19" G07 Arcade Monitor Chassis Repair - DEAD....But Everything Checks Good? Bad Flyback?

[@xmarks-spot]

Thanks! Got my dead G07 up and running. It had a blown fuse, shorted voltage regulator and shorted HOT and I replaced the flyback for good measure. I would never have been able to repair it without you and your taking the time to make and upload this video. 🙏😃

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Great!

[@thomasandrews7119]

Great work brother as always. I HIGHLY recommend getting an fr-301 or at least a zd915 it'll change your life.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Thanks. I'll look into them. I had a Hakko but it kept getting clogged and threw it out after getting frustrated.

[@AmigaofRochester]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair the fr-301 is what i use daily, i work on monitors, psus, etc. i have it set to 2.5 or so. the zd-915 also clogs, so maybe not use that one :P the hakko you just need to regularly clean with a rod and the cleaning tool. but you can get a tip big enough to even do flybacks. i use a 1.0mm tip but they make them all the way to like 3mm.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Copy. Thanks. "I'm sorry that I didn't build you a stronger ship, young Rose."

[@mrbrooks9969]

Always something to learn. Thanks.

[@willrussell01]

Hey Mike! I was introduced to your channel on the arcade help repair Facebook group. Do one of your videos have how to discharge the monitor chassis from the …monitor? I’m working on a G07 for the first time with no prior CRT experience and I don’t have any fancy HV test proabes

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Hey Will. Just take a flathead screwdriver, attach an alligator clip with a wire to it, attaching the other end to the monitor frame, stick the screwdriver under the anode cap, and that’s all you need to do. When you hear the snap, you’re good. If you hear no snap, it was already discharged. This explains it… kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4echZduq6aVZrs

[@briancarvo124]

I say every repair video from now on should have mike singing a tune

[@jakeannal6304]

Hi Mike, first off thanks for these great videos. Incredibly helpful for a newbie such as myself. I am testing my voltage regulator and B+ resistor and I am getting 216 ohms on the resistor and a drop of .26 rather than .18 on the white lead. How should I know what operating range for these components is? Thanks!

[@TheGeekPub]

Hey Mike! Which arcade is yours? I'd love to visit.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Shoot me a message if you plan on coming by. I’d love to say hello! thearcadewichita.com kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZfHZX1vmtd6mqs

[@youvsyou945]

Those screws don't line up right on these new flybacks all the time...last one I had the fly fully seated best possible and just used a zip tie through the holes and it works great. Great vid, thanks!

[@jandclinan]

I've been scouring the net for a more detailed schematic of the GO7-CBO chassis such as B+ around the vertical and power supply area. I've looked this chassis over and replaced what defective items were found. I bought this arcade game with a vertical width problem which usually is a bade filter cap. I've replaced all caps, even both output vertical transiters just to be on the safe side even though both showed good. I have 119v on the collector of X401, and bout 39v on the collector of X402. I've checked every diode and resistor in that circuit and can't find any reason why no vertical defelection. I've tried Sams Photofacts without any luck. I am retired electronics tech been working since the late 70's thru early 2000, now I just dabble in it. I came to find out later that this was a man made issue which adds to the frustration. Any help would be appreciated.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

I would highly suspect a crack in the board at this point.

[@jandclinan]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I've been all over the board especially circuit around the flyback, but will go over it again. I miss my Sencore toys

[@jasonhudgins9437]

Shame the replacement flybacks do not last as long as the originals.

[@dime666bag]

Awesome video sir .

[@peterkaufman199]

Those screw holes never line up for me on after market flybacks or the holes are to big for original hardware

[@CarlBeatty]

Does the arcade machine have to be on the ground in order to get rid of the voltage with a screwdriver-wire-alligator clip connected to the metal chasis. I have an old zaxxon cabinet with a line down the middle of it, and I cant figure out what is wrong,,, I've heard of vertical collapse, but still don't know what I need to adjust, because the game comes on, I drop a quarter and it begins, but cant see the game. Just a line.

[@jumpingeneral]

Which setting do you turn to on your tester ? Sometimes it gets confusing with so many choices Thank u

[@thunderxxxhydro5738]

Hello! How would I get a hold of you for a possible repair?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

You can reach me at [e-mail] but I'm not taking repairs in at the moment. Got a lot of backlog to finish up and I’ll be gearing up to move my arcade in a few weeks. I’ll add your name to my list and reach back out once I’m ready to take them in. My apologies

[@thunderxxxhydro5738]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Ok sounds good I will do that. Thanks

[@barrylenhart7240]

Did you have neck glow with the bad flyback?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Nope

[@barrylenhart7240]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair My Go7 in my PP2 is doing the same symptoms as yours. Totally Dead. the B plus resistor is 218 ohms. Voltage regulator and Hot are within specs. F901 and F902 are ok. B plus at resistor is only 65 volts.. Bad flyback???

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Very likely.

[@CarlBeatty]

This cabinet is smelly old and dusty so Iam trying to figure out how to clean it without getting shocked.

[@TheRealHammerBillyLee]

Insane Clown Posse! Whoop whoop!

[@toddwilliams477]

ICP the worst ever.

[@leonardoalves2484]

Excelente vídeo de manutenção, eu trabalho com manutenção em fliperama, temos vários monitores wei-ya com flyback com defeito, não encontra pra comprar.

[@tonye4176]

Nice easy one!