1960 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp Outboard Motor Lake Test

[@jcamp348]

Wow, that really sails along! Great job taking two other wise junk motors and making a great runner out of it. Never disappoints, always enjoy these videos!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Yes, this one turned out well. I'd like to have a better cover for it, but I'll keep a lookout. In the meantime it's a nice motor to run. Thanks for watching!

[@stephenwinter8892]

Greetings from southern Ontario Canada I really enjoyed the video I have several vintage outboard motors my favorite is a 1972 chrysler outboard 75hp on a 2006 pontoon boat here in Muskoka County thanks for the presentation

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Excellent! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!

[@waynerowlinson6177]

Sounds great, and goes well too!. In most cases that motor would have ended up in the junkyard, now it has another 60 years left in it. Good job!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Thank you. I'm very happy with how this one turned out. It seems the 18s I build up from a couple or three junkers usually end up great motors. I'm very glad to have saved this one and kept it out of the smelter. I'm sure it has more years left in it now than I do. I will enjoy running it for amny of them anyway. Thanks for watching!

[@denisgosselin7383]

Nice i have the same Motor but very worn out power head hard to start now. I have other 18 that i run and one of them when warmed up starts in 6 inches of starter rope.

[@dongill8769]

I love those 18s! That's a good sounding motor! Thanks for sharing

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Me too. The 18s are my favorite. This one runs and sounds great. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for watching!

[@labradorguy5311]

Another good look'en rocket! I think I need to lighten up my boat to improve my speed. I usually have a spare motor and two gas cans. My best 18 makes about 23mph tops. Thanks for sharing. dale

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

It may depend on your spare motor. I usually just have a paddle or a set of oars. I had 3 or 4 gallons of water in the bow to try to reduce the porpoising. Being thus boat is 16 feet long, it usually takes a little less ballast to keep it down, but this one will porpoise with strong 10. Extra fuel tank and an extra motor will probably slow you down a bit. A full 6 gallon tank in the bow of my Sea Nymph cast me about 1.5 mph on the top end with my RD-16 pushing. You can probably get a little more top speed if you lighten or just move aft some of the weight. Just far enough to stop porpoising, but not so far that it makes the stern so heavy it is hard to plane. Thanks for watching, Dale!

[@joeybunkerslgl15gbunker25]

They are awesome motors bunk auto n small eng

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Yes, the Fastwins are great. Thanks for watching!

[@edhein8299]

She scoots! Nice job Sir!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Thank you, Ed. This one turned out a nice runner. Looking forward to a run with this one on the Aerocraft. Thanks for watching!

[@philiprawbon2359]

i've got a 1960 Sportwin..but not sure if its a 18 horse..looks exactly like that..got it running last fall

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

If it is a Sportwin, it is a 10hp. The Fastwin is 18hp from 1957-up. Both are excellent motors. Thanks for watching!

[@philiprawbon2359]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 great thanks for that onfo..yea the decal on front of the cowell is faded away..is it just the carb size that makes the differance between the two?

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@philiprawbon2359 You're welcome. No Sir. The 10hp and the 18hp are two completely different outboards. The 10hp is about 17c.i. displacement and the 18hp is 22 c.i.. the 10hp uses an adapted version of the 5.5/7.5 4-bolt gearcase from 1958-1963. The 18hp uses the larger and more durable 5-bolt gearcase. The upper and lower cowls are different sizes as are the propellers.

[@philiprawbon2359]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 great more info..thanks again..weird theres something going on here so i'll have to check all this info out..maybe the power head was changed out on this thing..to an 18?...i'll check block numbers on the casing..ok..here we are..Evinrude 15032 14103..i put a used piston in this engine..an the number on the old one is 77258c1..it was from a 18 horse lol..an fit..so got me??..any more help would be great..don't want to bug you too much..thanks again..😂

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@philiprawbon2359 No worries. The 15032 is an 18hp. That is a Fastwin. It is not possible (nearly impossible anyway) to swap powerheads from 10 to 18hp. The connection is much different between the two. Is there a hex bolt head in the back of the exhaust leg holding the lower unit on? If so, that is a 5-bolt gearcase and this motor was never a 10hp Sportwin. If it is somehow a 4-bolt, the 18 powerhead will eat its lunch.😉

[@xLiQUiDFUSiONx]

I boat a wood boat last week that has one of these on it. Also came w a 1960 merc 30hp

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Cool! The Merc 30 is definitely more motor than this 18hp, but these are pretty gutsy for a smallish motor and they run absolutely beautifully. The wiring in Mercurys of that era tends to be rotten often, but they're good motors too if you have the patience and funds to do everything they need. The OMC 18s are my favorite. Thanks for watching!

[@donparker8246]

Good running little motor. 😁👍

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Thank you and thanks for watching!

[@AEVandergriff]

I have a 1960 18, exact same model. Start and runs right. Pulls under load but I can’t ever get it up in the Rpm’s. I can only get about halfway up whether it’s under a load or not. Any suggestions

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

These are excellent motors. The first things I would ask / check out are making sure you are getting full advace on the magneto plate at full twist of the tiller grip. The other thing would be the prop. The 9x10P prop is pretty common and a good all-around prop for utility use on these motors. On a llight boat the 9.25x11P is good. 9x9 is sometimes beneficial if you're pushing a more heavily loaded boat. Too much prop and it will not turn enough RPMs to get into the rated HP range. These should run at around 4500 RPM at WOT. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

[@miketh2436]

That’s a good running motor!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Thank you. I am very pleased with how this one turned out. I'm looking forward to getting it on my Aerocraft P-12 for a run. Thanks for watching!

[@alexisramirez3063]

I have the same engine but a 10hp tho but when I shift it to forward and try to go mid throttle the shifter starts to rattle and I have no idea whats causing it it does move forward on slow speed but when I go higher again the shifter start to rattle they guy who I bought it from says it has news gears in the lower unit when I drain the fluid the fluid looks clean

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

It sounds like the lower unit is jumping out of gear. It may have had new gears in it, but it may also be possible the gear spacers were left out when it was assembled. The adjustment near the shift handle should only be for fine tuning to make sure neutral can be reached without shifting past neutral to reach it from both directions. If the gearcase was not assembled properly or if bearing parts are worn, they can start to jump out of gear. Once they start to do that, that hammering action of the clutch dog jumping in and out of the cogs under power will ruin the parts quickly.

[@alexisramirez3063]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 awesome thank you for your help!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@alexisramirez3063 You're welcome. I hope you are able tongetnit sorted out. That's a great little motor. Thanks for watching!

[@davemilster]

Could be a bad shift clutch not staying engaged

[@davemilster]

What is the parallel hose and fuel filter looking apparatus on your main fuel hose???

[@Regan845]

the gas tank he is for a older johnson evinrude two line tank he just caps the air line with a filter so stuff does not get in the tank he runs all his motors with one tank

[@travish6034]

I have the same motor that I went through it all and replaced some parts on it. I rebuild the carburetor and now I can't get it to idle without the choke on. Do you have any help on it.

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

If your motor will not idle without the choke on, the fuel flow through the metering circuits in the carburetor is being restricted. Either your needles are out of adjustment or you have a partial blockage. When you rebuilt the carburetor did you: 1) use a genuine OEM carburetor kit with a new float) 2) adjust your new float to sit parallel with the carburetor body when turned upside down? 3) thoroughly clean all the passages in the carburetor and check for flow with an aerosol carburetor cleaner? 4) remove and replace the packing washers under the gland nuts on both needles? 5) set the needles at their initial settings of ~1 turn open for high speed and ~1.5turns open for low speed from lightly seated position before the first start? 6) snug up the glad nuts to prevent air from leaking around the needles before running the engine? I have a video on my channel on dialing in these carburetors after a rebuild. It may help you with final adjustments. The link is below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaGkZ3WYpNmGhac Thanks for watching!

[@travish6034]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Before I did anything to it I watched your videos on it but I will go back through the carburetor and check things. Thanks for your help

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@travish6034 I hope between the checklist and the video, that helps. Good luck. They're great motors. I hope you get yours straightened out.

[@technician122]

I'm not sure if you know or not but you just recently passed a 1,000,000 views on KZbin

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Yes, I did see it when my view count cleared the 1M mark. Pretty amazing actually. I never really expected I'd reach 100k, much less 1M. Thanks for watching!

[@travish6034]

Great video I just got myself the same motor and have been going through it. What fuel ratio do you run in your old motors

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

These are great little fishing motors. The OMC 5.5s from '54-'60 use 16:1 (there are no rolling bearing in the powerhead so they need the oil). The 5.5.5s from '61-'63 use 24:1. The last 5.5 was built in '64. It and it's 6hp replacements all ran 50:1 mix. The 10hp and up motors were 24:1 starting in the early 1950s. The 10s can all be run on 24:1 as they are all the same internally until 1961 when they got needle bearing wristpins. Still a plain bearing center main and 50:1 is not reccomended in them. In 1964, the 10hp was "replaced" with the 9.5 which was a 50:1 fully jeweled powerhead. Thanks for watching and good luck with your little Evinrude!

[@philiprawbon2359]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 good to hear this..i test ran the 60 18 horse with 50:1..hope that was ok

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@philiprawbon2359 A test run should be fine. 24:1 is factory recomended, but they are full needle bearing motors, so an occasion al dose of 50:1 isn't likely to hurt them. They apparently put coated pistons in them once they changed to 50:1 but internally still the same as 1960 in 1964. I still recommend staying with the factory ratio, bit I'm sure you have done no damage.

[@philiprawbon2359]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 great..will do..it has the roller bearing rods an no bearings on the piston pin

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@philiprawbon2359 The 18s all had needles on both ends of the rods. The wristpins, crankpins, and main journals are all needle bearing in a 22c.i. powerhead from 1957- 1976. There weren't all the same needles over the years, but they all have needles everywhere.

[@Jimmyzb36]

Wow! It is ugly but it can sure carry the mail!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Yeah, this one isn't great in the looks department, but it is a sweet runner with lots of grunt. I love these 18s! Thanks for watching!

[@joeybunkerslgl15gbunker25]

I think those old moters are beautiful and awesome bunk auto n small eng isave all I can find dum asses are still junking them for nothing more than crack rock money makes me sick I will buy All none running outboards anyone will bring and sale me just to keep them out of scrap yard

[@CJ-yf8kz]

Great looking motor! Question: what year did OMC go to the "normal" fuel feed system? I read the older ones you need a special pressurized tank or something to run them. Could you run this one of a Merc tank with an inline bulb? thanks

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

Thank you! Johnson/Evinrude went to fuel pumps and single line tanks in 1960 on all remote tank motors 18hp and less. The Gale division actually made the switch a year earlier in 1959 on all their remote tank motors. J/E went to fuel pumps in '59 only on the 35hp and larger. If you used a fuel line with a Mercury fitting on the tank end and the OMC fitting on the motor end, this motor will running a Mercury single line tank. Thanks for watching!

[@CJ-yf8kz]

​@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks for the info. Possibly looking at a '59 Evinrude 18hp for sale. So if I interpreted what you wrote correctly. the 59 would NOT have a fuel pump on it, even though it looks almost identical to the '60. What other equipment would I need to run it in terms of tanks and lines? thanks!

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

@@CJ-yf8kz You are indeed correct. The 1959 Fastwin will not have a fuel pump and the very similar looking 1960 Fastwin will. You would either need a working pressure tank (which I prefer) or you have a couple of options to add a fuel pump and convert to a single line tank. By the time you convert and buy a new tank and line your cost may end up similar to that of finding a proper working pressure tank for the motor. Assuming you already have a single line Mercury tank, that could also be made to work with this motor if converted to single line.

[@CJ-yf8kz]

@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Good info! Thanks for clarifying that.

[@outlawflyer7868]

Have you ever worked on a wizard 6hp super twin or a vovlo penta 39 archimedes?

[@oldjohnnyrude8404]

No, I'm sorry. I have no experience with either of those motors.