1987 Ford F150 inline 6 EFI rough idle and stalling problems fixed

My truck has been idling VERY poorly recently and wanted to stall. I obtained a code 32 which indicated an EGR problem. Here I install a new EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor and it fixed my recent rough idling problem. It is also known as a DPFE as well as a few other terms. Hope this video helps someone else out! The only trouble I still have is when I try to start it up again after stopping at the grocery store for example. I turn the key, it fires right up and then often dies unless I rev it up a bit. I'm still not sure what's causing that but I have a few ideas.

[@jeffstephan6486]

Thank you ! This video you made 4 years ago gives me something new to check out here in 2022 on my 1990, f 250. Much appreciated! Jeff

[@hankbridges5055]

That's the EGR valve position sensor! That won't fix it! Disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR if it has one and plug it and drive the car. If it improves, it's NOT the EGR valve itself. It's a part sending vacuum to the EGR, a vacuum solenoid. You should have vacuum at the EGR at 1200 RPM'S but none at idle. Codes in the 30's on Ford's are EGR related.

[@skylermozier1044]

It would’ve been really nice to hear the rough idle, to see if it sounds like what my trucks doing, but great video

[@rbheiss]

Thanks for watching Skyler, and I appreciate your comment. Sorry I didn't think about starting the truck first. My main focus was to get the job done because time isn't on anybody's side! I work all the time as it is. Take care, Rolland

[@martystevens8357]

I thought that was the EGR valve position sensor. Just because it indicates that sensor don't always mean it is that sensor. It could be something causing vacuum at the EGR at idle like the charcoal canister purge valve. Check the troubleshooting feature first before replacing parts. Run engine at 2000 RPM'S for 2 minutes and then test. Usually it's not the EVP sensor. Recheck codes. They might run smooth until it warms up. Get a Actron CP9690 tester. It works on OBDI and OBDII up to 2013! Get the computer update cable.

[@thekingsilverado3266]

I ripped all that EFI junk & sensors off my ole rig. I got the Offenhauser Intake and a big Holley 4BBL carb and bolted that on. Works like a charm.

[@martystevens3969]

Get a Actron CP9690 tester. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get O2 running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor.

[@godbluffvdgg]

Bro, thanks for this...My 93 is acting the same way...But, a heads up back atcha......Sniffling is the WORST thing to do...Blow it out bro...I learned that from a doctor in 1973...NEVER sniffle in...Unless it's clear...Blow out to check...It's like clogging your exhaust...:)...Thanks again...

[@rbheiss]

Thanks man! Loved your comment even though I wasn't expecting advice on sniffling. I'll do my best in the future not to clog my exhaust!!! Take care, Rolland

[@hankbridges5055]

Get a Actron CP9690 or a CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, oxygen sensor tests, ABS, SRS, and MORE! Before replacing parts, check codes. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. Check code- connect with each code to see what they have in common. It is well- lit! It comes in a black pouch. EBAY has it. If you get improper vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. With live, you can check the CTS with the engine cold. If it says 33° and it's 88° outside, the CTS is bad. That can cause high idle and rich mixture. Re-check codes after each repair. Warm the engine to prevent false codes.

[@BillConnely]

Thanks for sharing I am sure this will help someone out to fix this problem.

[@thekingsilverado3266]

The Offenhauser intake and a Holley carb sure do fix that problem good.

[@controversialhunter8032]

Try the M.A.F. sensor, make sure you have no air leaks in the line, try cleaning first if still there replace it see if that helps , good luck .

[@sarahpatania4629]

thats just what i needed great video my code was 31 im ordering one today thanks

[@hankbridges5055]

Check on Google before replacing parts. There's a difference between yrs. and engines. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It gives codes and definitions. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY.

[@lifestyle818.]

@@hankbridges5055 00

[@rdeleon0360]

Replace your inline fuel filter! I did and made a big difference that was the problem.(runs great now). I was losing power and then it was turned off, wait a few minutes and it would come back on but never at full power like it should have been.... On 1990 E-150 4.9.

[@jessethrasher4807]

Thanks! I’ve been goin all over to try and find things that could be wrong with my 4.9, this will help me and my dad!

[@scottballhorn97]

I got the same exact problem I hope it works

[@ryanhogge8]

Mine is wanting to idle rough after driving for a while. Only became a problem after a three hour trip a couple weeks back. Got a big trip coming soon and I might need to do this.

[@frankm8533]

Mine idles at 1000rpm most of the time but has little skip to it then wants to almost around 500rpm then goes back to 1000rpm then it's fine for a few days then starts doing it again nobody can figure it out other wise it's a great truck I love driving it

[@morpheuspimp863]

Did you figure out what was causing it to cut off unless you rev it up? Mines is doing the same thing. I have a 95 5.0L

[@desiraeceniceros1468]

Thanks for the vid. So I replaced the EGR line. EGR sensor and the IAC.. mine is still idles high... but then fluctuates and then loses RPM almost to the point of shut off... I was thinking it might be the charcoal canister.. I would appreciate any help! I have a 1990 Ford F-150 XLT lariat

[@krow8571]

I changed all the same plus ECT, TPS and smog pump and still having the issue just after start up on 92 5.8 f150 xlt let me know if ya figure it out

[@desiraeceniceros1468]

Kris Bischoff I will try and figure it out. I asked a friend and they said it could be the vapor canister. Or vacuum lines

[@krow8571]

@@desiraeceniceros1468 vapor cannistor purge solenoid (CANP) I was thinking also maybe fuel pressure regulator I also got some nylon vacuum lines from MSC industrial supply at 23 cents a foot of differrent colors at 5/32 it came in 2 day I heard using rubber will degrade in a few months

[@desiraeceniceros1468]

Kris Bischoff thank you! I was looking for different colored lines! And yes I was going to try the fuel pressure regulator as well!

[@samuelbrown617]

My 1994 F 150 a inline 6-cylinder cranks and idles fine until it gets up to temperature then it starts idling real high and then starts jumping and then it will cut off has anybody else had this problem and what can I do to solve it

[@ALMIGHTYGARAGE]

Man my truck is doing the same thing I've replaced about everything when it heats up you drive it for while shit it off go to start it it'll start but have no power u can play with the throttle and it'll come around and come out of it but sometimes it doesn't start have to let it cool down I'm putting this part on tomorrow but mine don't look anything like this same engine to? Also thinking converter is clogged maybe idk I've been chasing this rabbit for a yr almost replaced everything

[@alonzogodschosenwarrioroa1716]

Good vid Iam glad that was the problem and it was fix thank you for sharing your video

[@Passgamingyt]

U ever figure out why it stalls when u start if back up? mine does the same thing when i go somewhere and im gone for like 30mins and it dies

[@richardpaff3224]

Thanks much appreciated!

[@stepherheifer9827]

I have the same problem!! It’s so scary I shut it off then it almost stalled in the middle of the road once! I dont know why!

[@_AndromedaGalaxy_]

I wonder if this could be the issue on my 94 f150 5.0L

[@mattb12341]

My 2002 f150 I start it and it starts right up and then the rpm rev up then goes back down and the truck dies like it ran out of gas. Do you know what it could be? I got a new battery and fuel filter and new fuel pump and still doing it

[@jermaine5729]

matt beezy iac or maf

[@thekingsilverado3266]

I fixed all that grief permanently. I got a big four barrel and bolted it on. Took some fixin and doin but man she screams goin down the hiway. Small animals and rusty Toyota's leap out of her way... The hell with all that EFI monkey business.

[@omarcovarrubias2487]

Where di you buy that sensor ? It's the same egr position sensor???

[@crazydino3048]

Thank you!!!!!!

[@305iglesias]

what size are the nuts does the ear sensor have?

[@tibzig1]

I have a 1982 Ford F150 inline 6, (4.9 L, I believe). What EFI system did you mount on it? It is a single barrel and I have not found any after market system that will fit.

[@adamcousins2459]

ford went to fuel injection starting in 1987. If you want a bolt on efi swap, you will have to get EVERY part from a later model truck, this includes the fuel tank and pump, fuel lines/filter, ENTIRE ENGINE, intake, exhaust, ALL WIRING. That is the only "bolt on" solution.

[@joncapricci6781]

holley sniper has a 1bbl efi system for the old carb sixes seems easy to do

[@tibzig1]

@@joncapricci6781 Yessum Thx. I found it and had it mounted about a year ago. It is indeed the Holly Sniper system ($1200.00 plus $150.00 installation at my regular mechanic's). However, I did have to buy a new Offenhauser intake because the old one just had a small 3" hole for the carb. She starts up quick and runs beautifully!

[@adamblancas6850]

I have a 1996 F 150 do you think i have the same issue my truck starts good first drive of the week but as i progress through the day or week my truck starts having trouble starting , then when it does start its good but it will shake hard and then turn off and wont turn back on again for 25-40 minutes . And sometimes while driving it will stall out at a light and im stuck because it wont turn on but when i bog out at the light it doesnt shake like it normally does when it wont start but it would give me a silent shut off which was something it hasnt given me before , i cant for the life of me pin point the issue and I don’t have time or money to get an inspection on it and have em tell me $3000 worth of problems trying to feed their own pockets lmaoo

[@adamblancas6850]

But for the most part the issue is going A to B then if i have to go back to A it is an issue bc sometimes my truck shakes (like hard shakes) and shuts off lmk if you got an idea on my problem

[@thommygun999]

I got an xlt lariat with a v8 and it does the same thing

[@hemilife83tollonjr22]

How much was it???

[@mattb12341]

You think I could be my egr valve to?

[@jaimesustaita285]

i wonder whu

[@captainwood2249]

Must be some great coke

[@Yo-mamashouse]

I was going to comment the same thing lmao.

[@JamesSmith-vt5hk]

87 ford hard to get in gear

[@victormiesner7804]

O