1987 ZG1000 Front forks Complete disassembly and rebuild

I rebuild the Front Forks on my 1987 Concours ZG1000.
Parts List:
www.partzilla....
11009-1127 Gasket,Fork Cylinder
44065-1085 Bushing-Front fork
92001-1309 Bolt,Fork Cylinder
92033-1036 - CIRCLIP
www.racetech.com/
FMBI 41201 P - Fork Bush Inner-41x20x1
This project spanned over a 3 week time frame while I waited for parts.

[@fasteddie5314]

Great video...very informative

[@pipersall6761]

Very nice. Great video and so helpful! Thank you sir.

[@DoubleAAron-]

thanks for the assume tips!!

[@scottjones5455]

Man you went to a lot of trouble putting this together and I appreciate it, the left fork on my 86 Connie is leaking and I can feel the difference in handling for sure. Springtime is right around the corner so I need to get busy.

[@SCWMoto]

Thanks Scott. Best time is in the spring. Gives you the whole summwr to ride. Ride safe!

[@williamsjeff96]

Thanks! Instead of welding a nut to a socket, I just welded it to the next sized down nut.

[@dammitdan83]

Great tip on getting the lower Allen bolt unstuck! I don’t have a tack welder so I used a 1” nut glued into a deep socket with some RTV. I wouldn’t have thought of it if it weren’t for your video!

[@SCWMoto]

Now that’s another way to skin a cat. Thanks for sharing. Ride safe

[@George-ie1si]

Mine is an 89 and when I unscrewed the 19mm cap the spring shot out. It had a short metal tube above the spring and the spring was the opposite way the tightly wound end to the bottom.

[@SCWMoto]

The metal tubes were introduced later in that generation of forks so that’s correct. There are different schools of thought with the spring position but for me, either way they are installed, doesn’t change the spring rates. Just keep right and left consistent. Ride safe.

[@georgemooyman7155]

@@SCWMoto Hi thanks for taking the time to respond.

[@strshooter7399]

Bob, just and incredible fix on the front forks. Wow. My only thought was the bugger 10mm bolt at the bottom ~ I'd guess is it came from the factory that way, as I had to remove mine the 1st time I changed the seals and I know it had never been done previously. It spun, and I tried all manner of trying to stop it from turning as you did. it was an absolute nightmare to remove. I used a long threaded rod, with 4 nuts, 2 at one end jammed against each other really tight, and the other 2 at the other end jammed tight against each other. Inside the one end, the lower nut fit inside the "cylinder fork" ~ part that the Hyd fluid meters through ~ and I was able to keep the upper jammed nuts with a large box end wrench I think, and used a 10 mm allen to remove the bottom bolt. Your method with the nut tacked on the other deep well socket seems a whole lot cleaner and simpler. I don't have any welding gear, so I used what I could, and it worked. Just a real good job on your part and excellent video. Thanks again for these videos. Just so much good info and technique and knowledge here for the older Connie owners.

[@SCWMoto]

Yup those were a bear. They were previously serviced. You could tell be the nicking on the allen bolt. But perseverance pays off every time. Thanks for the comment