1979 Bally Star Trek Pinball Machine Repair - Fixing the boardset First

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[@areizman]

Love this video. I'm an old Bally engineer and I love seeing the next generation bringing these classics back to life.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks for all the great games, Allan :)

[@jgrenardHK]

Hi gents, any tips for me to get my star trek to boot up? It started to not boot up from time to time, but now it never works.

[@artransitmemories9640]

@@jgrenardHK On the MPU there is a green LED that should flicker and flash 7 times. What is yours doing? Does the MPU still have a battery attached?

[@jgrenardHK]

Thx. The battery has already been relocated off the board, and I've just put in fresh batteries. I had 4.7V on the terminals without batteries, so I presume it was soldered ok. The green LED is continuously on, not blinking nor flashing. Cheers

[@areizman]

@@jgrenardHK A locked on LED is usually toast for the MPU. But before throwing in the towel check the voltages being supplied by the power supply. Game needs a good 5v and 12 V to begin the boot up process.

[@markjackson1444]

Another great pinnie saved from the scrapheap. Outstanding start to bringing it back from the dead.

[@edptrs9040]

Clearly you brought back a pin being used for parts, thanks! Also great that we have a growing hobby so people make replacement boards!

[@LyonsArcade]

Wait till you see the ones we're 'saving' now, LOL

[@mitch19636]

A blast from the past!

[@LyonsArcade]

We've got another one in we're working on now....

[@matt20132]

Just bought a Star Trek ! Thank you for the videos- they will be helpful.

[@melanatedprose9134]

Since this video is part of watching my first pinball repair video series, the boardset was more complicated looking than I expected. I can see how the components in this were the precursor to arcade games.

[@LyonsArcade]

Yeah they had a lot going on in some of these! They're all kind of modules though, so it's easier to work on because you can single out which board has the problem on it!

[@titaniumman1493]

Many thanks for taking the time to explain how the displays work, very interesting.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Titanium Man, we appreciate you watching!

[@gavincostello4468]

I like watching how you fix these machines,

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you Gavin we're glad you're here!

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

And i was reminded of the time i had to resolder the whole rectifier board on the Dolly Parton i once owned since it had cracked solder all over, man it was a chore.

[@LyonsArcade]

Yeah, I think those are the same rectifier board as this one.

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

It is the exact same model, i remember slopping heatsink on mine aswell as a finishing touch.

[@AvengerII]

Heh... It's an obvious tie-in to the first Star Trek feature film but it has the original 1960s Enterprise design on the playing field while the updated design (from TMP) is on the scoreboard background!!! Looks like it was a decent pinball machine when it was new. I bet the Star Wars pinball machine from the same timeframe was still better! LOL

[@rcradiorichr1257]

Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and showing us beginners what to start with if you have a non working machine (I have one). Great explanation of the display boards. This and your past videos will be a big help in getting my Stern Freefall up and running.

[@LyonsArcade]

No problem... I'm going to upload a video just about the displays on Friday, it'll show how to fix them in a little more detail.

[@katkillad]

Thanks for saving this machine!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks for watching!

[@andrewnewman1248]

Very well presented and understandable video. Thanks for your great work

[@danijelcar5184]

Nice save on Star Treck👍

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Danijel!

[@danielnies7144]

Love the channel awesome videos learning a lot just getting a time machine tomorrow you thing really good shape They took good care of it Hope to one day come out in by a few machines from you would love to have some of your work keep up the great work

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Daniel swing on by sometime!

[@sunnynahal1198]

great stuff dude!!, got a flight 2000 am trying to get up and running

[@LyonsArcade]

You'll get it. That's a fun game, we've got one in storage that is completely destroyed!

[@TheLLmLLmLLm]

Going through One of these now, hope I can get it going!

[@evilash570]

This was a great trouble shooting/repair video, keep it up!

[@LyonsArcade]

No problem Evilash, see you on the next one.

[@mikequenzer9100]

combination of Star Trek the Motion Picture and the original series!

[@LyonsArcade]

Yup kind of a half and half! Thank you for watching Mike!

[@mikequenzer9100]

@@LyonsArcade I watch these with utter fascination that folks designed and made both EM and computer systems.... even more amazed how you analyze and repair the systems!! Thanks for the hours of viewing enjoyment... keep it going!

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

I think Flipp in France makes Bally soundboards (or it is Gottlieb's he makes).

[@simonbinni5269]

Dam thats a nice machine. Joe keep up the great vid's mate.

[@LyonsArcade]

No problem Simon, it's not nice yet but it's getting there....

[@dronejunglistplatoon]

Interesting. Nice job man!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Droneskie!

[@jussikuusela7345]

17:50 Are the displays VFD? One possibility is that this voltage is rectified but not filtered... if the connected board then has a filter capacitor, adding it will raise the resting voltage towards the peak voltage of the input.

[@devintinnon1847]

So i just started to look at my buddy’s star trek machine same on in this video has all the parts but doesn’t start/boot all the way. I checked the voltages like you showed on the power board and my tp3 is at 15 and tp5 is at 58 they are higher than you were saying. I do have 5.2 on the solenoid board. Where do I find the capacitor and what’s the size? Any suggestions would be great

[@LyonsArcade]

If the voltage is a little higher it's just because there's no load on it there's no problem there, and 5.2 on the solenoid board is good. Look at the connector on the left bottom of the MPU which is where the power comes into the MPU, make sure it's not corroded, make sure the bottom of the board where the battery is isn't heavily corroded, and once you get that straightened out check the test points on the MPU and see if you're getting 5 volts on there too. If you are, when it boots you should get some LED flashes that will tell you what's wrong with the game. If you watch any of our other videos on other bally or stern pinballs they all have the same game boards and they work the exact same as that Star Trek.

[@devintinnon1847]

Thanks for the response i watch a few other videos where you fixed the MPU i order a fix kit and will start that soon. In the mean time i was going to apply some of the fixes to the solenoid board but can’t find it on pinwiki or pinrepair maybe i’m not looking in right place.

[@brianmason1849]

One of my triggers are repeatingly giving points, even though the connections are open. Any pointers on these "newer" old machines

[@sofiacastro5177]

Hello! I am from Argentina. We have this machine, my father bought it when I was a n ... I want to fix it. it says the error is in the CPU. It can be fixed?

[@LyonsArcade]

Hello Sofia; Yes, they can definitely be fixed. Go to www.PinRepair.com and read their section about bally pinball machines, they all used the same CPU boards, and you can even buy new ones if you need to, but the old one can likely be repaired. There is a battery on it, that eats it up!

[@johnneilokowitz2682]

When you explain how to repair the display I need to write instructions down if this flickers the what to fix if missing part of the display then check this then ck this and so on.

[@PinBallReviewerRepairs]

What is it with Star Trek pinball machines having missing or exploded transformers. :( My Star Trek 25th Anniversary Pinball has the transformer but it needs refurbished and or replaced. When I turn the game on I call it the angry bees symphony with the end note being a blown fuse. :| Been hard finding a transformer for it as I do not have my pinball stock built up enough to be swapping out stuff unfortunately. :|

[@dannyyarbrough915]

Hay Joe why is it necessary to change big blue even if it's not defective ?

[@LyonsArcade]

There’s no big blue in this game but in general you’re talking about 40 year old capacitors and we’re selling them with a warranty so will that cap that’s good now because it’s been turned off for the last thirty years last long term once it’s being used again?

[@dannyyarbrough915]

Oh unlike the transistors and other parts that will be ok with age the big blues don't age well

[@LyonsArcade]

Yes capacitors have a paste in them that dries out.

[@dudeguy8351]

would always recommend changing mpu board old ballys?

[@LyonsArcade]

If you can afford it yes the new MPU's are awesome. The old one if it doesnt' have extreme battery damage can be repaired fairly easily usually, because all the chips are socketed.

[@dudeguy8351]

Thanks, I'll look into it. It would almost be worth having it ready to go and not have to repair. I'm also working on a Bally Star Trek, and I'm going to replace the rectifier board because previous owner cut wires from the J1 and J3 connectors and soldered them to the tests points. I did find a receipt in the machine and it looks like they paid someone 140 dollars for that service. Suppose it had anything to do with a blown varistor?

[@PlumGurly]

On the dot, I guess one could paint or tape where the lighted dot is not supposed to be.

[@Mik3Murphy]

Fascinating video. (

[@LyonsArcade]

It's a classic mainly because of the theme, it's not really any more fun than the others from around that time but has a killer theme. We're still working on it, the electronics took about 10 hours or so all together, we're doing the playfield now which will take probably another 15 hours or so.

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

Oh, btw, maybe you can help me with a Motordome question i discovered, in the manual, on the PWR Module page (page 28), there is a small notification on the bottom of the page that says "When 4 flippers are used FU1 should be 7Amp", but on the board itself, it says "5Amp" on FU1, what does that mean? my Motordome pops the FU1 fuse as soon as i touch the flipperbuttons, or the bumpers get activated, sofar ive figured its just missing a diode (not had any time to check) but could this have something to do with it?

[@LyonsArcade]

Yes that could be it.... does yours have a 5 in it? It's pretty common if there's extra flippers for the fuse values to be a little higher on the solenoid line (or the flipper line if it's seperate). The Williams Laser Ball we just finished has a similar sticker inside, says if there's more than 3 flippers to use a slightly larger fuse....

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

Yeah i put a 5 Amp in it the first day i got it, since i followed the text on the board. I will test a 7Amp in it tomorrow, and also add a sticker on the board about it for future owners.

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

Tried a 7 Amp today, and it held up abit further, then popped anyway, so i guess it require a diode aswell on the coil, although i checked it, and i only saw the remains of a diode on the right flipper coil, not on the left, there only supposed to be one diode? are the flipper coils interconnected with eachother?

[@LyonsArcade]

Sorry about the wait Luzur, no there should be a diode on every coil in the game. The flipper coils I believe may even have two each, if you look in the schematics it shows what should be on what.

[@SwedishEmpire1700]

No problemas, altough it wasnt the remains of a diode, it was the remains of a D103M43Z5UL63L6R condensator, and i also goofed up abit with the fuse, i put in a regular 7amp when it was supposed to be a 7Amp slo-blo, so the coils work again now (except the upper left one you score the million with), but i still have no displays, so im holding up for cash for new ones atm.

[@bobbyjack8033]

A year behind mmmm sounds like you need to work a little OT maybe a few weekends. :) lol

[@LyonsArcade]

Man we work every day, lol what's a weekend????

[@thecirinos]

Which soundboard would I need for this pin?

[@LyonsArcade]

It's called a AS2518-32 ... you can actually buy a brand new one here for $100: nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

[@thecirinos]

Joe's Classic Video Games thank you so much!!!!

[@alexandrepinto8528]

Qual. Valor da ponte retificadora

[@user-vd4ew9fg8l]

oh!スタートレック！(≧▽≦) ピンボールの基板 初めてみた 勉強させていただきます。

[@LyonsArcade]

とても楽しいゲームです！

[@AndyMJF]

We Have One Donated To Our Charity Shop. it dosnt turn on when I plug it in. can you help?

[@LyonsArcade]

You'd have to work through it like we show in these videos and find out what's wrong with it if you were trying to repair it...

[@AndyMJF]

Thanks. I'll give it a go

[@jamesthompson-dx1yl]

fantastic video! Where did you learn all this stuff?

[@WhimsicalGriffin]

Can you contact me? Im trying to fix my machine, same one as this one. The rectifyer isn't reading right. But cant afford a new one.

[@areizman]

Not sure if you ever got it going, but rectifier boards really aren't that expensive, 50-60 bucks tops for a brand new one. The most common failure is the lighting connections burn out the board pins connectors. There are connector rebuild kits you can buy but if the board is toast it's not a very expensive project to replace.

[@naytch2003]

I may not know nothing about electronics but I do know...there ain't no good in an evil hearted woman..you don't go writing hot checks..down in Mississippi and there ain't no good chain gang..stay Classic people 😆..can't believe we don't sell Waylon jennings t shirts down here in New Zealand..cmon now..have to check out this Amazon thing😁