Fix for Low Fuel or no Fuel Pressure, Ford F150

[@iamgriff]

Well I am here because of my 95 F-250 5.8 issues. I really enjoy your straightforward approach, that isn’t filled with useless dialogue. You earned yourself a new subscriber, thanks for making this video!

[@mistamone]

Replacing fuel pressure regulator fixed my issue after replacing other parts I thought needed replacing. Before this video I'd just avoided driving the truck because of surging at high speeds, cutting off at stops, idling up and down. Now I drive it 30 to 60 miles a day as my primary work commute vehicle. 199243 miles and runs like a champ now. Thanks Brother!!!

[@dogmando22000]

Just fantastic,so many misleading or false advice on videos, your content was spot on the correct. Dual tank switch was the failure. No dropping of tanks or throwing away 200 bucks. 28.95 switch and no wasted time. Thanks again

[@paulmuench2491]

I appreciate the pace and the verbal details.The host does not assume we know all the details and tips.

[@mikusmaximus7507]

Highly informative, great instruction without being too complex 👍

[@mikefamig]

Clear, concise and great video work. Very helpful. Thanks for taking the time!

[@matthewmoore661]

365,000 views and 5,000 subscribers - not fair. Thanks for the content.

[@normhowes2975]

Learning to by pass the selector switch was the major thing l took from this. Thank You! l learned only the rear low pressure pump is running in by pass but no gas comes out of the line before the diverter valve. Low pressure front pump not running at all. High pressure only when hooked direct to battery. The dash comes apart much easier on a 87 F150.

[@darrellgeist2061]

I am glad to see that they move the bolt heads for the regulator to the top. Mine is on the bottom 1991 f150

[@mattreyes79]

I noticed that today on my 1991. The bolt heads are on the bottom. Also sort of difficult to reach. I’m going to attempt a replacement of this soon.

[@ClaudioLCaban]

@@mattreyes79 where does the black and white wire on a fuel pump goes .

[@giannirocco7492]

Darrell Geist,those little screws that go from bottom to top are a real pain,especially considering how small and hard to get to they are.When replacing the unit do yourself a favor and go from top to bottom!

[@davidreynolds4684]

Im working on a 90 f150 4.9 6 cylinder. Checked pressure with new gauges. With key on engine off 0 psi. Tried several times. Started it and 0 pressure . Pulled tester and connected to a tire 45psi. Pressed relief valve and fingers got wet but not 45-50 psi worth. Started it and did the same and my hand got wet but not shooting out. Pulled the line off the filter after dumping the fuel out of the filter and reinstalling it and after 10 to 20 key on engine off it raised to 30 psi. Left it for some time. Came back and it had dropped to 20psi. Twin tanks havnt worked in decades. Pulled the switch and found plastic plug melted around 4 contacts. Now I have to find what melted the plug. I understand that 4.9 should have 50 psi. I'm going to try to bypass the fuel filter with a tube advance auto parts sells. Good video. Thank you.

[@sergiogutierrez4062]

Thanks Mr. DAVE. I like your style a calm knowledgeable mechanic and a good teacher. I will try with my recently purchase: Ford F150 XLT 1993 with 302 V8 5.0L.

[@larrycrook-kx8st]

Very Helpful, an looking forward to putting truck back on the road Great informational video

[@daddydawg1902]

I'm having issues with my 1990 F-250 . Replaced the inline fuel filter but no difference. My relay is on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. Haven't checked the selector switch yet but I'm going to go ahead and replace that regulator under the hood.. Mine's a little different.. some genius designed it to have the hex head screws coming in from the BOTTOM! I had to use small vice grips to loosen and remove those screws but I gott'er done. I'm going to totally replace everything under the hood I can a little bit at a time but for now I just need to get it running reasonably right. Thanks for the great Video Dave.

[@8barbies779]

daddy, boy do i feel your pain on those underneath allens! i have a 1990 e350 van and i was so excited because of all the things i've had to change i looked at that one and said 'finally, an easy one i can actually get to', well...nope, that one allen you can't get to because of the plug for the fuel injector and 2 other plug wires. you can't get into that engine forward side of fuel injector clip release to remove the plug. i rotated injector and finally got stuff off but now i wonder if i didn't create a small leak at the injector gasket. i get more pressure with new regulator but now loose pressure fast. damn, everything's such a bitch with these vans. anyway, i had to reply when i read your pain because i'm your soul mate in said pain. wish me luck daddy:)))-barbie

[@Infowarrior-1776]

Love the video, I subscribed. Very helpful with my 94 f-150. I appreciate your time and effort!

[@zacharysmith7700]

good taste mike! I got the same truck :)

[@yizzyrocks3064]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKeYdqFsnNZ8Y7c

[@GrannyGamer1]

You just saved me 1/2 a month's income

[@hayj4]

You can bypass the ECM controller for the fuel pumps with a jumper wire on the diagnostic connector between connector 2 and 6. Then you don’t have to dismantle the dash.

[@erbenjimenez5337]

Great work keeping it simple , thanks for the info/tips 🤘🤘

[@howtodoityourself6178]

You bet!

[@Sncedayone]

Thanks for the info. It was good to know about the lubricant on the o rings! Very educational brother.

[@mrromeoangel2]

ThAnk you so much God bless very professional

[@ToyManFlyer1100]

Well, heres a doozey for ya'... 1993 Ford f150 5.0/302...135,000 on the clock... Had Crank, No Start Condition with fuel pumps keep priming bout 3 weeks ago...Went to 2 name brand parts store...Rent-A-Tool program....Busted out 2 spank brand new Fuel Pressure gauge Tests kits...Still new in the plastics...Hooked up to fuel rail both times according to the directions...No fuel pressure sensed by either gauge....But, truck today runs and drives as normal...Before (3 weeks ago) sounded like a old John Deere tractor... Took it to a shop, they couldn't find the problem...Left the rip you off shop, it was spitting and sputtering and cut off a couple of times till it warmed up...Made it back to my house and I parked it till I had the chance to clean the IAC with GumOut Carb Cleaner, Re-installed same old IAC with new gasket...Also added some Techron gas addititive to both tanks...Also, when manually push down on the fuel rail Schrader valve, some fuel spurts out, but nuffin ' to jump up and down about...Truck runs and drives today as if nuffin' ever happened...Pulling hairs and straws tryna figure what to do next...Also, pulled the EEC and clean off some of the rust on the holder and the EEC...Opened it up....Capacitors looked okay...It's a REMAN, not the original, but can tell water has gotten inside of holder and EEC box...Board looks good, tho'...I'm stumped...Help...

[@chrisgraham3962]

Sounds like that eec is bad again, buddy. I had the same problem with mine. If water gets into it, it'll cause the fuel pumps to continue running and run like crao

[@ToyManFlyer1100]

@@chrisgraham3962 ...Was looking to replace the EEC...Two months later....Betsey LuLu running like a Champ...No issues, except for what you get running a older truck....Thanks for your help and reply, tho.....👍👍😊😊

[@mirandabri834]

Hey there, let me add my 2 cents, I got a1992 f-150 4.9 liter Inline 6 with 133,000 miles and I have replaced every sensor and am still having issues with it running right!! I can start it up without any problems and it'll idle all day long almost perfectly however it has a little miss in it from when I got it. Anyways if I drive it around the block it will start to miss then stall/buck/jump, and I really noticed it whenever I'd go up a side street by my house that's a pretty good hill and I'd have to back back down and then it would sputter all the way back home (2 blocks away, lol)..... Anyways I bought a fuel pressure guage from Harbor Freight and tested it, and I couldn't believe that I wasn't getting any reading on the guage....?? Especially whenever I could start it up just fine..... so this went on for several days and I kept checking the sherader valve to make sure it was clean and nothing was hooked up wrong and I even took back the fuel pressure guage and got another one and Same thing--- NO PRESSURE???........ So i knew it was probably the fuel pump because the rear tank is the ONLY tank that works, it was like that whenever I got the truck.... Also I had just replaced the fuel filter about a month ago and I checked the pressure regulator and it it in good working order, so since its got new fuel injectors in it as well and a new distributor and new plugs and wires and new o2 sensor, I thought it's gotta be the fuel pump,......right ??......Especially when I try to go uphill and it starts with the sputtering...... I assume not enough fuel pressure. I don't know enough about the EEC, but I do know the previous owner replaced it and coil pack. So you're not alone, sir, whenever you're saying that you ain't gettin any fuel pressure...... I've seen it myself!! And yes, I was using the correct shreader adapter explicitly for the Ford F150 trucks! Any suggestions on what you all think, please let me know. God bless

[@ToyManFlyer1100]

@@mirandabri834 ....I gotta say...This problem got us both STOMPED....A week or so, it did that same "sputtering and spitting " like was not getting enough gas...Took out the EEC, cleaned the holder...I got water Intrusion from somewhere's...Last week, Trk running great, then cranked it up, spitting and sputtering, I just gave it the gas and said..."You ain't abandoning me a mile from home, It's you or me, Chicky....!!!"...Finally it started running on all cylinders....As of today, it's running okay...Cranks good, runs fine....This is nuts to say the least...Mechanics 'round here ain't all that good, even though its tons of shops....You know how to fix the problems with your trk better than they do....

[@Yophillips3272]

I have a 1992 it basically did the same thing ran great after I put the new computer in and then bad again, the last thing I changed was the coolant temp sensor and it seems to be running fine now. But my truck had the opposite problem it kept flooding out with gas. Hard to start and kept randomly dieing and sputtering, only reason I knew is I smelled gas and it would smoke once I got it started. Put new temp sensor in runs fine now so hopefully it's fixed for real this time. It did die yesterday but only on hills turns out I'm just out of gas lol, the gauge is all goofy it starts off at 1/4 tank and after a few minutes it goes to the real amount which is Empty. The back tank was empty anyways so it didn't help when I switched tanks. Goodluck

[@JeffStAndre]

Life saver of information sir. My '87 was having no start issues, and if i jumper the relay harness and force pumps to run, i start right up. With the relay installed i cant turn over. Was gonna replace relay unless you suggest further TS

[@GunStockReviews]

It depends on how far you have jumpered. If only around the relay, then replace the relay. If it is around the relay and the fuse, check the fuse. If it is all the way back to the tank selector switch, then check the switch and the roll-over switch. Relays are not too expensive, so it is an easy bet to just do the relay.

[@JeffStAndre]

@@GunStockReviews its so inconsistent to start up, but the relay does only buzz the pumps on for a second or 2 on ignition on. That may be it bc it fires up bypassed and the pumps constant.

[@JeffStAndre]

so it does seem to be more a bout fuel delivery to the injectors and the fuel pressure at the rail bottoming out requiring the pump by pass to "prime the system" in order to start. i am planing to replace the external pump and pressure regulator given their age at this point.

[@JeffStAndre]

Turns out in combination with the external pump, fuel regulator... my egr valve was leaking, alternator was dead, and distributor was out of time.

[@abelyndecastro7321]

Fantastic!!!!! I was check the fuse box and when closing it hit it hard and then my f150 shut down. I was worry until I found this video and problem solved

[@supertrucker1356]

Outstanding vid!

[@jonrandall5490]

Excellent video... what a nice man...

[@BoxcarsGarage]

I'm here because my 96 f150 5.0 "shudders" at around 40 to 50 ish mi hr. I'm not sure what my issue is yet but your video gives a great diagnostic plan thanks...appreciate you Sir

[@jaw352]

Having this same issue. Did you find a fix?

[@BoxcarsGarage]

@@jaw352 yep...made a vid on it. A little painful to watch...a long time ago. There's a bulletin out on it and potentially a free repair. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3nPXntjlquLras

[@yizzyrocks3064]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKeYdqFsnNZ8Y7c

[@nicholasparry6859]

Tested your intake/exhaust system PSI? Any CEL?

[@BoxcarsGarage]

@nicholasparry6859 no sir I did not. Got tired 9f throwing parts on it and dropped it off at the shop. Ended up getting a new distributor and a wire or two got swapped. And refreshed the ac ...had a leaking Schrader valve that I've known about for years. $1k later...all good. Thanks for the comment

[@johnguilfoyle3073]

There's a metal bracket available to hold your fuel pump selector switch in your dash. If you snap the screw holes off the back of your bezel you can buy this metal bracket and screw the switch to the dash instead.

[@matthewvelasquez2210]

where can I get one of these? just pulled my bezel off and discovered that the previous owner had already snapped the screw holes.

[@nickheflinger831]

My Town Car is driving me nuts great video. Tomorrow l will change that fuel regulated Tomorrow 4mm Allen hope it does the job !!!!

[@benjamincamarilloloza9012]

GREAT VIDEO 👍

[@skyking1328]

Thanks ! I have the exact same problem with a 96 ! You helped !

[@nickplatas2246]

Thanks so much Sir your explanation was the best for me I fix it bc watching this video mine truck running really good thank you so much

[@b-17wingman37]

There are several ways to test psi reg. Check to make sure it holds a vacume . Take vac . hose off when running and psi should go up approx 8 psi. Also look for any fuel in vac hose.

[@johnathanmack2371]

This was helpful my 91 ford bronco was having starting issues its getting fire n gas but aint turning over i replaced timing chain but the initial start of my problem was i would be driving and it would die out i wiggle the fuel relay and it would start up again i thought the relay was problem but not

[@mattholdren9318]

This was truly fantastic.

[@forgottenwarrior1776]

Thanks for the info!!

[@uranusanalyzes9632]

Bought a 93 4.9 in November. It won’t start without ether. I’m going to try this next.

[@123kmcd]

did you ever find out what the problem was i'm having the same issue 1993 f 150 4.9.changed a lot of parts even the computer. Please let me know Thank You Ken

[@uranusanalyzes9632]

@@123kmcd I’m hoping it will be the fix. But can’t say yet. the fuel pressure gauge was $60, I’m doing this with my wife watching the finances so I have to fund this without her knowledge, which isn’t easy in a cashless economy. But I got the gauge and I have good psi. So I had to get the fuel pressure regulator which with shipping was $70. I got it from rock auto and didn’t go with the cheapest one. I just got the part a week ago and haven’t had the time to install it. I also got a fuel filter and too I haven’t had time.

[@AlLMyMaDArT-vf7ur]

the framing simply pops out with the selector switch on a 1993 150XL no disassembly of dash. awesome video though.. precise thorough and slow enough to take notes going along .. thank you

[@jamesschwamberger7958]

Awesome video. Thank you for your info.

[@grupoinztinkto]

I have a 96 f150 and truck was running fine, one day it died on me while running, sat there for a good while trying to get it on and finally cranked on and ran a bit rough ! Month goes by and once again, same issue while pumping gas. It took a long time trying to get it on, idle was a bit stuttery and ran a bit rough but got me home.

[@charlesdiaz6974]

Thank you so much you make a great teacher thank you thank you I have problem with my 99 Expedition pressure regulator like you said I'm going to do a diagnostic step-by-step like you say thank you for showing this video

[@ODBGurl-l9e]

Nice video

[@hudsonbyblow9491]

Starting at the 3:20 mark, there is a wire connecting to the thing, but where does the wire go to? A battery? And what about the other side of the battery? Or does it go somewhere else?

[@clems6989]

He said to the battery

[@ianconley6673]

Bypassing the electronics just checking the pumps themselves. Straight from the battery

[@PredatorOmnivore]

On these EEC-IV systems it is much easier to give power to the fuel pump by placing a jumper between pins 2 and 6 off the EEC-IV test connector.

[@carlosberrios4487]

Good work ,l prefer beging with the relay. Thanks

[@grayghost832]

Very in depth. Good info on jumping the fuel pumps too.

[@howtodoityourself6178]

Thanks! 👍

[@charlieromeo5340]

Very informative. Thank you.

[@renflo86]

Awesome Video!!

[@alberto8914]

very good information, thanks for the video.

[@MainelyCannabis]

Amazing video! Question for you. I did the test. I get no reading and no sound on the front tank. On the rear tank when I touch to positive on battery, it just sparks a tiny bit. I have my pressure gauge hooked up, and not getting anything. Is it possible it's a grounding issue? Does it ground off the frame, and maybe I can clean it off? The front tank and pump is new. Thanks again for the video! Cheers

[@jackjones9460]

Looks like a good video.

[@angelscheifler6061]

excelent thanks for you time and dedication¡¡¡

[@billbonu1639]

Wow I'm amazed you didn't show a mechanical fuel pump on a 2022 vette or something like most of these videos do.

[@joshskalicky779]

You need this for inertial startup

[@KStewart-th4sk]

When you did the initial pressure check for each pump, the pressures were in spec., yet you changed the pressure regulator. So was the regulator not maintaining within specs. with the engine running? It would have been more informative to see what was going on with the old regulator still on with the engine running or was it malfunctioning at higher engine speeds? Taking the dash out seemed to be an unnecessary step---in this case anyways, although i suppose it would help those having an issue with the tank selector switch. Thanks for the video.

[@ronsellers5963]

Magic lube is great to lube up new hoses, helps them fit correctly.

[@nickpanhead7209]

Wow that was an excellent video thank you for posting. Is there any way to check fuel pumps without guage. Maybe by listening to it kick on ? I know its not the same thing as what you show in your video. My 87 f150 5.0 died on me, as i was driving. Pulled over for a few it started up went about a block and died again that happened like 5 times now she dont want to start it cranks but no start. I spayed starter fluid into intake and it started to a stumble but died right away. Any help

[@blackyboi2885]

most fuel injected engines have a fuel rack on top of the engine. its a valve like a air valve stem...just use a nail to push in that valve and a squirt of gas will come out..that will release all pressure in that rack....then flip the switch to the other fuel tank if you have duel tanks, turn on ignition and then turn it off and again use the nail to push in that valve stem like device...if fuel squirts out again then you know the fuel pumps are working and that is eliminated as a problem

[@richardtaylor6592]

Thank you

[@howtodoityourself6178]

You're welcome

[@waynew2831]

Thanks for the video. What should the fuel pressure be for a n1996 f 150 with a 5.0L? Thank You

[@deanfreebee2438]

Cleaned tanks on f150 changed fuil pumps and same problem .hope you can help .haven't tried the full pressure.tbank you

[@rahaxyz]

Thank you v.much appreciate

[@howtodoityourself6178]

You are very welcome

[@blackout260112]

I have a inertia switch on the driverside of my 1990 f150 xlt lariat, is this the fuel shutoff or is it on the passenger side kick panel

[@johnphilpottand6361]

It’s your correct switch. I have the same thing. You’ll see a little bit of red through a slit towards the top

[@thomasbennettjr1188]

Thanks for great video learned a lot

[@patrickscaia9335]

Very good. I have a 1992 Dakota but it helps.

[@rexsmith6495]

It is INERTIA, NOT INERTIAL. YES U CAN TEST IT, IT SHOULD HOLD 25 LBS FOR AT LEAST 20 SECONDS WITH GAUGE CONNECTED AT SCHRADER VALVE (MAYBE MORE THAN 25ISH) if it does then the regulator is working, it may show more constantly while running.

[@marte1a256]

I have a 2002 F150 4.6. No tank selector switch. How can I bypass to check if the fuel pump is working and how can I test the fuel pressure regulator

[@Cameron78998]

🤬🤬🤬

[@luismora991]

Thanks good video thank you so much

[@andresblanco5264]

excelent

[@edwardsvapereviews8261]

I definitely need some guidance on my 1994 Eddie Bauer Bronco

[@Teleman01]

I have a question… I just put a new REAR gas tank, fuel pump in sending unit in my 1993 dual tank F150 302. the front tank works great. I was finding that the rear tank wasn't sending any fuel, so I hooked 12V directly to the fuel pump, used a clear hose on the output, and what I am seeing is it's sputtering a little bit of fuel out. Very little. Why would this happen? Could it be a bad fuel pump? Shouldn't it be a solid stream of fuel coming out of the fuel pump down that hose? Now, I didn't prime the hose before I hooked it back up. I don't think you need to do that. Just curious what you think I should look at next.

[@Maples01]

The 4.9 inline 6 requires 50 PSI, or you get vapor lock.

[@styleauto1025]

how do you connect the fuel tester no one show this on youtube

[@UnderTheTuscanNun]

Wait how did you power the switch in the beginning of the video? Is that the wire you have listed in your tools in the video description?

[@howtodoityourself6178]

I just connected it to the positive battery post.

[@billyhenderson765]

I have a 1986 f150 and I have replaced both pumps and the filter and put in gas treatment but still when you turn the key it will fire up and only keep running if you pump the gas and even then you can’t rev it up and as soon as you let off it dies.

[@RylanCunningham1]

Regulator. Had a similar problem

[@whopper2king]

Also sounds like vacuum leak

[@williamdillingham5781]

Just about any kind of spray lubricant is good to use for the O ring (wd40 , liquid wrench and such) are good products for that

[@busnorth]

So much easier to farm diagnose the old trucks and fix. Mine 300 6 has 300,000 plus miles and still very reliable. My 2012 won't start and so many possible things could go wrong. Not reliable. Now got to Tow 75 miles to a big city grauge to fix.

[@johncollins8304]

Thats great if u have and external regulator. P But a Corsa is internal and when you uy a pump it's missing the "cap" that as the regulator built in.!!!!

[@bigvickers2349]

Just bought a 87 ford bronco that is supposed to be rebuilt. Has a very strong idle and runs great in neutral but if you put it in drive it gets completely gutless and sputters around. It didn’t have any vacuum lines when I bought it, replaced all them and still have the same issue. I’m clueless as a young man working on something older than I am but could use some advice if anyone has anything

[@L.Scott_Music]

Thank you. I am doing this now. Question. As you are putting it on coming off the manifold there is a 3/8" vacuum hose that turns 90 degrees, runs toward the firewall and then runs down behind the intake manifold. (The one without the vacuum T). What is that? What does it go to? (I have a 1995 F150 5.8 EFI, in CA.) Mine wiggles around a lot and I can't easily tell if it is attached to something broken or not.

[@howtodoityourself6178]

While I’m not clear on the tube you are referring to, most of the diverters and control doors in the heating and air conditioning ducting use vacuum actuators. If it is going through the fire wall it is likely going to those actuators.

[@ImVow]

Question how do you know when pressure is low ?

[@compacachorro2908]

Wondering why not just put key on (forward) too test fuel pressure on rail ???? then check fuel pressure when engine running ?????

[@Paul-qj7oh]

Will it run with out the vacuum hook up can you just block the vacuum off on the pressure regulator.?

[@gillisBR549]

EEC? Where is it located, having trouble with my dads now mine 87 F150. Although it’s only got 24,000 original miles but sometimes I hear pump ( rt under driver door) engage sometimes not. Aren’t there pumps in each tank also? Then there’s the round black thing tank lines run into, then another inline pump, then filter.

[@johnny1173]

What are the black parts nearest to the fuel regulator? I have two male wire plugs ends hanging near there and I'm afraid a part was stolen from my mechanic

[@marvinlowe3213]

Does the pumps run all the time or does kick on an off

[@howtodoityourself6178]

Pump runs all the time.

[@howtodoityourself6178]

It is a bypass system which sends the excess or unneeded fuel via the return line back to the tank. It is supposed to run all the time.

[@ottobauner9828]

They way to check the regulator is with a manual vacuum pump. If working correctly fuel pressure will decrease when more vacuum is applied

[@vickvam3412]

You said it backwards

[@ottobauner9828]

@@vickvam3412 you are correct. Must have had both thoughts try to come out at once . When running if you remove the vacuum it will gonto regulated pressure. When you hook up a vacuum pump and pull vacuum it pulls the diaphragm and reduces fuel pressure. I corrected it thank you sir

[@msegert173]

This instruction video is for diy mechanics...your instructions sound like your talking to another mechanic...if your going to use such technical wording...back it up with how exactly it's done ...so annoying

[@ottobauner9828]

@@msegert173 im sorry i spoke plane english. Not one thing i said was technical. The process i described uses basic hand tools. If you dont know what the fuel regulator is you dont need to be testing the fuel system. And a vaccum pump is available at Harbor freight for under 20.00 and if your going to work on cars tou need to have one

[@SmokedTirez]

In your description you say the Inertia switch comes after the selector switch. It doesnt. It goes like this...fuelpump relay to red w/yellow wire on the inertia switch plug that sits between the black n white and the red wire on the fuelpump selector switch plug you tested both fuelpumps off of . You test the inertia switch by testing the red w/yellow wire for power using a DVMM and the key turned to the ON position. Both fuelpumps should register 43-45psi each with engine not running and after the engine starts vacuum suction lowers the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure should read 33-35psi to run the engine properly...Another thing to do to get a more accurate reading is to change the fuel filter after doing initial testing...This will tell you if you had a fuel restriction. Most times the antibackflow checkvalves on the fueltank outputs are the culprits........

[@UnderTheTuscanNun]

Plz do tell about these check valves..

[@jdomas86]

My question is what was the fix? Weren't you getting the right amount of pressure from that pressure regulator when you put your gauge on there so why did you have to replace that pressure relief regulator

[@roflno6157]

Anyone know what gauge wire he is using to go directly from battery to fuel pumps?

[@jdomas86]

My fuel pressure regulator bolts come up from the bottom do you know how much of a pain in the neck that was

[@lightninghouse6385]

When I power up my rear fuel pump with a test wire, it works. But when my rear tank is selected and I power the key on, I bet no pressure. Is this the tank selector switch that is bad?

[@mackendw]

will a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator cause VERY poor mileage? 5.0L 87 F150 and I get around 110 KM on 1/2 a tank of gas. That's like 60 miles.....

[@howtodoityourself6178]

Are you seeing gray or black exhaust? Burning that much fuel, you should see something out of the tail pipe. Pull a couple of spark plugs to see if they are fouling from excess fuel. Are you finding this fuel drop from looking at the fuel gauge or is it from the amount of gas you put in at the gas station? If it is just the fuel gauge, you could just have a bad fuel sending unit. Are you sure you do not have a fuel leak in the system somewhere? If you are putting that much fuel through the engine, it could be the pressure regulator - it is a cheap replacement - but I would look elsewhere first to be sure that much fuel is going through the engine.

[@mackendw]

@@howtodoityourself6178 Nope. the truck has 2 fuel tanks. running on the front one. It may be the DFR dumping return fuel into the rear tank. Will test this next week.

[@bowtieoskar2726]

Hi there 👋 I have a 1994 Ford F150 xlt 5.0 4x4 it recently started kind of bucking acting like it run out of fuel when I'm driving it and sometimes will stall at a light can the fuel pressure regulator be the problem or fuel pump ?

[@howtodoityourself6178]

Yes, it could be either, but I would check for vacuum leaks first.

[@wile.emario8957]

Why is my fuel pressure tester not reading? i have it hooked up to fuel rail and once primed my needle on tester does not move. First truck ive had with 5.8.

[@vitalisah2261]

I have a problem with my 2001ford ranger yes it start but don't have power May you please help me to solve the problem.

[@28282222]

Any idea why there is NO fuel pressure when I checked the pump and it is good?

[@jeffsnyder2051]

how do you know it wasnt the tank switch?

[@comodice905]

Sir my truck becomes hard to start below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Starts normally in warm weather. Any ideas

[@kennethhaines3229]

Question went to get tank sensor/fuel pump and they ask about how many gals front tank takes .. I never filled it up to know , does it really matter

[@howtodoityourself6178]

It is probably an after-market fuel pump, which is fine. There are some very good after-market parts and I use them as well. It doesn’t matter for the fuel pressure - it is the physical size and electrical connections that they are trying to match which is where the number of gallons in the tank helps determine the pump needed. It is best to pull the old pump and physically match it. The number of gallons will be in the specification section of the owner’s manual. If you don’t have one, there are several that people post online.

[@kennethhaines3229]

Ok redid fuel system now another problem ... replaced fuel filter ,replace fuel pump , replaced relays and regulator. Starts up run and idles around 1 ,1 1/2 but when I hit gas petal it bogs down and dies . What Im I missing to do ?????

[@howtodoityourself6178]

Check the vacuum lines. Sounds like a vacuum leak to the regulator.

[@shwing0247]

@howtodoityourself6178 How do you hook up the fuel pressure gauge? Do you have a video for that?

[@sergiogutierrez4062]

If you see the fuel rail, you will find a valve looks like the valve where you inflate a tire. You connect there, that's it.

[@mase202]

i tested the direct power to my fuel pump and i get no fuel pressure does anyone know what might cause this? thanks

[@howtodoityourself6178]

You didn’t mention if you could hear the pump run or how you connected. If the pump is not running: bad wiring or bad pump. If the pump is running: clogged fuel line, clogged fuel filter, kinked fuel line, bad pressure regulator or bad fuel pump.

[@mase202]

@@howtodoityourself6178 thanks for the reply i put it a new fuel pump used the existing assembly 1996 ford f250 yes i can hear the pump replaced fuel regulator. the truck does turn on but idles up and down and eventually losses power and turns off sometimes. im confused with the no fuel pressure reading. hope you can help. thanks