1911 Build 2 (9mm) - Part 3 - Chamber Reaming

Part 3 of my second 80% 1911 build. In this part I ream the short chamber of the barrel.

[@alanex5225]

I like just about every video MosinVirus created. Thank you!

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you very much

[@jumpman2334]

THANK YOU. I would love to build a 1911 from an 80% frame and have no knowledge how to do so (other than thr frame work). These videos are EXTREMELY helpful. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you for watching. Glad my videos could help.

[@alanex5225]

I'll bet you can build it easily. Don't take too much off the barrel hood at first when fitting barrel. Coat it with dykum or felt marker and determine where it's rubbing. Then polish that area down. Make sure you have the seat cut radius on top of frame even if it is a para/clark or wilson/nowlin cut. That radius lets the barrel sit down onto the frame where it's supposed to be.

[@calebburnett]

I've been following your videos for this build and am really enjoying them. Looking forward to the next video.

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you... learning a lot on this build. It is giving me a lot to deal with so far and I kind of like it. The next video is actually saving right now. I am going to watch it and if it is all good will upload in the next 30 min.

[@judofry]

Thanks for the info, got a stuck case today, from what I can tell it is because my chamber is a little too shallow. So, what happened was the brass bulged a tiny bit and got stuck where it was unsupported. The slide and barrel go into battery, which is why I never reamed the chamber on my build but when I checked the height of the 9mm rounds they were slightly high, like you demonstrated (after I hammered out the stuck empty). Was an unfortunate early ending to a sorely needed range trip. When it rains it pours I guess.

[@MosinVirus]

judofry if a live round chambered, your chamber is probably cut to correct depth. The bulge can result from not having enough case support as you mentioned. I would advise having a smith check out your chamber depth before you ream it more.

[@judofry]

Will do :) It really surprised me because I have a Clark/Para style barrel with integral feed ramp, and I have already ran over 1k rounds already. The only other thing I can think it might be, is the ammo (I was shooting Freedom Munitions 115gr), but I have never had problems with them before and no signs of over-pressure on the case, primer looked good. Anyway, thanks for the detailed reply you are awesome!

[@MosinVirus]

I have had issues with Freedom Munitions before. A long time ago. Haven't tried them since, but I hear they corrected their issues. Not sure what the problem may have been. I would say try to use other ammo and see if the issues go away.

[@Kikinahm]

Unfortunately, I now need a 45 reamer. 😣

[@davida2043]

Just watching one of your older videos and I gotta thank you again. You explain things soo easily and I keep learning new things from all your videos, great work as always!!

[@MosinVirus]

+Davida204 Thank you for watching. Glad you like my videos.

[@tomharrell1954]

These vids are super. You do really great work. I think I would face the breech before fitting the barrel.

[@MosinVirus]

you are absolutely right. I have actually started doing that.

[@scottenlow5249]

That depth may work for that particular bullet with that particular ogive, but if you move up to a 147 gr projectile it may be a different story. A short chamber and a long over all length on the loaded round could cause an over pressure situation when the bullet is forced back into the case. My CZ's have very short chambers and need some 147gr projectiles loaded short to fit in the chamber without contacting the lands.

[@MosinVirus]

Great to know. Thank you.

[@tonykomer2997]

First excellent videos. You help a lot of new to gunsmithing with these videos. About the issue of chambering. It depends on use and goals. After all this is a custom not factory standard build. Form where you start and the other posters comment....The issue could also be the case mouth. There are two different dimensions to set in a short gunsmith chamber. One is the case headspace. Then other is the throat for COAL for different bullet nose shapes. You also have to take into consideration if you plan to reloads and what the magazine limits are etc. But if going with factory ammo you need to set throat to allow say a few thou jump to the lands. But who builds guns that does not reload? In the case of reloading for max accuracy and orecision you would need to dykem the bullet or do the spin test first. As he pointed out the shorter fired case sits flush. What you are suppose to do is use the go gauge to set to minimum SAAMI depth. But remember many guns actually end up headspacing off the extractor. If this was a competition gun for say bullseye work you would use say virgin Starline case average set headspace off that case with a few thou on each side and still staying in the minimum headspace. But if you are 7sing mixed cases then you need to set off a go guage as all manf will set toward the cartridge which is smaller. Then you have the throating which again dykem and set as mentioned above or whatever larger jump you wish. Fact is if you want max accuracy you will set off reload and if you want as a carry gun using factory ammo you will set to min SAAMI. As Cardy you will likely carry Fed HST or Win Ranger-T bullets in their respective factory .cases For max accuracy with target reloads it will be Hornady XTP or HAP bullets 115, 124, 147gr and Starline dases. No matter what before you use any new load you should always do the basic plunk and spin test to be sure it's not jammed into the lands or cases too long.

[@VeritasAequitas178]

Great video for me as a novice at these things.

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you. I am glad it helps.

[@wemcal]

Great video

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you

[@George1Frank]

You need a go no go gauge there’s no guarantee that the round you used for a guide was of the correct size to start with, it probably was but if you load a magazine and it hits and misses and you constantly have to clear it then you’ve got a mess

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you. I agree.

[@williamtownsend3279]

you are using a production round of ammo for spec to cut metal from your gun. Unless you cut cases they will vary.

[@MosinVirus]

Makes sense. I should have used a gauge.

[@ac31415927]

Great vid. At 1:09, the caption says "This handle does not fit the reamer". So what kind of reamer wrench did you end of using? I am wondering if a 3/8" square socket wrench would work. Thanks.

[@MosinVirus]

I used a regular adjustable wrench, but that is a sure way to mess things up, since you only get one handle, and therefore you apply force on just one side, which could lead to tilting. A socket wrench would probably be better, but I would simply get a larger tap holder.

[@cal30m1]

You should use a 9mm go and no go instead of a loaded round when you finish ream

[@MosinVirus]

You are correct.

[@frankvagas3853]

One question, how much does the envelope have for a short gun, I mean turn by length, and how many stretch marks?

[@MosinVirus]

Sorry, I don't understand the question.

[@petetracker3472]

Great video! Good job! Going to be a shooter!

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you. This build is fighting back a bit, but so far I have been able to overcome the hurdles. Hope it turns out a good one. Didn't have time last night to post another video - bottom lugs cutting. Will be posting it today.

[@martybain9169]

I like your low cost, manual approach. But given the importance of headspace, why didn't you use a go/nogo gauge instead of a live round?

[@MosinVirus]

simply didn't have those. I also use a prime less casing to check firing pin alignment with bore instead of using an alignment gauge.

[@KLH1966]

Field gauge too. Do not use a loaded round. Don't be a primitive Pete. Use the right tools.

[@MosinVirus]

@@KLH1966 agreed.

[@TheFireGoose]

Nice

[@MosinVirus]

Thank you

[@mrthomaslaux1]

Is a little round wiggle normal? Or it has to be tight as possible?

[@MosinVirus]

For consistent performance the headpsace should be accurate, so the case is tight between the chamber shoulder and breechface.

[@kennethbaldoraso7077]

Does reaming a barrel affect the accuracy of the pistol? I had my barrel reamed but then i could not get a tight group shots. It seems that it has been erratic.

[@MosinVirus]

A tight chamber will affect reliability and function. I would have to know what was reamed and why.

[@kennethbaldoraso7077]

@@MosinVirus i have a Barsto 9mm barrel reamed. I have observed that when zeroing it has been erratic when using reload ammos. However, when using FMJ it has a nice group shot. Thanks for the reply.

[@truthseeking3818]

@@kennethbaldoraso7077 so its clearly your ammo?

[@MosinVirus]

Reaming the chamber just ensures that the case fits it and if the chamber was short it makes it correct size. But you have to make sure the chamber is not too deep as that will affect headspace negatively. Grouping is affected more by the fit of the barrel to the slide and frame, and by ammo.

[@MosinVirus]

Seems that way.

[@jondavidmcnabb]

Quick Question, are you a famous KZbin welder that hangs out with ChuckE2009?

[@MosinVirus]

No, I don't weld at all.

[@Andrew-nl3ck]

Hi again, sorry, I didn't explain myself clearly. The question was regarding my project. When I was doing my research I came across your videos. In my project I was directed to, take off 3 of the flutes and grind away back edges of the rest of the flutes during chambering. Have you come across anything like this?

[@MosinVirus]

oh. no, never. I have finish reamers so there is nothing that I know of that should be done to them. I never heard anyone suggest to modify reamers.

[@Andrew-nl3ck]

thank you.

[@DontCallMeGarage]

if you are chambering a blank barrel it makes sense to modify the reamer so that its a roughing reamer. and if you are chambering a blank barrel you should use a proper lathe and not try to chamber by hand.

[@MosinVirus]

But my barrel simply has a short chamber.

[@DontCallMeGarage]

Exactly, but I think what Andrew was talking about was chambering a blank barrel.

[@user-is9uz6xh7h]

Can you explain the conversion of the Tokarev barrel to 9 mm 9

[@MosinVirus]

The only thing that is needed is a new barrel bored and chambered for 9mm.

[@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531]

So if you would cut to much away the difference in factory ammo would have caused what issue?

[@MosinVirus]

Basically all issues related to excessive headspace.

[@orhandogan7960]

How did you make the rifling inside the barrel?

[@MosinVirus]

I didn't. The barrel comes rifled, but with short chamber.

[@MyS10Rocks]

When you ream, are you removing the edge that the cartridge sits on or the cone or throat?

[@MosinVirus]

The reamer usually cuts the leade in addition to setting a proper depth for the top edge of the case. Short chambers will not allow the casing to seat deep enough to be in line with he barrel hood.

[@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531]

Hu, I would have never have thought of this. Very nice.

[@joesaja]

What is that purple ink called?

[@MosinVirus]

I think I answered your question somewhere else. It is called layout fluid.

[@123say]

key rifling of barrel from where I buy it in my country not have gun shop teach me who I made drilling rifle barrel key ???

[@totaldla]

I hope nobody used this video as an example of doing it right.

[@MosinVirus]

This is just how I did it.

[@swartzkoft7886]

Stop hating youtube warrior

[@tjwilliams6959]

If you have a properly cut reamer and you have less than .001” gap between the barrel hood and the breech face as it appears he does, it’s simply a depth check. A depth mic would be ideal, but a 9mm case is not going to cause him any issues other than maybe a slightly short chamber which many factory 1911s have anyway.

[@jeffhoeks647]

Good how to video, except for one thing. I don’t know of any armorer or gunsmith who would use a live round to check go, no go of a chamber. That is the most unsafe, and just plain dumb thing I have ever seen. If you are going to shell out the cash for a chamber reamer, you should spend just a bit more for go/no go gauges. Be safe, teach people the right way. Don’t be stupid.

[@MosinVirus]

Thanks for your feedback.