1994-1996 Caprice/9C1/Impala SS Temperature gauge cluster diagnostics and repair (part 3)

Please see part 1 and 2 of this series for more information.
This video demonstrates how the "dampening" fluid works in the temperature gauges on '94-96 Chevy Caprice and '94-95 Chevy Impala SS cars. If the gauges are banging hard, and going out of calibration, the dampening fluid (or lack thereof) is often the culprit. We will review how to inject new fluid and then stress test the results.
Dampening fluid used in this video is 1M centistokes (cSt) from this seller:
www.ebay.com/itm/124876493507
I later worked with the seller on this listing for 1M cSt fluid:
www.ebay.com/itm/124926539893
And may be updating this description if the seller offers higher viscosities than 1M cSt.
Anything greater than 1M may work better. I started with 500K cSt and it did not dampen well enough. 1M is closer to factory but still off target. Take a look at how smooth the fuel gauge works in this video. It still retains the factory dampening fluid. I may do an update where I try higher values.
I don't recommend using greases or other fluids, they won't work and may damage the gauge. Synthetic (silicone) dampening fluid has very special properties and is safe to use on delicate electronics.
The results were successful in keeping the temperature gauge in calibration as long as the dampening fluid is used in conjunction with a resistor in the bulb test circuit for additional insurance.
If you are having trouble with your gauges or anything else with these cars, please join The Impala SS Forum. It's been around for many years. You can find me there along with others who are very knowledgeable. Also keep in mind that it's a community and you will find a mixture of personalities there. So my recommendation (for any forum) is to post as much detail as you can about the car... past repairs and current problems. Use proper english, complete sentences, and proper punctuation... and you may even get a reply directly from me. LOL.
www.impalassforum.com/
Thanks for watching!
Disclaimer: I am not a professional mechanic by trade. If you blow up your car or kill yourself, please do not hold me accountable. If you are not comfortable with DIY car mechanics, please consult an ASE Certified Mechanic.

[@M21L35]

When will you be posting a video of the cluster removal & its disassembly? I still own my personally-ordered '95 9C1, now w/305K+ on the clock. I recently had the secondary fan replaced, & though the mechanic stated nothing was touched re. or affecting my temp. gauge, it nonetheless is now inoperable!

[@storm9c1]

Hi. Thanks for the comment. Glad to hear that an original owner still has a Caprice with 305K on the odometer. Though I'm not an original owner of any, I still daily drive B-Bodies. I suspect we are a rare breed. Anyways.... it will take some time to record and edit the entire cluster removal video. But I am planning to post a shorter one documenting the temperature sensors and wiring to check when your gauge stops working. Maybe that one will be more helpful to you. Gimme a few weeks to gather and edit the footage. It's a hobby, not a full time job. Finally, if you need help sooner, perhaps join the Impala SS Forum. I'll add a link to the description. Myself and/or others can walk you through diagnostics. It may be something as simple as a loose wire going to the sensor. Although it's nowhere near the secondary cooling fan, so I don't think the two are related.

[@JoseOrtiz-oq7oy]

hello, I have a 1996 Chevrolet Impala. The problem I have is that the temperature gouge is not reading correctly, I need your calibration service. I tried it myself by following your instructions but I failed. Is there anything I could have done wrong or missed?

[@storm9c1]

There could be other problems such as wiring or sensor. Plus the factory gauges, as I pointed out, don't hold up. If resetting the needle to C when the car is cold doesn't help then most folks opt to install an aftermarket gauge.

[@JoseOrtiz-oq7oy]

@@storm9c1 my problem begins when I tried to repair the lights on my cluster and I removed the needle on my temperature gauge but unfortunately when I put the needle back in, it wasn't in the correct alignment so it no longer reads correctly. can I get calibration service.

[@storm9c1]

@@JoseOrtiz-oq7oy I'm sorry but I don't offer this as a pay service at this time. I just offer DIY advice on my channel. You may be able to fix it yourself by pulling the needle, then turning the key to run, then reinstall the needle at the C mark. Do this with the engine cold. Car not running for several hours.

[@mjbiles32]

Where did you get the needle end for the 1mil weight fluid? Do you have link for the items used?

[@storm9c1]

Hi. Thanks for the question. Link is in the description. Seller sends it ready to go, tip and all. It's not a perfect solution for these gauges, but with enough force it can be made to inject into the shaft/bushing housing. It needs quite a bit of pressure and needs to be held in such a way to make a good seal. Best idea I can come up with for now. I will make a new video if I come up with any better methods. I have no affiliation with the seller. Take care. Link: www.ebay.com/itm/124926539893

[@user-jk3yy3lx4u]

I did my gauges with the flued , but its not reading correctly , is there a step to recalibrate them or did I miss everything up ?

[@storm9c1]

Hi. I plan to do a calibration video sometime in the coming months. But in the meantime, here's what you can do. Temp gauge: let car sit overnight to cool down. Then turn key on, engine off. Gauge should sit at "C". If not, pull and reset the needle until it points exactly at "C". Oil pressure: engine off, key on, reset needle same as above to "L" mark. Volt gauge: start engine. Check battery voltage. Use a multimeter to ensure battery voltage is 13-14 volts with engine running. Pull and reset needle with engine running so the gauge points exactly half way if 13 volts at battery. If 14 volts, reset it slightly higher. Fuel gauge: this one is hard to do without a spare sending unit or a potentiometer. You can roughly set it by filling up the tank with gasoline to the top, and then reset the needle to above the "F" mark. These cars always read over "F" on a full tank. You may need some trial and error to get it right.

[@user-jk3yy3lx4u]

@@storm9c1 thanks , will try it

[@user-jk3yy3lx4u]

@@storm9c1 I tried it , and i don’t think it worked as my temp gauge is not moving correctly , do I have to repeat the oil again? , or is there a way to fix this ?

[@storm9c1]

Hi again, I am not sure what you mean by "gauge doesn't move correctly." Can you be more specific about what it's doing or not doing? Some troubleshooting options: When you turn the key far enough to crank the engine, does the gauge peg to "H"? This is expected. If not, then perhaps the gauge is faulty and there's not much that can be done other than replacement. Another issue could be the sensor itself or the wire going to it. This sensor is mounted on the passenger side head below the exhaust manifold. If you unplug and ground that wire, the gauge should peg to H.

[@famustowers2297]

How much do you charge to fix?

[@user-jk3yy3lx4u]

how many will be enough for 4 gauges? thanks for the vid

[@storm9c1]

One should contain enough fluid for all 4 gauges. You only need a few drops per gauge forced in by pressure.

[@user-jk3yy3lx4u]

@@storm9c1 thanks

[@christopherwithers1131]

Do you repair these for other people?

[@storm9c1]

@@christopherwithers1131 I do not repair these for others at this time. Maybe someday. But for now, the videos in this series are more documentary and for future reference. Maybe helpful to a DIY. Thanks for watching.

[@christopherwithers1131]

@@storm9c1 Do you have one on repairing the display?

[@storm9c1]

@@christopherwithers1131No but one of my own displays are acting up so if I decide to fix it, I'll try to record it. Note that repairing the display is a multi-step process. There are some quick fixes and some very involved fixes.