1974 F350-Radius arm & I-beam bushing replacement

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AJ’s Garage

AJ’s Garage

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This video is going to be on replacing the Radius arm bushings on the 1974 F350. Since we are there and will have the I-beams out we might as well replace those bushings as well. It can seem like a difficult task but it really is simple and something everyone can do in their garage.
Sourcing parts can be easy just do some research to make sure part numbers are correct. I went with MOOG bushings for both replacements. They have a great team that you are able to call and confirm fitment or they will help you find the right bushings. I wasn't able to order both from them directly but with a part number I just ordered it where it was available. Parts are getting harder and harder to come by during this pandemic!
Follow along as I replace the bushings and hopefully this helps so that your able to change out yours!
Moog part numbers(each bushing I had to order two, they did not come in a set).
1.Radius arm bushings-K8101
2.I-beam bushings-K8179(also referred to as axle pivot bushing)
Step by step.
1. Break loose all bolts while the weight of the truck is on the ground. It is a lot easier this way and safer. If you need to gain a little better access to the I-beam bolts you can jack up the truck slightly support it and then drop the suspension so it fully exposed the bolt head.
2. Once all bolts are loose jack the truck up and support it with jack stands(make sure it is safe before proceeding). If you choose to do both sides at the same time loosen lug nuts while truck is on the ground and then remove the wheels once its in the air and supported.
3. Remove I-beam bolts and castle nut that holds the radius arm in place. You will not be able to back out the I-beam bolt while the weight of the truck is on the ground make sure the suspension has no load. Before you can fully drop each side of the suspension you will need to compress the spring with the jack and then remove the top bracket that hold the spring in place at the spring perch. Along with the bottom bolt for the shock that secures it to the suspension.
4. As you drop each I-beam make sure you support it with some blocks or a stand, the rubber brake lines will have some room to extend but be careful not to put to much strain on them. You might need to use a pry bar to get the I-beams to drop along with pulling forward on the radius arm to get it out once the I-beam is down. Depending on the shape of your bushings if they are really far gone or non existent the radius arm will come out with ease. If they are decent its going to fight wanting to come out.
5. To get everything back in start with the radius arm bushings. They are the easiest, make sure to add a little grease to prevent any squeaking while driving. Push them back in with the new bushings just far enough to get the back washer on and castle nut then you can tighten it and that will completely seat the radius arm. Also make sure you replace your cotter pin.
6. With the radius arm back in place we can move on to the I-beam. With the F350 it was a complete bushing with outer sleeve. On my 70 F250 it was just a replacement polyurethane bushing that you can press it. Both were an easy process. On the F350 I made a relief cut in the outer sleeve and was able to deform it and it came right out(a lot easier with the bushing gone).
7. With the old I-beam bushing gone your ready to press in the new one. If you have a ball joint press you can use that to press in the new bushing if not you should be able to go rent one at your local hardware store.
8. Before you can put the I-beam back in you need to reinstall the spring and shock. Begin by jacking the spring back up slightly enough to where you can place it in the spring perch. Put the bracket back in place to keep the spring secure then you can jack it back up to start the reinstallation of the I-beam.
9. Reinstallation of the I-beam can take a bit. There really isn't one way to do it you just have to adjust it and move it around up/down left or right to get it to light up. Like I mentioned in the video I prefer to leave the jack under the spring on the side I'm working on so you can use it for adjustment. I found that adjusting the height or compressing the spring helps line up the I-beam to put the bolt in.
10. Now with the radius arm and I-beam back in you can put the wheels back on tighten the lug nuts, remove the jacks and carefully drop the truck! Torque the I-beam bolts with the truck on the ground. Now you've successfully replaced your I-beam & radius arm bushings!
#Ford #Dentside #Ibeams #Ibeambushings #radiusarmbushings

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