1996 - 2000 GM OBS 4WD K Truck Vortec V8 5.0L / 5.7L Oil Filter Adapter Leak Repair (Chevy & GMC)

[@joemalone3099]

I just did it last week and what amazes me is how in the world you managed to film(i n a stunning quality)the whole process in details in SUCH TINY space? mind boggling !!! GREAT CHANNEL

[@DaRealPopTart]

Where did you find the bolts?

[@VikingDudee]

Yeah the only thing I'd change would be to take the drive shaft off, it helps a lot more than it looks, I did this to my 94 suburban after changing the oil pan and let me tell ya, them stupid oil lines yeah....

[@antonep4721]

This guy is very good at explaing this i have adhd im special and i got it im in the middle of trying to fix my truck and found this video love it thanks man

[@BusyFingers]

Best explained cooler line install I’ve seen yet...with the clips, great view, great explanation. Thank you Dr. Shock.

[@brandonkahuna1251]

Did mine a couple years ago. I went ahead and replaced the fittings and the lines while I was there. Make sure to get the good fittings, the Dorman ones leak.

[@daveondre4892]

Best bet is to run the old inverted flares. Yeh, they are a beast to tighten up/assemble, but after my trans cooler lines almost fell out of the transmission with this style in this video(due mostly to age/corrosion but flares would not have behaved that way) and the way the heater core hose to intake quick connect broke off(while changing out the 'plastic intake gaskets' bwahahahaah to Felpro superseals that will not dump gallons of water into the crankcase), no thanks on these sub-quality fittings, not to mention these quick connects are like double the price of the old school better living/longevity flare fittings. But yes, the GM's are still better that old rebuilt dodge in at least commonality lets you reverse engineer most things to the old school longer lasting designs.

[@whoopwhoop1584]

Thank you I was just assembling tools to do this job and seen all my parts are dorman I'm going to the dealer instead

[@daveondre4892]

Dr. S, thanks again for posting this. Very informative / helpful indeed.

[@zerk9709]

Wish there was more videos like this Very educational I appreciate it keeped up the good work look at forward to seeing More of them educational and informative

[@Alex-cq2mc]

Great video! Thanks for putting the torque specs 👍

[@tinojimenez8961]

Great job and thanks for explaining perfectly

[@matthewhowell8246]

where can you find the bolts now?

[@mrja9898]

@@matthewhowell8246 having the same problem. The only place that showed the bolt part number said it’s discontinued.

[@rickgrennan39]

Best explained cooler line install Thank you Dr. Shock. DrShock Reply

[@andyvaldez2830]

Are the cooler lines necessary on a K series 1500? I've seen several videos of truck owners deleting the lines and installing a filter adapter that allows the filter to go on vertically.

[@DrShock]

Personally, I'm not a fan of making any powertrain modifications from the as-built configuration of a vehicle. I like keeping that all vanilla stock, with no use of inferior aftermarket sourced parts. But these oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler, are primarily there for extra cooling capacity when towing or hauling. So if you use the truck more like a car or SUV and do neither, the lines could be redundant.

[@andyvaldez2830]

@@DrShock Understood. Thank you for your feedback.

[@daveondre4892]

@@DrShock , I pray you do not use the plastic 'factory vanilla' intake gaskets though or that wonderful dexcool that turns acidic and causes cooling system havoc such as eating those intake gaskets even faster without frequent flush/changes. BTW, excellent video here, sincerely appreciate the education on this. Helped me immensely so far. My truck was rigged before I purchased (someone basically cut all these lines and pipe plugged everything, so would have preferred they kept to vanilla stock in my case. Thinking of upping this truck to the chocolate fudge deluxe from vanilla by running compression/flares with copper lines that will not corrode as fast, running a used but perfect condition factory GM auxiliary cooler in front of radiator, unfortunately missing the factory vanilla auxiliary cooler mounts, so will be much time spent fabricating such mounts

[@chadziegler7292]

I'm in the process of changing the torque converter seal I figured I would change the rear main while I have the tranny out. I ended up trying to do the the top seal for rear main housing without pulling the oil pan and dropped the old gasket in the pan probably for the better as it looks like it's leaking the trucks 4x4 and I'm wondering if it'll be simpler if i lift the motor instead of rolling the axle I'm doing this on the ground and I'm not sure as most information available is done on a lift. I do have a motor hoist but im dreading pulling the exhaust pipes as the truck has 226k and they're pretty rusty

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Outstanding!

[@danielknoll7152]

Great videos, subscribed and thanks! Well done

[@BlakeInJC]

THANK YOU! I’ve got a leak either off this oil filter adapter or the entire drain pan gasket. The leak is definitely isolated to this area but I cannot tell which is leaking. So, which is more likely the leak: the oil filter adapter seals or the oil pan gasket? 98 Vortec 5.7. Thanks!

[@DrShock]

Adding a dye to the oil would be the best route to determine where it's coming from. With the age of the vehicle, do not be surprised to find out it is _all of the above_ ;-)

[@DaRealPopTart]

Where did you manage to find the parts at?

[@christophermiller3639]

Again Because of you my gmt400 lives....what's the best way to get the oil pan off on a k1500 I'm going to do this while I'm here. Thanks for your time

[@nicosmoorenburg9000]

Thanks. Great job.

[@christophermiller3639]

Dr Shock maybe you answered this question. Which is inlet and outlet on the filter housing. I had about a week of waiting for parts to come in but mine is not labeled. Thanks for your time as always.

[@DrShock]

I’ve never seen one of these GM aluminum oil filter housings not have the “IN” and “OUT” cast on the outside. But if yours is missing suggest you scribe a mark as you remove the existing lines for future reference.

[@christophermiller3639]

@DrShock unfortunately doing the oil pan gasket and front cover...I did not mark it. Outlet on the radiator is the lower...but I'm confused on the daggone oil filter adapter. It's put back on with the new gasket and bolts I would prefer not to remove them

[@DaRealPopTart]

Where did you find the parts @cristophermillee3639?

[@KeeCabbage]

Great video

[@chadziegler7292]

I had to go through the wheel well to get the top clip out who ever did it previously had the open end facing towards the ground very frustrating also I used a magnet to make sure I didn't loose it in my driveway.

[@anitapina4308]

Thank you!

[@DaRealPopTart]

Dr shock I can’t find the bolts anywhere seems to be that they are discontinued and I can’t find them anywhere in stock do you think the Chevy dealer will have them if I go there?

[@DrShock]

Yes, GM has discontinued that part. The dealer would not have them either unless they happened to have old stock from years ago. But the dealer should also be able to search for any USA dealers with the part left on the shelf to give you a lead. You may have to improvise, repairing your originals with a thin silicone film to replicate the sealing effect.

[@TheGorillaBiker]

Would it be possible to just re use the bolts and use some crush washers instead?

[@DrShock]

These GM washers are impregnated with a form of neoprene to effect the correct seal. I would expect any non-OEM part substitutions to just leak prematurely.

[@TheGorillaBiker]

@@DrShock Fair enough, and thank you for the video! I have a 99 Suburban I'm slowly chasing all the gremlins out of!

[@daveondre4892]

@@DrShock , how about some thread sealant? I'm assuming perhaps the oil will not allow a complete cure of the silicone, thus future leakage while thinking this out loud.

[@steveklein2722]

Pull driveshaft. 15 min tops. Much easier to service.

[@benkanobe7500]

A pre-spray with silicone spray could be helpful in some situations.

[@sergiopadilla8397]

You a master

[@jnng7463]

great work Dr Shock, would you happen to know the GM part number for the adapter?

[@DrShock]

It's discontinued for several years now, but there is a part number link in the video description. They show up as NOS from time to time.

[@jnng7463]

is this ebay link the same thing but with different part number; looks like it would fit@@DrShock

[@DrShock]

The link in the description is the part number for the OBS trucks this video covers. It includes some earlier supersession numbers as well. Any others would not be for this particular engine and model year range.

[@WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot96]

Do you have to drain all the oil out before replacing the seal?

[@DrShock]

It’s a lot less mess if you do.

[@user-uq6vh3ps7m]

Tried to find the washers for the bolts they are discontinued everywhere where did u get them?

[@DrShock]

The bolt and _captured_ sealing washer came as an integrated piece, not separate. It does appear GM has recently discontinued this part, which unfortunately is going to be happening more and more across all of the old body style (OBS) GMT400 parts due to obsolescence. This part might show up at the search link I provided in the video description as NOS (new old stock) so worth saving as a search, but afaik there is no aftermarket replacement for it.

[@user-uq6vh3ps7m]

Alrighty thanks

[@thebiscutarmy1231]

When removing the lines, could i just unscrew them instead of messing with the clips?

[@rswindello]

Did you ever get an answer for this?

[@DrShock]

If you both are referring to the fittings screwed into the oil filter housing itself, that wouldn't be the service manual procedure for this job. The plastic retaining ring will have to come off to expose the clip, or the line will bind up with the fitting preventing it from unscrewing. The lines themselves can be bound up to the inside of the fitting as well. Lastly you will be fighting clearance problems as well attempting to remove the fitting while still connected to the line. I would suggest it's a more difficult approach than just removing the retaining clips and unplugging the lines first. But, as long as the binding and clearance problems are addressed first, it should be possible. If you do go this route, the fittings themselves can become another source of leaks at the housing threads so will need a thread sealant or replacement.

[@_tattoomancraig]

What oil filter is that

[@DrShock]

This being a K truck, for the model years this video covers it would be the ACDelco PF52.

[@BlazerGaisser]

My 98 Chevy Tahoe k1500 has a leak around this sucker and I can not for the life of me find a new rubber gasket that goes on top do you know where I can find one?

[@DrShock]

There are search links in the video description. I know the gasket is still showing available there. But the self sealing bolts have recently been discontinued by GM.

[@benkanobe7500]

Doc, do you know the part number for the 1996 K2500 7.4L gas engine?

[@DrShock]

The 7.4L uses a very different oil filter adapter design than what I'm showing here. It is more similar to the 6.5L diesel one than the small block V8s. I believe it just has an o-ring seal, no gasket kit, GM 12555554 - ebay.us/tylJSh

[@benkanobe7500]

@@DrShock Thanks Doc!l I knew mine was substantially different but could not find the GM part#. You seem to be a Wizard at getting the correct GM Part# and sources. Thanks, Again! I ordered it off ebay with the number you provided.

[@oldbiker9739]

I deleted my oil cooler lines 10 years ago on my 1991 GMC1500 after two sets of replacing the cooler lines , because I don't tow any thing .

[@jamessebastian9822]

Done it not fun especially when your blind

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Outstanding!