1988 Chev Silverado No Start

This vehicle was towed in for a cranks no-start condition. I had replaced the fuel pump about 13 months ago but the problem this time turned out to be ignition related. Video shows a tip to simulate a reference signal to see if the ECM would respond accordingly.

[@dzdhandzcan816]

🔥 video.....I have an 88 obs - with a 350 I believe I was omw to work yesterday 11/3/23 & it was turning over very strong but would not start... so I’m guessing it’s the Ignition module, control module, map sensor, or fuel pump I pray it’s a cheaper fix $50-$300. I don’t want to just throw parts at it. I don’t like to fix things that aren’t broken as my grandfather would say.

[@MrRebustr]

Beautiful work

[@brandonhindle282]

My same problem..thank u that fixed it

[@johnhardenburg8541]

Dude i think i got it......not a a car mechanic and it wasnt easy, but a pro mech in town didnt even check that...will give an update

[@itsepickills2255]

Hey Phil I got a 87 r10 and just replaced starter, battery, and alternator is good but it just clicks once, no cranks. Being having this problem for awhile it recently died and then randomly started cranking and working for a few days and now it’s dead again. Anything would help thanks

[@PhillipBailey]

Well if the starter just clicks and dies not crank your losing power to the starter. Perform voltage drop tests on the cables. Alternatively you could connect a significant test light to the control side of the starter and see what it does. If it lights and goes out while holding the key in crank then you have a control circuit problem. Safety switch, wiring etc. If it stays lit the measure the voltage on the battery cable at the starter while cranking or at least attempting to crank. Connect the pos volt meter lead to the starter battery bolt and the negative to the starter case. You need a minimum of 10 volts for the stater to work correctly. Check voltage drops on the positive and ground circuits. Good luck

[@deigo2629]

I chased my tail for days ... replaced the fuel pump fuel filter icm rotor and cap plugs rebuilt the fuel injector and replaced the injectors .. nothing worked .. found another video.. turns out it was the map sensor .. it failed and was causing the truck to send way to much fuel causing it to flood

[@559Obsalex]

Im having the same problem replaced the same stuff the fuel pump seems to be running now i have spark but no fuel should i change the map sensor any suggestions

[@lamborgatti-4783]

@@559Obsalex i just did a top end rebuild,when i was taking things off the battery was connected and while moving the harness around one of the connectors to the started hit a part of metal causing a spark,after that im getting spark but no fuel to my tbis

[@559Obsalex]

@@lamborgatti-4783 check all your fuses.check if your ecm1 fuse I believe check if its blown

[@dennisroberson4637]

How did you or where did you get the tester on coil wire

[@PhillipBailey]

a.co/d/54wGmiv but should be available from your local parts store

[@danielvelazquez4239]

I have spark but no fuel on my 1990 c1500 4.3 I’m not getting any check engine light on I checked my relays and power to fuel pump all check out good but not getting power to the ignition module, the cap and rotor and ignition coil all new any ideas of what the issue can be

[@PhillipBailey]

The ECM is not awake if you have no injector pulse, no fuel pump prime and no check engine light. Need to check fuses that supply battery power and ground to the ECM. If they are good check the ECM grounds. If I remember there is a fusible link on one of the insulated feed studs by the fuel pump relay on the right side of the firewall. You will still have spark with out the ECM on these.

[@whatta7793]

5.7 Vortec, crank no start, fuel pump makes noise, spark at the coil, only 1 spark at the plugs initially when trying to start, replaced entire dist system, crank sensor, ignition control module, sometimes when cranking it will backfire, but through the intake.. clueless on what's next other than possibly the PCM.. any advice?

[@PhillipBailey]

Sounds like your distributor is out of sync. Did you have spark consistently at the plugs while cranking before distributor replacement? Check for a good strong blue spark at the coil wire ging into the distributor . Should jump 3/4" and be blue. If yes remove number 1 plug. Turn the engine over in short bumps feeling for compression stroke in number 1 cylinder. When you get a puff stop and then turn the crank by hand until the timing mark is at 0TDC. remove tge distributor cap and confirm the rotor tip points to number one sparkplug tower. If not remove the distributor and realign it. If it is lined up and you still have weak or no spark at the plugs replace the cap and rotor. Some of the cheap AM caps crossfire internally. I've also seen the rotor with a pinhole in the center and the spark going straight to ground. If you have good spark at the plugs it's possible the timing chain has jumped. Hard to confirm that now that you removed the original distributor. Check fuel pressure and fuel injector delivery. HTH

[@PhillipBailey]

What ended up being the problem?

[@whatta7793]

@@PhillipBailey ended up being the coil.. I was testing it wrong for spark, I was testing the wrong end of the coil and it was sparking, but had a friend check it out and he tested the end that I didn't test, and it wasn't strong enough spark, hardly any spark at all.. changed out the coil and it fired right up. Has new everything else on it now though, lol.

[@swagbucksman34]

I have a 91 gmc it's been sitting for about 2 years I replaced the fuel filter when I first bought it and I tried to drive it today and it turned on and drove for about 30 minutes started to stutter then shut off I went to try to start it and it would crank but wouldn't start I thought it was out of gas but it wasn't

[@PhillipBailey]

That's tough to say. Start by confirming the check engine light comes on with the ignition key and the fuel pump primes. If not check powers and grounds to the ecm. Next check for spark at a plug. Spark should jump 1/2" and be nice blue. If no spark check at the coil wire. If spark present there the problem is inside distributor cap and rotor. No spark check for injectors delivering fuel. Remove the air filter and watch for fuel spray at each injector. No spray you need to check for injector pulse with a noid light. No pulse check distributor pickup inside the cap on the module for corroded connections, check for power at the ignition coil pink or orange wire with key on. Test the pickup coil resistance should be between 500 and 1500ohms. Try a new ignition module. If you have injector pulse, spark but no fuel delivert

[@PhillipBailey]

No fuel delivery need to check fuel pressure. Unfortunately there's no test port. Try spraying some carb cleaner in the throttle body while cranking to see if it starts. If so you might have a failed fuel pump. Hope this helps you.

[@swagbucksman34]

@@PhillipBailey thanks yeah it was weird it seems to have power and all that but I guess it was just burning the fuel that was already in the lines

[@heakmoney13]

Phil hoping u can help me out. 5.7 TBI crank no start issue. Have installed new plugs wires cap rotor fuel pump and fuel filter. Will crank but no start. Injectors are not priming. If you spray some starting fluid in the throttle body it will turn over and run like a champ. When cranking the injectors aren’t spraying fuel but if you prime it with starter fluid starts right away and the injectors begin function as normal. Lost on the issue

[@PhillipBailey]

You didn't say if you had spark while cranking but since it runs on an alternative fuel source it must have. It would then seem to be fuel related. Have you confirmed actual fuel pressure at the injectors? It could be that the fuel pump is slow to supply fuel and running it longer helps. Connect a noid light across an injector and confirm that the light blinks while cranking. What is odd about your issue is it keeps running once it is started on alternative fuel. I would not recommend starting fluid be used as that is very explosive and can do engine damage. Try carb cleaner or propane. Check the pickup coil wires for corrosion inside the distributor on the ignition module as well. A weak signal may not get converted to a proper reference to the ECM on the purple wire at the distributor. Any codes set? Data parameters in range? MAP reading around 4.7 volts KOEO, Temperature reading correctly, TPS around 0.6volt KOEO. If the TPS is reading WOT (greater than 3.7 volts) the system will be in clear flood mode while cranking and you will have little to no fuel delivery. Try unplugging the TPS. Good luck and keep us posted...

[@PhillipBailey]

What was the problem?

[@heakmoney13]

Hey Phil ended up being Ignition Control Module on the distributor. Had me lost for a few.

[@559Obsalex]

@@PhillipBailey hey im having the same problem so at first when i would spray starting fluid it would start but now that i have got a new distributor its a Chinese brand distributor from autozone i had tested the old one its still good should i put the old one in and see if i get spark im getting fuel to the tbi its spraying but no start

[@PhillipBailey]

@@559Obsalex if you have fuel delivery from the injectors then check for spark at the plugs followed br spark at the coil wire. If you have spark at the plugs likely the distributor is not timed correctly. If you have spark at the coil wire going into the distributor but not at the plug wires it could be a faulty rotor. I'd recheck base timing. Take the plug out of number 1 and put your finger into the sparkplug hole. Have a helper bump the starter until you feel compression from the plug hole. Next turn the engine slowly by hand until the timing mark on tge balancer lines up to 0. Remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointed to number one tower. Also make sure the wires are on in the correct order. 18436572

[@DusterNutbar]

I have weak spark at the spark plugs and my injectors are working fine. I believe i have a bad connection in the rotating magnet mechanism itself.

[@PhillipBailey]

Check the quality of the spark at your coil wire. If its good there is likely a failed cap or rotor. If its weak at the coil try a new coil. Also check the pickup coil connection to the ignition module inside the distributor. These connections had a tendency to corrode although that will usually affect both spark and injector pulse

[@DusterNutbar]

@@PhillipBailey Just waiting for a day when theres not freezing rain to swap one in. Hoping it solves my issue.

[@RusticShine]

Alright dazzle me a fun tale. So I have a 1991 c1500 5L v8 TBI engine. And I bought a 1983 caddy coupdeville with the infamous 8 6 4 4.1l boat anchor. Looking at the two motors they both have the same TBI. What are the odds I can just plop that 5l in that caddy and just adapt a few wires to the correct sensors and this will run?

[@PhillipBailey]

I'm sure the two engines have different bellhousing bolt patterns, torque converter bolt patterns, motor mounts etc. The 8-6-4 ecm won't like the 5L thing set up and I doubt you can simply swap the 5L tbi ecm into the caddy. In short it will be a shit show I'm sure.

[@RusticShine]

@@PhillipBailey caddy uses the same transmission believe it or not.

[@PhillipBailey]

If you are sure the two use the same transmission then it may not be too bad. Still will likely be some programming differences in the transmission controls. I'm not sure if you could just swap ecms but I doubt it. The engine harness will be different for sure. It definitely would not be a simple swap imo and may not be worth the trouble unless you can do all this yourself. Then there's motor mounts, AC mounting, power steering brackets, etc. Good luck.

[@RusticShine]

@@PhillipBailey the 305 has a serpentine belt and all accessorie drives are on the motor v.s a ton of v belts like the 4.1. So power steering shouldn't be an issue, motor mounts I am not certain about yet. But I'll have the motor out Saturday in the caddy and will let cha know.

[@lovetrump1088]

Sadly, it's just NOT like it used to be with the engine swaps.....🥵@@PhillipBailey

[@yashuwasaves4851]

Have a 1989 5.7 and it's heard to do the ngs your self.... but I got the truck didn't change anything but I did get on line and looked good r a dighram for the fiering order and put them like that were supposed to go but when I crank on it wonts to stop all most it sounds like but no start.and by the way before I did anything it started and ran fine

[@PhillipBailey]

Sounds like the plug wires are mixed up. Check the plug wire routing.

[@jesustorres3863]

Where can you get the ignition module

[@PhillipBailey]

If you are referring to the ignition module inside the distributor any parts store should be able to supply that. May not stock it anymore since its been a lot of years since they were used. (1987 to 1994) i believe all the TBI V8s until the Vortec.

[@scraplifetrashtocash4551]

Ive got a 93 gmc 2 wheel drive 4.3 gas. It was parked since 2019 and drove when parked. Now it not starting. I did check to see if the injectors was pushing fuel out and they wasn't. Im going to check those with a noid light. Its doing what this truck is doing. Im going to check for spark at the coil and the module also. Can it be something else?

[@PhillipBailey]

Need to check spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse etc. I would suspect that the fuel pump has failed from the fuel setting too long in the tank. Do you hear the fuel pump run for a second when you turn on the ignition? It should also run during cranking. Try spraying some carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it will start briefly.

[@abelluna7024]

Where could I get a control module from?

[@PhillipBailey]

If you are referring to the ignition module inside the distributor any parts store should be able to supply that. May not stock it anymore since its been a lot of years since they were used. (1987 to 1994) i believe all the TBI V8s until the Vortec.

[@mike-bj4dk]

@@PhillipBailey yes you can still buy them new at oriellys or autozone i just bought one for my 89

[@eljefe62]

@3:45 what if that molex connector is all dried and crumbling, can I get just that connector?

[@PhillipBailey]

If you're referring to the white connector at the module inside the cap that is part of the pickup coil. They tended to crumble with age. Clean up the individual terminals, slide some heat shrink onto them, shrink and install the wires. Take note of the polarity as its important. If you really want to change the white connector you have to pull the distributor, disassemble and replace the pickup coil. HTH

[@eljefe62]

@@PhillipBailey Thanks for the quick reply! I followed your advice and it's running fine, but not great. I will check the plug wires tomorrow. It just seems to hesitate once in a while and I heard what seemed like a diesel knock during one of those instances of hesitation. It's only about one time per mile during a 30-mile trip after replacing the module and repairing the wiring. This truck sits a lot as it is my on-farm truck for the last 10 years. Great old truck with just under 101K original miles (and zero rust!).

[@TTM719]

I have a 1988 C1500 and sometimes when I try to start it, the starter motor won’t turn over. Then I turn it off, try again and it starts. It has also been making a clicking or metal like noise while I’ve been driving it and I have no clue as to where it’s coming from. Do you have an idea what it is?

[@PhillipBailey]

It's hard to say whats going on there. You need to connect a test light to the S terminal at the starter so you can see if the starter is getting a signal to crank over. If no then check at the neutral safety switch. If yes you likely need a starter. Check battery cables and connections as well. Try moving the shifter when the problem happens. Try tapping on the starter while trying to crank the engine.

[@TTM719]

That may be the problem. But the weird thing about that noise is sometimes it will continue even if the truck is idling. It sounds like a metal clinking noise, but no check engine light comes on while I driving and I've checked inside the engine compartment and haven't seen anything wrong.

[@PhillipBailey]

@@TTM719 I've had a broken fork inside the starter allow the drive to touch the flywheel teeth and cause a weird chinging noise usually on acceleration going forward. It was on a newer gm truck but basically the same starter. I'll post a link to my video...

[@PhillipBailey]

Check this out...just a shot at what it might be. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnnUpnWHpNujqsk

[@TTM719]

I just watched the video and my truck makes the same kind of noise while driving. Does that mean it needs a new fork for the starter?

[@lovetrump1088]

Thanks for this. I've been trying to get my 93 Silverado 5.7L TBI going for a week+. It just died going down the road and wouldn't start. Since then, I have got it to start up for a just a second or two in testing processes, but then it dies. Mostly it just will not Start but Cranks fine. There is NO Spark, No Coil Spark and No Fuel but I do have a good Pulse to TBI verified with Noid Light. Any hints welcome? Bonus Question 😀: It's a real pain rigging up a Phone to film the Start/Spark Check/Noid Test Process: Does ANYONE KNOW where/if there is a starter relay I can use to bypass ignition switch so I can do test it alone? Or is there another way to safely Bypass Start from under the hood with no relay(if there is not a relay)? Thanks...Confused---😕😕

[@PhillipBailey]

No spark from the coil I'd say check the pink wire at the coil for power with the key on. Does it have an aftermarket tach or wire connected to the white tach wire from the coil? If that shorts out you will have no spark. Connect a test light to the coil white wire and ground. Key on should light steady. Should blink or flicker when cranking. No blinking replace ignition module in distributor. Blinking but no spark replace the coil.

[@PhillipBailey]

This truck does not use a starter relay but if you can get a remote start button on the starter S terminal and positive battery post it will crank and start if the ignition is on. Make sure it's in park or neutral though so you don't kill yourself.

[@orville58]

Nice diag

[@torrischappell7339]

I'm gonna try this to my 93 gmc vandura but I just put new fuel pump n when I turn key but the main coil is firing other ones arnt

[@PhillipBailey]

There is only one coil. If you mean you have spark at the coil wire but not at the plug wires its likely a failed cap and or rotor.

[@FamilyFirst80Bay]

I did it on my 350 changed control module still just cranking

[@PhillipBailey]

There are lots of reasons for a crank no start. First does the Check Engine light come on with the ignition on. If not check fuses that supply tge ECM. Them power and ground at the ECM. Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? Do you have spark at the plugs, if not check at the coil wire. Do the injectors pulse and deliver fuel. Check fuel pressure. Have to figure out what you are missing...spark, fuel or compression.

[@jckama5259]

@@PhillipBailey I have 1990 with the 350 v8 I replace the fuel pump the relay and de ignition module . And when I drive it for 30 minutes Andale turn it off and try to start it again won’t start hope u can help

[@PhillipBailey]

@@jckama5259 what is missing when it won't start? Spark, injector pulse, fuel pressure? Check data parameters at that time. MAP reading, Barometric pressure reading, TPS, coolant temp should all read in range.

[@defleppard6609]

Mine is a 89 with the 5.0 v8 and it cranks for a long time until the oil pressure gauge goes up then it starts up. It runs fine so not sure why it's not getting fuel for so long during cranking.

[@PhillipBailey]

Those trucks have a fuel pump relay that is controlled by the ECM. The relay is supposed to run the fuel pump as a prime event for one second at initial key on and then during crank and while running. There is also a backup circuit to run the fuel pump once there's oil pressure. Sounds like the fuel pump relay has failed. It is behind the plastic cover on the right rear of the firewall under the hood. Listen for the relay to click on the off when you turn the ignition on.

[@tonyedward6909]

'89 Silverado 305 5.0 V8. Great truck!

[@happyson567]

So I have a similar issue but my battery is 100%okay but no lights, crank or no start

[@happyson567]

Any idea what my problem could be

[@PhillipBailey]

So you are saying when you turn on the ignition there are no warning lights coming on in the dash and it won't crank? If that is the case could be an ignition switch problem or Power feeds to the ignition switch.

[@ItsMe-dk9pl]

I got an 89 silverado, i can start it up with starting spray it stays on for a few min then shuts off and wont start again unless i spray it again. When on if put in gear it shuts off. Any suggeations?

[@PhillipBailey]

You have a fuel supply problem. 1 does the check engine light illuminate on key on? Does tge fuel pump prime when key turned on?, 3 do you have injector pulse? Do you have fuel pressure? These systems would produce spark just from the pickup and module without even an ecm in the truck. Because it runs on an alternative fuel source need to check fuel delivery.

[@ItsMe-dk9pl]

I changed out the ignition coil and it running fine now. Thanks

[@PhillipBailey]

@@ItsMe-dk9pl glad you figured it out but that does not make sense. You said it would run on an alternate fuel supply.

[@torrischappell7339]

@@ItsMe-dk9pl that's what it was

[@559Obsalex]

Hi i have a 1988 chevy 5.7 i replaced fuel pump full assembly put gas in tank just cranks no sound from the pump on the gauge shows no fuel any suggestions

[@PhillipBailey]

Are you getting power to the fuel pump? The new pump is grounded to the left top frame rail. Is the ground good? There is also a ground on the right frame rail in the engine compartment below the heater near the exhaust manifold. Check that ground. It may affect the tail lights, is the ECM turning on the fuel pump relay during cranking, does the mil come on with the key?

[@559Obsalex]

@@PhillipBailey im getting power to fuel pump when i tested the injector connectors with a noid light i didnt get no light i changed the distributor and the ecm my fuses are good computer sounds to be working

[@559Obsalex]

@@PhillipBailey i took spark plug #1 out and tried spinning the engine by hand but its hard to turn it over do i take all spark plugs out?

[@PhillipBailey]

@@559Obsalex is the ECM turning on the Check Engine light?. Does the fuel pump run when cranking? Not just key on .

[@559Obsalex]

@@PhillipBailey yes

[@torrischappell7339]

But I don't hear fuel pump I'm just gonna toggle swich it then

[@deigo2629]

So the icm controls the firing of the injectors .... and the sparkplug spark ? .. cause that's what my truck is doing .. New fuel pump and filter .. New Injectors but they are not spraying

[@PhillipBailey]

The ICM sends a reference signal to the ECM which fires the injectors. The ECM also modifies the spark timing once the engine starts. Does it have spark at the plugs? Does the check engine light illuminate with the ignition on? Does the fuel pump run for a second when you first turn on the ignition? Does it then run when cranking? If the CEL does not turn on with the key check power and grounds to the computer. Does it communicate with a scan tool? Answer these and I'll try give you some direction.

[@deigo2629]

@@PhillipBailey I will report back with better info on Sunday.. the truck is 3 hrs away.. thank you for your response

[@deigo2629]

@@PhillipBailey I can tell you this much ... it turns over no start .. I pulled the air cover no fuel so I dropped he tank replaced pump and filter .. im getting fuel all the way up but not out of the injectors .. I should have done more research first but was on the side of the street out of town .. so now I rebuilt the throttle body and replaced injectors going back to install tomorrow

[@PhillipBailey]

@@deigo2629 yes definitely should have done more testing prior to firing the parts cannon. Could be a blown ecm fuse. Check for power at the injectors with a test light key on. They are ground side controlled by the ECM. If there's power at both injectors connect test light to battery positive and the other injector wire and crank. Test light should pulse when cranking. You can buy a noid light for this test as well.

[@deigo2629]

@@PhillipBailey I did those things ... fuse good .. noid light test good .. I just didn't check for spark but was told it starts with starting fluid and runs fine .. I just assumed in a rush and limited tools it was the filter or pump with no fuel coming out of injectors..

[@johnhorn5603]

Similar problem on 95 Chevy 5.7 12 volts missing from ignition control module harness

[@PhillipBailey]

So with the ignition on you have no power to the positive coil terminal? Start by checking fuses.

[@johnhorn5603]

I checked each one I could find haynes repair manual is saying the ignition timing control is coming in there from the pcm but doesn't if the 12 volts is supposed to be coming from there as well

[@PhillipBailey]

@@johnhorn5603 is your truck TBI or Vortec?

[@johnhorn5603]

Tbi

[@PhillipBailey]

@@johnhorn5603 there are 4 wires to the coil, 2 pink and 2 white. One pair goes to the ignition module in the distributor. The other pink wire comes from the ignition and should be powered with the ignition on. If no power check fuses that feed the ignition switch. That system does not need the ECM to initially produce a spark at the coil wire. In other words if it has no spark while cranking its not the ECM to blame. Do the turn signals and backup lights work? If not check the 40amp fuse 6 under hood.

[@mexicanboi2161]

I have a crank but no start I have gas a spark but still just cranks 1988 Chevy k1500

[@PhillipBailey]

If you have injector fuel delivery and spark at all the plugs it could bebout of time. Possibly timing chain jumped. Check compression. Could also be flooded. Check if the plugsvare fuel fouled. Check for contaminated fuel.

[@tonycotta6602]

Phillip that also works with v8 motors also thank you

[@PhillipBailey]

Yes the ignition systems were the same from 1987 til the Vortec which came on the seen in 96 I believe. Same ignition functions on V6 and V8s.

[@richardramirez9937]

I changed the ignition modu, the ignition coil, the distributor cap and rotor and still doesn't fire up??? Injectors r spraying thoe. 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@PhillipBailey]

Check for spark it the coil wire and then plug wires. If you have spark at both and you have injector spray it could be out of time.it could also be flooded.

[@emannnnnnn2299]

1988 Chevy c1500 no crank no start junk yard 5.7 vortex new steering column new ignition switch

[@PhillipBailey]

Are you asking me what's wrong or what to check? What are you missing? Do you have spark at tge plugs, fuel pressure of at leat 55psi at tge test port, injector pulse and fuel delivery? If tge engine was sitting with the fuel lines open the gasoline evaporates and leaves behind the green death which plugs tge injectors. Will it fire on alternate fuel source? All data parameters in range? Lots to check...

[@jesustorres3863]

I have 1989 GMC Sierra v6 it does the same thing

[@PhillipBailey]

not sure if the 89 4.3 is the same system as the V8

[@PhillipBailey]

sorry I forgot this was a V6 as well. Check the pickup coil wires in the distributor. Do you have spar at the coil and plugs?

[@Nanook236]

Why is this a rare truck?

[@PhillipBailey]

Around here due to the road salt they have almost all gone to scrap. Over 30 years old.

[@kingjeremysircornwell7847]

No fuel no spark? Ignition module.

[@kingjeremysircornwell7847]

Worn ignition switch?

[@PhillipBailey]

What are you asking? Does the check engine light come on with ignition on? Do you hear the fuel pump prime for about one second when the key is turned on? Do you have injector pulse? Do you have fuel pressure?Check for spark at the coil and then at the plugs, no spark at plugs but spark at coil indicates a cap or rotor problem. Good luck

[@kingjeremysircornwell7847]

@@PhillipBailey Crime to own liv with dog/animals inside city limits. Get the dog's out! Crime to $hit inside city limits.

[@GarryLofton-fq6kq]

My truck doesn't even make a sound

[@PortDixieandTheJourneyDogs]

I am having same issue with mine! And like someone else is having to help me out and pay for this shit etc...and I think the mechanic they took it to is a joke!? Like I've had and seen good mechanics and this guy don't seem to know JS!? They told him probably fuel pump!? So he says ya bring it here I'll be glad to look at it fix it! Then he tells me well if it is that I CANT DO THAT!! WELL HELL WHY DIDNT HE TELL THEM THAT B4 THEY TOWED IT HERE!? Then he says it's getting fuel so it ain't that! I suggested Distributer plugs wires etc as it hadn't had that done and was yrs past needing them! So they looked at those and yep they were in horrible condition! So they replaced Dis../cap and plugs! But not the old wires which makes 000 sense to me!!!??? AND rhe coil! But I didn't see them look at or replace this!? I mean I could have missed that as they had me trying to start it over and over!? But I just don't think they did!? And when I brought it up this morning dude didn't even know wth I was talking about!!?? Then gives me this whole game and dance about it!!?? Yesterday he said it's getting fuel so pump ain't ur issue!? Now he's saying it ain't getting it and maybe it is!? But is giving me total bs about the I.M.! And acting like he don't even know wtf it is!? Seriously!!!!😮😮😮 I mean how is he a mechanic and don't know wth it is!!?? And I'm a girl and older Disabled lady and I do!!?? Sorry but I have 000 confidence in this dip shit and their bs attitude!!! I think he's just trying to jack the lady paying for this and me on my truck! I mean like I got a camper on my truck and me and my dogs inside r traveling! And THIS GD SHIT NEARLY GOT US ALL FN KILLED!!! AND THIS GUY HAD ME LEAVING TWICE TELLING ME FN BS AND HAD I GOTTEN OUT ON THE FN HWY WE MIGHT HAVE BEEN KILLED NEXT TIME!! THIS GUY IS FN WITH MY LIFE MY DOGS LIVES AND MY TRUCK AND MY HOME HERE!! WEEEE HAVE TO FN LIVE IN IT!! AND THIS SHIT IS A HUGE FN ISSUE!!! AND THIS LADY IS SUPER KIND LADY WHO WORKS HARD FOR HER MONEY AND WHO DONT KNOW ME AND WHO IS HELPING ME OUT OF THE KINDNESS OF HER HEART!!!! AND I DONT WANT HER TO BE FD OVER OR TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF!!! AND I DONT WANT TO KEEP HAVING THIS ISSUE WHICH IS CLEARLY STRANDING ME AND WE R HAVING TO SLEEP ON THE SIDE OF THE FN HWY AND IN HIS PARKING LOT LAST NIGHT!! HE IS CLEARLY IN OVER HIS HEAD AND HE KNOWS THAT AND JUST WANTS RID OF US NOW! BUT THE TRUCK CANT MOVE IF IT WONT FULLY CRANK OR KEEP RUNNING!! AND THE TOW GUY WHO IS FRIENDS WITH HER AND HELPING US HE IS HELPING HER THEY R HELPING ME TOGETHER!! AND HE CANT JUST MOVE ME ALL.OVER TOWN FRE OF CHARGE!? I MEAN THIS ISSUE IS PUTTING ME OUT US OUT HER OUT HIM OUT!! AND I JUST THINK THIS LAZY MECHANIC HERE WITH A SORRY ATTITUDE IS JUST FULL OF CRAP AND DONT KNOW HIS BUS!? SORRY IF I SOUND BAD BUT WHEN IT'S U UR VEHICLE UR HOME UR FAMILY AND SOMEONE ELSES POCKETS...I MEAN I FEEL LIKE THIS GUY IS JUST NOT GOOD!!?? BUT IM ALSO IN THE MIDDLE AND FEEL HORRIBLE FOR FEELING LIKE THIS IS HURTING OTHERS!? I FEEL LIKE I NEED TO KEEP AN EYE ON THIS GUY AND MAKE SURE!? BUT?? Sooo what do others think here about the issue or this mechanics behavior!? I mean I've had good that were honest and this guy just don't have honest written on him!? Or knowledge either!? And our life is on the line my truck my home my dogs and this ladies pocket book!? I mean she is paying rt now and yes I do hope to pay her back!! But still NEITHER OF US SHOULD BE TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF!!??

[@PhillipBailey]

Sorry for your problems but what happened in what order. What is the current problem and what has been done so far...

[@PortDixieandTheJourneyDogs]

@PhillipBailey Thank u!!! We'll after many parts and about 3 days I am finally on the rd again! Turns out he hadn't replaced the distributer!! Just the cap and the plugs...then some other things and finally a fuel filter! And then HE finally replaced the entire distributor and BAM! THAT WAS IT!! He put in a call to a Chevy guy mechanic somewhere!? And that guy told him to do that that they were major issues on my truck or same ones...and that of they were bad they wouldn't let the fuel thru! So the fuel was getting to there but it wouldn't let the fuel get thru esp if the truck got hot! Or once it warmed up! It would just shut it dn! And wouldn't work to let the fuel thru! But them after it would set a little get cold it would let it start that 1 time!? But anyways IT WAS THE DISTRIBUTOR!!! But the parts they did take off still needed it...they were all nasty and full of nasty sludge!! And def would have been an issue at some point!! The DT was like caked in green sludge!! Super bad shape!! FF was full of dirt grime tons of nasty crap to!! Truck runs a TONNN nicer smoother and idles nicely quietly now!! And doesn't drop dn or make noises or cut out or bog dn now! I mean it really sounds nice now and runs and idles super smooth now! So while it was FRUSTRATING AS HELL AND BEYOND TIRING..I MEAN ME AND MY DOGS R JUST WORN THE HELL OUT esp after living on premises for like about 3 days! And being sp couped up! And stressed out! But I KNOWWW THIS HAD TO BE SUPER EXPENSIVE FOR THE 2 ANGELS THAT R DIVIDING THE COST to help some little nobody traveler like me!! And I KNOW GOD WILL BLESS THEM 10 FOLD!!! AND I WILL PRAY FOR THAT EVERY SINGLE DAY!!! I am gonna try get her address so I can at least send some payments to her for them and what they did! I would at least like to make payments to them for a longgg time as I KNOWWW THIS HAS TO BE IN THE 1000S OF DOLLARS!! BUT DEAR GOD AM I BEYOND THANKFUL TO THEM ESP HER AND GOD FOR NOTTT LOSING MY TRUCK MY HOME MY DOGS AND MAYBE EVEN MY LIFE!!! I OWE THEM ALLLL BIG TIME!!! AND THANK U FOR UR TIME AND EFFORT TO CONTACT ME AND TO OFFER ADVICE HELP!!

[@pdsrenos]

1998?

[@PhillipBailey]

No 1988. GM uses this system from 1987 to 1994 on all the TBI systems 4.3, 5.0, 5.7 and 7.4 Litre engines. 1998 was the Vortec with the flat distributor cap. Completely different ignition system.

[@anthonyr3928]

​@@PhillipBailey Hello Mr. Bailey, Im troubleshooting a 87 suburban(no start 5.7 tbi), and found your video and comments very helpful. I should be able to figure things out without asking any already answered questions but I wanted to thank you for your patience responding to others above for obvious reasons. I also used these delco ignition setups for 5.7 vortec carbureted marine engine packages I sold a good deal of in previous years. If you have any comments or thoughts on using these delco systems on carbureted GM sbc marine applications im all ears. Keep up the good work. !!

[@PhillipBailey]

@@anthonyr3928 If you are using the distributor without the EST functionality what are you doing for timing advance? These engines will run with the 4 wire plug on the module unplugged as long as there is fuel delivery ie a carburetor as you mentioned. Problem is you will be stuck with base timing only. Are you using a standalone controller to advance the timing relative to engine speed? Im sure that there is such a thing but have never seen one personally. Alternately you could just advance the timing to the point where it still starts ok but performs better at cruise RPM. Probably around 18 to 20 degrees. Most early marine distributor only incorporated mechanical advance systems as acceleration from a stop and quick throttle changes is not a huge requirement for marine systems imo.

[@PortDixieandTheJourneyDogs]

Oh ya...now he says he's gonna replace the fuel filter and if that don't work then he can't help me!! After totally blowing off the I.M. questions and ideal!? And after acting like he didn't even know wth it even is!!?? Like he seriously don't even know wth it is or even get it!?😮

[@user-uc3zo3bf1s]

I have an question for you. I have an 1989 chevy 2500 350 5spd I had an fire and rebuilt the harness then out of nowhere the clutch has constent hot to it so know the clutch pedal is know key how would I fix this plus otherss is telling me ground and the fuel pump is also on constent hot when batter is hot. Thank you for your time

[@PhillipBailey]

I'm not understanding what you are asking. Constant power to the clutch pedal switch? Fuel pump runs all the time?

[@user-uc3zo3bf1s]

@@PhillipBailey yes sir this is the problem

[@PhillipBailey]

You must have done something wrong. Why didn't you replace the harness with a used one? Recheck your work. Make sure all your grounds are connected. Other than that it's impossible for me to suggest what could be wrong.

[@user-uc3zo3bf1s]

@@PhillipBailey I figured out why the clutch is hot I run the battery hot from the fire wall block to the small post on starter that gives the constant hot to clutch gonna fix this in day or 2 gonna figure out why the block is getting power without being connected to battery fix that then hook battery back to block and should fix issue. It is the big black red stripe wire to starter that is couseing the issue at this point. What is your thoughts on this

[@PhillipBailey]

Ok but I have no idea what you did sorry..