1966 Mustang Restoration Pt. 35 Custom Subframe Connectors Pt. 2

[@HalfMoonCustoms]

Good video! Thanks for sharing. I may just do the same thing on my 66 Fastback. I agree with the other comment to add some fishplates to the weld joints. I like using flat washers over joints then welded the perimeter with a plug weld filling the center of the washer. Your install is plenty strong though. Good work!

[@3rdstallgarage]

Good suggestion. It's hard to know what's overkill and what's wise to do. Either way it's at least stronger than it was before. Thanks for watching.

[@crazywickedcustoms7272]

Good video

[@3rdstallgarage]

Thanks

[@rayzorsharp2331]

that dam cricket in the video had me tripping in my house. 🤣🤣🤣

[@3rdstallgarage]

Ha! I don't even hear him anymore...

[@InTheAbysswithRick]

They look great, nice job.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@trailerparkcryptoking5213]

I think you did a great job and it should be really strong! I need to do this to a 1962 Falcon Ranchero that I want to add some horsepower to. In high school circa 1981-82 I had one for a drag car running 11.80’s with no subframe connectors and it was starting to pull the front wheels up 1”-2” and we worried about the unibody flexing.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Thanks. It's probably overkill for the engine I'm putting in it...but nows the time to do it right and who knows what engine I'll drop in it later!

[@lancelot1953]

Hi Doug, former Ford engineering intern from 1970s here (yes, that old). I still have my first car (1970 Mustang convertible) which I need to "preserve" for the grand-children. You are giving me great ideas. I am impressed by your attention to details, how you "blended-in" your custom sub-frame, and your workmanship. May God bless your family (and your project), Ciao, L

[@3rdstallgarage]

Wow! That's so awesome that you still have your first car. If you want, send me a picture of it to [e-mail]. I'd love to see it. I hope you grandchildren want it!

[@68mustangrestoration34]

great job on the welding and the connectors fit really well. I agree that the car on its side should not deflect or change the "flatness" of the car considering there is no load on it. I believe that welding them in before setting the gaps is the way to go.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Thanks!

[@jeffarchibald3837]

I did the same thing but with 1.5'' .90 round cm tube welded inside the 2'' square.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Nice.

[@wadehoran2270]

Love it…nice work.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Thanks!

[@wookidtheoneandonly6230]

Definitely try using D 4.5-5. I have the same machine and never need it up that high on the wire speed. Also make sure polarity is correct

[@3rdstallgarage]

I will experiment with differnet wirespeeds. Thanks.

[@joshmccombs5090]

The only thing I would have done is make small plates to weld over your seams to guarantee the welds don’t break or crack Kind of like they do in the Detroit speed mini tub kit It looks great the way you built it and fit it That’s the way I would do it because I overkill everything Also I learned a new trick watching this video To drill and tap the bottom panel and use a bolt to draw it together I’ll definitely be doing that when I’m in the same type situation Keep on building I enjoy watching your videos

[@3rdstallgarage]

Good point. The joints may be a weak point, but I think a good strong weld in a nice sized v-groove with good penetration should be nice and strong. But a backer plate wouldn't hurt. Thanks for watching. I'm glad you enjoy the videos.

[@mmike76]

never sand blast before welding, it impregnates the metal with contaminates.

[@3rdstallgarage]

Hmmm...That makes some sense. The car was sandblasted before I got it, so I had no choice. But you have to remove the paint before you can weld. Sometimes you have to sandblast to remove the paint. It seems like you are going to have impurities is old weathered formerly rusty steel no matter what you do. I guess I'm not seeing how sandblasting is going to make it much worse. It's easier welding sand blasted metal compared to rusty metal, I know that! Thanks for sharing the thought.

[@mmike76]

@@3rdstallgarage I'm in the process like you, I did it a little differently, bought a spare front frame rail and went to a metal shop and had them make me up 3/16 frame rails that just covered the originals and went through the floor and encapsulated the rear frame rail. Inboard from where the new mini tub position similar to Detroit speed. causal glance you wouldn't detect. Final pinch welds will be 5 1/2 inches so your method wouldn't of worked. Looks like you lost 2 to 3 inches of clearance. Watch at very helpful youtuber- "Sylvesters Customs" special on sandblasting and you will be very prudent in that method of paint removal. Not trying to be a smart ass just a student with similar hobbies.

[@ndenise3460]

Should have pulled th convertible seatpan then put in the brace and then reinstalled

[@3rdstallgarage]

Might have been a good way to go too. Thanks for sharing.

[@pfernandes8982]

Use windshield sealer glue too all the seams the water proof it like factory

[@3rdstallgarage]

I'm definitely planning on seam sealing everything. Good idea.

[@Bojangles1987]

I wouldn’t trust those welds your welds seem very cold and like your using not powerful enough welder

[@3rdstallgarage]

Well, I'm not a professional welder and don't claim to be. But I think I had pretty good penetration. Thanks for watching.