1969 Camaro FiTech EFI: First Impressions

So far the FiTech EFI has been working well. I have not had the cranking issue since I rerouted the RPM signal wire. I have about 700-800 miles on the system and all is well.
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[@flyermike2029]

Dude the question in your speech is wearing me out! Cool car thanks for the vid.

[@kbtube8125]

he needs to be reassured that you're still following him. I can't talk to young people anymore because of it.

[@chelkamino2486]

@@kbtube8125 I thought I was the only one hearing that? LOL So hard to tolerate.

[@rrz464]

Love to see all your content. Excited for more of the Camaro as I get closer and closer with mine. It is thanks to you that I know what weather stripping to get and that I will be going with the suede headliner as well. Keep it up!

[@rulehardgarage9740]

I love these comparisons. I've done a lot of tuning on different EFI platforms and I'm a big fan of EFI because of the a control you have

[@rulehardgarage9740]

(edit) although EFI is good I'm not a fan of wet flow manifold EFI like TBI but in this case on older cars and hotrods where it's an retro fit I think they are pretty good.

[@tyferguson564]

Are you on Facebook, I’ve definitely got some questions on Fitech efi

[@newanarchy5550]

so excited for this build!

[@ClassicOctane]

Me too! I have a pile of LS swap parts and a built 9” just waiting to be installed.

[@michaelyates4236]

I had all kinds of issues trying to get my FiTech to work/idle properly on my 454 Sprint. I had a fault code "RPM Noise" showing up on the monitor. After speaking with the tech I learned that my MSD HEI distributor was the likely culprit. I replaced it with a FAST distributor which is made with a noise filter specifically for EFI units. That change solved the problem right away. Don't know if this helps but this was my experience. Nice video!

[@astcomjakecw]

You could have just used ferro rings and moved the wires away from spark and distributor like it says in the directions... lol. Didnt need to spend more money on something you didnt need.

[@dan40754]

Could you consider a screened co-axial cable for the tacho signal. If you connect the outer of the screen to the negative of the car chassis and use the centre core wire with the tachometer signal on it it may help. You can get co-axial cable from an electronics store in metre/yard lengths. This may help with reducing the noise pick up from motors and the distributor and coil high voltage pulses.

[@zachrochau6907]

Thats a damn good sounding sbc!

[@DmenorDanilo]

I have a 1976 Caprice SBC and I really want to install an EFI like this

[@fhawkrusso6358]

what seats do you have in the car? I am looking to upgrade my stock seats.

[@HYDROGENTEK]

A buddies 69 Camaro with a ZZ4 motor was the second of 30 system I's installed. You can pull additional HP by doing several tuning after installation.

[@ShenRC]

I have a chevy crate ZZ4 in my camaro what did you do to your Fitech settings for the ZZ4 if it's a stock crate motor like mine?

[@HYDROGENTEK]

Go into the accel pump slow throttle inputs at the 20F, 65F and 170F start with 120 and fast accel the same degree setting, start with 130. The dTPS gain start with 124, then the dTPS Acc Max start with 145. This will give a good throttle response like a modern car. Also look at your AFR, this motor does not like lean condition, start with 13.8, if it runs good then go up to 14.0 as you get close to the stochiometric or 14.7:1 it will run sluggish, then start backing it out. At cruise it definitely likes the 13.8

[@ShenRC]

@@HYDROGENTEK Hi is this the stock Chevy ZZ4 crate motor? Also the higherAFR # is leaner? I get spikes up to 17+ AFR sometimes with mine and I was thinking of feeding it more fuel by the accel pump 170 setting. Thank you

[@chelkamino2486]

Enjoy that Fitech.......mine sucked (all Fitech quality issues). Left a bad taste in my mouth, can make a carb run and perform way better!!

[@ClassicOctane]

Car has an LS in it now. I wouldn’t buy another FiTech product.

[@satudave]

That was a cool vid man👍👍

[@armygreenfj3924]

How has it been after 3 years?

[@thehammer3742]

Not a lot of steering wheel play, my mustang needs some love like this car!!! My question is, is efi worth the switch over a proper turned car

[@thehammer3742]

Tuned carb*

[@2laneblacktop943]

Fine example of a early Camaro, do you think your problem may be related to low fuel pressure?, just thinking out loud here.

[@TheJake283618]

What size rim and tire and back spacing are you running? Do you have mini tubs?

[@ClassicOctane]

No mini tubs yet. Front = 18X8 BS 5.00" Tire 245/40/18 Rear= 18x10 BS 5.50" Tire 275/35/18

[@codyrobinson5561]

What brand of tire are those

[@firstvett69]

I believe all EFI systems will Idle Around 1200 for the First 20 Seconds or so and then Come down to normal Idle.

[@rosarawlins9471]

just subscribed, thanks for doing the review, I notice you have scroth racing harnesses are they anchored to a roll bar or the back seat bolts? trying to figure out what to do with mine for auto cross. Thanks

[@ClassicOctane]

They are connected to the rear seat bolts. I don't have a roll bar yet.

[@rogo2287]

Would like to know more about whether this EFI is meeting your expectations? What were you hoping to gain? Better throttle response? More horsepower? I would imagine your hoping for both. Maybe future video you can share more comments about cost vs. benefit going to EFI vs. Carb. I am considering upgrade to a direct port injection, i.e. Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 set up. Thanks for your videos.

[@ClassicOctane]

I will make sure to do a longer term review. So far cold starts are way better. The weather changes so much from day to day here in Texas getting a carb dialed in was a huge pain. I’m confident fuel economy will be better as well.

[@JimBronson]

A carb will almost always make a little more power on the high end, it's for overall drivability that people put EFI on. I would do it in a heartbeat if I still had my Chevelle, it would be nice to know that it would start easy in the 20s F, that alone would be worth it. I would have no problem giving up 10HP to make it drive like a modern car when it was cold.

[@Tschida2004]

How did you do with installing the relay for the pulse width modulation? Im following your video to a T with my 69 camaro.

[@kamchai702]

Have you solved the running very rich issue after a hot restart? I am having the same problem. Thanks for posting

[@Ordrock7]

Does FiTech have a way to see your setup either by a link to your blue tooth or from a SD card with the information ?

[@rudydog420]

Any chance you know the part number of that steering wheel? Or size? 14,15 in? Also looking to swapout my 350 turbo trans for a 4 or 5 stick, what do you have? is it stock trans? thanks in advance!

[@bigjoe4020]

Is there anything that can be done regarding that idle issue? Normally the revs should not drop to 500 or below when you take it out of gear and that would annoy me to a point of doing something about it. It could be a simple fix of adjusting the table if you have access to your map tables. Anyway, I usually only watch your bike stuff but I might peek into some of the cars stuff in the future, this was my first non bike related vid I watched. Happy New Year

[@ClassicOctane]

It's already a lot better after driving the car for a few hundred miles. There are a million settings you can mess with so I'm sure it could be adjusted manually as well. I really want to get into car and bike content but I know must of my subs are here for the bikes. Happy New Year!

[@PeterAndersons]

Thinking of using the same system on a 351C, thanks for the update.

[@jeremy71504]

With the FiTech it sounds like a fuel cut issue when coming off the accelerator.

[@rogo2287]

I need a new rear end set up in my 69. Its 10 bolt like yours. Please share who your Ford 9 inch person is if you find he does good work and product. Also why not go with a GM 12 bolt? Thats strong enough for 450 Ftlb. Torque. Thanks

[@ClassicOctane]

I went with Quick Performace. They had a really good Black Friday sale. I went with a 9" because I plan on running 700-800 HP with my turbo LS. I went with their billet input and nodular iron center section so it should be good for 1300+ HP. I also had them put 10/12 bolt flanges on the outside so I can run my current disc brake setup. I plan to drive the car like I stole it and didn't want to worry about the rear end.

[@w41duvernay]

9 inch? Keep it all Gm. You can't get a 12 bolt rear?

[@austinsproblems9310]

If I am ever to get any car with an old 350 SB, 440, ETC then I think I wanna get a FI kit for it, just curious about it.

[@mistreku]

that 16.4 AFR during start up, when theoretically mixture should lean more towards rich, is that all right? i know it's not the mean, but it did hit that figure and it seems a bit off imo.

[@ClassicOctane]

That was the first ever startup. It’s normally around 11.5-12 at idle now.

[@mistreku]

@@ClassicOctane ok, cool, that's more like it. just thought i'd ask, seemed weird.

[@charlieb308]

Vibration, U joint, out of balance drive shaft, transmission bushing?

[@ClassicOctane]

Believe it or not, it ended up being the water pump. The bearing was so bad it would shake the whole car under load. I could move the whole pulley about a 1/4 inch with my hand.

[@ThePaulv12]

Well mine is nothing but trouble. I can't get it to run. backfire through the throttle body, won't start, backfires through the exhaust, goes to 10.1 a/f bogs then cuts out, goes lean 19:1 then 10.1 bogs cuts out, screen goes white. Car has done 375 miles and I've had enough. Flattened 2x batteries trying to get it to start then backfire. Firing order, timing, comp all completely fine. ignition system brand new, leads brand new, plugs brand new, distributor brand new, intake brand new. no vacuum leaks. Fuel pump brand new, fuel filter brand new, air cleaners brand new. it just won't run or when it does it backfires so hard it blows the blanking off plugs of the vac ports on the Fitech. All it has is full throttle. That part works OK but nothing else. I've followed every adjustment for idle screw tried limiting the upper and lower a/f ratio values but it still goes super rich then super lean then backfires and cuts out, checked manifold vac - ALL IS ok. They have not responded to one of my many contacts. Car has been parked for months. I've never hated something so much in my entire life.

[@Hatcher426]

That sucks man, I would see if you could sell it and buy holley efi. Sniper for a setup like this is perfect, decent price and best processor on the market in my opinion.

[@Walkerlollol]

Fitech owners group in fb would probally help you alot more. I have the same unit.

[@sethnelson8698]

So are u leaving it like this or are u still gonna ls swap it someday

[@ClassicOctane]

Going to start the LS swap as soon as I get in my new garage(mid-April). Also, have a built 9" to go with it.

[@geoffreyjones2000]

She just wants her carby back :) happy new year ps. 800...kinda high peace

[@superduty4556]

Lol no it isn't

[@astcomjakecw]

Please tell me you didnt bolt that 4 point to the floor behind the seat... Do you realize how dangerous that is? They make cross members that bolt behind the seat at neck level for a reason. Never bolt your 4 points to the floor behind the seat, people. 45 degree belt angle minimum!

[@ClassicOctane]

I appreciate your concern but these Schroth harnesses are actually designed and DOT/SCCA approved to be mounted this way. They have built in anti-submarine straps to prevent the issues with lower mounting points.

[@iyizjewelsisley3821]

very nice my car wont crank don't know very good!