1931 Curtiss Wright Travel Air 12w gas tank video #2. Tips and tricks.

[@roballison8528]

These videos are the best you tube has to offer! Thanks again.

[@williamtromblay6795]

Thank you

[@terrydoss8565]

Your content is great, thanks for taking to time to do this.

[@kennethstaszak9990]

More good stuff Bill. I knew most of it but it's nice to be reminded of techniques I haven't used in a while.

[@bobg9873]

More great info! Thanks Bill! Keep 'em coming please.

[@joell439]

Thank you for all the tips. I too love using those never-fail center punches. Those mag-brakes sure are versatile. 👍😎👍

[@stevenboyko5925]

I would enjoy a more in-depth content on making wing ribs. ClarkY/ 35B style. I watched Kent White make them at Airventure over the years. Using a form like you did here, I've struggled getting enough shrink into the nose area without gronking the flange with a shrinker and leaving the serration imprints. I imagine taking the form off and finishing with a dolly and leather faced wood slapper might be a better approach. It's weird how simple things can elude me at times. Appreciate all the effort and content you're shareing!

[@williamtromblay6795]

Hi, thank you for the content idea, I will include making the rib in this video series. I still have to make the end bay ribs. B

[@STP6970]

Awesome information Thank You for sharing with us.

[@haraldolsen5724]

Another interesting video, thanks for sharing.

[@4speed3pedals]

Annular cutters with the soldered on carbide blades are to size and make a very nice finish vs standard hole saw which always cuts a hole larger that labeled. Arbor size may be an issue for people that don;t have the equipment to hold it properly. I got turned onto Gibbs in an aerosol can which works fantastic for preventing rust on bare metal. I also have started using Free to loosen rusted fasteners. I have a Jeep TJ and my tail gate hinges got tight and actually began creaking. I sprayed they with WD40, PB Blaster and even oil. For 2 years nothing worked until I sprayed it with Free.

[@bobg9873]

@4speed3pedals: Is it "Free" or "Free-All" that you used? Two penetrating oils with very similar names!

[@4speed3pedals]

@@bobg9873 I had to look up my purchase as I was unaware of the products with similar names. I purchased Free All and I am very satisfied with it.

[@williamtromblay6795]

I like Gibbs and LPS as well, I came across Boeshield and just kinda switched. I like that it somewhat dries and still protects the material. I have several of the carbide cutters and I agree they are good if you have a chuck big enough to hold them. B

[@RonCovell]

Bill - another wonderful collection of valuable tips. I do have a question. You explained the benefits of lubrication for the hole-punching dies, but you use your foot shear dry. Can you comment on this?

[@williamtromblay6795]

Hi, Well... I think I was caught in the moment of showing how a shear a straight line, I forgot to lube the blade. B

[@jackpledger8118]

Great tips...thanks again.

[@travelers5549]

Thanks for some great tips and tricks. I have had the problem with the larger then 1'' ROTO bits.

[@midnighttutor]

Great tips! I am going to put those short tungstens to work... Quick question: Have you tried the Gibbs rust inhibitor spray vs the Boeshield and if so could you give pro's and con's? Thank you.

[@williamtromblay6795]

I used Gibbs for awhile and then I just kinda switched to Boeshield. I think Gibbs had a slight odor and the Boeshield doesn't but I don't have a better answer than that. B

[@flyovercounty1427]

Thank you

[@williamtromblay6795]

Glad you enjoyed it.

[@trottermalone379]

Another super informative video Bill! Many thanks!! Question - I purchased a gallon of Boeshiled a few years ago and found that when I went to pour it out of the can, it had separated (looks like it uses bees wax as a component). My solution to reconstituting the mixture was to put the can into a bucket of hot water. That didn’t work too well. Even tried to microwave it. No joy. Do you have a solution?

[@williamtromblay6795]

My Boelube separated, and I never found a way to mix them back together. The Boeshield comes in a spray paint can and I haven't had any issue... Yet...

[@trottermalone379]

@@williamtromblay6795 You might. I purchased a spray-can too. Plugged up after about two years. At least I now know why.

[@chrisholmes1666]

Another great video Bill. I was wondering if you could talk about files for use on aluminum sheet doing edge work and corner rounding etc. I have many files of different cuts including ones designated as aluminum cut they all seem to clog rapidly even when chalked I am normally working with softer grades of aluminum like 3003 so maybe that's an issue compared to filing 2024 series ? I am also curious about the proper location and sizes for bend strain relief holes when doing flange bends I have never seen a real clear explanation. Thanks for taking time to do these

[@williamtromblay6795]

I can do a video in the future about metal files and aluminum. I need a little more info on what you mean about the bend strain relief holes? Thx B

[@chrisholmes1666]

@@williamtromblay6795 Thanks Bill . The holes I am referring to I often see on aircraft parts where you have a bend radius involved and would be using bend allowance for the layout of the set back to bend a flange . On a corner where two flanges would meet when they are bent I see holes drilled/punched at the top of the notch so the material in the radius has some where to go while bending. The holes look to be maybe 3/16 or so and I was wondering what is the correct spot to place the hole when doing the flat layout and what size hole based on material thickness and bend radius . Just want to say I am not an aircraft guy but love the stuff .I'm a retired commercial/industrial sheet metal worker and have been involved with racecar fabrication since the seventies .

[@davidb5808]

What about Blair Saws

[@williamtromblay6795]

Haven't tried them, once I found something that worked, I tend to stick with them.

[@davidb5808]

Put your weight into it.