1951 Willys Wagon Left Rear Brake Drum Removal

[@markrandall1456]

The two brake parts are brake shoes. The pad is called friction material. I would take the drums to a shop or auto parts and have them turned. I have made that error in judgement thinking they aren’t too bad-only to get it all together and it doesn’t work well. All the parts are relatively inexpensive at Rock Auto. Some folks refurbish the wheel cylinders but I’m not confident in my skills on that task. I purchase new. Good idea to label your parts. Don’t forget to do that with your wheel cylinders. They are not always the same on all four corners and are easy to mix up. Nice puller by the way. I don’t know if you have a key or swedge where the drum meets the axle or not. It’s easy to install those backwards and ruin your day. From frozen Les Petites Cotes, thanks for the fun.

[@JeremyWilson]

Wow Mark, thanks for the detailed comment. I have no doubt that I’m going to label everything and still mess something up. Turning the brake drums will happen. New wheel cylinders and master plus ebrake cable and brake shoes and pads not yet ordered but spec’d out on Kaiser Willys. I find it difficult to be sure I’m getting the right parts ordered at Rock Auto but may go at it again for cost reasons. The drum is keyed and for now I have left it in but I suppose it’ll have to come out for turning. As always thanks for watching and taking the time to help me out.

[@Convoycrazy]

I really enjoyed this video, your skill in putting videos together is pretty obvious here. I enjoy seeing different “cinemetography styles” for lack of a better term, from actual individual creators and not particularly the big budget big money stuff, for instance. It’s fun to me. I also enjoy your personality and sense of humor. Yep good content. I’ve heard 5 jaw pullers are the way to go; that three jaw hub pullers run the risk of breaking studs. I could tell by the way it was ringing, you had some real oomph on it! It did have a “nice ring to it” though. Will those hubs fit in your lathe? One could clean them up and measure how true they are with a runout gauge… they may not need turned at all…. Although I’ve been known to be extremely frugal. Everything in there looked good from what I could tell… seems that wheel cylinders, master cylinders and plumbing are always focus areas no matter what you’re working on.

[@JeremyWilson]

Johnny, thank you very much for the comments, and for subscribing. I’ve always appreciated your input in everything from my Facebook pages. As for the cinematography, I’ve been watching other KZbin creators and I am just blatantly and ruthlessly copying the best of what they do, except I don’t do it nearly as well as they do. Five jaw puller is awesome. And the BFH helps as well. I was terrified that I hadn’t loosened up some nut or bolt or something that was gonna prevent it from popping off so it made me very happy when it did. My lathe is a 10 inch Atlas and these are 11 inch drums so I’m gonna have to send them off to the machine shop or tire store whoever’s going to be willing to do it. As you say it may not need it, but I can’t dial indicate it on my lathe even to find out whether it does or doesn’t so for 25 bucks I think I’m just gonna go for it. Did a little bit of cleanup on the drum tonight, and I’m just now settling into my easy chair for the rest of the evening. Thanks again for watching and for all your input on the Postal Jeep and soon the Willys Wagon.

[@alrtgy9642]

Seems my projects go pretty much the same as yours.

[@JeremyWilson]

You mean they take decades and quite probably never get finished whilst eating your wallet regularly?

[@alrtgy9642]

@@JeremyWilson I always thought buying the parts was 50% of a project. If so, I've completed half of 90% of my projects, not including the parts I can't find.