1964 Peugeot PX10 Restoration - Worth It?

I recently bought a scruffy and neglected Peugeot PX10 and decided to restore it. Here is my video of my problems, challenges and satisfactions in the job of making it a great bike once more.

[@masonhancock5350]

Always wanted one. I ran a Gitane TdF as an SS for years. I love the Frenchies, but they are work. Love those cranks.

[@thevelocollective343]

Yes they are work but you can’t help but love them! Thanks for your feedback

[@mkrug1149]

I have removed cranks where the puller stripped the threads, took the chain rings off like you did, then you can use a pickle fork/ ball joint remover tool.

[@despeasland4837]

Thanks for sharing. You did a brilliant job. I love Peugeot bikes. I've got a Peugeot Laser mountain bike which is around 34 years old and I really enjoy riding it.

[@thevelocollective343]

Thank you, I appreciate the positive feedback. Glad to hear you're still riding your Peugeot!

[@user-do5hd7zb4x]

If you need help with the cog I have rebuilt a cyclo before. You can make a spring out of a guitar e string. The pawls are easy just clean them with kerosene. You place the pawls back in and the spring and pawls are.held closed or you can use dental floss to hold it together untill you push it back together sort of a screw motion, then re tract the floss and if all goes well then freewheel body wil axcept the pawls. Remember the brass shims for the freewheel. You can leave one out to make it tighter if need be. You may experience slipping in the freewheel so dont jump on the pedals she may be too far gone. You may have to remachine the pawls or.use newer pawls that have a grip. The bearings are stainless steel and you should have a white towel to catch them if they fall out. When i did mine i re used the old bearings and it worked satisfactorily. Were talking cyclo free wheel other brands may be similar but that is what came on my bike. Your frewheel may slip from time to time I dont promise miracles. But at least you can clean the freewheel guts and regreasr the bearing tracks. I would recomend a nlgi grade 1 white tithium grease and place the balls with tweezers.there like 3 32ds bearings, really tiny.pack eachrace withe all the bearings it will hold then subtract 1 bearing from each race. Hold the body of the freewheel with with the pawls closed use stringor floss or really sticky grease like boat trailer marine grease that may hold the bearings and pawls closed while you twist her back together. Once its back together I would suggest soaking it in brake cleaner to wash out the sticky grease so the pawls open up to catch the ratchet. Flush it out side cause brake cleaner stinks!. Its also a carcinogen. Use a coffee can and nitrile gloves and work the freewheel untill you are confident the grease is gone. If you dont get out all the grease the pawls will stay contracted and when you go to pedal you will spin out. So get out as much grease as you can. Then re oil with 30 wt motor oil or chainsaw bar and chain oil. Its tacky and will stay in place. The motor oil probably safer than bar and chain oil. There youve repacked your first freewheel! Or maybe youve done it before already. Hope this helps. You might have to replace the freewheel I remember mine slipped at inopportune times. At least you now know how to repack a freewheel of the cyclo variety. The newer ones slightly different design. Just dont stomp on your pedals after repacking your freewheel you might go over the bars. Remember these bicycles are now antiques and very frail and delicate. To reglue your sew ups try 3 m fast tack or weather strip adhesive. Thats what I use. It seems to hold well. Bye for now. Happy cycling!

[@thevelocollective343]

Thank you for the repair tip, I'll try it! It's great to get good info for these old bikes from people in the know. Cheers!

[@meadows408]

The fork looked like it was damaged. Good luck and thanks for the video.

[@thevelocollective343]

It was, good spot.

[@nãomedigafrivolidade]

these vintage speed bikes are so beauty

[@thevelocollective343]

Thanks!

[@nãomedigafrivolidade]

@@thevelocollective343 tchau

[@ivomols3262]

The only way to take the cranks and pedals off is by heating, take a gas burner than it will always release.

[@thevelocollective343]

Yes, and it's not worth it for me at the moment. Cheers!

[@josejn2007]

You have done a great restoration job. The chrome was in good condition. The paint, no. I would have painted the frame and built a fixie or urban bike with new components.

[@thevelocollective343]

Thank you, I appreciate your positive comment!

[@mkrug1149]

Nice job, you have your seat clamp on backwards, the bolt always goes to the rear.

[@thevelocollective343]

Yes, fixed that after seeing it right after the video, we all make mistakes, right?

[@davidgutierrez6312]

Pretty❤good job, we share hobby😊

[@thevelocollective343]

Thank you! 😊

[@andreyo1518]

great video

[@thevelocollective343]

Thanks!

[@MrMagnussoren]

salut , pour demonter des pedales, il ne faut pas laisser le velo sur le pied d'atelier, tu dois le mettre au sol ( la roue arriere est ainsi bloqué) , utilise du dégrippant ( wd 40 ) et un bras de levier ( tu mets ton manche de clef dans un tube. pareil pour demonter ton pédalier : pas de pied d'atelier : tu poses ton cadre a plat au sol

[@thevelocollective343]

Oui, j'ai essayé ça! Merci

[@jamesnarlesky4622]

​@@thevelocollective343Let the penetrating oil do it's job. It may take more than a week. It would be shame to leave the pedals and bottom bracket untouched. Don't give up! Cheers.

[@user-do5hd7zb4x]

You place your frame flat on the ground and then what?

[@ChrisWilkinson-kl2nb]

Another vintage steel bike saved with original paint and decals, result !!!

[@thevelocollective343]

yes, it was really worth it! Thanks for the nice comment!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Nice job

[@thevelocollective343]

Thank you!

[@user-do5hd7zb4x]

Easy on the rims man wenol or simichrome l. Do er up proud!

[@thevelocollective343]

Thanks for the info!

[@BleakVision]

The gunk on the top tube may just be oil in the air mixed with dust. Typical for a kitchen or a garage.

[@thevelocollective343]

Good point, thanks for the info!

[@user-do5hd7zb4x]

One last thing! The lore of the px 10 started when the coal miners yearned for the px10 E so the French coal miners would work in the coal mines of France for an entire year in order to afford a Peugeot Px 10 E racing bicycle. Then I guess, they would take time off for a while and go racing! Those poor souls such a sacrifice! I was a very lucky young boy my dad bought me my first Px10 E. The other lore is supposedly the Peugeot Px10 E is Inoxidable. In other words it wont rust. Does that make it stainless steel? I dont know. I believe the story goes that for the first 2 years the frame was guaranteed not to rust. Whether that is a fact I dont know. All I know is the Peugeot Px10 e was a very comfortable bicycle to ride providing the wheels were built correctly. There was massive tension built into the wheelsets that is why the ride was so supple and you felt like you were soaring along. The tires were the secknd half of the equassion. Latex innertubes have a lesser coefficient of friction than butyl tubes. So the tight wheel combined with the rebound of latex sewups in effect created a giant spring that glided over cobblestones in europe and vaulted over small dips in the road in america. But unless you know sreally good wheel builder who can pull up the old spokes provided they havent seized or install new double buttef spokes your basicaly riding a de tuned rellic. I have built several wheels myself and none comming close to the correct tension nessasary to incurre the elasticity necessary to get back the old ride characteristics. Part of this is how much I weigh. When I was 12 or 13 I weighed much less than I do now. So my pipe dream of getting back the old ride may be just that, a pipe dream. Unless I can find someone who can reuse my old spokes and pull up my old wheels I may never get. The zingfullness out of my old px10. Thanks forlistening!

[@thevelocollective343]

Thanks for your interesting feedback, interesting stuff. Cheers!

[@user-do5hd7zb4x]

When you ride that thing please keep your toeclip straps loose all the time while you get used to the bicycle. Particularly in pea gravel on tight shouldered roads if a car startles you you need to be able to remove your feet quickly otherwise you could goe over like a domino. I say this not to scare you but sincerely warn you that toe straps are a form of cleat and can ruin your knees. At one point I had my dads old dancing shoes and took them to a cobbler to attach the lead slugs to the bottoms of the souls. These were very similar to cycling shoes so i used them. I was lucky I had sense to ride them slacked most of the time. On one occasion I was on the shoulder of the paved road and lost my balance. I was trapped I almost went over. Then i boght shimano cycling shoes and dura ace clipless pedals. I could feel the awkwardness then my siatic flared up so I set my bindings looser. Then as I was comminh over the crest of a small hill near some tennis courts my binding released prematurely and I went over the bars. These clipless pedals are also a form of cleat. My knee doctor told me to avoid cleats so now my px only has lyotard quill pedals without clips or straps. I feel much safer. There are half clips which dont use straps and you put your toe under it and pull up very gently on the up stroke. These are ok i guess but there is still the liklyhood of catching the clip on a curb or not being able to back out fast enough. I think if i get back into cycling i may buy or make some of these. At least in the city you can back out quicker providing your shoes are without cleats.

[@thevelocollective343]

Thanks for the comment, I always keep my toe clips loose after many falls in the past. Safe riding!

[@jayblankenbiller5385]

Dude , banging on a pedal wrench with a rubber hammer? Really thats the best you've got? No wonder you damaged the flats. Sure you used the proper crank puller? Or were the threads damaged by using the wrong puller with the wrong threads. Soak those parts with penetrant before even attempting their removal😢

[@thevelocollective343]

The mallet was the third method after trying to use my hand and with a pipe extension. It has worked for me many times before, but in this case there was no way penetrant was going to be the key to getting this thing off.