1965 Corvair Removing Windshield & Fixing Pin-Holed Floors

Work continues on the '65 500.
We will remove the windshield and back glass, then turn our attention to the rear floor pans.
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[@markclark8367]

I don’t watch a lot of TV so this is my entertainment. Thank you!

[@ACF6180T]

That can be a good thing. I know it makes me more productive.😉

[@tombob671]

Your floor repairs make perfect sense. Great job you are bringing a corvair back to useable car not restoring a 100 point concours Bugatti. Ignore the naysayers

[@ACF6180T]

Hear! Hear!!!!

[@davidpayton8336]

Thank you sir for taking the time to make this video. I’m really needing to replace my windshield on my 65, it’s extremely pitted from years of living in the desert and suffering from sand storms. 🤷‍♂️

[@sinistersilverado965]

Love Corvair content

[@pierrevoyemant7137]

Stark terror gripped me watching that trim and glass removal but you came out golden…that’s going to be a nice Corvair!

[@richardzirk6935]

I seriously doubt VGG would ever attempt to fix up a Corvair, let alone attempt to make one roadworthy to drive a distance back home. Great job!

[@Bill-xc8le]

Your approach to the floor would be mine as well jay

[@anthonyvisnesky6656]

I have used the USC product for many, many, years . You are correct that it was initially marketed as a " lead substitute" . In, fact it was marketed for many years as " Aluma- lead". I agree completely with your approach. I'm currently restoring a ' 60 700 sedan. The floors are so good in to that I'm going to use 6 ounce E cloth. Bonded with POR to repair a few " holes the size of a penny " in its floor. It is otherwise completely solid. I will not need to replace any of the pan sections. Keep up the great work. BTW. I really like your bible discussions.

[@pierrevoyemant7137]

Hooray for early model sedans!👍

[@ronaldfarmer1208]

Job well done

[@kevinpfaff2301]

Great job on the floor! I am going to do that next time myself. Great project.

[@ACF6180T]

I like the way your doing your Corvair; Or as they say it will work. Your right about the windshield area; I thought it was going to be worse than it was. Everything your doing is going to make this a pretty solid ride. I'm glad to tag along it reminds me of some the Corvairs I've done. That I still have. Take care.

[@robertcoulthard2746]

Mr The Jayhawker,I have never seen that product before,it sounds good,as plastic filler absorbs moisture,I like your choice makes sense, can,t wait for your next video regards Rob

[@paulreft7133]

That repair makes perfect sense, those floorboards are way too nice to replace, how many guys would've sprayed under coating on them and covered them up? Yikes, I know! 😯 You'll have a sweet car there when its all finished, nice job, thanks for sharing! God bless!

[@joshuacampbell9990]

For my own junk, your repair is similar to what I would do. For a customers car, I wouldn’t hush until they let me replace the floors. Mainly out of reputations sake. Normally for tiny pinholes I’ll put tape on the backside and paint them shut with either an oil base paint or a rust canceling product (I like Chassis Saver). For larger pinholes I like to torture myself by welding them up. Then like you said I like to use some type of undercoat on my floors. I’ve only finished a few vehicles with slick floors but they were show rides that are trailer queens that in my mind suck lol. My only concern with using any type of filler is in the future it ‘could’ pop up. Probably 20-30 years later but I’m paranoid. Regardless good job slowing it down and it’ll probably last forever because these old cars once fixed up normally live a pretty charmed life.

[@danieldyke1074]

Will help using shop vac as you go!

[@dannybradley9346]

I really appreciate your showing all these details, including the AllMetal (which I had not heard of). I chuckled at your reference to ViceGripGarage. And, yes, I did just watch a VGG video, but Derek does not get deep enough into restoration.

[@rrnonya5472]

tool instructions.."once you figure it out, you will figure it out .. the end - manufacturer"

[@henrychinaski5223]

Looks like that's going to be a good fix. I didn't know about that product back in '93-'95 when my son and I were building his '59 Bel Air. I used fiberglass for the entire floor pan. I put in two patch panels in the front and glassed over them, too. He still has the car and my little granddaughter says she wants it to be her everyday driver. Good thing about that car is that it has been garage kept since we finished it nearly 30 years ago...geez...has it been that long?

[@TheJayhawker]

lol, time can be a scary thing! I bought my first car, a '64 Impala, from my brother back about the same time. My dad knocked out a lot of the typical rot and "rebuilt" them with fiberglass. They held on and looked great for quite a few years of daily driving.

[@Friedbrain11]

On both windows, there should be very small drain holes in the lower corners. Probably rusted shut. I was expecting you to break the front windshield but you did it so very well. Gratz on accomplishing the removal:) This is one lucky 'Vair to have you working it! I would use POR15 but that spray works also... so no biggie. The front floors need to be replaced though.

[@TheJayhawker]

Yep, that's already in the works, thanks for watching!

[@randallsanders7446]

Good job on the floor. I agree that there are different strokes for different folks; so you do what you think is best for your stuff. That floor should be just fine for a long time. I'll be watching for your front floor patches. What's your take on lap welding patches, as opposed to butt welding, to floor areas about 4"x8"? Thanks again for sharing your work.

[@TheJayhawker]

I always butt weld patches just for the sake of not having layers that rust can grow in between. Having said that, vehicles are already built with a multitude of pinch welds which are just that. If I was to do lap weld patches I would probably punch holes around the patch and then coat each overlapping surface with weld-thru primer or Zinc-It. Then plug weld the patch on so it would be just like a pinch weld. The back side if accessible could even be seam sealed or some other good sealer used to keep moisture from getting in between the layers from the outside. Butt welds are a lot more time and work consuming and not always necessary, and it is easy to get the metal very thin at the weld. But they are also much better looking when finished.

[@robertsimmons1716]

I’d like to follow your lead abs do my floors the same. Can you tell me again what that product is?

[@TheJayhawker]

Just look for USC or US Chemical "All Metal"

[@sirmister4411]

Ok I don’t like that stuff cause you said it as aluminum in it and aluminum and steel don’t work well together. I used a liquid steel version for my old floors a couple of years a go and so far so good but good idea good luck.

[@TheJayhawker]

I have no doubt in my mind that this will be a lasting fix for these floors. I would, however be interested to know more about what you use. This was originally developed as an alternative to lead filler as I said. And considering that it will never even see moisture, unless I spill my Dr. Pepper on the floor, I think it'll be there till the cows come home. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@JohnnyL6975]

I know you are trying. But you just didn’t do this right for the floor. I know the usc stuff But it’s your car.. you didn’t need to do that . A repair to it then use a rust converter.. I hope you can do the right thing. So to speak..

[@TheJayhawker]

It'll all be ok, thanks for watching.