19 Will my Salvage Boat Repairs Fail?

[@gorgenengman4074]

Hey Bryan is ther no more videos coming ???? regades from Sweden

[@BryanSailing]

I'm still alive and still working on the boat, but due to personal and work issues have not been able to release more videos. I've been filimg, so I should be able to put some more out shortly.

[@gorgenengman4074]

@@BryanSailing okej yeah stuff happens and specely now i Covid time but i realy like your videos u tale it how it is and why i learn a lot from what u are doing thx for answers and keep up your good work and videos see u soon again regardes from Sweden

[@tonystanley8218]

i dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can give me!

[@orionbrentley154]

@Tony Stanley Instablaster :)

[@tonystanley8218]

@Orion Brentley i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@ronmonks6325]

I'm learning a lot Bryan. Appreciate what you do.

[@JF-4444]

I love how methodical you're being. it really makes sense to test things before just carrying on and finding out later that something's not bonding or that's something is too brittle or weak great work. That's real engineering.

[@Port883]

Miss your videos

[@richardgooding498]

This is what is great about the sailing channels. You guys are a wealth of knowledge and you Bryan yourself explain everything great. Good job

[@aarnemoisio5654]

Hey man waiting to see more videos You are handyman and different than other boat builders

[@charlesc.6767]

Im glad to see you taking it serious. If youve ever been caught in big seas and you hear the boat trying to come apart its a sound youll never forget . Its one of the scariest things ive been thru , Most people dont have a clue how bad it can get in such a short period of time, Your saying your prayers hoping she stays together until the hell stops.

[@johndodds7949]

Can’t wait for your next repair work

[@billhorterjr1982]

Another great video, I liked the last one too, very informative, you are getting better at these videos each time, excited to see the progress on the boat! Keep em coming! and thanks!

[@toddtwenter3242]

I'm thinking how much time I spend just watching videos. I can't imagine the effort you are going through doing the work, filming and publishing.

[@customflht]

I really do like the comparison with the different types of materials used .. keep the videos coming Bryan ..

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks, will do!

[@TheMarpalm]

Really interesting video. Good explanations, good clear discussion and good straight forward technical details

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks

[@Micington]

Thanks for doing the experiments! Much appreciated!

[@ConfusedSoul24]

This replicates my experience over the years. There are several things to keep in mind with resins. First and foremost, every resin is different. The properties of one epoxy to another can vary greatly, also the handling of it makes a huge difference. Temperature, humidity, resin to fibre ratio, fibre alignment, contamination all make it so that replication on even a professional level is very hard. This is the main reason why formula one and aerospace are going towards prepregs. It takes a lot of variables out of the equation. Generally speaking however, polyester is cheap, has a low modulus, is britle, and the secondary bounding is way worse than it's primary bonding. It is therefore good for high quantity production but useless on repairs. Epoxy is expensive, has secondary bonding that is comperable to its primary bonding but it is very susceptible to temperature and especially humidity. On an amateur level and for smaller repairs it is the perfect choice. However, one should shop around and test different epoxies because they behave very differently. Vinylester is inbetween the two in almost all cases but it has a low shelf life and I would only recomend it on new builts or large repairs like you are doing to lower the cost.

[@stevenr8606]

Damn Bryan, started to think about Champagne sailing in light blue water and white sand beaches all under sunny skyies. Then 🤯, reality 👍 Keep going !!!!!

[@NotaFlea]

Great video giving the information that we need to know. Keep up the good work.

[@mikehoskin9816]

Nice job Bryan ! Nice way of testing and informing us .

[@renem6441]

What great video!! Keep them coming

[@kasperdelauder6999]

I love watching I have learned so much and u give me hope . I think I am going to miss it when boat is done

[@gman9945]

Very interesting Mr. Wizard!

[@kenbaustin4533]

Love the tech talk! Get all you can outside during the cool weather and then move inside during the summer heat!

[@abdabzeebop2]

Another good thing about you recording all this in such detail; when you eventually come to sell the boat, the next owner has an in depth record of the repairs second to none. Probably more to feel reassured about than buying a new one.

[@408murph]

Hi Bryan - I commend you for testing samples using materials and method of fabrication you are going to use for the repair. Great job! I noticed on the testing that the general epoxy sample slipped in the grip and you had to retighten this might explain the low result. Also wood between the load cell started as a piece of plywood, looks like it was reused despite being broken and eventually replaced with a scrap of hard wood. I would think this has an effect on your results. Also, some good comments posted on stress strain curve and 'Auroa' using an adhesion promotor for polyester repair. Thanks for sharing.

[@KnottsFishing]

Awesome video, ive always wonder myself how well repairs can hold up.

[@AlyxeZeZ]

Great video! Just as an advice on video editing I could suggest double-checking that the voiceover is in stereo so that when viewers are listening with headphones the voiceover comes out of both headphones. Some voiceovers in this video came through the left headphone only. That is just a simple mistake everybody makes and it is nothing to worry about, just something to look out for in the future - could just double the same voiceover in both left and right sound channels if you are recording with a mono microphone. Looking forward to more content. Can’t wait until the boat is finished!

[@BryanSailing]

Sorry about the VO issues, I missed that when checking the video

[@vettepicking]

I squeegee thickened resin on the foam core very firmly in 2 directions then lay glass out. Helps with bonding and air pockets

[@BryanSailing]

Great tip

[@BreakingBarriers2DIY]

Where software development and project management really shines. Thanks for this...like Mythbusters :)

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks for watching all the videos than the great comments! ⛵💻

[@BreakingBarriers2DIY]

@@BryanSailing sorry for the flood of comments as I get caught up to you guys. :)

[@svdaydreamer8822]

Are you ok? Miss your videos

[@BryanSailing]

Yes, I'll get back to it shortly, I'm still working on the boat and filming

[@mjcooke2sailingmostly]

A way to make a better bond with polyester repair is to soften the area first with acetone.

[@Mechone11]

A better repair is not to use polyester, it absorbs water which leads to osmosis and delamination

[@ConfusedSoul24]

The strength of polyester comes from forming bonds on a molecular level during the curing phase aka polymerization. The complete structure becomes one giant molecule where every atom is conected to its neighbors. For a complete reaction the polyester resin has to be sealed from the air. This is achieved by the mold from one side and with wax from the other. The wax is added to the resin when the last layer(s) is laminated and flows to the surface. Acetone is used to remove the wax because it inhibits any resin to stick to the surface. Acetone will NOT soften polyester if it is fully cured. The thinner in polyester is by the way styrol, not acetone. But also styrol will not soften polyester, because the polymerization of the resin is ireversible.

[@doughatch1030]

Looking forward to seeing your continued progress and success. Very good info in your vid re comparative resin strength. Like you allude to, a stress/strain curve would also have been interesting for your tests. Added frivolity: With the wave crash image background at the beginning of the vid, I think you could add great realism by having someone out of view, drench you with a bucket of water. It also could be a great way to get the family involved.

[@photographyisnotacrime7300]

Love your videos and how you go about repairing your cat. Keep up to good work. Just FYI- You showed a stress strain graph of metal. The one for composites is very different in the sense as soon as something breaks it can no longer take load (at least not to the level of when the damage occurred). So for composites the graph you showed will go to the yield strength position, assuming that's where the failure occurred, the stress strain graph will go straight down to zero as it can no longer support a load.

[@danwilliams6882]

I like that costco table for doing the laminent testing

[@Bri-wi8kq]

Ahahahahaha!.. Bryan, you kill me! Keep 'em coming along.

[@raygunnar8174]

Thanks for the education

[@williamlewis8741]

always informative your videos. merci beaucoup

[@larrymills4223]

great video. Very informative. Keep up the great work Byran

[@marcopolo242]

Excellent video man!

[@BryanSailing]

Appreciate it!

[@jeffmelton6875]

Great video. I like the quick and dirty sanity check approach that you are taking. Bottom line: you can't put a price tag on feeling safe

[@BryanSailing]

Well said!

[@victorlindquist5154]

Been a month without a video release. Hope things are good!

[@BryanSailing]

I'll get back to it shortly, but I'm still working on the boat and filming

[@victorlindquist5154]

Excellent! Really enjoy your videos Sir. I will be looking for them

[@bodywood]

This is really great so thanks taking us through your testing. Very worth while for that peace of mind knowing you are using the best or near best method not just products. Something I would like to know more about is how to optimise that first layer. The first layer will be the mechanical boundary layer and the critical point of delamination if not done right. The subsequent wet on wet lamination should not be an issue but however many layers you apply they all hang on that first layer.

[@BryanSailing]

I'll try to show that in an upcoming video

[@ussweeneyd]

Very valuable test info !

[@spyglassfreowestaus2733]

Another excellent video!

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks again!

[@romanniki5610]

polyester is good when you clean the surface sand and wash with acetone, miss those steps and it will delaminate,

[@scarface-39]

That definitely answered some of my questions and concerns!!! 👍🇺🇸

[@professormoptop]

After the testing and showing the results would you consider epoxy over vinyl ester resin?

[@Hindukushsailing]

Hi I enjoy your rebuild and your approach to problems. I am upgrading my 1965 Pearson Triton and I have no experience with fiberglass laminate boat builds. I am reinforcing my deck to hull joint and I was also concerned with hard points. If I made it to robust it may crack in another area. I was thinking if I tapered it out with my laminate to spread the load. ?? I posted a 1:30 second video on where I am at on my channel. Sorry to ask could you give me advice on what would be a good idea and or things to consider? If not then I understand thank you again.

[@BryanSailing]

I left a comment on your video. Looks like a fun project.

[@StanVoro]

Very very cool leaving comments for KZbin algorithms

[@cory0702]

Was a good test, your one fail may have just been preparations. Either way there all very strong. Why are you using bondo?

[@mtrezaie]

Can you comment on what "Sailing Aurora" has done for the repairs? They have used polyester but for better binding, they have used another layer to connect the polyester to the core. So what if you re-do the test using their method? They have done some tests, and they showed that the binding layer can be a lot stronger than direct polyester.

[@BryanSailing]

There are so many ways to repair and many that will work and many that only sort of work. My test are really about proving what I'm doing is going to be good enough for me and my boat. I can't really say much about other methods that someone else is using, but I assume if they tested it it should be fine.

[@smartprocesssolutions748]

Your boat is as strong as your weakest link, you make sure you don’t have any! If it can happen, it will, so double down on the bulkheads, that is where it will happen.

[@KEIFabrication]

I really like the testing. Can you provide the make and model or the load cell and the readout? And where to purchase them?

[@BryanSailing]

Load cell: amzn.to/37BIifY

[@BryanSailing]

Display: amzn.to/3scp1JV

[@KEIFabrication]

Thanks so much! These are just what I have been looking to do some destructive testing in my classroom.

[@coopw101]

Dude i think its going to be fine.

[@ynAMe6Aj]

With all the repair skills you are developing you can go ahead and do a destructive test on the hull after it is repaired ;-)

[@BryanSailing]

I'm sure some reef when the anchor drags or another hurricane will do that for me

[@josidasilva5515]

What you are doing is great, but an exoskeleton structure is best evaluated with a computer module. The boat's manufacturer should have one made and tell you the most critical points to reinforce, and as you said, those points that actually need to flex in order to maintain structural integrity.

[@Jimmyb918]

Great content

[@willada4386]

Hey Bryan, I don't know if you can do it even be impossible. Really like to see you rebuild an engine?

[@BryanSailing]

When I rebuild the other engine I'll show the whole thing.

[@johncampbell3221]

Awesome!

[@jedisonic35]

You are great!!!

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks

[@davidantill6949]

Nice video by the way.

[@BryanSailing]

Thanks!

[@davidantill6949]

Bryan I have looked this up several times but can't find a clear answer. Can polyester, vinylester and epoxy all be used as a resin for bonding with glass fibres/filaments? Does waterproofing and strength go up in each case and apart from cost, are there any disadvantages as you move from polyester to vinylester and then epoxy?

[@BryanSailing]

All can be used. Vinylester and epoxy are stronger and more waterproof - polyester is not. Other than cost there is no disadvantages of Vinylester over polyester, it's better in every way. Only one with epoxy is it's not recommended to put gelcoat over top (paint is fine)

[@davidantill6949]

@@BryanSailing Thanks for clearing that up for me. Perhaps paint rather than gel coat (as you state is required for epoxy) might be an advantage as more variety is available.

[@jascan1489]

What was the boat originally made of, if was said I missed it.

[@BryanSailing]

Vinylester and Polyester

[@jacquesfloirat2642]

Fantastic.

[@BryanSailing]

Many thanks!

[@dwtrksvc]

Are these tests giving you psi breakage resistance? I am guessing that like most sailboat channels that do extensive repair, your repairs will far exceed manufacturing standard tolerances.

[@z_actual]

Im cool with your tests all you should be trying to do is prove the repair exceeds the original, and this far that looks good to me one caution, Im in Au which can get hot,109F is not that uncommon its harder to judge working pot life of epoxy on the field when the mix is 5:1 vs 2:1 or 1:1 which means the stuff either burns up in the pot or never goes off because it just rained and temps dropped cheers

[@duhe98]

When you're a bad armature welder like me, PRO's call you a grinder, not a welder.

[@danmallery9142]

Yep, I have heard something to the affect, "good grinding hides bad welding". Welding it like fly fishing. It takes an hour to learn how to do it and the rest of your life to get good at it.

[@SteelDoesMyWill]

I can greatly appreciate the spirit of doing the testing, but as many people have pointed out there are so many variables so the results would be 'iffy' at best. One thing you have to consider with your epoxy samples (and probably any resin for that matter) is that it actually doesn't reach 'full cure' for days or even weeks after the laminate is laid up. To save anyone the time, effort, and cost of this type of testing where you really can't be totally certain of the results: if you don't have the actual lay-up schedule of the original laminate (and most people won't) measure the sample and determine the finished thickness of glass on each side. Lay up your new glass to equal or exceed that thickness (but not crazy excess). Where ever a feathered repair is, and most repairs are usually that, I'd exceed the original laminate thickness by 15 to 20%. If you go with epoxy on your repairs, you should have no worries what so ever. On large repairs, Vinyl Ester makes total sense, but I wouldn't use polyester on repairs ever, I wouldn't even use polyester to build a new boat. Vacuum bagging is your friend and you should use it wherever feasible. It does not have to be infusion, just wet lay up and bagged... the breather cloth and peel ply absorb a significant amount of the excess resin but the most important factor is the perfection of laminate compression plus lack of air bubbles. Its worth the extra prep time and consumable cost... Vac pumps aren't as expensive as people seem to think.

[@scarface-39]

I believe that he does have the original layup laminate schedule. I could be mistaken though

[@SteelDoesMyWill]

@@scarface-39 Its extremely helpful if he does, takes out a lot of guess work!

[@kss38ma]

I worked with a friend who was a laminater at PDQ. Their boats were polyester above the waterline. You should be able to smell the difference between build resin when you grind the glass. I agree with one of the previous comments, if you can vacuum bag the foam on you will get a much better repair. Keep at it.

[@marclyonhardman]

Where did you go?

[@sebastianhugely7035]

If you’re doing lost of round get something that can rotate the work (a manipulator) tig the Queen of welding remember the only difference between mild steel and stainless is the carbide once’s it’s gone it will rust use aluminium foil to purge underneath thin gauge welding

[@toddtwenter3242]

Hey Bryan I am looking at salvage cats on Yacht Salvage. Can I pay you to go with me to BVI and buy a boat and make a repair assessment? I'm not sure how to reach you other than the channel so I'll watch and see if you reply.

[@BryanSailing]

You can message me on instagram or email me using my first name at the domain of my store.

[@doughatch1030]

Things that make your sitch unique vs 'the others': you are mechanical enough to take a crack at motor repair and re assy, you have owned a sailboat previously so this isn't 'pure naive fancy' like some of the others, you've done your homework on materials and methods. Little concerned about costs and time. Hope to see you succeed.

[@kobboy007]

Please change your voice over to be on both audio channels, not just the left one. :) Anyway, nice and valuable tests! Looking for more fixing. :)

[@BryanSailing]

Noted!

[@zenontremol8571]

Super !

[@TheJustonemore]

Hope your okay?

[@MartyDidier]

It’s felt Boat Manufacturers won’t release testing of their boats materials. That’s sad, as much could be learned. There are well documented Material Flow models to understand what is happening. Realize Metal Flow models will be similar as most other materials, composites may be more complex. They still will have the weakest based on the weakest material used. Ie the weakest chain is its weakest link! Picture a central datum line that runs in the center of the thickness of the test item. The inner radius compresses while the outer radius elongates during flexing. The design of draw dies as an example, is based on the target material tensile strength. Small radius produce breaks while larger radius flow. Another concern is grain direction. What may break is the glue strength ie epoxy, resins, etc. These strengths are published by manufactures. Compare the published results with your type of resin/glue samples. What was noticed was the foam core was compressing. There’s probably different types of sponginess in foam cores. Also some use balsa wood as core material. I’m thinking the sponginess is needed to absorb denting as opposed to a breakthrough crack. How else do we repaid average dents? Commented on prior video release about wanting to see more explanations of what your doing. This was a well done video!

[@IrenESorius]

👍‍‍👍‍‍!!

[@vulturemunchies4692]

💙

[@dnomyarnostaw]

The Fibreglass industry uses a drop impact strength test, rather than sheer and bonding test like this. The bonding interface test is pretty irrelevant, as the pressures should only be in compression, never sheer.

[@bizim_eller]

👍👍🙂

[@michaelanderson1788]

👍👍👍

[@phrdcstl]

💂‍♂️👍

[@nunyadamnbness2259]

Bryan - I just noticed I wasn't receiving notifications on youtube for your channel. When I select the notifications bell, it says "This action is turned off for content made for kids". It gives me a button to click for "Learn more". When go to that page, there is a message at the bottom that says - "Per our announcement in September 2019, we’ve made some changes to better protect kids and their privacy, and to address concerns raised by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC). If their content is child-directed, creators are required to set their video or channel’s audience as “made for kids.” According to the FTC’s guidance on the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act (COPPA), a video is made for kids if: *Children are the primary audience. *Children are not the primary audience, but the video is still directed to children based on factors such as the subject matter of the video, whether the video has an emphasis on kids characters, themes, toys or games, and more." I just wanted to make sure you were aware of that youtube policy. I don't know what that does for the algorithm.

[@BryanSailing]

I'm going to have to take a look. I specifically select "not made for kids" when I upload. Not sure why it's doing that. I wonder if anyone else is having issues.

[@johndodds7949]

? Next video, or are you on holiday

[@theodorakisyiacoumi75]

why build grp in polyester in the first place if its so bad ive used polyester for 25 years never had a fialeure done biger jobs then the one your doing its how you use it your doing agood job but the cost is triple

[@xfoxtrotwiskeykilo995]

Manufacturer didn't build it as strong , get back to work slacker , Cheers !

[@mmigran]

Total waste of airtime.

[@scarface-39]

I enjoyed it👍🇺🇸