1997-2010 Ford F-150 Rear Brake Job: Pads and Rotor Replacement

Come along as we walk you through the process to replace the Rear Pads and Rotors on a 2003 F-150.
These are the Parts and Tools needed to complete the job:
Rear Pads (check fitment guide)-
amzn.to/2m43EcI
Rear Rotors- (check fitment guide)-
amzn.to/2m4cR4W
Brake Dielectric Grease-
amzn.to/2m424HN
Nickel Anti-Seize-
amzn.to/2mOVBjX
Brake Cleaner-
amzn.to/2mkwHLA
C- Clamp-
amzn.to/2mOYgdB
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Catch up with us on-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company KZbin Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Parts and Tools needed to complete the job: Rear Pads (check fitment guide)- amzn.to/2m43EcI Rear Rotors- (check fitment guide)- amzn.to/2m4cR4W Brake Dielectric Grease- amzn.to/2m424HN Nickel Anti-Seize- amzn.to/2mOVBjX Brake Cleaner- amzn.to/2mkwHLA C- Clamp- amzn.to/2mOYgdB

[@smokefast90606]

FordTechMakuloco it also causes the caliper to bite on the ear when it's on wrong and jams the brake on the outside thank you I had them wrong and it was jammed up

[@derekhuber3392]

You failed to mention guides and guide boots in your list.

[@gabrielshirk]

As you clean the caliper I find myself blowing on my phone trying to get the dirt an dust off the caliper. 🤦🏽‍♂️🤣

[@HughG.Rection101]

@@derekhuber3392 He used the same guides.

[@richard1835]

I am a mechanic and have a small shop and also perform Mobile repairs and diagnostics and I do go to KZbin to watch these professionals perform all different kinds of repairs and diagnostic work. When working on Ford Vehicles I also go to this channel because FordTechMakuloco is the go to channel for me for all Ford repairs and diagnostic work. Thank you for this great video and the many more videos I have watched on your channel. Why do I need to watch a video on rear brake pad and rotor replacement on a F150 Ford Truck? It is because there is always something new to learn from these professionals even at doing basic repairs.

[@bobevol]

Man, I really appreciate you and your videos. I have 2 daughters who both drive F150s! You have helped me immensely with so many jobs with the transmission lead frame replacement being the biggest repair I’ve attempted (and was successful). That was a great video and was a job I would have never imagined doing without your help. Thanks Brother!

[@wwebtime]

Well done. Precise, proper, patient and to the point and easy for most to understand. Your type is rare these days. Thank you for posting.

[@A.C.71]

Automatic thumbs up. This dude has saved me so much money over time. Thanks man.

[@RobertKohut]

Great video but without the park brake components it's not really a good representation on what people would encounter when doing the rear brakes. I love your videos and you certainly make great ones but I think this one is kind of funky. Sure it provides for basic brake replacement techniques but I'm sure you know that the drum park brake is the "headache" part of the job and I think your viewers would benefit from a demo that shows the park brake.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Robert Kohut Maybe in the future, I can only film what comes in the shop and this is the customers decision. The drum in hat brakes can go either way some fall off some never need to be touched.

[@aurelienyonrac]

This video is good enough for me. And so i am content.

[@aurelienyonrac]

@@FordTechMakuloco A

[@user-pw4ly5sk6g]

ASI ES COMPAÑERO SON MUY IMPORTANTES PARA CUALQUIER VEHICULO SALUDOS

[@davidspires7242]

I just replaced the rear rotors and pads on my 2010 F-150; this model has the integral parking brakes inside the hub of the rotors. The OEM rotors had two threaded holes into which you thread matching bolts, bang on the rotor a bit, then just alternately tighten the bolts until the rotor pops loose. Very intelligent design. Sadly, the Wagner aftermarket rotors I used didn't have these two "extra" holes; hopefully the liberal coating of anti-seize I applied will make these rotors more easily removeable down the road.

[@starwarsbronzo]

Thank you for your videos. They are invaluable to me and I appreciate your step by step tutorials. Thank you also for giving us insight into the anomalies of the F150, i.e., "chunking off the plastic piston..."

[@robertgregory6012]

Thanks again for an excellent instructional video! I really appreciate the links for required parts. You are my first stop for F-150 repairs.

[@rickroye391]

Dude...you rock. Thx for all the Ford DIY professional videos. Very helpful to many to save some bucks and feel comfortable the job was done right.

[@mikeabbott9748]

Just the video I needed to watch today. Thank You FordTechMakuloco. Your videos have saved me money a few different times now.

[@TomWizda]

Great video - thanks!! Your description of the parking brake shoes falling off / disintegrating is exactly what happened to mine. Haven't gotten around to correcting that yet but it's on the list. Glad to know I don't have a freakish Mountaineer. LOL

[@marscruz]

When you press in (retract) the caliper pistons with the clamp it's possible the brake reservoir could overflow and spill brake fluid in the engine compartment. That can make a nasty mess. Check the level before starting then check the level in the brake fluid reservoir after you press in one of the pistons... you can guess it's going to come up that same distance when you do the second one. Some brake fluid can peel off paint. Be careful and don't spill it. Might be a good time to suck out all the old fluid, put in new fluid and bleed the rest of the old fluid out of the system.

[@cathykrynak8735]

thanks so much! your saving me a ton of money .great videos and your very kind for sharing your extensive knowledge with all of us , thank you ! JIM from OHIO

[@hud351]

Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2010 Explorer XLT with the 4.0L. Doing the brakes and parking brakes next weekend. Your videos have been invaluable as I prep for that. Going to save me easy $1K in having a shop do it. Thank you again.

[@RobertKohut]

Just a note. I'm 56 years old and have been a millwright for 27 years (my own auto mechanic forever) and forcing parts into place with the palm of your hands will take it's toll over time. Just a note to help you save your hands, I've done that for years and now I know not to, you're welcome...LOL

[@wishbone54]

Nice video, professionally done. Thank you.

[@mikedl361]

You've helped me put my front brakes, great video by the way. So had to search for the rear brake video.

[@eddie0175b]

Thank you for the video, you help me so much on maintain my 2010 F-150

[@russwentz3957]

Thank you for your time sharing your experience and technique.

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Yes, thank you

[@slimmm723]

Excellent I prefer to not compress piston in all the way at the beginning. I do it enough to remove. Because I like to be able to inspect the rubber for dirt, cracks, or tears. I also subscibed because this person gives his heart and soul, blood and sweat experience. Its not always pointed out but his experience comes out. TY

[@RALPHD57]

CRYSTAL CLEAR AND TO THE POINT, THANK YOU!!

[@timpetrie4635]

Thanks you are a BIG help well done and cant wait to see your NEWshop that you are going to builkd

[@wvtofl]

Thanks for the video, saved me time and money.

[@GeraltOfRivia99]

always love watching ur videos another epic video by you !

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Great video. I do the same thing for all my Ford brakes and really enjoy the process, but one thing I learned is to also put some antisieze on the hub so the wheel doesn't stick to the rust. I pride myself with doing all my own brakes on all my Ford trucks. But once I was forced to hire someone else when I was out of state traveling, to do a rear brake job on my F 250. He put the shoes on backwards, then he found the emergency brake cable was too long because the shoes were installed backwards so he just tucked the cable up there someplace unattached, and put the wheel back on. I didn't notice this for years until I went to replace the shoes again. And this is why I only do my own mechanical work. Because once I brought my 1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme to a dealer for an oil change, and some lughead put in one quart too much. So it yourself; do it right!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Wow what kind of hack gas station did you roll into that was bad! I find the anti seize I put on the centering hub is enough to prevent the wheel from sticking but regular tire rotations every 5k miles is the best.

[@baxrok2.]

Nice example of a professional brake job. Thanks!

[@tonywiggins8073]

Man, I liked the video because I love all your vids. You have definitely pulled my arse out of many binds and show me fresh new looks at different ways of doing things. My most fav is the drill trick with the tie rods. I was amazed at that and have actually uses that trick with stab links. BUT, I wish you would have shown a complete (with Parking Brake) video with this. I've always had questions or wanted to get tricks of the trade on adjusting the parking brake, esp getting the E-brake foot engaging firm instead of going all the way to the floor and doesn't seem like it grips well... Keep it up brother. Awesome vids...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Tony Wiggins Maybe in the future the parking brake is not always a failure so it is still a great how to video with good tips specific to this setup. Remember I can on fix what comes into the shop and the parking brakes was the customers call.

[@leroywickham1432]

Tony Wiggins i

[@mauricemcdaniel5790]

All his video's are so freaking helpful!!

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Indeed

[@freecheese4143]

Thank you TechMakuloco ! I always check your vids 1st !

[@VinzOneS]

This was may previous concern... :) I Like how did the walkthrough...been ur Fan ever since we got our First Gen expy.

[@dw734]

Excellent video, thank you.

[@JaronPope]

awesome as always! Thank you so much.

[@KM-kl8xu]

Great video.Thanks again!

[@daver8298]

Another great video. Thanks. Super informative!!

[@whistle3man]

Well explained. Thanks for posting

[@john1josjohn1jos]

awesome video thanks for the tips

[@bearwinky]

Thanks for the videos very helpful

[@jokersjunction4926]

you make awesome vids!!

[@DjStalin100]

Nice video. I put anti seize on the wheel studs and check them at every 4000 miles when I do oil change. Been doing it for past 28 years. 🤔

[@PK-zo8lx]

Love your videos. Just a quick question. Would you apply brake lubricant on the new metal sliders for the pads to easily slide on? I noticed you didn't apply any. Thanks.

[@ragtie6177]

Excellent video

[@rays7437]

I see brand new shocks on this truck. I wonder what all was done on the truck

[@DisneyDan]

Wow... one little part of this saved me from learning new cuss words.. :-D .. and that is that piston with rubber cover that you have to pull back, to get the caliper in. I've done brake jobs before on my own vehicles, but on my 2000 Lincoln Nav I spent an hour trying to move the shoes in differently and the caliper just would NOT go in. I tried doing shoes on the rotor, then pop in the caliper.... so many things. So with greasy hands on my keyboard... yours of the 3rd video I'd seen... showed me the problem. Right there. Those stupid metal 'tubes' for he caliper bolts had to be pushed out the way. I went back and BOOM!! DONE. ughhhhh!!! Thank you my man. Perfect. :-)

[@exmotorsports]

Hey Brian, Good Job on the video..Great step by step procedure However just to clear for those that don't know, not all F150 models have a wheel lug spec of 150 ft pound.. If you have the 12mm studs, it would be 100 ft pound. the 14mm studs are 150 ft pound Unless you work for some local (no name here) tire store.. them idiots think everything is 250 + Keep up the great vids Brian..plus love to see the new shop when its done Cheers

[@jin6000]

Thanks so much for this video!

[@raymondmendez8092]

great video

[@GlynRobinson]

good video!!! thanks!!

[@sangnitedatarecovery3203]

Awesome video 👍thank you

[@chipchip3119]

Very well done!

[@ronvalley1973]

man you are good dude. very good. a most excellent video out of the 10 i watched. best one!!!!!

[@Toolaholic7]

A great tip on the axle seals if they have to be replaced,don't buy the cheap seals.National and Timken are two brands to buy for axle seals.Check the slides too,I have seen brake pads worn down due to froze up slides

[@1bottlefed]

The later models have a vibration damper on one of the caliper bolts. This damper blocks access to the end of the bolt so if an open end wrench spreads you will need to remove the damper to allow access to the caliper bolt with a boxed end wrench.

[@Alex-zx8wf]

excellent explaining... thank you so much. I have a 2002 ford xl , I need to fix the break.

[@LJC5865]

Notice the 'New slide pin boot didn't center itself when pushed because their too thin too soft like the ones I bought.. original boots are bigger thicker and springy allowing the slide pins to center themself after braking. I've been noticing a brake hanging on when leaving a stop light and found one rear OEM boot is cut/dirty hanging up and has caused uneven brake pad wear and caught how my new boots are flimsy and stay pushed out..Buy OEM on this item but it's discontinued so i went to salvage yard today and picked up 8 for $3.. still much better than 4 new china ones I paid $21 and returning. Thanks good video I learned alot and appreciate it as I'm a diy on everything and can't wait to finally replace the rear brakes tomorrow. I bought my 03 f150 5 months ago. Maybe new ones work eventually idk but I need to see them working well immediately.

[@michaelslivensky8741]

Could you please do a video of an early to mid 2000's f150 parking brake service, I'd like to see the proper way to do it. There are a few other videos out there, but I trust your Ford repair videos the most. Thanks

[@fredcsensits4476]

Good job

[@TheJuan72]

Thx man great video, I'll save a few bucks in my next brake job. I have a 2006 F150 should similar. I also have the Ford shop manual which helps too ( not the HANES crap ).

[@brotherheed00]

Any difference for the expedition? Using clamp pre caliper pre removal just blew my mind👍🏻

[@davehayden29]

Thanks for doing these videos. Very helpful. Now a Ford owner. But I changed my rear brakes, new hardware, cleaned everything. However at low speeds I get a metal vibration sound of the caliper engagement to the rotor, once hits rotor stops. Like a metal creaking sound. Should I or could I add some silicon to the slide guide hardware. To help pads slide to and from rotor on application and disengagement.?

[@MJ-iy4fb]

Nice video Brian. Thanks again for posting. I am curious what you think of discount ebay rotors?

[@tacticalofficer6103]

I know this is an old video Thank you !!!!! for the information

[@chadder19k]

hey love your videos they are a big help but is their any way you could show the proper way to completely drain out the transmission fluid, like what's in the torque converter. I know how to do the transmission but not sure on how to get all 13 or so quarts out so I can put in all new fluid in my transmission for my 04 f150

[@alb12345672]

90s Explorers are identical. I bought a premium rotor in pep boys and the parking brake hat area was painted black and had rust. Ended up returning it. I use my parking brake and they inspect here.

[@Kotsoteka55]

Shouldn’t you have opened the bleeder screw when depressing the piston to prevent back flow in the abs? Abs module part alone is around $950 bucks.

[@optics4062]

Back flow? He never opened the system.

[@patrickpeterman4890]

have you a video on replacing e-brake shoes on a 2002-2003 ford f53 chassis-6.8 ltr. stripped motorhome base; rear,s are dually,s; I have found you have a way of explaining in an understandable manner; great video,s thanks PATRICK.P

[@musicsavesxlives]

I also use a high temp ceramic grease that BMW use white color your thoughts! For guides and on back of piston says more compatible with rubber parts

[@MrStampy7]

thanks the the reply and the pads feet with two points go on the top of the caliper slide and the single point feet on the bottom slide?

[@Hamchuck112]

Thanks for the video. I have a 2010 4.6L FX2 that I'm going to do the brakes on soon. Do I need to open the bleeder on the back of the caliper before compressing the piston? Someone else mentioned its necessary to avoid damage to the ABS module. What's your opinion? I've never messed with brake fluid in past brake jobs but this is my first pickup. I'd rather not deal with refilling and bleeding if I don't have to.

[@JCHD18CVOLim]

What is that pry tool you use with split end for prying, removing hoses?

[@ReclusiveMountainMan]

15:50 have a visitor again in the video, Brian! LOL Also 18:48

[@FordTechMakuloco]

They are my buddies!

[@uptone12111]

Impressive.Thanks.I think I may try to do it myself.Save a buck

[@ikigai47]

20:20 excellent thanks so much for the video. I don't have those type of wrenches so I was left wishing you listed the lb ft of torque but I can look that up hopefully. Edit: 22 ft lbs rear, 47 ft lbs front (for 2004-2008 f150)

[@texanbalaban6777]

Thanks B0$$! Just what I was searching comments for

[@1975Harley]

I'm changing the front brakes and rotors on my 2006 F150. The guide pins are different with one having a rubber bushing. My question is, does that pin go in the top or bottom of the bracket?

[@williamvangorden44]

Okay I have the same flashing light on my instrument cluster on a 07 it comes on periodically why?

[@colincfour-zp9ul]

You stated that the parking brake pad mount can just fall off due to rust, could you do a video on how to replace the shield and pads?

[@johnstrodtman1801]

Got a question. I have a 2011 f150 ecoboost, it's a supercrew 6.5 ft bed, with 20 in wheels. what would be the smallest diameter wheel, I could fit without having to change a bunch of stuff.

[@stevesykes9696]

The tool that you were using to push the boots through the caliper, I always called it a cat's claw. Is that the correct name for it. I need to get one for my toolbox. Thanks

[@miguelgomez63]

whats the rear disc brake minimum thickness specifications for a 2002 f150 rear wheel drive

[@vbarone]

Any tips for removing a stuck rear tire on an 01 F150 4x4?? Saltwater seems to have cold welded my rim to the hub and no torch, sledge, or pry bar has been able to get it to budge. Couldn't find a specific video on your channel but any tips would be appreciated!

[@rodneybrand8521]

You are with out a doubt ..... The master...CHEERS 🍺🍺🍺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸buy American !!!

[@dlsmithy]

If your rotor is stuck Harbor freight has a 8 inch three jaw puller that works great for 17.99. I just did this to my 2007 Ford and the rotor was stuck. I used this puller and it popped right off no problem.

[@familyrcvideosds3680]

what are the difference fordparts calls for the nbr1012 for my 08 ?

[@ozzstars_cars]

My '97 F150 4.6L 2wd has good old rear brake shoes

[@nomanjones4803]

Just what I was going to say, I think they went to disc in 1999

[@yqwgjsg]

Ozzstar Yep I was trying to figure if this was an option in 97 since my F150 XLT has anti lock rear drum brakes.

[@leugbol]

My '99 F150 4.6L 4WD has front disc - rear drum brakes.

[@johncassidy2982]

Once again, Great video Brian!!! What is that little tool you use to push the boots through the caliper called? Gonna have to get one. Thanks again for the Excellent video...

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

I think they were needle nose pliers

[@garysanchez1205]

Do you have a video that replaces the wheel studs on the rear

[@simonhernandez9634]

whats the torque spec for the front ones

[@kylepowell9829]

With drilled and slotted rotors does it matter what side they go on

[@user-ut6ji8my2h]

I wouldn't even have thought about reusing those calipers, but I guess thats the DIY in me. With no labor charge, I go for new parts when they look like this. Those calipers are toast.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The calipers were just fine until the day he sold it; they just look bad because he lives on a long gravel road. That's were experience comes in.

[@user-ut6ji8my2h]

@@FordTechMakuloco I'm 77, and my experience would have told me to put new one on that truck, and not to mess with the glide pins. I just finished replacing the rear seals on my 04 F150. Went like a breeze because of your videos, just like the timing job I did at 153k. Thank you for what you do, you are the best Ford Tech I've ever known, and I've known a few.

[@crystall9759]

I have an electrical problem with my 03 & F-150. I have come to the conclusion that the turn signal switch is the reason I have no turn signal no flashers and now no break lights. Do you have a video for replacing this, or could you make one. I have the part. however I have never done this and I'm concerned about screwing it up since I rely on her for work and school. thanks for the videos you make have really helped me with school and projects

[@680mudman]

shouldn't you crack the bleeder first before you compress piston? i heard it can damage abs system?

[@nbaganggang1242]

dose this work for a Ford king ranch 2013

[@cody2313]

If that's an ABS system you should open bleeder screw when compression piston so you don't get reverse flow and then FU your abs module.

[@Shmartin06]

What caliper boots did you use??

[@j.mardis4395]

You could have the rotors turned, if they aren't damaged too bad or too thin, correct? I have an 08 F150

[@alwayslearning297]

Changed the rear pads and rotors on 2003 f150 following your guidance. All slide pins smooth. Test drove for 2 miles. No problem. Drove to work. 20 miles. Both overheated and smoking. Any idea why?

[@Hubjeep]

6:38 Usually I put a little anti-seize on wheel studs, have had too many hard to remove lug nuts in the past. Generally speaking I never bolt or nut something dry (either never seize or loc-tite for the internal stuff).

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Hubjeep A light oil on the threads is acceptable but not anti seize. The only vehicle I ever recall needing lube on the threads was my focus they were always so dry for some reason.

[@conflagratus]

@@FordTechMakuloco A bolt that is torqued to spec will not back off because of anti-seize. In fact anti-seize is generally made for threaded parts. The bolt holds the nut on because when torqued properly is actually stretched (picture a rubber band?), and that stretched tension springs loads the nut to overcome the engineered pitch of the threads. What anti-seize or some kind of super lube is more likely to do is give an abnormally low torque reading; causing an overstretch of the bolt and subsequent breakage.

[@fordinlinestraight]

Very thorough, as always! Ill tell you! I don't trust mechanic's!, (but) I would be fine with you working on my truck.

[@jeremyjohnson6040]

hey, can you tell me the thread size and pitch for the bleeder screws on a 2010 F150? I want to get speed bleeders but the fitment chart on their website says I need a 3/8-24 for the front and a M10-1.0 for the rear.. can that be right? thanks! your videos are priceless

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Jeremy Johnson yes they both sound about right

[@jeremyjohnson6040]

FordTechMakuloco I guess I shouldn't be surprised but definitely weird to use standard sizes on one set and metric on the other but whatever. Do you have any feelings positive or negative on using the speed bleeders?

[@coyotekelly7143]

I normally blue loctite the caliper bolts on everyone I do. is this not necessary?

[@tylerreedy3867]

Hey I 08 f150 and the stud on the hub broke off and I was wondering if I can replace the hub on the back