and a pair of white pants, and from that minute on i decided i needed a pair of breeches. there's so much content about women's historical fashion out there, which is amazing! i love it all! but i wish there was just as much content for men's historical fashion. my pipe dream of a historical fashion project is a late 18th-early 19th century british naval captain's dress uniform, which is far in the distant future of my sewing skill, but seeing projects and videos like this only make me more excited to learn!

[@nyalar8393]

You are one piece of garment closer to Joseph Ducreux, that's pleasing.

[@yevheniishyshko7961]

Alright, I am a newcomer to your channel, but may I ask - could you please make a video on men's fashion in 19th century and men's corsets? I am a huge fan of that stuff and I am very sad that historical men's fashion is so much less popular than it is for women, especially regarding corsets.

[@bruceleehace20anos17]

I'm a tailoring apprentice with my grandfather who has been a tailor since 1968, And I have become curious about the development of this type of garment. Possibly in a month or two I made myself a Regency outfit. I already have a notion of how to make the pants. As a man who loves clothing from 1800 to 1930, I appreciate it :)

[@Blackbeltkitten2D]

Ah! I was so excited to see this video, my hands actually started shaking! I've found so little on historical menswear in general; from patterns, to blog posts/guides, to videos, despite diligent and frequent searches (though perhaps I'm not looking in the right places), so seeing this on my homepage was a delight.

[@Ainzlei]

the evenness of the stitches at 16:34..... looks like a machine it's so even and perfect, i can't ...

[@rejoyce318]

Your hand stitching is beautiful.

[@michellecornum5856]

Yes. sir. Beautiful is an understatement, but I don't know of a more precise word.

[@Gothhana]

I wish that someone would modernize many older fashions like this. I'd love to see more men and women wearing older styles of breeches and waistcoats. They're just such a solid tailored look. It's gorgeous, these look fantastic, and with the loose tunic on top it would look incredible on most body types as well.

[@MaridithSmith]

Your breeches turned out great and the shirt & breeches look is great on you.

[@corwynh6013]

I have been looking for how to make men's 18th-century clothing for ages, and I might just be looking in the wrong places, but other than Reconstructing History's patterns, this is the first I've seen of someone properly talking about the breaches! Thank you so much 😄

[@vivijd14]

My mezzo-soprano heart loves this! Wonderfully done Nicole! 🙌🏽

[@SewBiased]

Mezzo trouser represent!

[@vivijd14]

@@SewBiased Yaaaas!! 🙌🏽🙌🏽

[@ginalou5774]

I was unable to understand most of what Nicole was talking about when she was putting in those pockets but boy it was amazing to watch. Those back stitches were basically like sewing machine evenness....freakishly perfect

[@lets_get_illuminaughty6351]

Swooning over these breeches and how awesome they look on you! Beautiful

[@dismurrart6648]

Watching you sit so masculinely made my monocle pop

[@BurnleyandTrowbridge]

Thank you for the shout out Nicole! Love this video!!

[@netchesandnirnroots7174]

My enby heart is full. These are great; thanks for the awesome video!

[@dorritsmedsgard5900]

You are a brave woman, Nicole. Such a project had killed me.

[@michellecornum5856]

Those are some serious shears. By damn, you did it. I am in awe. Bravo.

[@ParkerBrown1979]

Oh thank you, Nicole! Making my own trousers has been a (now) two-year exercise in banging my head against a wall and this clarified a lot of things :-). Liked and subscribed :-D.

[@kyliegroft8951]

Your breeches are beautiful, and this video was so incredibly relaxing to watch. Thank you so much for sharing!

[@madelinemoltzan256]

It was an absolute delight to watch you make these

[@aprilmalinowski4265]

Those breeches are gorgeous. Feeling inspired.

[@tarhabrown8038]

Absolutely love these. And they look so awesome on you!! This was a delicious treat.

[@kjtherrick4031]

Finally a pair of breeches for you! They look great. Enjoyed watching you sew and learning from you. Thx!

[@thelittlecostumery]

Your hand stitching is beautiful. I am now watching all your videos!

[@evestone5361]

Thank you for the tips on the welted pockets plus the lovely hand work. Well done.🙏😸

[@northstarsmith6798]

You look absolutely stunning! Not only that, you did an incredible job making those breeches!

[@katrinalevin4064]

Fantastic! I loved seeing a close up of men's garments techniques and the mens wear is a great look!

[@SewlockHolmes]

Well now I have a burning need to make my own! What a beautiful pair of breeches! Thanks Nicole!

[@lieselemay]

This! I am wanting to make a bunch of these including some leather ones for working on cars, construction, and gardening. I pretty much live in under the knee knickers because I hate above the knee shorts.

[@ragnkja]

By “knickers” I guess you mean knickerbockers and not underpants?

[@lieselemay]

@@ragnkja Yes, knickers as opposed to dirty knickers. I'm guessing the term is regional. My mother used to make me below the knee garments when I was really little and she always called them knickers, so that is the term I know them by. Just looked up the Music Man lyrics for "Trouble" and you're right he referres to them as knickerbockers. 😁

[@ragnkja]

@@lieselemay They’re called “knickers” in Norwegian as well, but in English I’ve only ever seen it in a British English context, and only in the “underpants” meaning.

[@lieselemay]

@@ragnkja We have always been rebels in our family. 😂

[@MamaMonsterPride]

Liese Lemay I grew up calling them knickers too. In high school and college I was always looking for a pattern but the few I found were not what I was looking for. I took to wearing capris and rolling them up, still not what I wanted but..

[@thepeacefish]

This silk is such a beautiful & ethereal color. Would breeches usually have been in the ivory/beige family or were they sometimes more brightly colored?

[@ce4072]

Historical anime says yes.

[@annedavis3340]

Greys, palest pink, salmon, robin's egg,

[@Prizzlesticks]

Bring back the breeches, everyone wear them. They look so damn fly.

[@dontbeabeachmyrtle3871]

Your hand stitches are impeccable! So talented ❤️

[@rebekahharris2738]

That welt pocket is glorious!

[@sygirl101]

I love the work in these! Really sublime.

[@erinrabideau3691]

Oh my gosh! This video is an exercise in some of the most beautiful hand stitching I’ve ever seen 😱! The finished breeches are absolutely stunning and suit you perfectly. You are working that butch energy at the end haha! I would love to watch a hand sewing tips and tricks video from you- especially about hand sewing buttonholes! Loving your videos!

[@skirtedgalleons]

Le Sigh. I love your videos sooo much. And that button hole cutter blew my mind, time to shop.

[@maidenrohina]

That yellow dress is stunning on you, this tutorial was fantastic.

[@hobknobcreations4737]

I am so happy to listen/watch your videos. You have such a soothing voice and give off the cool person vibes. And now I'm off to learn more sewing things!!!

[@samanthawilliams9710]

Beautifully done! They are really stunning!

[@warrenenglish942]

I really enjoy watching you work. It's so quiet and confident. I learned a lot, too. Thanks!

[@IaMmeMilly]

This was a pure beauty to behold!!!!! It simply put, gave me joy!

[@shespeex8413]

The nuggets of wisdom you drop so casually are life-changing. Thank you for sharing what you know. I’ve struggled through many garments, and breezed through others. A good teacher , guiding principles, and proper technique can make the difference between a struggle and a pleasure in making garments. You are awesome, thank you!!!

[@Midlife_Manical_Mayhem]

i just love all of your perfect little tiny stitches, all in straight rows. i wish i had taken in more knowledge on sewing and techniques back in my younger years, when things stuck better. i enjoyed this very much.

[@soniatriana9091]

Wow! How nice that you’re sharing your tailoring skills & talents! Your workmanship is flawless & beautiful, it reminds me of my grandmother’s & mother’s sewing skills! Thank you for sharing & for all the historical info!

[@sandradearing604]

FABULAOUS! You have an eye for detail that I know you have learned over many years and I LOVE that you share that with me! TY again!

[@blueartille]

For period men's clothing i really enjoy the cutter's practical guide. I recently made some knickerbockers to my exact side by following the directions, and it's totally time accurate because it's from the period.

[@christelsmit9223]

Wow... I am just in awe of your hand sewing. The patience you must have😱 Very well done. What an inspiration

[@published1789]

Wow. Awesome details. Classy & glam results.

[@Jeffrey_troutman]

This is absolutely the best and coziest corner of youtube.

[@justheather4144]

I love the word education. It's cool to see the history of our words & how they've changed in time to what we say today. Great job on the breeches too. 👍

[@undecidedgenius]

Looking through the comments, I am wondering if I am the only straight person watching these (I might be the only guy too, for that matter) BTW, thank you for making work on men's clothing...You and Marius are the only people that I found that regularly do men's clothing ( I am sure there is more, I just have not found them yet :-)

[@FromtheMPR]

Envy of your button holes. OMG - chefs kiss. So amazingly well done.

[@queerlydearly]

i have been waiting for a video like this for AGES... theres so little content on here for historic menswear and i was so so happy to see this pop up!!!

[@cobraf16uk]

Thank you a good look at constructing menswear. I have been looking at making some breeches for myself and this has been a great help

[@izzyeis5752]

sewing asmr 🤩 this was so interesting!! this is the first time i found a video on making these and not anything going into women's wear!! you give so much information