1995 Suzuki Sidekick EGR System

[@sarahb6852]

Superb video, great explanation of what's going on in the system and how to test it all. I wish more auto repair vids were like this.

[@nunapitchuk]

Thanks so much for saying so.

[@chriscusick6890]

Frank Cook stands for excellence! I have cancer and the medications I take make one nauseous a good part of the time. Your videos are quick, simple and concise. Therefore I can work on my Suzuki without a great deal of useless procedures I get on other videos. I thank you so much!!

[@SilverHawkGamingYT]

Just got a 1995 suzuki sidekick. It was running and now it aint, I am going to diligently watch all of these videos to figure out whats wrong with it. Thank you.

[@nunapitchuk]

Good luck with it. If I can help you can contact me on my face book page: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

[@sammocat]

Very informative sir. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.

[@nunapitchuk]

You are welcome.

[@evaszonkep]

Thanks for the videos. All of them are really, really useful. Keep up the good work, man. :)

[@TheOnlooker65]

Thanks for this, got to watch it several more times to truly understand but that's me, not you!!

[@nunapitchuk]

You are welcome. I made the video to help myself understand. One of the best ways to really "get" something is to explain it to someone else. When I started this project the only thing I knew about the EGR is what the letters stood for, seriously, that is all I knew. Now I am very confident about my knowledge of the EGR system and looking forward to understanding the ECM with equal confidence.

[@kalelezequiel140]

pro trick : watch movies at kaldrostream. Me and my gf have been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.

[@mylesjamir4232]

@Kalel Ezequiel Yup, I have been using KaldroStream for since december myself =)

[@muriuwangai3617]

You have no idea how you've helped us. Million thanks

[@tylerbigelow8985]

I blew into the bottom and I couldn’t breathe through it so there was no vacuum going through my modulator. Assuming it failed a just blocked off and deleted the egr system. I assumed it failed and didn’t want to buy a new one for $170 Lol thanks for the vid it was very helpful diagnosing my problem

[@nunapitchuk]

You will probably not notice any difference if the egr is plugged and not working. Possibly a small drop in fuel mileage depending on how you drive. I don't really understand what you blew into based on your comment, but if it is as old as mine then there is a good chance that it is clogged up. I recommend removing the intake air surge tank and intake manifold and spending a few hours trying to clean those out some time when you don't need the car for a few days. It is probably nothing critical, but mine had a lot of oily crud in it from the egr system.

[@sergio0711077]

Tks to your videos I was able to fix my sidekick. Saludos desde Puerto Rico.

[@nunapitchuk]

You are welcome Sergio. You should check out my face book page for even more info (suzuki sidekick restoration project). Hope things are going better in Puerto Rico.

[@bobmorgan1762]

Very detailed and informative.

[@troycongdon]

Excellent tutorial, thanks!

[@Asefalexandernoorzai]

Great explanation. Very helpful.

[@alejandroalvarez9833]

Thank you for your videos

[@ruancarlodop]

Do you have any vid of the process of removing it from the car frank ?Thanks for everything

[@nunapitchuk]

Sorry, I've only removed these parts after taking the engine out of the car. The bolts on the main valve would be difficult to get at with it in the car, but doable. All the other components should be easy to remove.

[@public_idfortest2864]

how about ISC (IAC) do you have any clip about check ohm or clean that? Thanks so much!

[@nunapitchuk]

facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/videos/847197368751676 It looks like u-tube deleted my videos more than 7 years old. This one is on my face book page.

[@public_idfortest2864]

@@nunapitchuk thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i show that, so usefull for me!

[@nunapitchuk]

@@public_idfortest2864 You're welcome.

[@axiediary3182]

The vacuum hose connected to the throttle body, does it have vacuum all the time even at idle? My does not have vacuum, even when i rev the engine at idle. Is it normal?

[@nunapitchuk]

Yes, there should be vacuum there. Might try sticking a pipe cleaner with some carb cleaner in it to make sure it's clear. If you connect the tube with the engine running and put your finger over the tube you should feel a little suction at idle. Thinking about it just now, I guess I have never actually done that so maybe I'm wrong, but I would expect to feel a little suction.

[@axiediary3182]

@@nunapitchuk i tested it just now, during idle the vacuum is not very strong, it get stronger when rpm is higher.. 😊

[@nunapitchuk]

@@axiediary3182 That's good, right? It's working now. You said before you had no vacuum.

[@axiediary3182]

Yeah, i clean it with carb cleaner as you suggested. Seems like it pushes the gunk out of the pipe. Thanks for the suggestion earlier 😁

[@nunapitchuk]

@@axiediary3182 Glad to be helpful.

[@brucebanner863]

I have a 95 tracker . What does it mean if it sends an EGR code after driving for a few minutes. And while running at idle I press on the diaphragm and nothing happens, idle stays the same and no stall, also while running I disconnected all the hoses and nothing happens? No change in the RPM no stall, nothing, but an EGR code shows after driving for a few minutes. Disconnecting the battery makes the EGR engine code light goes away but it comes back obviously. Is there a clog somewhere, or the solenoid? I'm confused

[@brucebanner863]

Ps there also doesn't seem to be any suction on any of the tubes I disconnected while the engine was running. After testing the diaphragm and disconnecting the tubes there was no suction anywhere and the engine didn't stall or anything either.. I also took off the EGR and cleaned it thoroughly the diaphragm seems in good condition and the inside is also very clean as well, new gasket when out back on etc. the part itself seems in good working condition. It's just throwing a code and no suction anywhere?

[@brucebanner863]

I just took all the tubes off and cleaned them one by one while running. And they were all clean. Also no suction. I followed all of the small tubes, both paths,( rubber and metal) from the EGR to the top of the engine and they were all clean, no clogs at all, I blew through the one at the top of the engine with the small rubber hose and I could push air in and suck air out of all the small hoses. No vacuum at all at idle. I did not test the larger hose at the bottom of the EGR to the lower part of the engine. Is there supposed to be vacuum at the top hoses, at idle? , and why if they are not clogged is there no vacuum at all?

[@nunapitchuk]

Uhm... Seems like two different things. First the vacuum ... There has to be vacuum or the engine wouldn't be running. If you pull off the vacuum tube to the solenoid valve on the front there won't be vacuum because the valve is closed. If you pull off the short little vacuum tube from the intake surge tank to the solenoid valve the idle speed should increase a little and if you put your finger over the hole to the surge tank then you should feel a little suction. If not then the intake surge tank is probably all gunked up on the inside. If you press the diaphragm open and nothing happens at idle then I suspect the passage through the head to the exhaust is clogged up and/or the large metal tube from the EGR to the intake surge tank is clogged. Unless you don't have that tube in which case all the little EGR ports on the intake manifold are clogged up. My understanding of the check engine light for the EGR is that it is a temperature sensor on the EGR valve with a 2-wire connection. If it isn't connected then you get a light or if the temp reading is high you get a light. I think you can get rid of the light by unplugging the wire putting a resistor across the 2 ends, but I can't remember what size resistor to use. If it was me then I would remove the whole intake plenum (assembly) and start cleaning. It is probably full of gunk and the port to the exhaust is probably plugged with burnt gunk. I'm assuming it has never been cleaned. Go to my face book for more chat: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

[@brucebanner863]

@@nunapitchuk thanks. I took off the plastic cover to access the metal wire for throttle, pressed on it while running and a vacuum then formed that was noticable. And then I took off the metal tube, it was 90 percent clogged. I cleaned it, and still the same problem. I'm pretty sure the inside of the intake manifold in the engine is clogged. The engine light is being caused by the thermoprobe. Probably caused by temperature. It's a California model. I'll have to bypass it with the resistor. I looked at a video of where you cleaned the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure that's what I'll have to do. I've just never taken that off before.

[@brucebanner863]

@@nunapitchuk is there a video of you taking off the intake manifold? I seen the one where you clean it once off. Are there gaskets that need to be replaced during the removal and reinstallation, and while off and cleaning, are there other things you would recommend doing while it is all apart. Like maintenance or replacement of other parts in or around the intake manifold. Are there other parts I should check or clean while I have this apart. I've been driving this geo tracker for over 20 years and I've done a lot while I've owned it to keep it running. I've always relied on helpful videos and posts from people like you to keep it running, so I appreciate your videos they are very informative and easy to understand and follow. So thanks again. Also are there any additives you suggest to keep the engine and the valves protected. I use Lucas. And high mileage synthetic oil now.

[@plantbasedprepper]

Thanks for the video! I have a 1991 Suzuki Sidekick, 3 speed auto, and my engine light keeps showing code 51. I replaced the EGR Valve $400 and it came back on. Also, my tranny delays going into 2nd gear cold until about 3 minutes of driving. Then it shifts fine. The mechanic said it's related to the EGR System because the tranny uses a vacuum pressure sensor to shift properly. I need to figure out how to resolve both but not sure what else to test or replace next. It won't pass smog until I get the check engine light and code 51 fixed. The system looks simple enough but the problem is I don't want to keep throwing $$ at parts that don't solve the problem.

[@nunapitchuk]

I think trying to solve a problem by replacing parts is an awful troubleshooting strategy. Your car has many differences than mine. On the '95 model the egr sensor is just a temperature switch so that when the egr valve gets too hot it gives a code. I have no vacuum connection to my 4 spd transmission. I would try to figure out what sensors on your car could possible cause the code and how they work. Once you know that then you should be able to ID the problem. If the problems turn out to be unrelated then I would suspect worn plates in the 2nd gear cluster (need to get warmed up before catching) assuming they have probably never been replaced. Keep in mind that I've never worked on a '91 model and don't know the details of your situation.

[@ckainrosas2115]

Gracias Frank

[@kooperthompson4341]

Can eney of that make my sidekick surge up and down at idle and still drive just fine

[@nunapitchuk]

No, because the EGR system shuts off when you take your foot off the gas peddle. It has something to do with air intake and/or timing. First easy thing to check is that air filter is clean and dry. The trouble shooting gets much more detailed after that. If you are a do-it-yourself kind of person then message me on my face book page and I will try to help: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

[@stephaniewright9073]

I was wondering if you have any advice on 94 sidekick 16 v overheating? Will idle for long time no problem, but when I put it in gear, it will overheat.

[@nunapitchuk]

Sorry Steph, I did not see this question before. Still having the problem? You can message me on my face book page, suzuki sidekick restoration project.

[@mylesdavis5286]

This was so helpful

[@bruceanderson5409]

Hi Frank , your knowledge of these trucks are very impressive. So having said that I hope you can help me with my problem . 1994 suzuki 1.6 liter, 16 valve , I cant get my idle down to 800 or 850 ,engine is sputtering . What do you think .Thank you for your time .

[@nunapitchuk]

I think your timing is off. Check my video called 1995 Suzuki Sidekick Distributor, Timing, and Initial Startup. You can also chat with me on my face book page: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

[@ekrash08]

Appreciate the info!

[@josephbaya1784]

Sir thnk you so much for your video. Sir me i ask a question to you. For your valve clearance you use what MM you use of suzuki carry sir. Im from phil. Ang i use also suzuki carry model 1999. Hope u answer my question. God bless always

[@nunapitchuk]

On the 1995 Suzuki 1.6L, 16 Valve model, the valve lash clearance is 0.13 to 0.17 mm on cold engine (15 to 25 C). I do not know what engine you have on your '99 Carry. See my video on engine head rebuild for more information about the valves. Hope this helps.

[@danielsleeper]

Thanks mate

[@TurtleToastLove]

Thank you for going into such detail! I have a 98 and your videos have helped me soo much!

[@sanringer]

thanks

[@miguela.martinez1323]

Pueden hacer el video en español

[@nunapitchuk]

Lo siento, pero mi espanol es no muy bueno.

[@victorandresvillanuevaaedo7624]

Necesito si lo puede traducir al español

[@nunapitchuk]

Lo siento senior Victor, pero mi espaniol es no muy bueno.

[@thebanjoman1963]

Frank Sucks.. and Blows.. at the same time..!! Thx for the explanation.

[@nunapitchuk]

I don't understand the comment, but you are welcome.

[@davidvegasanchez2966]

Bueno