1996 - 2000 GM OBS 4WD K Truck Vortec V8 5.0L / 5.7L Oil Filter Adapter Leak Repair (Chevy & GMC)

In this video we tackle an engine oil leak at the oil filter adapter housing on GM K truck (4WD) models (e.g., K1500, K2500, K3500) with the Vortec V8 engine (either 5.0L or 5.7L). Whether from Cadillac, Chevrolet, or GMC.
The vehicle illustrated is a 1998 Chevrolet Cheyenne K2500 with the 5.7L vortec engine, but the procedure, parts, and technique shown is applicable to any 1996 thru 2000 old body style (OBS) GM truck GMT400 type such as the Chevrolet Silverado, GMC Sierra, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Cheyenne, Chevrolet Tahoe, GMC Suburban, Cadillac Escalade, or GMC Yukon. The 1995 and earlier K trucks are very similar, but do not share the same retaining ring clip design or cooler lines that were introduced in 1996.
Also applicable to some Holden branded GM K trucks in Australia of this same time period.
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
GM 12553513 oil filter adapter bolt and sealing washer kit: ebay.us/ZxWNkJ
GM 15724727 oil cooler line metal retaining ring clips: ebay.us/mP44TC and on amzn.to/3u0CHdD
GM 88893990 (supersedes GM 12551589) vortec v8 oil filter adapter gasket kit: ebay.us/7FMEkL and on amzn.to/3IeMDoG
If the leak is due to a cracked adapter housing, GM 12562833 (supersedes GM 12558734) vortec v8 oil filter adapter: ebay.us/DTMIEG
ACDelco PF52E (GM 19210286) oil filter: ebay.us/pH997r and on Amazon: amzn.to/3JffCtR
And if I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Chapters:
0:00 - Problem overview
1:09 - Disconnecting oil cooler line retainers
5:59 - Removing oil filter and draining residual oil
7:15 - Removing the oil filter adapter retaining bolts
8:58 - Disconnecting the oil cooler lines
9:30 - Removing the oil filter adapter
10:48 - Reviewing the GM service manual
13:51 - Reassembly overview & part numbers
17:40 - Reinstalling the oil filter adapter
21:16 - Reconnecting the oil cooler lines
#drshock #obstruck #obstrucks
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this KZbin channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle.

[@BusyFingers]

Best explained cooler line install I’ve seen yet...with the clips, great view, great explanation. Thank you Dr. Shock.

[@brandonkahuna1251]

Did mine a couple years ago. I went ahead and replaced the fittings and the lines while I was there. Make sure to get the good fittings, the Dorman ones leak.

[@daveondre4892]

Best bet is to run the old inverted flares. Yeh, they are a beast to tighten up/assemble, but after my trans cooler lines almost fell out of the transmission with this style in this video(due mostly to age/corrosion but flares would not have behaved that way) and the way the heater core hose to intake quick connect broke off(while changing out the 'plastic intake gaskets' bwahahahaah to Felpro superseals that will not dump gallons of water into the crankcase), no thanks on these sub-quality fittings, not to mention these quick connects are like double the price of the old school better living/longevity flare fittings. But yes, the GM's are still better that old rebuilt dodge in at least commonality lets you reverse engineer most things to the old school longer lasting designs.

[@whoopwhoop1584]

Thank you I was just assembling tools to do this job and seen all my parts are dorman I'm going to the dealer instead

[@daveondre4892]

Dr. S, thanks again for posting this. Very informative / helpful indeed.

[@Alex-cq2mc]

Great video! Thanks for putting the torque specs 👍

[@zerk9709]

Wish there was more videos like this Very educational I appreciate it keeped up the good work look at forward to seeing More of them educational and informative

[@anitapina4308]

Thank you!

[@danielknoll7152]

Great videos, subscribed and thanks! Well done

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Outstanding!

[@rickgrennan39]

Best explained cooler line install Thank you Dr. Shock. DrShock Reply

[@nicosmoorenburg9000]

Thanks. Great job.

[@KeeCabbage]

Great video

[@benkanobe7500]

A pre-spray with silicone spray could be helpful in some situations.

[@sergiopadilla8397]

You a master

[@andyvaldez2830]

Are the cooler lines necessary on a K series 1500? I've seen several videos of truck owners deleting the lines and installing a filter adapter that allows the filter to go on vertically.

[@DrShock]

Personally, I'm not a fan of making any powertrain modifications from the as-built configuration of a vehicle. I like keeping that all vanilla stock, with no use of inferior aftermarket sourced parts. But these oil cooler lines, and the oil cooler, are primarily there for extra cooling capacity when towing or hauling. So if you use the truck more like a car or SUV and do neither, the lines could be redundant.

[@andyvaldez2830]

@@DrShock Understood. Thank you for your feedback.

[@daveondre4892]

@@DrShock , I pray you do not use the plastic 'factory vanilla' intake gaskets though or that wonderful dexcool that turns acidic and causes cooling system havoc such as eating those intake gaskets even faster without frequent flush/changes. BTW, excellent video here, sincerely appreciate the education on this. Helped me immensely so far. My truck was rigged before I purchased (someone basically cut all these lines and pipe plugged everything, so would have preferred they kept to vanilla stock in my case. Thinking of upping this truck to the chocolate fudge deluxe from vanilla by running compression/flares with copper lines that will not corrode as fast, running a used but perfect condition factory GM auxiliary cooler in front of radiator, unfortunately missing the factory vanilla auxiliary cooler mounts, so will be much time spent fabricating such mounts

[@benkanobe7500]

Doc, do you know the part number for the 1996 K2500 7.4L gas engine?

[@DrShock]

The 7.4L uses a very different oil filter adapter design than what I'm showing here. It is more similar to the 6.5L diesel one than the small block V8s. I believe it just has an o-ring seal, no gasket kit, GM 12555554 - ebay.us/tylJSh

[@benkanobe7500]

@@DrShock Thanks Doc!l I knew mine was substantially different but could not find the GM part#. You seem to be a Wizard at getting the correct GM Part# and sources. Thanks, Again! I ordered it off ebay with the number you provided.

[@TheGorillaBiker]

Would it be possible to just re use the bolts and use some crush washers instead?

[@DrShock]

These GM washers are impregnated with a form of neoprene to effect the correct seal. I would expect any non-OEM part substitutions to just leak prematurely.

[@TheGorillaBiker]

@@DrShock Fair enough, and thank you for the video! I have a 99 Suburban I'm slowly chasing all the gremlins out of!

[@daveondre4892]

@@DrShock , how about some thread sealant? I'm assuming perhaps the oil will not allow a complete cure of the silicone, thus future leakage while thinking this out loud.

[@jnng7463]

great work Dr Shock, would you happen to know the GM part number for the adapter?

[@DrShock]

It's discontinued for several years now, but there is a part number link in the video description. They show up as NOS from time to time.

[@jnng7463]

is this ebay link the same thing but with different part number; looks like it would fit@@DrShock

[@DrShock]

The link in the description is the part number for the OBS trucks this video covers. It includes some earlier supersession numbers as well. Any others would not be for this particular engine and model year range.

[@WhiskeyTangoFoxtrot96]

Do you have to drain all the oil out before replacing the seal?

[@DrShock]

It’s a lot less mess if you do.

[@BlazerGaisser]

My 98 Chevy Tahoe k1500 has a leak around this sucker and I can not for the life of me find a new rubber gasket that goes on top do you know where I can find one?

[@DrShock]

There are search links in the video description. I know the gasket is still showing available there. But the self sealing bolts have recently been discontinued by GM.

[@user-uq6vh3ps7m]

Tried to find the washers for the bolts they are discontinued everywhere where did u get them?

[@DrShock]

The bolt and _captured_ sealing washer came as an integrated piece, not separate. It does appear GM has recently discontinued this part, which unfortunately is going to be happening more and more across all of the old body style (OBS) GMT400 parts due to obsolescence. This part might show up at the search link I provided in the video description as NOS (new old stock) so worth saving as a search, but afaik there is no aftermarket replacement for it.

[@user-uq6vh3ps7m]

Alrighty thanks

[@_tattoomancraig]

What oil filter is that

[@DrShock]

This being a K truck, for the model years this video covers it would be the ACDelco PF52.

[@jamessebastian9822]

Done it not fun especially when your blind

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Outstanding!

[@thebiscutarmy1231]

When removing the lines, could i just unscrew them instead of messing with the clips?

[@rswindello]

Did you ever get an answer for this?

[@DrShock]

If you both are referring to the fittings screwed into the oil filter housing itself, that wouldn't be the service manual procedure for this job. The plastic retaining ring will have to come off to expose the clip, or the line will bind up with the fitting preventing it from unscrewing. The lines themselves can be bound up to the inside of the fitting as well. Lastly you will be fighting clearance problems as well attempting to remove the fitting while still connected to the line. I would suggest it's a more difficult approach than just removing the retaining clips and unplugging the lines first. But, as long as the binding and clearance problems are addressed first, it should be possible. If you do go this route, the fittings themselves can become another source of leaks at the housing threads so will need a thread sealant or replacement.