1972 XLCH Sportster

20170107191633
1972 XLCH Sportster #103 tune-up and clutch repair harley XL ironhead by tatro machine

[@Steven1Cicero]

My neighbors must think I'm crazy as I scream at my computer screen saying that's close enough quit screwing with it! As I watch this.

[@Tedowski]

Thanks for showing the whole process when setting the points. I do it the same way (the right way) and people think I'm nuts and wasting time. That is the proper way to adjust them if you want it to run right.

[@TatroMachine]

proof is in the putting. it started on the 1st kick. tatro

[@sportyhog69]

There is a much simpler method that I use. First centralise the points cam just get it so you have identical gaps on both lodes it doesn't matter in the gap is 0.010" or 0.040" once it's central with equal gaps on both lobes, then set the gap to 0.020" it's too easy usually takes me 5 mins max not the 1/2 hour it seemed to take you Tatro.

[@bootsmellor6198]

Good to see you using cardboard to clean soot off. I found that this was the trick to getting first kick starts every time!

[@charlesmalinoski6325]

What is that fancy tool you used on the cam lobe ? I need one to set my static timing on my 77 shovel.Where can I purchase one ? She's been setting 28yrs. Time to get her back on the road. Where she belongs.

[@marcroche9324]

I've had my 76' for 40 years and have never been able to (keep) the points gap equal ( front to back lobe). It always drifts a little over time. But she always runs great!

[@TatroMachine]

its a harley, you only have to be close on most things. tatro

[@nonserviam9673]

Only thing I do different is I always remove the air cleaner, it only takes a minute. Tatro is a master.

[@Orbacron]

Thanks for this vid Tatro! I'ma use this maintenance tip on a 74' xlh I'm about to acquire. Prob my only chance to get a real xlh 1000

[@talkingmeat]

When static timing a cone shovel, would you use that tool to fully advance the cam lobe as well?

[@TatroMachine]

you don't have to use that tool but you do need to fully advance the point cam inorder to set the timing correctly.

[@talkingmeat]

@@TatroMachine thank you!

[@rickwaldron4255]

On my 78 sporster my yrap door won't come off after removing the 4 boltes required why..is there any more bolts I dont know about I did what the Manuel said.does any.ine have a awnser

[@TatroMachine]

take the rightside sprocket off and give the mainshaft a good hit with a plasic hammer. if using a metal hammer, put a piece of metal over the mainshaft to protect it. the door should just pop off the dowel pins. you can then take it out by hand. why are you not watching my videos on this. tatro

[@nouseforaname4559]

The timing mark used was the advance mark?

[@Galaxieshop]

Tatro What's your opinion on getting a 1979 harley sportster ironhead? I think they were the first bike with electric ignition

[@TatroMachine]

no on the ignition but they are a good bike. they make good street trackers or cafe racers. tatro

[@Galaxieshop]

@@TatroMachine thanks

[@Galaxieshop]

@@TatroMachine oh no I meant it was the first year to start with electric ignition(so am told)

[@joshuazickler1355]

u can put electronic or points in it

[@Galaxieshop]

@@joshuazickler1355 yea I bought the same day I asked the question now its has electronic ignition already and best bike I've had lets goooooo ironhead 🤟🤟🤟🤟🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@adamjaramillo93]

How would you lessen air time gap on the rotor, could a lil be good?

[@SaddleTrampTV]

Okay, now I'm so confused. You set the point gap on the wide lobe and on the lobe 180 degrees from it. I was doing the same thing on my 76 ironhead this past weekend, but to no avail. Was difficult to start and didn't want to even try to run unless I retarded the timing plate fully back, but would die immediately if I didn't hold the throttle. So I tried it (setting the point gaps) on the other not-so-taller lobes (at least they looked like lobes to me) and it fired right up. Everyone I've seen sets their point gap to the same lobes as you have and are successful. Why is mine so different do you think??

[@TatroMachine]

are you advancing the point cam before you adjust the point plate? are you setting the timing on the line on the flywheel or the dot? you are bending the point cam to align it with the points. everything moves around so you have to move things the same way every time or you will be all over the place. do it correctly and it will start easily. if not, than you are screwed. tatro

[@SaddleTrampTV]

@@TatroMachine Yeah, I did all those things. I figured it out though. I was replacing my points and condensor and figured for good measure put in a new set of weights that came with a new points cam. It turned out that the new points cam wasn't machined the same as my original. The lobes were about 10 to maybe 15 degrees out in reference to the original cam. It was impossible for me to set my timing with that. Drag Specialties... I've always had good luck with them. Except this go-round.

[@TatroMachine]

that is why you have to set the timing after you change out the points. you also have to install the point cam correctly. if you are 180 out you are screwed. tatro

[@SaddleTrampTV]

@@TatroMachine Yeah it was in right. It only fits one way. They weren't 180 out. But just enough to keep me from setting my static timing. I put my original one back in and everything went perfect after that. Sometimes new parts just don't cut the mustard.

[@jsandidge1]

Hi Tatro. I've got an 81 Ironhead with a Compufire electronic ignition. Super E carb, Andrews PB+ cams, drag pipes, stock std size pistons. I get pinging with the advance timing set at the stock 40 degrees. Do you think I should alter the timing? Should I go with more or less advance and by how much?

[@joshuazickler1355]

run better gas lol

[@Dieselpwr]

I went off the wire diagram and ran my power to the condenser and if fried I’m not get any spark and I’m fried some shit what is going on where does the wire actually go to

[@TatroMachine]

the hot wire from the ignition switch goes to the coil. from here i do not know what ignition you are useing. on points, the ground side of the coil goes to the points and condensor. you also need to use non-resistor spark plugs and solid core plug wires, not suppression ones. set the points gap at .020-.022 and the spark plugs at .025-.028. also time it off the timming mark with the weights full advanaced and not at tdc. tatro

[@WegisWilChop]

Do you have any idea why I would lose power after replacing just the front intake valve guide on an 82 xlh1000? I think the machine shop I went to gave it about .0015-.002" clearance. I put it all together and it suddenly doesn't have the jake brake sound on decel and lost so much power. Basically maxes at 2k rpm under load. I wish I could stop by your shop and get an expert's opinion but i'm all the way up in bakersfield. Nothing has changed except for the guide, and re-cut valve seats on the front cylinder.

[@TatroMachine]

time to go back to basics. do a full tune-up. check the valve clearance. check the timing. do a compression test and see if all is good. check the intake manifold for leaks and adjust the carb as needed. if nothing else you should find something wrong. if not than i would say the valve job is not as good as you said it was. tatro

[@redneckStudios_thefam]

I have traded my 97 ford for a siezed and rusted 1975 ironhead sportster what would i need to check for after i get it unsiezed ?

[@redneckStudios_thefam]

It was siezed due to just sitting

[@TatroMachine]

everything. tatro

[@philiphorner31]

Check your bank account for 5 figures

[@ah-yp6vp]

how do I install the timing weights

[@TatroMachine]

the springs hold them on. watch one of the other tune-up videos. tatro

[@traceradcliffe5199]

Tatro Machine I got 1976 1000sportster I put new starter new solenoid drive it won't turn moter over what. Should i.do

[@davidsheppard1133]

Be careful saying metric while standing that close to a Harley! Remember don’t cross the streams in Ghostbusters same thing!!!😂😂😂

[@joshuazickler1355]

I'll be honest I've never checked both sides

[@lucasalmeida348]

not because the bolt is metric, actually the bolt is damed

[@VeritasEtAequitas]

Looks like a good case for a slightly bigger Torx and a hammer... followed by new fasteners

[@ariennelandry9207]

No editing necessarily.

[@ariennelandry9207]

Necessary...

[@enriquehuguethofstedde9051]

you don't recognice a torx do'nt put hands on my bike so long

[@TatroMachine]

i was just getting use to straight slots. whats up with all these newfangled devices. tatro