1960 17' Chris Craft Super Sport - Sealing Miss Jayne's True 5200 Bottom With CPES 9-27-2024

[@fredburban8219]

I love your tutorials, Everything you do is based on Danninberg and experience. I will say, i have used Smith's CEPS and highly recommend a respirator face mask with the proper filters for that chemical. I have 2 or 3 left over from my days in Cemical plant work and they protect from chemical head aches and long term lung issues. As a side note brush your teeth and keep a breath mint in your mouth when wearing the mask (PPE). Eye protection is recommended while working with this stuff. THANKS AGAIN

[@danieloverbeek2623]

It is really amazing how much progress has been made between your videos! Miss Jayne is looking much better now. I can not wait to see her finished! Thanks for the video!

[@snakemtboatworks]

Thank you, and neither can her owner! :)

[@mikeerstad3705]

Making Great Progress gentlemen......

[@donaldhunt6957]

Why not use stainless fasteners to replace original brass. Thanks

[@snakemtboatworks]

Here is your answer: snakemountainboatworks.com/stainless-steel-fasteners-below-waterline-verboten/ Don Danenberg’s seminal piece on 5200 bottoms, “What is a TRUE 5200 bottom,” Classic Boating, September/October 2014 is a must ready for anyone undertaking replacing an antique or classic wood boat’s bottom. The section on fasteners is particularly apt in this setting: “Stainless steel was invented in 1913. The 300 series (302-316) includes 18-20% chromium and 8-12% nickel. (316 has 2-3% molybdenum, which makes it slightly less susceptible to crevice corrosion.) In the presence of oxygen, the chromium and nickel form a surface coating that protects 70% of the material is mild steel. If you bury them in the hull, covered with putty and paint, they are cut off from oxygen and will soon corrode like mild steel. Only silicon bronze is long lasting here. The only apparent reason some use stainless steel is that, coming from Taiwan, they are cheap!"

[@douglasfedt5299]

Stainless steel fasteners degrade in the absence of oxygen as when buried in the wood with layers of sealer. Always silicon bronze below the waterline.

[@snakemtboatworks]

Here's your answer: snakemountainboatworks.com/stainless-steel-fasteners-below-waterline-verboten/ Don Danenberg’s seminal piece on 5200 bottoms, “What is a TRUE 5200 bottom,” Classic Boating, September/October 2014) is a must ready for anyone undertaking replacing an antique or classic wood boat’s bottom. The section on fasteners is particularly apt in this setting: “Stainless steel was invented in 1913. The 300 series (302-316) includes 18-20% chromium and 8-12% nickel. (316 has 2-3% molybdenum, which makes it slightly less susceptible to crevice corrosion.) In the presence of oxygen, the chromium and nickel form a surface coating that protects 70% of the material is mild steel. If you bury them in the hull, covered with putty and paint, they are cut off from oxygen and will soon corrode like mild steel. Only silicon bronze is long lasting here. The only apparent reason some use stainless steel is that, coming from Taiwan, they are cheap! “It doesn’t matter if they are advertised as ‘marine grade.” That only applies in the presence of oxygen. Please see this website (sic) link: www.stevedmarineconsulting.com… This clip illustrates exactly what Danenberg asserts. These fasteners have been in the chine planks for fewer than eight years, and have already failed completely. Please insist on silicon bronze below - or near - the waterline. In fact, Snake Mountain Boatworks will not fasten anything but hardware with stainless. Yes, the silicon bronze, Frearson head fastener is much more expensive. Here once again is a prima facie example of how eventual cost being seldom equals the initial price. Chines should not fail in fewer than eight years, and replacing them is far, far more expensive than the original cost differential between stainless and silicon bronze would have been had this owner insisted that only the latter be used to fasten her new chines.

[@jerryq1000]

The finished results of your boats are because you don't cut corners! PREPARATION is expensive and time consuming, but you can either do it right, or keep doing it again and again and again...

[@walterhammond290]

Could you more fully explain why the off brands of Smith's are not worth buying.? Exactly why are they garbage comparatively?

[@snakemtboatworks]

In our shop testing, all of them produce a gooey mess that never cures, but have at it.

[@johnanderson3842]

I have run an experiment comparing CPES with MAS epoxy and total boat penetration epoxy. We cut 9 identical 3 inch blocks of marine 3/4 ply and coated then with 1, 2 and 3 coats of each with a day to dry between coats. We then immersed them for a week and then measured moisture with 2 different meters. Total boat, 25 % MAS. 30%. CPES. 90 to 100 percent I suggest others run the same test perhaps based on water weight gain instead of a meter and report the findings. I find his insistence on CPES suspect .

[@snakemtboatworks]

Yup, ran identical tests myself and, guess what? My result, as well as those reached by Don, were diametrically opposed to your failed claims. Of course Don used a proper Don Danenberg ran months and moths of the same and similar tests in laboratory settings. He also spent extensive time working with Steve Smith, who invented CPES. I'll trust our results, but, what is more, I will surely trust Don Danenberg, as you should as well you might if you are able to read his seminal article on the topic that appeared in "Classic Boating." Despite your silly Hollier-than-though attitude, you already did read it, didn't you? Isn't it curious that you appear to have copied /claimed the copy on pages 2 and 3 of Don's article as your own? Here is the link to Don's article.: snakemountainboatworks.com/vintage-boat-preservation-how-to/how-to-apply-true-5200-bottom/#article Be sure to click on the pagination arrows at the lower left of each page to advance through the article.

[@jackjensen5093]

No mask with CPES???

[@snakemtboatworks]

No, except in winter when the shop is closed up. During the rest of the year, we run our "whole-hose" air filtering system together with all doors open and three 42" standing floor exhause fans running at their highest speeds. Walk in from outdoors and, other than all the noise, there are no issues, including no VOCs.