1930 Ford Model A - Part XIII - Poppin' Smoke

As “Lucky 13” unveils itself in this installment of our continued project, I am again, asking for some advice on this…enjoy and thank you.

[@keviny4357]

Time it!

[@duginvirginia5737]

Yes, timing is still off and the timing pin wasn't hitting the recess in the cam gear, so it made it a little difficult ot properly time.

[@sunnyormsby8402]

please never push downward on the hand crank...broken wrist, always insert your hand crank at 7: o'clock, and pull upward. Enjoying your videos, and persistence. 😀

[@sunnyormsby8402]

Watch Paul Shinn's channel. pull number 1 sparkplug, use a piece of coat hanger wire, carefully insert wire into sparkplug hole, the wire will raise up, as you turn crank, that will give you top dead center.

[@duginvirginia5737]

Thank you.

[@johncharlton2602]

Before you start the engine drop the pan and clean out every thing check the oil pump pick up gauze . The pan will be full of sludge which will block the pump pic up and damage the engine . TRUST ME !!! Remove the valve chest door and clean everything the main bearings are fed from the chest one hole in the middle and one each end . I know the oil looked golden when you dipped it all the gloop is nestled around the oil pump

[@danielcomenzo9900]

Is there a reason you aren't using the electric starter?

[@duginvirginia5737]

Yes, the electric starter is not operational and needs removed and rebuilt.

[@pappabob29]

Just did one of these quite literally from a truckload of parts. So mine was, or came, completely apart. I used all of the original "essential/basic" parts (crank,cam,valves/springs, lifters, bearings, carb, block, head). Spent on ignition parts, gaskets, bearing shims, battery, tools, any missing parts I needed. Check it out on my channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJ3Vq6GXhM10idk Sounds to me like when you timed your motor, the piston was at TDC but on the exhaust stroke so it's firing with a open valve. Need to get to TDC and make sure both valves are closed. Put your thumb on the plug hole and feel for the compression stroke while someone turns the motor. After getting the timing correct, I would suggest you begin with fabricating something to support the front of your motor. Next I would remove the starter and see if you can clean it up enough for it to work. Mine had a shorted brush holder but I was able to (shade tree) fix it and it works great. If you don't want to spend money on the starter, having the motor stable and at the correct height will make hand cranking it sooooo much easier. Next, I would get yourself a set of those flat brass plug wires. They're $4.50 at Berts. They have the nut for the front of the crank also If you decide to go that route. Once you get the starter working, use a good 6V battery. If you have old Fordson tractors, use one of those batteries. Don't know what you are using for a battery but it may not be enough. When you crank the motor, choke it for one turn only (quick out and back in on the choke while it's cranking). Idle screw on the carb should be 1 1/4 turns open. GAV should be 1/2-1 turn open. A little "open" throttle is good too!! Good luck!!

[@duginvirginia5737]

Much appreciated for the detailed report and suggestions. The lack of a secure motor mount at the front end is a concern. I'll investigate the timing issue as you suggested and put some time in on the starter and see if I can't get it going. Again, thank you.

[@duginvirginia5737]

I just went back and watched the prior video, and luckily, both valves were closed with #1 at TDC, so hopefully that rules out one issue. // I'm watching your videos now; liked and subscribed. 🙂

[@pappabob29]

@@duginvirginia5737 From our perspective, it sounded/looked like it was "backfiring" out the carburetor. If it was, that suggests the timing is somehow wrong. Maybe it's just too far advanced?? Do you have the timing in the "retarded" position when you are cranking it?? That's where you should have the "retard/advance" positioned when cranking. Don't forget to "wind up" to your TDC in the direction the motor will be turning when it's running so you are accounting for any play/slop in all the distributor/cam gears. You might want to remove that front timing cover so you can identify and deepen (if necessary) the dimple in the timing gear so you can use the timing pin as you are rotating the crank.

[@keviny4357]

Holy shit! You have fuel.

[@duginvirginia5737]

Yes in deed....too much fuel as you will see ! Ha.