1998-2002 Honda Accord CV Axle Shaft Replacement DIY

In this video I replace the driver's side CV shaft on a 2.3 L I4 engine. This car has a manual transmission. Make sure to buy the right CV shaft for the transmission in your car. The auto and manual CV shafts are different. I jacked the front end up on jack stands.
I bought the part from Autopartsway Canada for about $140.
I bough the ball joint separator tool from Amazon: www.amazon.ca/g...

[@alexreed5017]

Appreciate the video. Don't worry about others talking bad on you in the comments. 99% of the time they're just people who didn't even look up the repair guides and just immediately hopped on KZbin expecting you to hold their hand throughout the entire process

[@rbagel55]

This was helpful, even though you kinda rushed through it without going into detail much. But at least you specified a 36mm socket which other videos of this topic didn't mention

[@ChiefManjaro]

5:20 Axle nut torque spec is 181 ft lbs for my '99 Accord, according to the service manual (pg 16-21).

[@artsmart07]

What do I do if the brand new axle pops back out of the tranny leaking al the fluid out? Will it pop back in or will it all have to be taken apart again to put it on the splines in a different position?

[@AstraI1]

thanks for the video and sharing the information

[@VoluptuousHorse]

I noticed you said the spnidle nut is a 36mm. My service manual says that it is 24mm on page 16-21, so I decided to simply measure the thing myself. I came up with 36mm just like you said. It looks like it _clearly_ says the spindle nut is 24mm, but my measurements confirm this video's measurements. This makes me question whether the Manual is actually accurate, or whether I'm somehow misinterpreting or misreading the manual (which is most likely). I hope someone somewhere can give me some guidance because my I am very confused. My CV axles are pretty shot to hell, the boots being ripped almost completely off and steering sharply while accelerating or decelerating too quickly makes the awful rapid crunching sound. There are multiple other things wrong with my suspension, so any help is appreciated.

[@mrdragancelan]

Voluptuous Horse Maybe the service manual you are looking at is calling out the thread of the nut instead of the size socket you need. Maybe it's an M24x1 thread. what service manual are you using?

[@VoluptuousHorse]

I managed to find a free one online. I think you're right about the thread and that I was indeed just misinterpreting the manual. It says 24 x 1.5 mm. I'm guessing that 24 is the measurement of the thread diameter, and the x 1.5 is a multiplier whose combination with the thread diameter is equal to the socket size? Thank you so much for the help!

[@mrdragancelan]

Voluptuous Horse The 24 denotes the major diameter of the external thread in millimeters (shaft portion) and the 1.5 is the pitch between the threads in millimeters.

[@VoluptuousHorse]

Dragan Celan Ah, that makes more sense. Thank you.

[@mrdragancelan]

Voluptuous Horse You're welcome. I'm glad I could help.

[@mlk.ali_X]

Great video. Very helpful. Although, I wouldn't say it's the "ghetto" way. "Different" would've been quite enough. The mechanics who strike seems to be in places where salt hasn't corroded the undercarriage. Their components are still lubricated with oil-gunk. Your components appear frail & dry. Same job, "different" circumstance.

[@Riknos]

Stupid question but do you have to drain the entire gearbox for this? Or does just some of it ooze out?

[@mrdragancelan]

+Rik Powell No. Draining the fluid in the gearbox is not necessary for this job. The axle seal which is pressed into the gearbox housing will prevent any of the fluid from escaping when the axle shaft is removed (assuming that the seal is still intact). There are no stupid questions if you're learning. I hope this helps.

[@Riknos]

+Dragan Celan Ah makes sense, thanks. So in my case where I'm going to be replacing the seal and not the driveshaft itself, I will have to worry about replacing the gearbox fluid. Thanks.

[@mrdragancelan]

Rik Powell The one time I did an axle seal replacement, I had a very minimal amount of transmission fluid ooze out so it may not be entirely necessary. It's really at your discretion.

[@karlatygard443]

They won't knock out because it hits behind the dust cover.... I have to get it fixed

[@Chromedome-ss6mg]

when I first started watching I was excited on how fast you where going and editing the tape. but then I got to where you pull the axle out and you skipped the part of pulling it out and putting in the new one. So the whole video doesn't have much detail on putting the axle in and out. Dam it, I really wanted to know how to clamp the boot to the transmission. This is why I watched. Its probably the most difficult part. fair video tho....

[@mrdragancelan]

Clamp the boot to the transmission? I'm not sure what you are talking about. I replaced the entire CV shaft in this video. There is a pry tool (looks like a two-pronged fork) that you can use to pry the CV shaft away from the transmission housing. I just pulled it using both hands.

[@AGENTtimex]

I use a hammer to separate tie rods because that contraption of yours squishes the boot and can damage it.

[@mrdragancelan]

I used to do the same until I inevitably damaged something swinging that hammer. Nowadays, if the joint is really stuck, I use the separator to preload the joint and then give a couple of taps with a hammer. That usually does the trick.

[@karlatygard443]

How do I replace the passenger side lug nuts

[@tune_apply_pressuretuneolo1442]

Bad video cuz, future reference show us everything you do

[@mountainmodelcastingdobrow3430]

You don't have to loosen the yoke bolts. And loosen the lower ball joint instead of top ball joint. axcel will come out better if take the bottom ball joints. Allows more movement of knuckle to move out of the way to get the axcel out. Next time look up torque specs before you do an informative video.

[@mrdragancelan]

Mountain Model Casting Dobrowolski I tried to loosen the bottom ball joint but it was way too tight so I didn't want to risk damaging it so I resorted to loosening the top one instead. Luckily it worked out. I've also started providing the torque spec values in my latest videos because others, just like yourself, have requested them. Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback.

[@AstraI1]

lol bro appreciate the info but if you're going to give some constructive criticism you might be less demanding in your delivery

[@blackrockbrewing5141]

You didn't show anything of consequence.

[@rcast22651]

HEY, SHOW THE WORK,, YOUR'ER REMOVING A LOT OF THINGS, BUT EDITING A LOT OF YOUR WORK. CAN YOU SHOW ALONG WITH EXPLAINING WHAT YOUR TRYING TO SHOW.

[@slickjames1]

U skipped the whole point of the video.

[@lzeta28pep90]

You're talking about being ghetto for hitting the SPINDLE, not control arm, with a hammer yet you reuse cotter pins. Hmm....

[@mrdragancelan]

You're right. I misspoke. And I shouldn't be reusing cotter pins. Regardless, reusing a cotter pin is better than not using one at all. I just came unprepared for the task at hand.

[@lzeta28pep90]

@@mrdragancelan just giving u a hard time bro. Thanks for the video

[@Whatcould858]

Pointless video. Skipped so much. Good effort though

[@mrdragancelan]

Were you looking for something in particular that I omitted?

[@cruizahkimo2]

Jeez.. Skip much? Bad vid. 👎