1964 TR4 - Part 20 - Radiator Install and Diff servicing

[@johnhartley3596]

Im loving the B&W ragtime introductions.

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Elin, another great, instructive video; thank you! That trick you used to remove the broken u-joint circlip is golden! I would have resorted to throwing the u-joint across the shop at that point out of frustration. lol

[@oboeviolin]

Since so many of us enjoy Elin's great videos how about we show our appreciation by crowd-funding some new circlip pliers for him....

[@philtucker1224]

Elin needs to get a grip 😂

[@nielspeterulriksfeldt7689]

Thank you for all the videos Elin. I simply love them. all the best / NP from Denmark

[@nigelbarton8350]

Excellent video. I share your frustration with new parts not fitting right without modification. I bought a new heater valve for my MGB GT rebuild and it leaked where it bolts to the head. Took it off and checked with a straight edge and the mounting flange was like a banana. Ground it flat on my surface plate and all good- but I shouldn’t have had to waste time doing it!

[@dude36]

Engine bay looking great! And nice work on the u joints and the custom drain plug. NPT threads are their own thing….every trade has its quirks! Looking good all around.

[@rossilake218]

Always teplace the U-joints when you have the prop-shaft out. U-joints are not expensive. I use Coppergraf Anti-seize on all bolts. I use a copper or brass hammer to Whack caps outward. Easiest way i have found. Use lube.

[@jamessimmons8352]

I'm just amazed that there are so many replacement parts available for these old cars!

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

I'm just amazed that Elin didn't make a new fan blade to replace the broken one from the car ! Maybe in a future video ?

[@philtucker1224]

I think they are new ones James.

[@BruceBoschek]

Another fantastically informative video. Thanks, Elin! You are providing the Triumph world with an invaluable resource.

[@irfchawkeye9895]

Probably a good idea to put anti-seize compound on any of those NPT plugs since they are 2 different metals and over time there will be galvanic corrosion and they'll seize in place almost like they're welded :) Also nice work on the overflow!

[@rossilake218]

I use Coppergraf anti-seize on all threads.

[@barry6274]

That was really interesting. Looks like a great job in the engine bay and figuring out the radiator, etc. Also interesting work on the u joints. Thanks again!

[@hollywoodd3191]

Nice trick on that grommet. I'm getting ready to do the same thing with a Wizard radiator.

[@iceman9678]

Nice grommet and hose trick. *saved*

[@carltonbanks1693]

Lots of great info tks. We are changing the fan bushings and it helped a lot

[@freemanjackmsiradio]

I worked as a prop reconditioner for a few years, its not your circlip pliers, although good ones are much much better for this job, there is always a running endplay in a UJ, if you hammer one cup into the yoke resting the outside of the other side of the yoke on a solid surface, you will drive the bearing cup away from the c-clip, easing the pressure forcing it against its groove. If one side wont shift, the other usually will.

[@RustyBeauties]

Thanks! Makes sense!

[@freemanjackmsiradio]

@@RustyBeauties If they are really determined, doing the same but maintaining pressure with a vise or press on one cup often overcomes the outward force of the cup in a tight bull yoke. Loving the tr4 series, got a soft spot for em after swapping a real axle on a 4a in the 80's. Had the rare pleasure of servicing a genuine tr8 once too, that alloy v8 certainly made a very different beast of the '7 bodyshell.

[@blangtr6]

When I drill / tap the diff for a new plug, I dip the drills and taps into wheel bearing grease or beeswax before and during the drilling / tapping. The metal chips stick to the grease and you have way less chance of getting chips in the diff (or transmission or oil pan). Makes "cleanup" a breeze.

[@kjeldlarsen912]

Thank you Elin

[@bshnabel]

Excellent video, thanks

[@luckyeddy5098]

Awesome video! I am about 2 weeks away from the first start in 28 years off the road with my '63 TR4, going to try and beat you to it! ( Don't forget to fit the heater return pipe from the water pump to the back of the engine, I see yours is not there yet!) Best of luck.

[@RustyBeauties]

Well, I am behind with editing. I am further ahead than what is on KZbin. I may or may not have attempted the first start yesterday :) we will see in the next video. I deleted the return pipe as the owner never had heat in the last 30 years. The heater was not hooked up when the car came and the owner doesn’t want me to deal with that. The pipe was rotten and patched too, so instead of repairing or replacing it for no reason I just plugged the holes on the pump and the head.

[@randycollett1746]

When tapping a hole like that you can apply lots of grease on the tap , which will catch all the chips.

[@RustyBeauties]

So many great tips in the comments of this video! Thank you!

[@alexanderduncan4302]

If you use a hammer & a drift on the u j cap it will relieve the pressure on the circlip making it easier to remove, then you use the same method on the other side. Also, tap the yokes sharply with a hammer after assembly & it will relieve the internal stresses in the u j caps & let it move freely. Regards, Sandy 🔧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@RustyBeauties]

Makes sense, thank you for the tips!

[@rossilake218]

I was gona suggest whaching the assembled knuckles outward to relieve bind on the new U-joints. I have been workkng on these cars for 45 years. I own a Tr6. Hell! Nascar guys have one in their flock.

[@JB_WI_Triumph]

When I put my Al rad in and electric fan in, I trashed the mechanical fan. Maybe if you keep it, the electric will run a bit less though. Mine only runs if I am at a light for a minute or more and it's hot out. When you struggle to get the clips off the U-Joints, first pound/press the U-Joint to one side and take out that clip, then drive it back and take out the opposite clip. I found this to help tremendously, and also during assembly (like you did). Once the new U-Joint is in, you might notice it is a bit stiff to move. I had this problem and read about it for a while. You smack the casting around the caps with a hammer, and it loosens right up. I didn't believe it would work, but it did. The caps are just pushed together a bit too tightly and they release just enough when you give the casting a smack. This little bit of movement is why you can push the caps together and make it easier to be the clips clips out.

[@kendurham2493]

I was taught to take a punch and hit between the caps on the yoke where they cross at the four locations to relieve the pressure on the u joint after installation. Not sure if it works but I always do it.

[@Andy-vo6zk]

My TR6 overflow bottle and cap is as loose as yours Elin but now I have the fix! Thanks😊

[@Patrick-Inc]

Great videos I've learned so much that I've never knew before. Can't wait until I hear it start.

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Elin, brave man drilling through the diff casing from under the car. You did well not to damage anything on the inside. In theory the NPT threads need a seallant to make them seal, the NPTF thread known as dry seal do not, that is at least what the specs say!! I'm sure what you have done will be fine. The engine bay looks superb!! Good luck from Spain!!

[@RustyBeauties]

I sued a little teflon or plumbing tape as they call it here on the threads. It haven’t leaked so far so we will see.

[@kennolan1219]

When I get a stuck with the second circlip I tap its cup down. This can take pressure away from the clip and is then easier to remove. Good video.

[@RigelStudiosLasVegas]

THANK YOU for the videos! Again, learned more new tricks!

[@williamlucas8793]

A tip that has worked for me on the circlips is to tap them lightly with a socket prior to using the circlip pliers. This tapping breaks the bond that has formed between the clip and the journal.

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Yes knock the spider down away from the circlip to give a bit of clearance. Then flip it over and do the same the other way... I think the heat and stress from the failed bearing helped to bond everything in place.

[@alanm.4298]

I agree! And once the first circlip is out, you can press the opposite side a little to make the 2nd circlip a lot easier to remove. I would not drill a yoke like that. I would be afraid it might crack from that point. It's probably okay on a gently driven car. But I'm not gentle!

[@TR4Ajim]

I replaced the front seal on my solid axle TR4A, with the axle in the car. Unfortunately it’s a much tougher job to access the seal because of the shape of the TR4A frame.

[@jjmac3561]

It helps if you give the ends of the old joints a good soaking with a release oil and a good thump with a hammer before you try to remove the circlips,. You can even use the press instead of a hammer just to unseat them from the bearings. The joints often had a plug in the greasecond hole that you were expected to remove, then fit the long grease nipple, gease them then remove and replace with the plug. It's meant to prevent the grease nipple getting damaged. It could also have an effect on the balance of the shaft.

[@jjmac3561]

You can also put the magnet inside the difference casing where the hole is going to come through. Or use a piece of tape with a lump of grease under it to catch the metal.

[@pda49184]

Don't you just love replacing U-J's .. I always compared that job with taking a 'difficult' child into a restaurant ... Sometimes it goes well, sometimes it doesn't 😅.. You've got that engine bay looking, (as we say in the UK), like the dogs bollocks. Looking forward to the start-up..

[@jamesworsham125]

Also found that if you can lay down some of the needle bearings between the cap and the end of the cross, it would give you the last few m/m it takes to push the cap out.

[@RustyBeauties]

Another great tip! Thanks

[@davidwarr8600]

Another excellent and informative video. I like the few tricks you use. I have changed many u joints and from time to time a needle bearing has come loose when trying to put the end caps on. There isn’t much grease in the cap to hold the needles in place so I always put a good dollop of grease in there so that nothing falls out of place. I have to ask though. Why are you going with two fans?

[@andrepienaar6459]

Hi Elin, how do you connect the power fan to a sender unit in the block? When I was a pupil telecom tech in 1970 I wanted to install a fan on my Triumph 2000 mk1, because it gets very hot in South Africa and the car didn't take kindly to it and boiled in traffic. I thought an extra hole would have to be made in the radiator for a sender unit, so I never got around to it. Thanks for your very interesting videos!

[@TSLexor]

For fan mounting I think the flat washers go over the rubber bushings to apply even pressure on compression. Next the locking plate has slots orientated so with bolts installed the fan can't turn counterclockwise. Looks like you got it right. Is the fan installed right without having curved edge leading on clockwise rotation? Also do the old fans need any balancing?

[@Bill_9797]

Am only at start of video but I think it’s back to front - curve should be leading edge for safety (??)

[@philtucker1224]

Elin the pitch on the Triumph fan looks almost worse than useless! (No wonder they’ve rammed it up so close to the rad! 🤣😂( I think you are very wise to fit the additional thermostatic fan 👍)

[@garyfraser8584]

If you don't like the way your radiator shroud fits against the radiator try using a strip of Velcro along the front of the radiator I used the stuff for a lot of things. they kept my number plate on my race car at 150 miles an hour. The heat might be an issue though with the sticky side that attaches to the rad.

[@philtucker1224]

Hi Gary, if your thinking of doing 150mph again, I would probably take your registration plates off before the cops clock you.

[@garyfraser8584]

@@philtucker1224 read it again i said racecar which was never on the street. It was a 23t altered on alky.

[@philtucker1224]

@@garyfraser8584 oh I’m sorry Gary! (Over here in the U.K. we use the term “number plate” for a road car’s registration number) actually I was doing a poor job of making an English joke so apologies to you buddy! ( did you win any of your races and what type of race car were you driving?) 🙏🇬🇧

[@garyfraser8584]

@@philtucker1224 it was a 1923 model t altered running on alcohol for fuel with an 8l (452 cubic inch dodge engine. Drag racing.

[@oboeviolin]

my '64 TR 4 27,000 series, built in November of 1964, does not have the extension on the orignal radiator. Maybe the earlier '64s had the type you chose.

[@jamessimmons8352]

It was a long time ago, but I recall my 64 didn't have one either.

[@philtucker1224]

I think Elin said it was the 2s 3s and very early 4s only..

[@alanm.4298]

My TR4 is registered 1964, but was built and shipped in '62. It was common back then for cars to be registered the year of sale, ignoring the actual year built. The VIN is a better reference for change points. Mine is CT17602L and it has the long neck radiator. Also has no overflow bottle. Just an overflow hose. The long neck was supposed to serve as a coolant expansion tank.

[@RustyBeauties]

I don't know if that was the original rad for the car, but it came with a long neck so that is what I replaced it with.

[@Vespanation]

That little oil pump is cool. Where did you get that?t

[@RustyBeauties]

Amazon

[@Michaelsiegmund-ff3kp]

Where did you buy the radiator?

[@luisangelsotojimenez1257]

The radiador bottle goes below the base were you make holes to radiador right side .

[@alanm.4298]

Didn't one or two of the Le Mans TR4s have to retire due to a broken fan blade through the radiator? Or maybe it was one of the TR3s. Either way, what's worse is that they probably didn't need the fan at race speeds. It might explain the convoluted mounting they used... Amd the later change to a plastic fan with more blades at a more acute angle.

[@jamesworsham125]

I used to give the old cap a wack toward the center of the joint. This would most always give enough room to let me remove circlip. 😉

[@RustyBeauties]

Great tip! Thank you!

[@andrewdonald4046]

Why two,gaskets on the diff?

[@johnmckenna8989]

The fan on my TR3A calls for a "balance piece".....Was that not used on the TR4 ? .....The fan you are installing seems to be a TR3 design, with rounded fins.....

[@gordonblank6845]

First again! Thanks Elin, you’re the best 👍🏻🎅

[@philtucker1224]

16th ! My favourite position, this has made my day! 😂🤣😂🤣

[@alanm.4298]

What's up with the single, "erect" horn? I've always seen dual (high/low) horns that lay flat in their brackets.

[@RustyBeauties]

That is how the car came. As long as it works I don't see an issue with it. This car is not meant to be original, but a reliable weekend driver.

[@alanm.4298]

@@RustyBeauties Thanks. It just seems an odd way of installing the horn. I thought maybe it was loosened and tipped upward for clearance while removing and then reinstalling the engine, radiator, etc.

[@philtucker1224]

Elin I’m not keen that style of diff drain plug, I would be happier using a drain plug with a shoulder and a fibre washer.

[@johnsharonwhitaker9242]

Our early 2 (TS394LO) has the early diff with a drain plug like the one Elin installed. I wonder if Triumph quit installing them because they could get knocked off going over rocks in a rally. I used to watch the Shell 4000 (Vancouver to Montreal) in the 1960s at the special stage near Saskatoon and there were TR4s in it, as well as in many others.

[@billgoin4004]

You should have put a 250 fan on then no need for the Electric fan.

[@philtucker1224]

That 4 blade fan looked worse than useless…

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

The electric fan also blocks a lot of airflow to the top of the radiator so not a 100% good idea... the car apparently worked fine for 60 years with positive earth, dynamo / generator, crank fan, no diff drain plug and 1 gasket on the diff cover fitted in the factory with no gasket maker ! But a lot of it was definitely very worn and tired !

[@philtucker1224]

Bill for the uninitiated why is the 250 fan an improvement please? 🤔

[@billgoin4004]

@@philtucker1224 It has 7 blades and weights less than half the 4 blade does, and moves at least twice the air, also it's closer to the Rad.

[@philtucker1224]

@@billgoin4004 hi Bill, (of course rad fans are for when the car is sitting stationary) and the 250 fan design sounds much more effective in that respect. However, Elin (and Dave) will know that so perhaps there is a stronger reason why Elin needs to show that it has kept the original design. (Obviously I do agree with you from the technical standpoint). Cheers buddy.

[@garysweetland32]

Be careful pusher fans can obscure the core and actually make the engine run hotter. 😬 Don't ask me how I know....... 🤕